macevanscb

I have a 2000 SE with about 170K on it and the water pump just exploded on me. While nursing the SE home, the oil light came on 2 blocks from home. I assumed it was from antifreeze in the oil.

When I pulled the water pump out, bearing rollers were coming out of the pump bearing and we had to pick some rollers out of the pump gallery.

It started right up and ran great after replacing the pump and changing the oil (10W-30) and antifreeze. I took it for a text drive. 10mi into the drive, the oil light started flickering, coming on solid several times for a little while. I immediately returned home.

I changed out the 10W-30 oil with 20W-50 (a trick I use on my '86 300ZX with almost 300K on it.). That helped a lot, but the oil light still came on at idle. It went off and stayed off over 1250RPM but it always came on at idle.

Has anyone out there any experience with this type of problem?? I searched the 4th and 5th gen forums without finding any help. I have a feeling I'm going to have to tear off the entire front of the engine to inspect/replace the oil pump.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

id hook up a oil pressure gauge first and see if the reading is in spec

00Lightsout

was there water in your oil when you changed it?


the chain that operates the water pump is the main timing chain from the crank & the oil pump is located on the front of the crank just behind the crank pulley. The oil pump pressure sending unit is under the passenger axle and to the "left" of the oil filter when facing the passenger front tire. I had the oil pressure sending unit diaphragm blow when I had a small water pump internal seal leak causing a weep hole leak. Replace the sensor(after draining the oil). I also ran 20w50 for almost 2 years because I thought I had other problems... turns out that our cars love love love 5w30... I also ran 0w30 for the past year after a full engine bore & rebuild 1.5 years ago.


running 20w50 gives you "better oil pressure" because the main timing chain tensioner operates so close to the oil pressure sensor... and you get better pressure at a higher RPM because the oil pump is pressing the 20w50 into smaller tolerances and 3 chain tensioner pinholes for the tensioner piston to press firmly against the chains.


swap the oil sensor and i'd be willing to bet you'll be ok... cheapest 'fix/diagnosis' for right now. for the next 3k+ miles I'm sure the 20w50 is going to be ok... yet 10w30 is a better choice





^ the oil passage gasket through the timing cover was my weak point in the end along with a failed sensor. I understand that you can't purchase the gasket itself, so I formed a paper filter(same as original filter) and then sealed it in nice and tight.

00Lightsout

you still there?