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Old 04-26-2005, 06:52 AM   #1
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PO505 - Idle air control valve replacement

Yesterday I changed my idle air control valve. Quite the job. It is time consuming, but pretty easy. My reason for changing it was because my car wouldn't idle without stallling, and the car's computer put out the code PO505, which calls for an idle air control valve problem. So, I went to Nissan (the only supplier of the part) and bought a new one for $404 Canadian (taxes included).

To start things off, it is located under the throttlebody and very difficult to get to. So, I removed the whole thing. Plus, you get the chance to clean it out well.

Step#1 - remove air box and all pipng leading to throttlebody. You will have to undo one electric connection. You can simply turn to air flow meter upwards and let it sit on the intake manifold without completely removing it.

Step#2 - remove the two coolant lines leading the the idle air control valve, and the two brackets that support other lines that are in the way.

Step#3 - remove the 4 bolts from the throttlebody, and the two electrical connections, and pull it off.

Step #4 - Undo the two throttle cables by pulling them up and sliding them out of the track (should be easily done).

Step #5 - Remove throttlebody.

Step #6 - Replace the idle air control valve (5 screws must be removed), and clean up the throttle body. I had a really hard time getting the screws out for the idle air control valve, so make sure you lube them up before trying to get them out because the screws strip easily.

Step #7 - Reverse order, and replace everything.

Note: No additional parts are needed. No gaskets have to be replaced. The new valve comes with new screws and a new O-ring type gasket.


Hope this helps some one!
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:23 AM   #2
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If you are just trying to clean the IAC Valve, is it necessary to take everything else off as well? Thanks!
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:30 PM   #3
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Idle valve causing short to computer

I read the other day on Edmunds that the IAC valve can short the computer out then having to replace them both at a costly repair, Any one experience this?
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A33FORME View Post
I read the other day on Edmunds that the IAC valve can short the computer out then having to replace them both at a costly repair, Any one experience this?
There are a number of threads here on the .org that describe this happening but so can a shorted out electric motor mount, it can also short out the ecu
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:02 PM   #5
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yes this is happening to me right now car is the shop because of a bad IAC... trust me dont wait change that IAC aspa. cleaning the iac is a no no just get a new one fron the stealer $350only..
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:43 PM   #6
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Just for information, How many miles on your car, wondering if mine has been done yet and how much will a new computer cost?
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:34 AM   #7
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yep I did that mistake, cleaned mine. then about 500miles away from home I had to pick up the in-lwas from O'Hare airport, just as I was getting off the highway on the exit ramp my SES came on and the car started acting funny rpms up and down like crazy... I knew that this was the symptom so I pulled into the Target's parking lot and **** it off... pulled the code and surprise surprise .... I called every single Nissan Dealership in Chicago only one had it stock, the next morning I went to pick it up and back to Targets parking lot, it literally took me 15 min to swap the part and be back on the road... Ohh what a pleasant $300+ surprise was that... especially after replacing all ignition coils and plugs the week before with parts form DaveB
What a great way to start my summer and close to a grand for some parts :bustru n:

murphy's law if it ain't broke don't mess with it.....
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A33FORME View Post
Just for information, How many miles on your car, wondering if mine has been done yet and how much will a new computer cost?
My friend, almost every 2000-2001 3.0 Maximas will experience this problem. It's a "Must do" fix and before anything else happens just do the bypass coolant to the TB before your IACV kill your ECU.

You can get the piece with a dealership (Expensive as gold) or buy it from one of the many suppliers in the Internet (Courtesy parts, Parts Geek, and many more).

I bought one from Ebay for $120 bucks and it will be arrive today or tomorrow because the damn thing just screwed my car and the idle it's very VERY random.
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:28 PM   #9

 
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Stir-fried ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by A33FORME View Post
I read the other day on Edmunds that the IAC valve can short the computer out then having to replace them both at a costly repair, Any one experience this?
I had my car towed to the dealer because the ECU wouldnt recognize the car key as 'legitimate,' They said the ECU was dead. I researched the forum and concluded that the best solution was replace IACV, TPS and air temp sensor.
I sent my ECU out to be rebuilt (via EbaY) and expect they will replace the fried chips.
Wish I'd replaced the IAC as a preventive measure. I only have 200K miles!!
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:59 PM   #10
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Coolant Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulfromOlney View Post
I had my car towed to the dealer because the ECU wouldnt recognize the car key as 'legitimate,' They said the ECU was dead. I researched the forum and concluded that the best solution was replace IACV, TPS and air temp sensor.
I sent my ECU out to be rebuilt (via EbaY) and expect they will replace the fried chips.
Wish I'd replaced the IAC as a preventive measure. I only have 200K miles!!
1. Verify IACV has continuity roughly 22ohms on each of the 6 pins
2. Disconnect EC motor mounts
3. Use procedure on page EC-111 (consult II) or EC-116 if you have a probe to program TSP
4. Rekey ECM and Keys (if replacing same part number)
5. Perform Idle relearn
6. Complete IACV/TB coolant bypass
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:59 PM   #11
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I've read a lot of discussions on this...

I have a 2001 i30 with 81,000 miles on it. Should I replace the IACV as preventative maintenance, or is it too soon?
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:12 PM   #12
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Car dies if I let go of gas

My 2001 maxima started stalling if I don't hold the throttle. It does not do it every time, usually after warming up. No check engine light. Could it be the IACV without setting off the check engine?
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimafed View Post
My 2001 maxima started stalling if I don't hold the throttle. It does not do it every time, usually after warming up. No check engine light. Could it be the IACV without setting off the check engine?
it could be, my cel triggered for p0505 when i tried to gas it hard and keep idle. i reset the light and it never came back the next two weeks or so while i tried to diagnose and battle the problem.

i believe it could be other things too.
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanker84 View Post
My friend, almost every 2000-2001 3.0 Maximas will experience this problem. It's a "Must do" fix and before anything else happens just do the bypass coolant to the TB before your IACV kill your ECU.

You can get the piece with a dealership (Expensive as gold) or buy it from one of the many suppliers in the Internet (Courtesy parts, Parts Geek, and many more).

I bought one from Ebay for $120 bucks and it will be arrive today or tomorrow because the damn thing just screwed my car and the idle it's very VERY random.
Bringing this back, now happening to my 2000 SE at 149K. What do you mean by "bypass coolant to the TB"? Is it the coolant leaking into it that possibly will fry the ECU? Is there a way to check the ECU at this time? Some replaced the IAC without ECU issues, some had to replace both.

Thanks, I'm about to do the work ASAP.
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Old 11-30-2014, 12:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montego Murph View Post
I've read a lot of discussions on this...
I have a 2001 i30 with 81,000 miles on it. Should I replace the IACV as preventative maintenance, or is it too soon?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornholio View Post
it could be, my cel triggered for p0505 when i tried to gas it hard and keep idle. i reset the light and it never came back the next two weeks or so while i tried to diagnose and battle the problem.
i believe it could be other things too.
Guys, there are many threads that discuss this subject, but let me recap. There are two kinds of nasty problems that are inherent to our cars:
  1. IACV Failure. The stepper motor wiring in the IACV is damaged by the coolant circulating through the IACV; its wiring goes short, in turn damaging the transistor drivers in the ECU. Usually, the ECU throws code P0505 (but not always, or not quickly enough). The cost of having this problem repaired at the dealer is high - typical $2000-2500 and up.
  2. Electronic Engine Mount Failure. There are two electronic engine mounts (cars with Auto Xmission only) that control the stiffness of the mount. One mount is up front by the radiator, and the other one back by the firewall. Either mount can fail (go short), and again, in turn this damages the ECU.

You can avoid the above problems in the following manner:
  1. Avoiding IACV Failure. Many of us have implemented "coolant bypass" for the IACV. This prevents the coolant from circulating through the IACV and thus damaging its wiring (which damages the ECU in turn). You can do this procedure in about two hours and there are several threads describing how to do it (search for "coolant bypass"). The other, more expensive solution is to replace the IACV with a new OEM unit. It seems that most IACV failures occur at 100k-120k miles, so the replacement should be done accordingly. Basically, the expected lifetime of the IACV seals/wiring is about 100k miles, but it varies from car to car.
  2. Avoiding "Engine Mount frying the ECU". The simplest solution is to disconnect your electronic engine mounts. Again, many threads describe how to do it, and at least one of them has pictures showing the location of EM connectors (they are brown, under and a bit in-front-of the air intake/TB). Should your mount fail and damage your ECU, the repair (by a dealer) is very expensive - just as above.

I have implemented both "IACV Coolant Bypass" and "Electronic Mount Disconnect", so feel free to ask questions. However, do the suggested searches first and read up on what's already available and known.

Last edited by maxiiiboy; 11-30-2014 at 04:29 PM..
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Old 11-30-2014, 02:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy View Post
...Usually, the ECU throws code P0505 (but not always, or not quickly enough)....
About this part, once I get the P505, does this mean the ECU has shorted already, or still possible just the IAC is bad and ECU still saveable?

I'm about to dive in, got the Hitachi IAC ready to install, but hoping this is all I need to do. The idle relearn with new ECU, etc etc could be avoided I hope.

Thanks again for the responses, and sorry don't have much time to do all the searches. Saw a 6 part video already on the fixes, that was a lot of work.
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Old 11-30-2014, 03:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aongch View Post
About this part, once I get the P505, does this mean the ECU has shorted already, or still possible just the IAC is bad and ECU still saveable?

I'm about to dive in, got the Hitachi IAC ready to install, but hoping this is all I need to do. The idle relearn with new ECU, etc etc could be avoided I hope.

Thanks again for the responses, and sorry don't have much time to do all the searches. Saw a 6 part video already on the fixes, that was a lot of work.
it doesn't necessarily mean the ecu is bad. i recommend pulling it out and doing a visual examination, pretty simple to do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy View Post
Guys, there are many threads that discuss this subject, but let me recap.
not sure why you quoted me maxiidude, my issue was sorted months ago (primarily from searching on my own). maybe meant for someone else or i guess it makes me cool or something. good summary tho
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Old 11-30-2014, 03:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aongch View Post
About this part, once I get the P505, does this mean the ECU has shorted already, or still possible just the IAC is bad and ECU still saveable?
I think the only way to tell is to take the ECU out and have a look at the board. Also, I remember reading a story on this forum where one of the members replaced the IACV before fixing the ECU. And guess what - the new IACV was somehow damaged by the bad ECU. I don't fully understand how & why this happened (although I have a theory), but I strongly suggest to do things in the following order:
  1. Verify the ECU is good. Remove the ECU board and check for burns/smell/etc. - it's usually pretty obvious. If bad, fix it by replacing the burnt Mosfet transistors on the ECU board. Alternately, get a good and inexpensive ECU (Courtesy Nissan sells some refurbished ones for around $500-600) but you'll have to have your keys reprogrammed, etc; that's a hassle and a big drawback of this second solution.
  2. Once you are sure that your ECU is good, you can replace your IACV.
  3. To sum it up, during this repair process, you must avoid the situation where one of the (IACV, ECU) parts is bad, as either one could damage the other.

Last edited by maxiiiboy; 11-30-2014 at 04:07 PM..
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy View Post
I think the only way to tell is to take the ECU out and have a look at the board. Also, I remember reading a story on this forum where one of the members replaced the IACV before fixing the ECU. And guess what - the new IACV was somehow damaged by the bad ECU. I don't fully understand how & why this happened (although I have a theory), but I strongly suggest to do things in the following order:
  1. Verify the ECU is good. Remove the ECU board and check for burns/smell/etc. - it's usually pretty obvious. If bad, fix it by replacing the burnt Mosfet transistors on the ECU board. Alternately, get a good and inexpensive ECU (Courtesy Nissan sells some refurbished ones for around $500-600) but you'll have to have your keys reprogrammed, etc; that's a hassle and a big drawback of this second solution.
  2. Once you are sure that your ECU is good, you can replace your IACV.
  3. To sum it up, during this repair process, you must avoid the situation where one of the (IACV, ECU) parts is bad, as either one could damage the other.
This is a good tip, thx. I'll check the ECU first. Such a pain to remove the 4 phillips screws holding the ECU box, will report back condition of the ECU.

If bad, is this a reputable place? I'd rather fix my current ECU than having to buy new and do the complete reprogramming.

http://circuitboardmedics.com/maxima-ecm-repair/
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Last edited by aongch; 12-16-2014 at 10:57 PM..
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:29 PM   #20
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Well, pulled the ECM and ECU board looks clean, no burn marks anywhere. Next steps? Should I install the new OEM IAC valve and hope the ECU won't short circuit? Thanks, that ECM sure was a pain to remove!









Backside (dark blue swirl looks like dye)
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aongch View Post
Well, pulled the ECM and ECU board looks clean, no burn marks anywhere. Next steps? Should I install the new OEM IAC valve and hope the ECU won't short circuit? Thanks, that ECM sure was a pain to remove!
You have several options: a) You can just install a new IACV - it should last a while; b) You can install new IACV and implement Coolant Bypass, this should be more secure as there would be no coolant eating on your IACV wiring; c) Install new IACV and add fuses to protect the ECU; this would give you the best security (see the discussion on this thread New ecu, fried in seconds.... ).
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Old Yesterday, 08:00 AM   #22
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Yup, following that 'fried ecu' thread, lots of good info. I'm certainly doing option (b) for now, doing the bypass! Will report back. Thanks.

Still love the way this 5th gen drives, easy shifting manual, with minor susp upgrades like stiffer springs, 5-way Illuminas, Stillen rear bar, rails corners!

BTW, my ECM was held on not by 8mm screws but Phillips heads, what at b***** and I'm the orig owner so it has never been serviced before.
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