You need a N/C (normally closed micro switch) similar to the nitrous WOT switches but they are N/O (normally open) They are available at applicance repair shops, I picked up 2 today. They are used in microwave, dishwashers etc.

You need to open the circuit at WOT vs closing it for nitrous.

 

Holy **it... I just went go get gas tonite and I was curious so i tried it just to see what would happen. When not on WOT it shifts a lil hard, but once u floor it theres virtually no gap between shifts..Car feels quicker too, maybe it's just in my head...To make things better, my dad has about 3 microwaves in the basement he picked up from garbage cans...dude, sweet

 

Thanks, you've provided a ton of usefull knowledge on the subject.. this last post came just in time as I almost ordered a nitrous WOT switch.. which wouldn't have done me much good apparently. Makes tons of sense when you think about it though.

 

I posted this on the 5th Gen Forum.

Ok, here is what I have been using. Zumble gave me the idea of just doing it WOT vs the manual switch I had been using. Originally we were using a WOT N/O (normally open) switch and then running through a relay to reverse to N/C (normally closed).

Its much simpler this way no relay is required. N/C switches are the opposite of the ones used for a nitrous WOT switch where you make a circuit, here we want to break the circuit on WOT.

All that is required is to run the two wires back from the switch and cut into either wire at the drop resistor and connect to each end.

For normal operation the switch is N/C (normally closed) so that the circuit is complete through the drop resisitor and trans acts as normal. When you hit WOT the circuit opens and effectively disconnects the resistor.

I used a small steel bracket I had and bolted to a manifold bolt just below the PCV valve.

These switches can be obtained at appliance supply stores, they are use in microwaves, dishwashers etc.

The can be purchased in 3 different configurations.

1. A regular N/O (normally open)
2. N/C (normally closed)
3. Combination N/O and N/C (there are 3 connectors vs 2 on the others so it can be used either way.

Mine just happens to be the combination one and I got it because it was given to me by a electric door technician.

 

this is the best info i have seen on this topic. thanks jime for the help , i had really been hoping fo some good answers about this...that set-up is truly genious...never would have thought of that. i'm gonna try this tomorrow.

 

I installed a switch next to the shifter, and i think it works better than the WOT switch, I had a WOT switch installed yesterday and from what I felt from driving around, it only engages for the gear that is after the gear you are in. For example, from a stop, you floor it, 1...2 feels the same but 2 - 3 feels different enough for you to notice...My guess is that the resistor needs to be disconnected before you put load on the engine. From a roll, you can switch it on before you floor it and it will work for the gear you downshift into. I dunno, I could be wrong, but using a regular switch feels much better IMO..anyone?

 

I think that if you experiment a little more the results will be the same. I have had both methods and have done many runs at the track both ways with the same results.

I mainly like the WOT better because its a no brainer. Sometimes I would forget the manual switch and of course I was rudely reminded when I did part throttle upshifts, its really annoying. There are enough things to think about and to turn on and off at the track, now its just one less.

I did have the wire come off the switch one day and I didn't notice too much on the 1-2 shift but the 2-3 is sooooo long, especially with spray that I think I could cook the transmission very easily without it.
Either way I still think its a great mod and the price is right. (Thanks again Ben)

If you notice on my pics I have heat shrink on the connections, that is there mainly to keep the connector from accidentally vibrating off. Make sure all connections are secure, soldering would probably be best.

 

Hey Jim, I was just wondering what you run NA? and also the mods u have thanx

 

14.6 @ 94 is the best so far.

Mods are listed here.

https://maxima.org/forums/west-coast/218852-north-denver-metro-area-good-tint-shops.html

 

Nice, thats an awsome time for an NA auto...what kind of weight reduction do you have to make it 2998lb w/ driver?

 

Lightweight battery, plastic seats (I do run with both fronts and rear in though), sound deadening removed, wheels and tires help quite a bit, front and rear bumper supports removed, thats all I remember at the moment.

 

Figured I might as well post my impressions now that I finally got a chance to do the wiring. It feels like the 1-2 shift is quite a bit harder.. unfortunatly I can't chirp second but I'll blame that on my wide tires (235/45/17) The 2-3 shift is most noticeable IMO, it really bangs into gear under WOT, where normally it'll take quite a long time. The car honestly does feel faster now. Thanks Jime.

 

i have a question for you Jim, i installed an illuminated switch so that when the light is on the tranny is is in normal mode, and flick it off the circuit is cut tranny shifts harder. now here's my question, when i have it it "normal mode" it takes forever to shift into the next gear...even worse than stock i noticed that the light on my switch actually dims when i press the gas. should i change it to an unlit switch? Is the resistance drop over the light in the switch causing it to screw with the tranny? any input would be great.

 

Yes, I think your switch is causing the resistance to change somehow in the normal mode. Most lighted switches use a separate power source for the light but it sounds like yours is somehow connected to the drop resistor circuit causing it to change the resistance somehow. It would be easy to check though just put a meter across and measure it should be 12 Ohms with it connected.

I would just switch to a standard switch or better yet the WOT switch.

Jim

 

thats what i was thinking too. you're using a switch from a microwave right? which switch was it, and how did you make the bracket?

thanks again Jim!

 

No sure exactly what it came out of, I got it used at an appliance shop for free. Just have to make sure its N/C (normally closed) which is the opposite to the nitrous and most of the other microswitches you see.

The bracket was just something I had laying around it came off of the engine somewhere when I took of the stock intake I think. Regardless not too hard to make one out of a piece of steel or aluminum, just a 90 deg bend and a couple of holes.

 

thanks Jim, i'll give that a try this weekend if i get a chance.

As always, thank you very much for your help

George