View Poll Results: Do you have a coolant Bypass?
Have Bypass - Cold Climate
14
29.17%
Have Bypass - Warm Climate
10
20.83%
No Bypass because of Cold Climate
4
8.33%
No Bypass just because
20
41.67%
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
Do YOU have a coolant bypass?
05-31-2011, 12:26 PM
#1
Do YOU have a coolant bypass?
I was looking around at coolant bypasses and started wondering who on here has one.
From what I understand, it's basically adding on small connection between the input and output for the coolant at the throttle body in an attempt to keep coolant away from the throttle body. This way, the TB will be cooler and we should expect slightly better throttle response and power.
Those of you have an NWP Spacer Kit have one that came with it.
Some others might have tried to make one themselves in hopes that this cheap mod (less than two bucks) could provide some gains in power.
The main concern for the mod is when it is extremely cold outside and without the coolant heating up the TB, it could potentially stick.
So my questions are:
Who here has a coolant bypass?
If you have one, do you live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters and where? (Something like the NE or Canada).
Does it make a difference in how the car drives, throttle response, fuel economy, or performance?
Have you had any issues with the TB sticking in the winter?
Has anyone avoided using one because of this potential sticking issue?
Any suggestions for someone living in the NE on doing this mod would be appreciated. It's not too difficult to take apart when it comes to winter time I suppose, but is it worth it to put it on?
From what I understand, it's basically adding on small connection between the input and output for the coolant at the throttle body in an attempt to keep coolant away from the throttle body. This way, the TB will be cooler and we should expect slightly better throttle response and power.
Those of you have an NWP Spacer Kit have one that came with it.
Some others might have tried to make one themselves in hopes that this cheap mod (less than two bucks) could provide some gains in power.
The main concern for the mod is when it is extremely cold outside and without the coolant heating up the TB, it could potentially stick.
So my questions are:
Who here has a coolant bypass?
If you have one, do you live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters and where? (Something like the NE or Canada).
Does it make a difference in how the car drives, throttle response, fuel economy, or performance?
Have you had any issues with the TB sticking in the winter?
Has anyone avoided using one because of this potential sticking issue?
Any suggestions for someone living in the NE on doing this mod would be appreciated. It's not too difficult to take apart when it comes to winter time I suppose, but is it worth it to put it on?
05-31-2011, 12:53 PM
#2
My understanding of why coolant is cycled around the Throttle Body is to use the heated fluid to warm the TB in sub-zero temperatures so it doesn't stick. Right? Wrong? IDK for sure, really. There's some funny in the idea of using something called "coolant" in order to heat things up... but there it is.
NWP gives you this adapter so you can easily disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses that go to the TB, which is nice and all, but not required for phenolic spacer installation. It also leaves a lot of rubber hose lying around.
An alternative is to simply loop one of the hoses back around. Same net effect... less rubber. Here's a picture:
I live in Upstate NY, which only sees 1 or 2 sub-zero days a year, so I'm not really worried about that.
As to performance increases because of cooler air... who knows? I've got spacers, you see.
NWP gives you this adapter so you can easily disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses that go to the TB, which is nice and all, but not required for phenolic spacer installation. It also leaves a lot of rubber hose lying around.
An alternative is to simply loop one of the hoses back around. Same net effect... less rubber. Here's a picture:
I live in Upstate NY, which only sees 1 or 2 sub-zero days a year, so I'm not really worried about that.
As to performance increases because of cooler air... who knows? I've got spacers, you see.
Last edited by Rochester; 05-31-2011 at 01:07 PM.
05-31-2011, 02:01 PM
#4
My understanding is that the coolant keeps the TB warm in freezing temperature, thereby mitigating the buildup of water vapor (which could then freeze after turning the engine off). As I live in WI/Upper Midwest (when I am in the States), freezing temps are common. I currently use one of these:
Last edited by tcb_02_max; 05-31-2011 at 02:04 PM.
05-31-2011, 03:31 PM
#8
I guess I was unclear.
I meant both my Maximas have this done to them, (coolant by-pass, no warmth to said TB in stated conditions). I haven't noticed good or bad in eleventy billion years of owning both my Maximas and the mileage to show for it on both models (TBW & throttle cable).
I meant both my Maximas have this done to them, (coolant by-pass, no warmth to said TB in stated conditions). I haven't noticed good or bad in eleventy billion years of owning both my Maximas and the mileage to show for it on both models (TBW & throttle cable).
05-31-2011, 05:04 PM
#9
ah I see, thanks for contributing nmexmax. So i guess it would be safe to have it even in the winter. Would you happen to know if it contributes at all to throttle response or performance or fuel economy? Im assuming that if it does help any of those, it won't be very noticeable
05-31-2011, 05:12 PM
#10
You know what? PM Aaron at NWP Engineering and ask him why he includes a bypass connector with his spacers. Better yet, forward this thread his way and get him to respond to the community directly. He's always helpful, and probably has the kind of authority you're looking for in your quest for bypass opinions.
05-31-2011, 06:57 PM
#11
I'm quite sure it's just an attempt to keep the intake air cooler. That is, during hot ambient conditions with an operating temperature engine.
Is there not also some concern to TB gasket leakage allowing coolant into TB mechanism and fouling it?
Is there not also some concern to TB gasket leakage allowing coolant into TB mechanism and fouling it?
08-18-2011, 10:19 AM
#12
My understanding is that the coolant keeps the TB warm in freezing temperature, thereby mitigating the buildup of water vapor (which could then freeze after turning the engine off). As I live in WI/Upper Midwest (when I am in the States), freezing temps are common. I currently use one of these:
Where did you get that plate ?
08-18-2011, 07:45 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 489
Just did it recently haven't gone thru winter yet. But when I had my Spec V in 03 I did bypass and it worked just fine. You won't have any issues.
Anything to keep away the heat is a plus. Trust me your engine will generate enough heat for all other parts in the winter.
Anything to keep away the heat is a plus. Trust me your engine will generate enough heat for all other parts in the winter.
08-18-2011, 10:05 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
Sooo without spacers there isnt a reason to do this? Maybe for the first few minutes after warming the coolant it would be "better" but the entire manifold is always evenly hot to the touch after driving.
Image you could hook up a seperate system that chills the intake manifold, but without spacers I only see it keep heating back up.
Image you could hook up a seperate system that chills the intake manifold, but without spacers I only see it keep heating back up.
11-02-2011, 08:11 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 42
Just completed it today and I live in a fairly cold clime in N. IL and will report if any issues. But I view this as additional insurance against coolant contacting IACV. I have found corrosion at the pin base of at least 2 IACVs that have faulted and possibly a third to not closing TSP before starting.
Procedure: Purchased 5/16" brass split hose mender with the claw backs. Disconnected each hose from each side of the IACV/TB and joined each to the brass mender and clamped with existing. Capped each IACV port with 3/8" ID black chair tips and these aren't as snug as I would have liked but not certain I even need any but it looks more finished. Fired up with no issues. Maybe $3.00 with Cook County tax and might have saved me real money if done sooner. Ignorance isn't bliss! It's expensive!
Procedure: Purchased 5/16" brass split hose mender with the claw backs. Disconnected each hose from each side of the IACV/TB and joined each to the brass mender and clamped with existing. Capped each IACV port with 3/8" ID black chair tips and these aren't as snug as I would have liked but not certain I even need any but it looks more finished. Fired up with no issues. Maybe $3.00 with Cook County tax and might have saved me real money if done sooner. Ignorance isn't bliss! It's expensive!
01-15-2015, 06:34 AM
#19
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2
How to do a coolant bypass?
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima and I'm trying to do a coolant bypass. I was wondering If someone could explain or give me the steps on how to do it. Thanks
My understanding of why coolant is cycled around the Throttle Body is to use the heated fluid to warm the TB in sub-zero temperatures so it doesn't stick. Right? Wrong? IDK for sure, really. There's some funny in the idea of using something called "coolant" in order to heat things up... but there it is.
NWP gives you this adapter so you can easily disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses that go to the TB, which is nice and all, but not required for phenolic spacer installation. It also leaves a lot of rubber hose lying around.
An alternative is to simply loop one of the hoses back around. Same net effect... less rubber. Here's a picture:
I live in Upstate NY, which only sees 1 or 2 sub-zero days a year, so I'm not really worried about that.
As to performance increases because of cooler air... who knows? I've got spacers, you see.
NWP gives you this adapter so you can easily disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses that go to the TB, which is nice and all, but not required for phenolic spacer installation. It also leaves a lot of rubber hose lying around.
An alternative is to simply loop one of the hoses back around. Same net effect... less rubber. Here's a picture:
I live in Upstate NY, which only sees 1 or 2 sub-zero days a year, so I'm not really worried about that.
As to performance increases because of cooler air... who knows? I've got spacers, you see.
01-15-2015, 07:06 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
01-18-2015, 11:50 AM
#21
I was looking around at coolant bypasses and started wondering who on here has one. From what I understand, it's basically adding on small connection between the input and output for the coolant at the throttle body in an attempt to keep coolant away from the throttle body. This way, the TB will be cooler and we should expect slightly better throttle response and power. Those of you have an NWP Spacer Kit have one that came with it. Some others might have tried to make one themselves in hopes that this cheap mod (less than two bucks) could provide some gains in power. The main concern for the mod is when it is extremely cold outside and without the coolant heating up the TB, it could potentially stick. So my questions are: Who here has a coolant bypass? If you have one, do you live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters and where? (Something like the NE or Canada). Does it make a difference in how the car drives, throttle response, fuel economy, or performance? Have you had any issues with the TB sticking in the winter? Has anyone avoided using one because of this potential sticking issue? Any suggestions for someone living in the NE on doing this mod would be appreciated. It's not too difficult to take apart when it comes to winter time I suppose, but is it worth it to put it on?
01-18-2015, 10:39 PM
#22
I did the bypass last week. I live in NJ, it doesn't get extremely cold here but cold enough. High temps in the teens last week during the day. I saw no real difference as far as performance but that's not the reason for doing the bypass. It's more for a peace of mind thing. Knowing I'm not going to fry my ecu is enough of reason to do it for me. Very simple and the cost was less than $2.00 so I'm happy.
It can make a difference in the summer (helps reduce heat soak). With NWP spacers it's definitely noticeable.
01-19-2015, 03:54 PM
#23
01-19-2015, 10:05 PM
#24
10-24-2015, 07:02 PM
#26
I have already posted the instructions here: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9010920
You needn't to purchase any brass splits. Apart from removing the air intake, it's very simple: There are two hoses coming in and out of the IACV/TB - let's call the inflow hose H1 and the outflow hose H2:
Disconnect the destination end of H1 (the one on the IACV) from the IACV.
Disconnect the destination end of H2 (the end not on the IACV).
Connect the end of H1 you just freed in #1 above to the engine port you just freed in #2 above. At this point, you just by-passed the IACV.
Now, you may want to do something about H2 - its one end is connected to the IACV, the other end is hanging free. Most people suggest looping it back to the other IACV port that is now free. You should try to blow out any coolant remaining in the IACV before closing the loop. Alternately, don't close the loop just yet, and let the coolant dry out first (that's what I did).
The hoses happen to be long enough that you can do all this without purchasing any brass splits, new hoses, and not even clamps. What you may need though is a good set of hose pliers to move the clamps and hoses around. I bought some very good ones (and very inexpensive) at HarborFreight tools.
Disconnect the destination end of H1 (the one on the IACV) from the IACV.
Disconnect the destination end of H2 (the end not on the IACV).
Connect the end of H1 you just freed in #1 above to the engine port you just freed in #2 above. At this point, you just by-passed the IACV.
Now, you may want to do something about H2 - its one end is connected to the IACV, the other end is hanging free. Most people suggest looping it back to the other IACV port that is now free. You should try to blow out any coolant remaining in the IACV before closing the loop. Alternately, don't close the loop just yet, and let the coolant dry out first (that's what I did).
The hoses happen to be long enough that you can do all this without purchasing any brass splits, new hoses, and not even clamps. What you may need though is a good set of hose pliers to move the clamps and hoses around. I bought some very good ones (and very inexpensive) at HarborFreight tools.
am i supposed to bypass the egr valve too? even then i don't see how that hose is long enough...
10-24-2015, 08:34 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Read this doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view - there is a picture in it.
10-24-2015, 08:38 PM
#28
My question is. Is the coolant in have pressure or no?? If yes how much psi?? This is the line I'm taping for coolant for turbo.
10-24-2015, 08:53 PM
#29
Absolutely no need for any brass splits!
Read this doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view - there is a picture in it.
Read this doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view - there is a picture in it.
as a side (maybe related) note, my picture does not look like the one posted by rochester earlier in the thread. maybe there are subtle differences between early 00, late 00, and 01 models. i thought 02-03 has no iacv, but mattx's post above has me more confused
Last edited by cornholio; 10-24-2015 at 09:08 PM.
10-24-2015, 09:07 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
the "picture" in your doc is a simple flowchart pic. the picture i posted above is the reality of what is in my engine bay.. there is no possible way to bypass with the existing hoses i have to work with
as a side (maybe related) note, my picture does not look like the one posted by rochester earlier in the thread. maybe there are subtle differences between early 00, late 00, and 01 models. i understand the 02-03 has no iacv
as a side (maybe related) note, my picture does not look like the one posted by rochester earlier in the thread. maybe there are subtle differences between early 00, late 00, and 01 models. i understand the 02-03 has no iacv
10-24-2015, 11:13 PM
#31
i do appreciate the input btw
10-24-2015, 11:57 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
However, the same "bypass principle" applies, as depicted in my note.
Note to Mattx: No point in doing coolant bypass on 2002-3 Maximas as these newer Maximas have no IACV.
Last edited by maxiiiboy; 10-25-2015 at 12:00 AM.
10-25-2015, 01:06 AM
#33
You configuration indeed looks a bit different then on my car (my car was made in October 1999). My hoses are about 6-8" long, a lot longer than yours. Which year/month was your car made in?
However, the same "bypass principle" applies, as depicted in my note.
Note to Mattx: No point in doing coolant bypass on 2002-3 Maximas as these newer Maximas have no IACV.
However, the same "bypass principle" applies, as depicted in my note.
Note to Mattx: No point in doing coolant bypass on 2002-3 Maximas as these newer Maximas have no IACV.
10-25-2015, 07:02 AM
#34
You configuration indeed looks a bit different then on my car (my car was made in October 1999). My hoses are about 6-8" long, a lot longer than yours. Which year/month was your car made in? However, the same "bypass principle" applies, as depicted in my note. Note to Mattx: No point in doing coolant bypass on 2002-3 Maximas as these newer Maximas have no IACV.
10-25-2015, 02:50 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
10-25-2015, 04:51 PM
#37
10-25-2015, 07:24 PM
#38
[QUOTE=Rochester;8065906]My understanding of why coolant is cycled around the Throttle Body is to use the heated fluid to warm the TB in sub-zero temperatures so it doesn't stick. Right? Wrong? IDK for sure, really. There's some funny in the idea of using something called "coolant" in order to heat things up... but there it is.
It is funny until you turn the heater on.
It is funny until you turn the heater on.
10-26-2015, 03:34 AM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: BRONX
Posts: 720
Get the longer hoses and do it right or pay the price of coolant everywhere,\ and over heating too after air gets in the system. Been their done that. If you really need to use the old hoses just plug em, don't reroute....worked for me too that way.
10-31-2015, 01:58 AM
#40
I was looking around at coolant bypasses and started wondering who on here has one.
From what I understand, it's basically adding on small connection between the input and output for the coolant at the throttle body in an attempt to keep coolant away from the throttle body. This way, the TB will be cooler and we should expect slightly better throttle response and power.
Those of you have an NWP Spacer Kit have one that came with it.
Some others might have tried to make one themselves in hopes that this cheap mod (less than two bucks) could provide some gains in power.
The main concern for the mod is when it is extremely cold outside and without the coolant heating up the TB, it could potentially stick.
So my questions are:
Who here has a coolant bypass?
If you have one, do you live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters and where? (Something like the NE or Canada).
Does it make a difference in how the car drives, throttle response, fuel economy, or performance?
Have you had any issues with the TB sticking in the winter?
Has anyone avoided using one because of this potential sticking issue?
Any suggestions for someone living in the NE on doing this mod would be appreciated. It's not too difficult to take apart when it comes to winter time I suppose, but is it worth it to put it on?
From what I understand, it's basically adding on small connection between the input and output for the coolant at the throttle body in an attempt to keep coolant away from the throttle body. This way, the TB will be cooler and we should expect slightly better throttle response and power.
Those of you have an NWP Spacer Kit have one that came with it.
Some others might have tried to make one themselves in hopes that this cheap mod (less than two bucks) could provide some gains in power.
The main concern for the mod is when it is extremely cold outside and without the coolant heating up the TB, it could potentially stick.
So my questions are:
Who here has a coolant bypass?
If you have one, do you live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters and where? (Something like the NE or Canada).
Does it make a difference in how the car drives, throttle response, fuel economy, or performance?
Have you had any issues with the TB sticking in the winter?
Has anyone avoided using one because of this potential sticking issue?
Any suggestions for someone living in the NE on doing this mod would be appreciated. It's not too difficult to take apart when it comes to winter time I suppose, but is it worth it to put it on?
