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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

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Old 12-05-2013, 09:15 AM   #1
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wheel bearing problems

I recently purchased a 2000 Maxima about 3 months ago. I believe the car has been in an accident recently because the front, and rear bumpers are freshly painted and the doors are slightly out of aligned. Few weeks after I started driving it, I noticed the wheel bearing needed to be changed. It was makes all types of noises when I would turn, and also when I jacked up the car and tried to shake the tire up and down, It moved dramasticly. I brought it to a well known shop around my area and had it fixed. after about 3 days of driving, the same problem occured, and then got it fixed again with a more quality US made bearing. And again, about a week went by it needs replaced again. I changed it out 3 times within 2 months. And problem keeps occuring. The mechanic said the hub and spindle looked fine and didn't need changing. Can anyone think of a reason the bearing could be going out so quick? I never have heard of this happening. Thanks in advanced, Cameron.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:25 AM   #2
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change the hub too. It is causing the bearing to go bad...and fire your mechanic
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I remember that the insert looked bigger than the opening in the mount, however when I used lube it slid right in
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:59 AM   #3
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change the hub too. It is causing the bearing to go bad...and fire your mechanic
Could the spindle be bad also? Could it be effected by driving with a worn bearing? Or could it be another reason of the bearing going out? Thanks again.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:01 AM   #4
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Could the spindle be bad also? Could it be effected by driving with a worn bearing? Or could it be another reason of the bearing going out? Thanks again.
the spindle should be fine. Its always best to replace hub+bearing when doing bearing work. Once the old bearing started going bad the hub got compromised and will prematurely damge the new bearing
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I remember that the insert looked bigger than the opening in the mount, however when I used lube it slid right in
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:03 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by smplyamzng View Post
the spindle should be fine. Its always best to replace hub+bearing when doing bearing work. Once the old bearing started going bad the hub got compromised and will prematurely damge the new bearing
Thank you, I will change hub and bearing again soon, and will post the results.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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Thank you, I will change hub and bearing again soon, and will post the results.
Looking forward to your post as I need to do this soon also. Passenger side front wheel. Trying to figure out if I need to replace the entire hub and bearing.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #7
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Thank you, I will change hub and bearing again soon, and will post the results.
Go to autozone and get the timken bearing and hub. Far better than other replacement parts available aside from oem.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:50 PM   #8
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Timken re packages NTN bearings.
OEM uses NTN bearings.

If you buy a TIMKEN bearing it will be identical to the OEM one. Except the cost will be about 1/5 lol. And you should probably do the spindle also I've seen them go bad as well
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:38 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000 View Post
Timken re packages NTN bearings.
OEM uses NTN bearings.

If you buy a TIMKEN bearing it will be identical to the OEM one. Except the cost will be about 1/5 lol. And you should probably do the spindle also I've seen them go bad as well
Didn't realize that!
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:26 AM   #10
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I'm replacing my rear wheel hub assembly. Does anyone know if you absolutely HAVE to use a new lock nut, or has anyone just reused the old one? The service manual says not to reuse. I know for sure I'll have to get new dust caps, I'm going to have to beat the hell out of those things to get them off.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emaximus View Post
I'm replacing my rear wheel hub assembly. Does anyone know if you absolutely HAVE to use a new lock nut, or has anyone just reused the old one? The service manual says not to reuse. I know for sure I'll have to get new dust caps, I'm going to have to beat the hell out of those things to get them off.
I would use a new one. For something like wheels/hubs etc, yeah, safety.
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:39 PM   #12
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most hubs/bearing packages come with new nuts, iirc our 5.5 gens are 32mm. I bought timken front hubs/bearings and had them pressed into the knuckles at a machine shop. make sure you detach the abs sensor harness from the inside the engine bay and gentle pull out from wheel well, much easier than trying to separating from knuckle, imo.

the rears, i just bought the cheapest~$29/hub. BUT, i completely forgot about pressing off old abs rotor sensors on the factory rear hubs, lots of metal teeth on a ring pressed on the rear hubs with abs, and pressing them on the new rear hubs. the fsm says to press in new abs rotor sensors onto new rear hubs, but im going to try to use the old ones. rock auto had rear hubs with abs sensors rings already pressed in, but they were ~$60/hub. going to rent some 3 legged puller/presser at pepboys and see if i could do myself, i've been getting a abs light after ~80mph, im guessing due to the different voltages the front sensors are readings vs. whatever the sensors in the rear are/aren't reading for the 4-way ABS brakes systems. check our FSM AX-19 about rear hubs. i was trying to save some money, but it you want to make it easy for yourself, buy the ones already pressed in hubs, it's a simple plug and play.

all parts purchased at rockauto. factory suggest new nuts b/c they require cinching newly installed axle nuts, to prevent accidental backing off.

Last edited by zenjia 03merlot; 03-11-2014 at 11:48 AM..
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:39 PM
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