Saggy Rear Passenger Doors
01-07-2017, 10:12 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 55
Saggy Rear Passenger Doors
Does anyone have a solution to fixing saggy rear passenger doors? I was thinking about going to my local salvage yard to pick up some new hinges, but first I would like some insight from the Maxima community. I will have pictures attached below.
01-07-2017, 11:19 AM
#2
It could be either the full hinge that needs to be replaced, or else just the pin may need to be replaced. or else a bushing that the pin goes through in the hinge. Or, if you;re real lucky, you may be able to just adjust the hinge.
Good luck.
Good luck.
01-07-2017, 12:46 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Hey JD. Did you get the new SRSCU installed and reset ok?
Did you try adjusting the doors hinges at the B-pillar?
I've been down the road of trying to get passenger side doors aligned after replacing them and some body work to pull out the B-Pillar and C-Pillar following an accident.
If there are B or C pillar alignment problems appear after an accident, it usually indicates there is some amount of frame damage that can turn into some big money fast.
I have a 99 I30 that I'm retiring since it has past its intended 5-year use cycle. I managed to get a body shop to pull out the damage to the B and C pillars and align the frame as best as possible for a few hundred dollars. The only way to really correct the damage in my case would be for a body shop to cut out the side of the car that was damaged and weld in a replacement from another car.
That would have cost between $1,300 and $1,500 just to get the doors and all to properly align. Then it would take another $500 to $700 for an economy paint job just to make it look right again. Although I replaced the rear axle, I knew it would never track correctly again from the frame damage.
All for a car that I bought in 2011 for $250 that now has over 275,000 miles.
So I found it was easier to buy another 4th gen with a good body, engine, and transmission. Then move any of the good parts from that car to the replacement. I plan to keep the engine and transmission as a spare. The old motor always ran exceptionally well and the transmission is solid, so why not keep them. I may refresh the engine with a semi-overhaul and just keep it in the event I can snag another nice 4th gen with a blown engine or bad transmission.
Here are some pictures after the accident. I had to replace the passenger side doors and rear axle from another I30, then get the B and C pillars pulled out so the doors would shut. However, the B pillar still had issues after the body work. I stopped putting any more money into the car at that point. I had to replace the alternator and battery last spring before I found the replacement Maxima. But that was it.
Purchased July 2011 with a bad ECU. I picked up another ECU from a salvage yard Maxima GLE for $35, paid $250 to get NATS reset with the keys. Installed new valve cover gaskets, cleaned up the existing EGR, new eBay crankshaft pulley, seals, CV axles, and installed a set of Tokico blues. It's sad to see it go. The previous owner told me that I rescued it from the salvage yard when I bought it.
July 2011
Did you try adjusting the doors hinges at the B-pillar?
I've been down the road of trying to get passenger side doors aligned after replacing them and some body work to pull out the B-Pillar and C-Pillar following an accident.
If there are B or C pillar alignment problems appear after an accident, it usually indicates there is some amount of frame damage that can turn into some big money fast.
I have a 99 I30 that I'm retiring since it has past its intended 5-year use cycle. I managed to get a body shop to pull out the damage to the B and C pillars and align the frame as best as possible for a few hundred dollars. The only way to really correct the damage in my case would be for a body shop to cut out the side of the car that was damaged and weld in a replacement from another car.
That would have cost between $1,300 and $1,500 just to get the doors and all to properly align. Then it would take another $500 to $700 for an economy paint job just to make it look right again. Although I replaced the rear axle, I knew it would never track correctly again from the frame damage.
All for a car that I bought in 2011 for $250 that now has over 275,000 miles.
So I found it was easier to buy another 4th gen with a good body, engine, and transmission. Then move any of the good parts from that car to the replacement. I plan to keep the engine and transmission as a spare. The old motor always ran exceptionally well and the transmission is solid, so why not keep them. I may refresh the engine with a semi-overhaul and just keep it in the event I can snag another nice 4th gen with a blown engine or bad transmission.
Here are some pictures after the accident. I had to replace the passenger side doors and rear axle from another I30, then get the B and C pillars pulled out so the doors would shut. However, the B pillar still had issues after the body work. I stopped putting any more money into the car at that point. I had to replace the alternator and battery last spring before I found the replacement Maxima. But that was it.
Purchased July 2011 with a bad ECU. I picked up another ECU from a salvage yard Maxima GLE for $35, paid $250 to get NATS reset with the keys. Installed new valve cover gaskets, cleaned up the existing EGR, new eBay crankshaft pulley, seals, CV axles, and installed a set of Tokico blues. It's sad to see it go. The previous owner told me that I rescued it from the salvage yard when I bought it.
July 2011
Last edited by CS_AR; 01-07-2017 at 12:55 PM.
01-07-2017, 05:40 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 55
Yeah, I got the SRSCU situated. Went to the salvage yard and found one that didn't have a hard code on it and simply plugged it into my vehicle. Also, I did have to use the door reset method to get it to work.
And yeah I think my rear passenger doors might need some hinge work because my pillars aren't damage and neither is my unibody.
And yeah I think my rear passenger doors might need some hinge work because my pillars aren't damage and neither is my unibody.
Hey JD. Did you get the new SRSCU installed and reset ok?
Did you try adjusting the doors hinges at the B-pillar?
I've been down the road of trying to get passenger side doors aligned after replacing them and some body work to pull out the B-Pillar and C-Pillar following an accident.
If there are B or C pillar alignment problems appear after an accident, it usually indicates there is some amount of frame damage that can turn into some big money fast.
I have a 99 I30 that I'm retiring since it has past its intended 5-year use cycle. I managed to get a body shop to pull out the damage to the B and C pillars and align the frame as best as possible for a few hundred dollars. The only way to really correct the damage in my case would be for a body shop to cut out the side of the car that was damaged and weld in a replacement from another car.
That would have cost between $1,300 and $1,500 just to get the doors and all to properly align. Then it would take another $500 to $700 for an economy paint job just to make it look right again. Although I replaced the rear axle, I knew it would never track correctly again from the frame damage.
All for a car that I bought in 2011 for $250 that now has over 275,000 miles.
So I found it was easier to buy another 4th gen with a good body, engine, and transmission. Then move any of the good parts from that car to the replacement. I plan to keep the engine and transmission as a spare. The old motor always ran exceptionally well and the transmission is solid, so why not keep them. I may refresh the engine with a semi-overhaul and just keep it in the event I can snag another nice 4th gen with a blown engine or bad transmission.
Here are some pictures after the accident. I had to replace the passenger side doors and rear axle from another I30, then get the B and C pillars pulled out so the doors would shut. However, the B pillar still had issues after the body work. I stopped putting any more money into the car at that point. I had to replace the alternator and battery last spring before I found the replacement Maxima. But that was it.
Purchased July 2011 with a bad ECU. I picked up another ECU from a salvage yard Maxima GLE for $35, paid $250 to get NATS reset with the keys. Installed new valve cover gaskets, cleaned up the existing EGR, new eBay crankshaft pulley, seals, CV axles, and installed a set of Tokico blues. It's sad to see it go. The previous owner told me that I rescued it from the salvage yard when I bought it.
July 2011
Did you try adjusting the doors hinges at the B-pillar?
I've been down the road of trying to get passenger side doors aligned after replacing them and some body work to pull out the B-Pillar and C-Pillar following an accident.
If there are B or C pillar alignment problems appear after an accident, it usually indicates there is some amount of frame damage that can turn into some big money fast.
I have a 99 I30 that I'm retiring since it has past its intended 5-year use cycle. I managed to get a body shop to pull out the damage to the B and C pillars and align the frame as best as possible for a few hundred dollars. The only way to really correct the damage in my case would be for a body shop to cut out the side of the car that was damaged and weld in a replacement from another car.
That would have cost between $1,300 and $1,500 just to get the doors and all to properly align. Then it would take another $500 to $700 for an economy paint job just to make it look right again. Although I replaced the rear axle, I knew it would never track correctly again from the frame damage.
All for a car that I bought in 2011 for $250 that now has over 275,000 miles.
So I found it was easier to buy another 4th gen with a good body, engine, and transmission. Then move any of the good parts from that car to the replacement. I plan to keep the engine and transmission as a spare. The old motor always ran exceptionally well and the transmission is solid, so why not keep them. I may refresh the engine with a semi-overhaul and just keep it in the event I can snag another nice 4th gen with a blown engine or bad transmission.
Here are some pictures after the accident. I had to replace the passenger side doors and rear axle from another I30, then get the B and C pillars pulled out so the doors would shut. However, the B pillar still had issues after the body work. I stopped putting any more money into the car at that point. I had to replace the alternator and battery last spring before I found the replacement Maxima. But that was it.
Purchased July 2011 with a bad ECU. I picked up another ECU from a salvage yard Maxima GLE for $35, paid $250 to get NATS reset with the keys. Installed new valve cover gaskets, cleaned up the existing EGR, new eBay crankshaft pulley, seals, CV axles, and installed a set of Tokico blues. It's sad to see it go. The previous owner told me that I rescued it from the salvage yard when I bought it.
July 2011
01-19-2017, 06:57 PM
#5
I saw a trick on here where washers were used to space the door hinge so you didn't have to slam the front door from worn out hinges. You can probably find it if you look for door sag. That or junkyard hinges are probably least expensive.
01-19-2017, 08:59 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,566
Years ago, my ex wife had a Chevy Monza, and it started with the sag thing. Ultimately to my surprise, it was little plastic grommets that went into one side of each hinge that buffered between the hinge pins and hinge holes. When they crumbled, they gave enough slop for the door to sag and closing and rattle was miserable. Cost a couple dollars at the dealer.
Maybe double check that isn't the case here and the plastic grommets aren't crumbling. Hope this helps!
Maybe double check that isn't the case here and the plastic grommets aren't crumbling. Hope this helps!