valerian

So I just bought my first Nissan MAX 2010 with 23K miles on it for $20K. I like the drive so far, that said is not as comfortable as my old Avalon. I am also noticing “rough” idle while parked, it moves between 5K and 10K rpm. Is this normal?

PSU09MAXIMA

That def doesn't sound normal at all... Are you saying when stopped it idles all the way up to 5K

STARR

iTrader: (1)

The Avalon is butter smooth, some would think way to quiet, the 7th Gen is rougher, it lets you know its awake, and yes from time to time you will be sitting in the car wondering if you left a window cracked

The rpm your quoting sounds high, like your engine would kill itself if it was that high

I switched to synthetic, the mental effect does more for me then anything

PalmettoFellow

The car doesn't even go up to 10K rpm; redline is around 6k or so based on memory. Can you re-evaluate and get back to us?

Did you mean 500-1000 rpm?

CorollaULEV

Idle speed should be 650rpm. With that being said, that is with transmission in park and no accessories on. A/C off, fan off, headlights off, rear defroster off...everything off. With climate control on and A/C on, idle speed will fluctuate some. Mine will fluctuate between ~700 and 900rpm with the A/C compressor kicking on and off.

You may need to perform the idle-air relearn procedure and the accelerator released position relearn. It's easy to do, but requires a stopwatch.

Late,
Trav

dr_2010SV

^....if all else fails it's still under warrenty. Hopefully you can find a local Nissan service dept that won't jack you around.

jspagna

The Maxima is no Avalon. Avalon is for old people. I'm 52 years old and would not drive an Avalon.
As for the RPM it can't be going that high. Now idling rough is a different story. Take it to the dealer and have them check it out.

silberma

[QUOTE=STARR;8647510]The Avalon is butter smooth, some would think way to quiet, the 7th Gen is rougher, it lets you know its awake, and yes from time to time you will be sitting in the car wondering if you left a window cracked

The car is very quite however it floats on the highway because it is too softly sprung. It appeals to people who do not value a responsive car.

LtLeary

I noticed this when my freon level was a bit low. (I assume when the front body work was replaced after a run in with a suicidal racoon, the techs may have had to disconnect lines and didn't fill correctly. A little "refrigerant" and no more idle issues (surging between 500 and 1k)

mayala86

2012 maxima sv-sport
current miles 41k
bought new with 10 miles.

i have had this issue since day 1, when A/C on, fan and everything turn on quick and it sounds crapy from outside. progressivly its getting worse. idle jumps from 650rpm down to 400rpm to 900 or so it goes up and down, feels nasty.. no break down yet ive been thinking about replacing spark plugs bc H/O alternator is too much $$$

any ideas???

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

Mine does the same thing, hover around 600-650, then as the AC compressor needs to re-pressurize the system, it jumps only slightly and dips only slightly.
Probably down to 500, and surges to about 700-800-ish as the engine generates more power to compensate.

At any rate, what is your question?
Are you asking if you should replace the spark plugs to see if the problem goes away, or are you just wondering what modifications you are looking to perform on your car?

A high output alternator will most likely not solve your problem of the engine surge. The compressor is mechanical, not electrical.
Replacing the spark plugs will probably not help either, we have iridium tipped plugs IIRC and they last until 90k miles.

LSExplorer22

I apologize for this not being too informative, but when I have time I am going to write my experience of having my car in the dealership for one month!!! It started with a rough idle/ses light on. I am going to make it detailed and informative for everyone. But I am swamped for time. It took one month to find the cause of the rough idle.

assiduous

My idle does not fluctuate too much but it is kind of rough for a brand new car. Like there is one hickup every 5 seconds or so. My old maxima and my subaru idle better, completely monotonous. I thought there was a reason for that and its OK.. maybe not.. I am not sure now.

mayala86

has anyone resolved the idle problem?


I mean brand new car, with maybe a small compressor that is over working?(spins too fast, small pullys) im guessing bc at first i thoguht it was alternator or current issue (sprak plugs). the corporate has to be something with the compressor.


Has anyone modified the compressor(lighter pullys or any off the wall ideas), or have had anyluck getting rid of flucuating RPMS when at idle with ac on. (enpough that it makes the car feel like its going to turn off)



my car runs fine, air blows cold. its just in my head and plus it sounds crappy. my car is clean and new i dont think it should sound like a clunker...plus i read if compressor goes it might break ECU?? lol im not sure again i just know its not normal or acceptable

thanks guys for any advice

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I've had a compressor go bad on me...did nothing to the car computer.

deepshah420

i have a '10 maxima with 85,000 miles and i've been having the problem since 70,000 miles. took it to nissan 3 times before they told me i need a retard timing kit ($900 job) because i dont get my oil changes done on time. I make sure I never go over 6,000 miles and only use mobil1 full synthetic. I laughed and walked away. I went to my trusted mechanic and he flushed my transmission fluid for me. That solved the problem. Occasionally (once a month) I do have a rough idle but its nowhere near what it used to be.

zoemayne

iTrader: (4)

I get a rumble frequently at idle... could it be because of the load on the weak battery? Could it be the poor oem battery? I think it happens when I have the accessories turned up.

mayala86

UPDATE

i just recently replaced battery and it still rumbles with ac on at complete stops over 30 seconds, even with all electronics off,( it doesnt happen with ac off+ system fully blasted with amps high and everything.)


this week i did at home drain / fill on cvt, oil change ( full syn), brake change and still nothing. car feels great minus the a/c issue.



spark plugs now im sure are ok i only got 42k, but at about 60k or so i think im going to change em, any body have suggestions? DIY or take it in? i took cover off and they are all hidden in the back it looks "fun."



i stopped going to dealer after the 30k check up where they "tightend up" some brackets or something...they just tell u the obvious. if u take of your car do oil changes more frequently, new tires + roate every 5-6k, maintain filters it should be ok. full syn oil every 4k or so dont go over 5k, atleast i dont.


the compressor charge on the battery / alternator is the issue for the rumbling im pretty sure, i just dont know how to get around it. ( give it more juice, or upgrade ac compressor lol so it can spin faster or something, lighter pullies, more gas flow?)


this is the only downside of newer maximas to my knowledge

zohaibrafi

2010 Nissan Maxima with 97000 miles on it. While driving either on cruise or holding speed RPM will jump from 2200 to 3000 and come back down. Happens so fast that you feel a surge like a push. Don't know what it is but my dealership that I always go to says it normal but I know it's not. What could be the cause of this? Any help is greatly appreciated

CorollaULEV

At what speed is it doing this? My 2010 with 135000mi on it has done this always. The CVT transmission continuously fluctuates the RPM's at highway speed (regardless of cruise being on or off). Every 2-3 seconds, it will fluctuate 50-100rpm and occasionally, it will fluctuate widely (like 300-400rpm). Large changes in rpm aren't common, but it does do it on a fairly regular basis (every 5-10 minutes). The little fluctuations are constant, continuous and part of how the transmission is designed and programmed. I probably wouldn't worry about it unless it truly is fluctuating a full 800rpm all the time. Then it's time to get that transmission checked out.

Late,
Travis

Bificus99

Indeed, mine does this with incline changes in the roadway and headwinds. Kind of annoying sometimes on a gusty day so Ill drop it into M6 to lock the "gear".
On another note, I rented a Chrysler 200 which had some fault and would blip every 20 seconds repeatedly with cruise control on. Maddening, especially since I was 1.5 hours away from the rental center on my trip to Nashville.

CorollaULEV

I paid more attention today to the RPM fluctuations. I used my Torque OBD-II datalogger. I drove for 30 miles on interstate with cruise set at 75mph (per the speedometer). At a set 75mph on the speedometer, according to the RPM gauge on my OBD-II data logger, the RPM seemed to average around 2250rpm. It fluctuates continuously. The lowest I saw was 2175 and the highest was 2325. It typically would range 2200 to 2275, back and forth.

One thing you guys need to know is that the speedometer and tachometer on the instrument panel involves a digital to analogue conversion. There will always be an inherent error in a D/A conversion. It's just the nature of electronics. Most manufacturers err on the high side of conversion. I.e., at a true 75mph, the speedometer will usually read a bit low to prevent you from getting a ticket. At a precisely set 75mph, the speed recorded from the ECM was 73.3mph. And also, 2200RPM on the digital gauge shows 2400mph on the tachometer. So, it's reliable within 100-200rpm. Otherwise, don't absolutely 100% rely on it. It's just the nature of the D/A conversion.

Again - CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE transmissions won't maintain an exact set RPM at a constant speed, ever. It's just the nature of how they are built and programmed. Our CVT's have a positive feedback loop. The transmission control module (TCM) takes into consideration all the variables (load, accelerator pedal position, RPM, temperature, speed and many others) and commands the drive and driven pulleys to a certain width to create the desired final drive ratio via solenoids to create the desired line pressures to the pulleys. It constantly compares the desired ratio to the actual ratio and adjusts based on the feedback loop.

Occasional wide fluctuations in RPM aren't cause for concern. Frequent wide fluctuations are. Small 100-200rpm fluctuations are never cause for concern. It's just how these transmission work.

Late,
Trav

Les7311

Have same problem only my 2011 maxima rpm goes from exactly 2200 to about 2500, in a flash. Looking for a fix from this board. Now at 100k miles

Bificus99

CVT changing ratios, totally normal albeit annoying. Slight headwind or a semi truck can do this. Put it in Manual 6 and locks it in. Don't forget and try to pass someone.
Dang answered this already n the thread...

Les7311

Search done from Iphone and missed your response.

Find this hard to be normal when this observations (only) started a few months back, and very profound under normal driving conditions - - no trucks, light wind etc. Am tuned into my maxima repairs, and a DIY spark plug change is in order. Thanks for your input. Best!.

MaximaGuy14

Exactly know what you mean in regards to the ac compressor engagement. My 14 Maxima brand new would rumble/vibrate excessively, I feel for only a quick second. Just weird that my 07 3.5 Altima never did that being how its mechanicly identical but this car does.

Bificus99

Has your CVT fluid been changed yet?

Annie Smith

maybe loosen the tension on thecompressor belt. Less strain on the crank sould relievethe rpm issues. But also consider that the clutch on the ac compressor could be seizing causing the belt to slip. This could also explain the rpm flux. As well as the shameful sound heard from theoutside. The clutch pulley is definitely cheaper than the entire compressor.