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Fluids and Lubricants Motor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.

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Old 04-13-2007, 06:12 PM   #201
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The non OEM gasket it crap. I ordered one from advance and it is crappy. Stay with the Nissan one..
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:16 PM   #202
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2001 Maxima Automatic Transmission oil

2001 Maxima GLE. I've ben reading all the threads about changing the automatic trasmission oil,and i have to say they've been very helpful. I'll change my oil next week, i'm droping the oil pan (my 2001 maxima has 64K), but was wandering if somone would give me some suggestions about what type, and brand of oil i should use?
Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:30 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knapp9
Check your owners manual for the fluid capacity. Oddly enought, both my '01 Maxima V6 and '01 Altima 4 cyl. use 10 quarts total. I am of the camp that believes any name brand Dextron III fluid is perfectly good. I've used Pennzoil ATF in both my Nissan cars for years. I wouldn't hesitate to use Castrol, Valvoline, Chevron, AAMCO, or any other readilty available D3 ATF either. I tried Mobil 1 ATF for awhile, but couldn't tell a bit of difference and decided not to waste the $$$. Many on this site swear by Amsoil ATF and I have no doubt is a very good synthetic fluid, but I do not use it personally even though I do use Amsoil motor oil in the Maxima.

Pick a drain/flush OCI...15K or 30K miles you're comfortable with, find a fluid brand you like, and sleep well at night. Periodic maintenance is the key to long tranny life. Other "finetunings" are nice, but not critical.

I was really looking, hoping, to move to Amsoil and yet all the qts needed to purge the old @ $9/qt gets costly. But THEN, today I called local dealer on Nissan D-matic...hold on to your pants at $7/qt! Why on this green earth would I pay that when only $2 more per qt I can get the top-rated Amsoil, or Mobil 1 synthetic at AutoZone for like $6/qt. Ripoff at the dealer for sure!!!! I mean, my whole thinking is to either use D-matic or go w/ synthetic, but at dealer prices $7/qt there is no savings to stay OEM so I will go synthetic or maybe even get some other brand you mentioned above in a standard D3 just to keep the fluid new and stay on top of changes...this is just rediculous....like you said, "I wanna sleep well at night."

Like the other guy said, though, I guess I will get OEM gaskets if you get junk at Advance...
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:49 PM   #204
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1) I used the cheap napa rubber gasket, and it works fine. no leaks. the trick is to re-apply thread sealant to the pan bolts, and be very careful how you tighten them -- do a criss-cross pattern, tightening a little at a time, going around a few times until they are just snug. do NOT over tighten.

2) you can use any cheap DexIII fluid you want. matic D is a waste. I used walmart supertech for a while and it was fine. I now run Amsoil and it feels the same. I get my ATF analyzed for wear, and the Amsoil does a great job, and the fluid really does stay clean/pink for a long time. you can get it for about $7.50/qt from Talkinghorse in the group buy forum

3) I'm originally from GR. if you ever need professional transmission work go to Oneill's transmission on 28th st. honest guys.
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Old 04-14-2007, 05:27 PM   #205
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sky jumper or anybody,

I just drained the ATF, just over 4.5qts. Put in same amt of Castrol synthetic blend ATF, but having difficulty getting a "solid" reading. I never have trouble w/ engine oil, so why does the trany appear so hard to read? I've really not been into reading trans fluid b4 so this is new to me and yet should be so easy. I had difficulty even before I drained it, and still difficult. Engine was hot and running in Park, can't even tell exactly where fluid is at? I want to know that I know, that I know it is correct level. What's the deal? It may take some time for it all to drain down from filling it via the fill tube, but man, this seems crazy, and it was kinda this way even before i changed the fluid. Are your cars hard to read, too? It's like the fluid is all over the end of the stick, not a cut/dry reading level..,

A good, local trans shop drained/filled it last time, so I can't imagine it being overfilled. Seems as if level is high, but can't even prove that it is cause no good start/stop point on the fluid.

Help me...??

Edit: I compared reading simplicity w/ my van, and that is plain as day to read. My guess is that my Max is overfilled and was never checked at tranny shop and they just put in what came out. How to easily get it out while running the car so I know how much is there as I take some out (assuming it's overfilled)??
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:28 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky jumper
MichMax:

1) I used the cheap napa rubber gasket, and it works fine. no leaks. the trick is to re-apply thread sealant to the pan bolts, and be very careful how you tighten them -- do a criss-cross pattern, tightening a little at a time, going around a few times until they are just snug. do NOT over tighten.

2) you can use any cheap DexIII fluid you want. matic D is a waste. I used walmart supertech for a while and it was fine. I now run Amsoil and it feels the same. I get my ATF analyzed for wear, and the Amsoil does a great job, and the fluid really does stay clean/pink for a long time. you can get it for about $7.50/qt from Talkinghorse in the group buy forum

3) I'm originally from GR. if you ever need professional transmission work go to Oneill's transmission on 28th st. honest guys.
Hey sky jumper where is that Talkinghorse group deal? I can't seem to find it.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:07 PM   #207
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Ok, just got done running around the block a few times and engine is hot, cooling fan comes on, and car's been running for like 20mins. So, finally got a good reading...just like I thought I should and just like reading the oil...got it just on top end of HOT section. Somebody OVERFILLED my tranny 'cause I had to go to AZ & buy a pump and suction out like a qt or so to get a good reading. Finally figured my problem wasn't me..some moron put in too much and level was like at the first bend on the stick. I thought it was just ATF drainage in the tube that caused it to look overfull but now I see I gotta check everything and assume NOTHING!!! ARGHH!!!!

A word to the wise. Unless you really know the level b4 changing fluid, don't just put in the same amt ya take out, which is what I did since I thought it was ok since it was at trans shop last yr & nothing been done on it since. They must have not checked the level and put in what they took out and who knows how long it was overfilled. I should have just put in 3qts or so and monitored level while car was running and then I wouldn't have had to buy a pump (or waste more ATF). Live & learn. I know that will NEVER happen to me again!!!!

Thanks to all on this .org for help since I have learned SO much on this website!

By the way, Castrol synth blend seems to shift better, but maybe its just placebo effect. Didn't get to change the pan gasket yet since trying to get all the old out and don't have the gasket yet!!
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:37 AM   #208
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I have one 93 Maxima SE. My transmission can not go to the highest gear when the speed goes upto 65MPH. It truns the engine to run 3500rpm. 75MPH, the engine goes to 4000rpm. The transmission won't upgear even the engine reaches 4500rpm. In lower gear, I got the simular problem. I need to pedal the engine to 4000rpm to let the transmission trun from the gear 1 to gear 2. I just flush the transmission and fill with the new transmission fluid. It does not help. So what is the problem? I am wondering the new Amsoil ATF fluid can solve the problem?
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Old 05-14-2007, 12:57 AM   #209
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1998 Nissan Maxima with 188KM's. Should I use synthetic ATF?

I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE with an auto tranny and 188,000 KMs. I don't think the ATF was ever changed ( bought it used). I'm gonna change the ATF, but wanted to know if its wise to go to synthetic or should I uses Dino? The reason I ask is because of the high mileage on the car and I don't think the ATF was ever changed?

Also I accidently broke one of the pan bolts when taking the pan off.. part of the bolt is still in the bolt hole in the tranny.. any ideas of taking it out? The bolts are completely rusted and will needed to be replaced. I think that bolts was over tightened.. as soon as I tried to remove it with a socket it brook then starting to drip ATF in that hole. You think I might have bent the Tranny pan?

Thanks in advance for everyone's help! This forum is the best!!!
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:48 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowGun
I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE with an auto tranny and 188,000 KMs. I don't think the ATF was ever changed ( bought it used). I'm gonna change the ATF, but wanted to know if its wise to go to synthetic or should I uses Dino? The reason I ask is because of the high mileage on the car and I don't think the ATF was ever changed?

Also I accidently broke one of the pan bolts when taking the pan off.. part of the bolt is still in the bolt hole in the tranny.. any ideas of taking it out? The bolts are completely rusted and will needed to be replaced. I think that bolts was over tightened.. as soon as I tried to remove it with a socket it brook then starting to drip ATF in that hole. You think I might have bent the Tranny pan?

Thanks in advance for everyone's help! This forum is the best!!!
Not an expert, but from what I have read, you should not flush a tranny if the oil has never been changed. I have read a lot of posts regarding people changing tranny oil after 100K and the tranny started slipping. If you really want to change the oil, perhaps you should start with a non flush change. See how that works..
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:51 PM   #211
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I screwed up

I spent all day trying to fix my 1998 Maxima SE Auto Trans. It started out wanted to change the ATF.. yes my car has 188,000KM but it looked like it was never changed (I'm not the original owner of the car). The drain bolt was rushed and could not become lose so I started to remove the pain....all the bolts had surface rust on them and GUESS WHAT.. when one of the bolts broke when I tried to remove it.. leave the thread part in the tranny. Well I managed to remove the rest of the bolts without breaking them. Then I bought a new tran pan since the old one was rusted.. a new gasket.. and a new screen.. I'm glad I read the post of the bolts being different size for the screen.. it helped me alot. So I put some permatex around the tranny to before apply the gasket and extra permatex around the the broken bolt. I then bolted the tran pan back in plance. GUESS WHAT... 5 of the bolts just kept on turning... I think the treads got striped or something. I then reapplied permatex to the bolts the keep on turning and will be waiting till tomorrow to add some ATF and see if it leaks. It probabley will leak.. but all this because I wanted to change my ATF after 7 years of the life of the car and 188,000 KM. I should have just left the car has is... I had no problems with the tranny except for the occasional shake between 2nd and 3rd gear.. but it was not that bad.

I'm soo stupid!!!

I spend $100.00 today in parts and made things worse then before..

Anyway want to buy a used maxima?
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:23 PM   #212
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Car won't shift into gear after ATF

GREAT... one more thing to add to my horible day.. see above post. So I haven't added any fulid since dropping the pan.. but I did start the car to check the current fluid level.. and then I moved the into all gears.. d, R, N, etc.. but guess what the car won't engaged. IF I put it in R or D the car won't move.. even if I give gas. The RPMs go up but car won't move. PLEASE tell me this is because I haven't added any fluid. I did chech the fluid level and it was on the tip of the dipstick.. I'm assuming not enough fluid.. remember I drop the pan and never put any fluid back in the car. Is this the reason my car is not engaging? If this isn't the case then I'm in BIG TROUBLE!!!
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:29 PM   #213
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Did you add the amt that came out while dropping the pan?

First add the amt that came out and only then start the car, you will fry the transmission if there is no much ATF.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:41 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowGun
GREAT... one more thing to add to my horible day.. see above post. So I haven't added any fulid since dropping the pan.. but I did start the car to check the current fluid level.. and then I moved the into all gears.. d, R, N, etc.. but guess what the car won't engaged. IF I put it in R or D the car won't move.. even if I give gas. The RPMs go up but car won't move. PLEASE tell me this is because I haven't added any fluid. I did chech the fluid level and it was on the tip of the dipstick.. I'm assuming not enough fluid.. remember I drop the pan and never put any fluid back in the car. Is this the reason my car is not engaging? If this isn't the case then I'm in BIG TROUBLE!!!
Did you read the reply above?
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:52 PM   #215
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um.. fill the trans thru the dipstick with aleast 2quarts since on average i think the pan hold 4 quarts. start it up and and add fluid as it goes. your tranny isn't moving because its slipping and damage has been done to the internals of your tranny. sorry to say but this is a really bad story of a tranny flush. simply because you broken/striped out everything and on top of that you didn't even flush out the fluid or anything for that matter you just took out 4quarts and expected your trans to work just fine? 4 out of the 10 quarts that a tranny holds max. thats like doing an oil change and putting 1 quart back in the car. it makes no sense but.

yea i understand you are scared its going to leak but i rather it leak then to damage the tranny.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:29 PM   #216
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Ok so what everyone is saying to add back the ATF that I drained from the Pan the car should start in gear. I only started the car for a few minutes and went through the gears.. when I saw it was engaging I turned the car off. So what your saying is if I put back the AT Fluid the car should engage again? What kind of damage could I have done by starting the car, running through the gears without an AT Fluid? Thanks everyone for your help!
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:31 PM   #217
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What are the signed of frying the tranning without any Fluid? Does it smoke? My car didn't smoke?
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:39 PM   #218
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Fluid starvation for a long period of time will fry the transmission. Add fresh ATF via the dip stick (not the one u drained, it defeats the purpose).

The amout (2/3/4 quarts) that was drained should be added via the dip stick before u start and run thro the gears.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:45 PM   #219
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Thank You for explaining this to me. I'm just hoping and prying that I didn't do any damage to the tranny. Also If fluid stars linking where the the broken bolt and the other stripped bolds are then do you have a suggestion on how to seal the leak?
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:38 PM   #220
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You probably won't have a leak if 3 bolts were not tightened, there are 20 odd bolts so if you got most of them in and tight, you should be good to add fluid and start the car.

If there is a leak you can deal with it later (which will be more likely seepage), first add the ATF and start the baby and check it is working just fine.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:52 PM   #221
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oh man this is a horrible story i feel bad for ShowGun, why would u ever start the car without refilling the tranny? u just drained it how is it supposed to go into gear with no oil ?

i dont know if u r a religious man, but i would pray to the maxima, or even the mighty NISSAN god himself that the tranny will be back to normal.

if its not, can i have some parts ? ( hehe just joking, let us know how it went after u refilled it)
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:04 AM   #222
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the car works now

ok I couldn't sleep last night thinking I broke my car and this morning I was at the parts counter at 8 and got 4 quarts of Nissan Matric D Auto Tranny Fluid. I poured 2 quarts in and the car works!!! It reversed, and engaged in drive and all other gears. I only drove it for less then 1 minute because I had to get to work. The real test will be to see if I did any damage running the car without fluid, although I think there might be some kind of valve or switch that won't let the tranny engage if there is no fluid.. I did see a resister and some wires when I took the screen out.

The question I have is how do I check the level.. it is so confusing in the owner manual and the fluid is all over the place on the dip stick.

Last, I hope none of the fluid is leaking from the bolts that are not tight.. otherwise that will be another set of problems.

I would like to thank everyone on this forum for helping me out!!! You guys are the best!!!
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:17 AM   #223
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One more question.. I bought a new tranny pan because my was rusted, but for the life of me I can't get the drain bolt loose... its stuck on there.. and this is a new pan. I tried a racket with a 19mm socket but the think won't move. Anyone else experience this problem? Do I need to a to a shop and have them use a impact gun to remove the bolt?
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:15 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowGun
One more question.. I bought a new tranny pan because my was rusted, but for the life of me I can't get the drain bolt loose... its stuck on there.. and this is a new pan. I tried a racket with a 19mm socket but the think won't move. Anyone else experience this problem? Do I need to a to a shop and have them use a impact gun to remove the bolt?
First did you set the rachet to anti clockwise mode. Then spray some PB blaster on the bolt and let it soak and then give it a shot. Checking fluid level, turn the car on, put it into N, then pull out the dip stick and it should be betwee L and H.
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:35 PM   #225
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Yes I set the rachet anti clockwise mode.. I'll try spraying some lub on it. I check the level while the car was in park.. I'll try N.. although I think it should be the same.
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Old 05-20-2007, 04:54 PM   #226
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Ok FINALLY YES!!! EVERYTHING WORKS!!!. The reason I took so long to post is I wanted to make sure everything works. Hopefully someone can learn from my experience. Here's what happenend.. see above post to get background.

I used the permatex gasket maker and that stuff really works.. no leaks nothing even from that bolth which broke off.

The fluid is not leaking either.

I've noticed that my tranny shutter a bit between 3rd and 4th... no the shutter has considerably been reduced.. Can't feel it and unless you are looking for it.

There is minor slippage, but I think that was there before all this happened.

Anyway... my question now is does anyone recommended using tranny addattives like may Lucs ATF Transmission additive? I probably won't be chaning my tranny fluid anytime soon... but maybe an additive to lower the fluid temp and any smooth out the shifts and the minor slippage?

Thank everyone on this forum.. it has been the best!!!
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Old 05-20-2007, 06:08 PM   #227
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Don't put the Lucas stuff into the tranny. Since you did a partial exchange via drain/fill, I would recommend doing this every 6 months another 2 times.

Remember you are very confused with toooo many questions on a simple drain/fill.

Do the drain/fill exercise with some good MV ATF (Castrol makes Import version, which I am presently on) or regular DexronIII another 2 times.

Don't monkey with the tranny too much if you are a novice. Drains/fills are sufficient.
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Old 05-20-2007, 06:31 PM   #228
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Thanks for the input. Now the only problem I have is the drain bolt is just too hard to get off and this is on a new tranny pan. I''m using a racket and socket and they thing just won't come off. I'm not sure it was welded or not. Can I take it to the garage and have the mechanic use an impact gun in reverse and get the bolt loose. YES it is that tight.
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:37 PM   #229
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Try using a breaker bar to loosen the nut. You can apply a lot more force the longer the lever.

I sometimes use some 1/2" or 3/4" diameter electrical pipe conduit over the ratchet handle, about 2' to 3' long and it can loosen ANYTHING than can be loosened.
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Old 05-24-2007, 08:28 AM   #230
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YES I got the drain bolt off... just needed to get a longer racket which did the trick.... now If I could only get the return line from the tranny off and I'll be able to do a full flush... I know that with 188K KM... its not recommended to do a flush... but I did a partial.. drain and fill... but I'l like to do a full flush if I can..
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:08 PM   #231
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With 188KM, it may best to be 'gentle' when servicing the A/T. By doing a drain and fill that is being gentle on the A/T.

Maybe try waiting another ~ 2K KM or so and then do another drain and fill.

Each time you are getting roughly 50% of all the fluid. So after the second change 75% of it will be done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowGun
YES I got the drain bolt off... just needed to get a longer racket which did the trick.... now If I could only get the return line from the tranny off and I'll be able to do a full flush... I know that with 188K KM... its not recommended to do a flush... but I did a partial.. drain and fill... but I'l like to do a full flush if I can..
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:20 AM   #232
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should you get an oil change when you get your ATF flushed and replaced?
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:25 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normkit108
should you get an oil change when you get your ATF flushed and replaced?

Those two systems are not connected, so they are on their own maintenance schedules...makes no difference!!
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:49 PM   #234
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Ok, so I do tranny flushes at work pretty much every day, and I have just a few things to say...

First: make sure you check your atf level WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Otherwise your reading will not be correct.

Second: If you are going to do a drain and fill, you will probably want to do it at least 2 or 3 times in a row, until it is looking extremely clean when you drain it. as for where to fill, fill with a funnel through the dipstick tube.

Third: Due to the nature of a drain and fill, you are only replacing the fluid in the pan which is generally less than 1/4 of the total atf (about 2-3 quarts at a time for those of you who were asking). because of this, a complete flush of the system (requiring a T-TEK machine) is much more effective, but harder to accomplish on your own.
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:37 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knapp9

Permatex #3 is probably a-ok. Put it clsoe to the base of the screws so it seals by the pan/gasket.
Is this the bolt sealer mentioned above??? Help me please...

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Sealant_a.htm
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:00 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumble
Ok, so I do tranny flushes at work pretty much every day, and I have just a few things to say...

First: make sure you check your atf level WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Otherwise your reading will not be correct.

Second: If you are going to do a drain and fill, you will probably want to do it at least 2 or 3 times in a row, until it is looking extremely clean when you drain it. as for where to fill, fill with a funnel through the dipstick tube.

Third: Due to the nature of a drain and fill, you are only replacing the fluid in the pan which is generally less than 1/4 of the total atf (about 2-3 quarts at a time for those of you who were asking). because of this, a complete flush of the system (requiring a T-TEK machine) is much more effective, but harder to accomplish on your own.
not in a maxima, a drain and fill drains abut 5 qts, which is half the fluid, so yes multiple drain and fills will almost accomplish a full flush, but do u really want to waist time and fluid ?

and those machines that perfor[ flushes have been knows to force tiny metal particles loose inside the tranny into places where they are not supposed to go. On my other car after completing the full flush with a machine at a shop, she started leaking the same week

i would only advise to drop the pan clean the magnets and refill, thats it
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:12 AM   #237
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k... at the begining of this thread people claims that 10L of ATF is all it needs...
but lets say
1.i drain the pan with 4.5L out... and put back 4.5L
2.i remove the return line and start the engine and wait for 2L out...
3.stop the engine and add back 2L
4.repeat 2-3 4 more times.
that will be total of 10L from the return line... + the initial 4.5L
will that come to a total of 15L?
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:22 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lalaMAX
k... at the begining of this thread people claims that 10L of ATF is all it needs...
but lets say
1.i drain the pan with 4.5L out... and put back 4.5L
2.i remove the return line and start the engine and wait for 2L out...
3.stop the engine and add back 2L
4.repeat 2-3 4 more times.
that will be total of 10L from the return line... + the initial 4.5L
will that come to a total of 15L?

Well then just repeat it 3 times snce 3x2 = 6 and 6+4 = 10. Aso dont yo remove the main line right from the tranny not the return line
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Old 06-30-2007, 04:03 PM   #239
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Nice thread indded, as old as it is.

My Max is a 95 with 105k and Im thinkin its been rolled back considering a heavy dig mark on the odometer rollers. I got a (bad) feelin this car been through some **** before I got it @95k. No clue if Atf was ever changed.

Anyway I had BIG shift shock between 1st and 2nd gears. Bad like you can hear it like if someone hit the car when it shifted. Minor shift shock between 2nd and 3rd. If i stepped on the gas The car wouldnt even leave 1st (@6000+rpm) most times unless i lifted my foot slightly. So I KNEW I had to try the atf change. But I was thinkin maybe i should do 2qts at a time like some mentioned considering the tranny wear or how u call it.

So I drained out 4 Qts. somewhere between real dark pink and black. tiny Metal pieces it it. I marked a 4 QT mark on a old 1gallon water jug and let that much pour out+ spillage. That **** was hot and a bit messy, but it worked out fine. I poured a little less 4 QTs of Mobil 1 DexIII back in to prevent overfill.

I drove around very calmly for the next hour after changing the oil as well. ****in shiftshock is almost gone. Im barely felt it anymore after about 15 stoplights. I am lovin this.

So my tranny aint goin crazy or anything because its the 1st time its been changed since preconception.

In about 6 months Ill drop the pan and do the entire flush.

cost:
2hrs of reading this thread.
4xMobil 1 atf@$7.99 = about $37.00
19" socket= $3.25

Appreciate it Fam.
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:40 PM   #240
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no problem, dark fluid is bad though.

i did a drain and fill at the dealer in november of last year and the fluid is still nice and pink as if its been poured in today (juts like it was before the change) i do want to drop the pan but i dont wanna play with any return lines, and duno where to get the thread sealant sky jumper is referring to, so i may just keep doing these drain and fills like once a year or so to preserve the tranny.

but those magnets must be getting filled with metal shavings by now (216.000 KM)
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:40 PM
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