VQ35 Swap how to tell if timing has skipped a tooth?
04-12-2012, 05:56 PM
#6
04-12-2012, 08:06 PM
#7
I had similar issue when i did my timing tensioners while swapping the 07 motor in my 04 maxima. My symptoms were a P1110 code. Car would not pickup as hard as with proper timing and if i were to rev the engine into 4K territory, it would stall. Hooked up consult, turns out i skipped a tooth in bank 1, was at 16°.
Only way you can tell if you have consult hooked up and read the timing data for each bank.
Only thing Ive learned is if you do tensioners, make sure you pressurize them with oil by disconnecting the injectors, putting in oil and take out the spark plugs. Simply crank for a good 10-20 seconds so the oil is distributed everywhere including the tensioners. This should prevent you from skipping timing.
Only way you can tell if you have consult hooked up and read the timing data for each bank.
Only thing Ive learned is if you do tensioners, make sure you pressurize them with oil by disconnecting the injectors, putting in oil and take out the spark plugs. Simply crank for a good 10-20 seconds so the oil is distributed everywhere including the tensioners. This should prevent you from skipping timing.
Last edited by L36; 04-12-2012 at 08:09 PM.
04-12-2012, 08:35 PM
#8
-3.0 IACV w/ Adapter the hose for the adapter is some what long so I may try and move it closer.
-Car starts right up, and will idle for a bit if given some gas, it then seems like its getting to much fuel and stalling out. Will have to check base fp. Anyone know what it should be set to?
-Car is not currently drive able as the cars tranny may need some work.
04-20-2012, 04:58 PM
#10
If it starts right up and idles fine, the cam timing is good. You can also verify this with a timing light and/or a vacuum gauge. You should have around 20in of vacuum at idle. Bad cam timing will give you like half that plus backfiring and being almost impossible to start without starter fluid.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
04-20-2012, 06:45 PM
#11
If it starts right up and idles fine, the cam timing is good. You can also verify this with a timing light and/or a vacuum gauge. You should have around 20in of vacuum at idle. Bad cam timing will give you like half that plus backfiring and being almost impossible to start without starter fluid.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
04-30-2012, 06:07 PM
#12
If it starts right up and idles fine, the cam timing is good. You can also verify this with a timing light and/or a vacuum gauge. You should have around 20in of vacuum at idle. Bad cam timing will give you like half that plus backfiring and being almost impossible to start without starter fluid.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
What you describe sounds more like a MAF or vacuum leak.
An engine with improper cam timing will have zero power. Seriously, you'll have trouble getting to and maintaining even 25mph. Don't ask how I know.
We're not talking about an annoying slight hesitation. We're talking about completely undrivable and unsafe.
04-30-2012, 09:58 PM
#13
The point is if you have the right timing, you should have over 200whp. If you're off 1 tooth, you might have 100whp. If you're off two, you might have 50whp, if it even starts.
09-13-2016, 07:20 PM
#14
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 128
Bumping this old thread
I agree with you to a point. I could have probably gone faster than 25, but I seriously shouldn't have to give a car 50% throttle to maintain that sort of speed.
The point is if you have the right timing, you should have over 200whp. If you're off 1 tooth, you might have 100whp. If you're off two, you might have 50whp, if it even starts.
The point is if you have the right timing, you should have over 200whp. If you're off 1 tooth, you might have 100whp. If you're off two, you might have 50whp, if it even starts.
Camshaft advance (on my car) is reading minus15 degrees at idle. Both banks. Is this what I should be seeing?
Thanks.
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