power door locks, rear defrost, dome light don't work
07-18-2009, 07:42 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 39
power door locks, rear defrost, dome light don't work
All of the sudden my door locks have stopped working, not the switches on the doors, or the key fob. The trunk won't open from the key fob but the button on the driver door works. The panic button on the key fob doesn't work either, nor due the rear defroster or the dome lights. That's what I have found so far. The rear defrost fuse looks fine.
Is there no pwr door fuse?
Any ideas? Please?
Is there no pwr door fuse?
Any ideas? Please?
07-18-2009, 07:54 PM
#4
i am pretty sure the dome light and locks are on the same fuse i am almost positive the defrost is on a different one but fuses are easy to check and would be a good the most logical place to start looking
if i remember correctly the doors are powered from the interior illumination fuse or something like that, but i dont think it specifically says door locks
if i remember correctly the doors are powered from the interior illumination fuse or something like that, but i dont think it specifically says door locks
Last edited by Feldman; 07-18-2009 at 07:57 PM.
07-22-2009, 09:33 PM
#7
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 34
Check all the fuses in the box on the drivers side and under the hood. Using a meter would be best. If all the fuses are good, you should check the SECU 5V pins. I have the wiring diagram if you need more info. If you find the SECU bad, pull it out and get the exact model number off of it and order it from a junkyard. Then you have to reprogram your keyfob which is pretty painless.
08-09-2009, 12:04 AM
#8
08-09-2009, 08:51 AM
#9
All of the sudden my door locks have stopped working, not the switches on the doors, or the key fob. The trunk won't open from the key fob but the button on the driver door works. The panic button on the key fob doesn't work either, nor due the rear defroster or the dome lights. That's what I have found so far. The rear defrost fuse looks fine.
Is there no pwr door fuse?
Any ideas? Please?
Is there no pwr door fuse?
Any ideas? Please?
If your trunk room lamp doesn't work either then Battery Saver inside SECU doesn't turn on therefore all those troubles. Trunk lamp is just one of its loads which is simple to check.
The reson for that is most likely failure of 5V power supply inside SECU as Maxim24 suggested. The most realistic way to fix is to follow his recommendations.
08-09-2009, 08:55 AM
#10
Check all the fuses in the box on the drivers side and under the hood. Using a meter would be best. If all the fuses are good, you should check the SECU 5V pins. I have the wiring diagram if you need more info. If you find the SECU bad, pull it out and get the exact model number off of it and order it from a junkyard. Then you have to reprogram your keyfob which is pretty painless.
.
Last edited by Max_5gen; 08-09-2009 at 09:21 AM.
08-09-2009, 02:23 PM
#12
There're none so to speak, SECu doesn't output 5V as a power supply. What it does and probably what Maxim24 was referring to is it uses internally created 5V to test various switches states. For example, for passenger side front door switch this is pin 40 according to FSM: when the door is closed you should see 5V there and 0V if it is open. The idea is that if 5V power supply inside SECU is dead you will see 0V regardless of the door position.
Last edited by Max_5gen; 08-09-2009 at 02:52 PM.
08-09-2009, 08:29 PM
#14
Check your shift lock fuse under the steering wheel, mine blew a while back and I had almost identical problems, except i couldnt get my car out of gear either without manually triggering the button on my AT gearshift
09-10-2009, 03:40 AM
#15
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Power Doors/Rear Defroster
I am having a similar problem after a battery change (first since car was purchased new). The battery was changed by a local smaller shop and when I received the car I had to adjust the clock/radio presets and drove off. When I got home and tried to lock the car doors with the remote it did not work. I then went back into the car and checked out all of the other electronics and found the rear defroster was not turning on through the middle console button.
These were working prior to the battery change and the shop supposedly called Nissan and they said that these issues should not be caused by the battery swap.
I checked the fuses (as well as the shop) and they all look to be ok. From what I was reading there is some module that may control both of these and has failed? Could that be the case or is there a chance it has to be reprogammed/reset that I can do. I was told I would have to take it to Nissan to have them put it on a special computer system to have the codes read ($110) and don't want to go that route if I don't have to.
It is hard to believe that this fails in the 20 minutes the car is in the shop and worked fine for 9 years. Their obvious contention is that it didn't work when it was brought in, so I am in a bit of a pickle.
Perhaps it is something simple; any help/thoughts would be appreciated.
These were working prior to the battery change and the shop supposedly called Nissan and they said that these issues should not be caused by the battery swap.
I checked the fuses (as well as the shop) and they all look to be ok. From what I was reading there is some module that may control both of these and has failed? Could that be the case or is there a chance it has to be reprogammed/reset that I can do. I was told I would have to take it to Nissan to have them put it on a special computer system to have the codes read ($110) and don't want to go that route if I don't have to.
It is hard to believe that this fails in the 20 minutes the car is in the shop and worked fine for 9 years. Their obvious contention is that it didn't work when it was brought in, so I am in a bit of a pickle.
Perhaps it is something simple; any help/thoughts would be appreciated.
09-10-2009, 04:13 AM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 11
I had the same problem...keep pressing the rear defoger on and off with the car running then turn the car off and on it will work that's wut I did and it worked...keep trying that untill it works...
09-10-2009, 05:31 AM
#17
I am having a similar problem after a battery change (first since car was purchased new). The battery was changed by a local smaller shop and when I received the car I had to adjust the clock/radio presets and drove off. When I got home and tried to lock the car doors with the remote it did not work. I then went back into the car and checked out all of the other electronics and found the rear defroster was not turning on through the middle console button.
These were working prior to the battery change and the shop supposedly called Nissan and they said that these issues should not be caused by the battery swap.
I checked the fuses (as well as the shop) and they all look to be ok. From what I was reading there is some module that may control both of these and has failed? Could that be the case or is there a chance it has to be reprogammed/reset that I can do. I was told I would have to take it to Nissan to have them put it on a special computer system to have the codes read ($110) and don't want to go that route if I don't have to.
It is hard to believe that this fails in the 20 minutes the car is in the shop and worked fine for 9 years. Their obvious contention is that it didn't work when it was brought in, so I am in a bit of a pickle.
Perhaps it is something simple; any help/thoughts would be appreciated.
These were working prior to the battery change and the shop supposedly called Nissan and they said that these issues should not be caused by the battery swap.
I checked the fuses (as well as the shop) and they all look to be ok. From what I was reading there is some module that may control both of these and has failed? Could that be the case or is there a chance it has to be reprogammed/reset that I can do. I was told I would have to take it to Nissan to have them put it on a special computer system to have the codes read ($110) and don't want to go that route if I don't have to.
It is hard to believe that this fails in the 20 minutes the car is in the shop and worked fine for 9 years. Their obvious contention is that it didn't work when it was brought in, so I am in a bit of a pickle.
Perhaps it is something simple; any help/thoughts would be appreciated.
You can find procedure to reprogram your remote here on the site, it does not require dealer equipment.
09-28-2009, 09:47 AM
#20
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Been down and out with the flu which was horrible, but may have a good ending. After 10 days of being shut off in my garage, I tried to start the car and just clicked when trying to start. I checked the lights and turned on but was dim and got dimmer as I left it on for ~15 seconds. Called for a jump, and started up and left it running for 20 minutes. Came back to the car and for kicked tried the rear defroster button and the amber light came on. Stepped out and closed the door and tried the keyless remote and that worked fine as well.
Does anyone have an idea why a jump start would cause the keyless remote and rear defroster to start working again? Hopefully this is the end of the problems, but if it comes back again would like to know how this potentially corrected the problem.
Does anyone have an idea why a jump start would cause the keyless remote and rear defroster to start working again? Hopefully this is the end of the problems, but if it comes back again would like to know how this potentially corrected the problem.
lucky guy.
11-07-2009, 04:35 PM
#22
Hey, I was changing the trunk light bulb and as I was putting it in, it flashed for a second and went out. Now the Keyless entry remote doesnt work, the key ring light, the door lock switch doesnt work unless the car is on, door step light and dome light do not work at all. Normally I would be able to turn on the headlights with the car off, now they turn on only when the car is on. First thought was a fuse? Will check them tomorrow, but if they turn out to be okay, then I would have to replace the SECU for sure? Thank you!!
11-09-2009, 12:29 AM
#24
Do all your interior lights work, and only your headlight wont come on with the car off? Check the fuses under the hood.
11-09-2009, 07:30 AM
#27
Posts #7 & #9 cover all you have to do. I'm sorry but if the fuses I listed are OK your next option is SECU replacement. I'd go with junk yard one and 'reprogram' it myself saving loads of cash in the process compare to dealer service; it's up to you.
11-09-2009, 05:08 PM
#30
If you mean 'Battery Saver' under abbreviation 'bcm' then it is part of the SECU, the very same physical box. I don't have picture handy but it is behind the central console under the AC controls close to firewall. IIRC you need to remove both kick panels in order to reach the bolts holding it in place from both sides.
11-09-2009, 05:49 PM
#31
Here's a comment from the Nismo site from one of the guys with the same problem as you have with the SECU
"Problems fixed, I got a new smart entrance control module OEM for around $190 (my friend got some extras discounts from the stealership) thanks God!. After installing it, I had to do the keyfod re-learn, really easy procedure. First make sure all the doors are closed, then insert in and out (three times) the key into the ignition switch and the hazards lights will blink three times, after it, insert the key to the ACC position and press any key on the keyfod, you are going to hear a few clicks from under the dash and to end the procedure just open the driver's door and that's it.
Everything is working now!, the lights were working as soon as I connected the new unit, the keyfod started to work after doing the keyfod relearn. The "smart entrance control module" is under the dash, near the steerwheel columm."
Here's the listing for the FSM's http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
select you year and you will want to download the EL section to find the wire and location of the SECU it is listed under door locks and component
"Problems fixed, I got a new smart entrance control module OEM for around $190 (my friend got some extras discounts from the stealership) thanks God!. After installing it, I had to do the keyfod re-learn, really easy procedure. First make sure all the doors are closed, then insert in and out (three times) the key into the ignition switch and the hazards lights will blink three times, after it, insert the key to the ACC position and press any key on the keyfod, you are going to hear a few clicks from under the dash and to end the procedure just open the driver's door and that's it.
Everything is working now!, the lights were working as soon as I connected the new unit, the keyfod started to work after doing the keyfod relearn. The "smart entrance control module" is under the dash, near the steerwheel columm."
Here's the listing for the FSM's http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
select you year and you will want to download the EL section to find the wire and location of the SECU it is listed under door locks and component
Last edited by Ghost_54; 11-09-2009 at 06:05 PM.
11-09-2009, 07:26 PM
#33
If you mean 'Battery Saver' under abbreviation 'bcm' then it is part of the SECU, the very same physical box. I don't have picture handy but it is behind the central console under the AC controls close to firewall. IIRC you need to remove both kick panels in order to reach the bolts holding it in place from both sides.
11-09-2009, 09:02 PM
#34
Never heard of that - we're talking about 2001 Max here, correct? Could you point me where to look for such unit? I looked in 2k and 2k2 FSMs and neither mentions it 
Never mind - found it in 2004 and 4th gen. I don't think you'll find one in yours.
regarding the picture - I already said that neither of those boxes are SECU:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...or-lights.html
... and it seemed you found it later in that thread. What happened? - did you lose it again?
Never mind - found it in 2004 and 4th gen. I don't think you'll find one in yours.regarding the picture - I already said that neither of those boxes are SECU:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...or-lights.html
... and it seemed you found it later in that thread. What happened? - did you lose it again?
Last edited by Max_5gen; 11-09-2009 at 09:15 PM.
11-09-2009, 09:56 PM
#35
Never heard of that - we're talking about 2001 Max here, correct? Could you point me where to look for such unit? I looked in 2k and 2k2 FSMs and neither mentions it Never mind - found it in 2004 and 4th gen. I don't think you'll find one in yours.
regarding the picture - I already said that neither of those boxes are SECU:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...or-lights.html
... and it seemed you found it later in that thread. What happened? - did you lose it again?
Never mind - found it in 2004 and 4th gen. I don't think you'll find one in yours.regarding the picture - I already said that neither of those boxes are SECU:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...or-lights.html
... and it seemed you found it later in that thread. What happened? - did you lose it again?
check this out the below same as my orig pic?
Last edited by mrjamaica98mx; 11-09-2009 at 10:24 PM.
11-10-2009, 06:20 AM
#36
I see - I was wrong, yours has 3 connectors. Now looking at page EL-354 of 2001 FSM you can see yourself where it is located in the passenger compartment.
06-18-2010, 05:16 PM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 39
Well Finall broke down and bought an SECU
Well I finally broke down and bought an SECU. I was looking into fixing the one I had. Tried replacing the Caps on the board but that didn't do it. The problem Is probably with the 5V Power Relay's on the board but they can't be opened to clean or check out. I called Taiko the manufacturer and they can't sell just one's and two's to individuals. They only sell them in high quantity to manufacturers. I searched junk yards and Ebay to no avail. (I have the 2 plug version) Finally got the best price I could find from Dave B. installed it today and did the Keyfob re-learn (Thanks Ghost-54) - I had to move the key in and out really fast to get the hazards to flash.
Anyway glad it is fixed and still think it is a rip off from Nissan.
Anyway glad it is fixed and still think it is a rip off from Nissan.
08-05-2013, 07:23 AM
#39
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
Hey, i know no one has posted to this thread for a few years. I just bought a 2k Maxima with 44k miles a few months back. I just got the same exact problem, (power locks, rear defroster, interior lights don't work). I checked all my fuses (left of steering wheel and under the hood), only found 1 blown 5A fuse, which I replaced. Still had the problem. Went to a junkyard and grabbed a SECU, plugged it in and still had the problem. Did anyone ever find another solution besides the replacing the SECU? I'm a college student and really don't want to pay a Nissan dealer or an autoshop to diagnose and fix.
Thanks!
Thanks!
07-31-2014, 10:50 AM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 79
So I had these same issues but had trouble finding a SECU at a local junkyard. I'm glad I didn't because...
THERE MIGHT BE AN EASIER WAY!!
****Try disconnecting the two plugs going into the SECU, waiting 5 seconds and then reconnecting them. After about a year of no interior lights, power door locks, and rear defrost.... they all work!! The first time I plugged them back in the horn started honking like the car alarm going off and again when I opened the trunk. So the second time I made sure the keys were in the ignition and turned to accessory, unplugged the plugs and reconnected them starting with the white plug first. After this I had no more alarms. Also, FYI I took off the kick panel under the steering wheel by removing two screws to make unplugging the unit easier.
This is the box that I assumed to be the SECU: Click the image to open in full size.
I found this thread: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...defroster.html and thankfully tried unplugging it before buying a brand new unit from a dealer. Finally no more using a flashlight inside my car!
THERE MIGHT BE AN EASIER WAY!!
****Try disconnecting the two plugs going into the SECU, waiting 5 seconds and then reconnecting them. After about a year of no interior lights, power door locks, and rear defrost.... they all work!! The first time I plugged them back in the horn started honking like the car alarm going off and again when I opened the trunk. So the second time I made sure the keys were in the ignition and turned to accessory, unplugged the plugs and reconnected them starting with the white plug first. After this I had no more alarms. Also, FYI I took off the kick panel under the steering wheel by removing two screws to make unplugging the unit easier.
This is the box that I assumed to be the SECU: Click the image to open in full size.
I found this thread: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...defroster.html and thankfully tried unplugging it before buying a brand new unit from a dealer. Finally no more using a flashlight inside my car!