I've been told by a tech at my local track that if I move my battery to the trunk, technically the IHRA rules state that you need a kill switch then. Sounds to me like he's suggesting I need to put a kill switch in if I want to move my battery to the trunk and be allowed to race. Do any track goers have experience with this? I'm going to be really irritated if I drive 2 hours to the track and they tell me I can't race because I have no kill switch for my relocated battery. In addition is there anything else I need to watch out for with a relocated battery tech wise? They seem to be really picky about the subject. (Which I understand for several reasons)

BTW, I plan to be using an Optima battery.

-Eric

 

Up here my dad never needed a kill switch until he ran faster than 10.99. So unless your max is putting down 600whp, I think you're okay.

 

I bet it depends on the track. When I pull up in my I30 I usually don't even have to pop the hood. The only place that ever did a real tech-in was Rt 66 in Joliet. Byron dragway never even has me open the hood or get out of the car.

 

At Firebird here in Phoenix, if your battery is not in the engine bay and you do not have a kill switch in the rear you do not run.

 

Yeah, Kinda what I thought. I don't remember if GLD looks too close or not, but WIR uses a checklist and one of things on it is battery stuff. Moving the battery may cause more problems than it's worth. I have to worry about AutoX too.

Anyone got any info on how I can add a kill switch easily and cheaply. I saw one on Summit, but it was like almost 80 bucks, ouch! Doesn't a kill switch have to be accessible outside of the car? I need to do some research on this I guess... Thanks for the replies guys.

 

from NHRA rulebook:

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters. "

To meet the requirements, the disconnect switch must stop all electrical activity and kill the engine. Since there are two sources of electrical power in the car (battery and alternator), the switch must disconnect both. This will require running the alternator's output back to the disconnect switch to the same side as the battery's positive terminal.


capitol raceway by me doesn't usually check for test and tunes, but almost any sanctioned track will check during actual events.

 

You have to drill a hole in the rear of the car so they can see the switch. Not something I'd like to do on mine.

 

Good Lord! I'm not doing all that. Guess I won't be going to the track anymore if I relocate the battery.

 

haha, yeah its alot of crap. if you're just going to test and tunes i'm sure you'll most likely be fine. its when you compete in events that they usually require maximum rulebook compliance.

 

You'll be fine at GLD.

 

At my track (Kansas City International Raceway), if the battery is in the trunk, you've got to have a kill switch regardless if it's T-N-T night or competitive racing. Why not call the track and see what they say?

I've got a friend with a Contour SVT with nitrous and he has the battery in the back and an outside kill switch. He simply bought an extra taillight, drilled a hole, and fixed the switch to the smoked tailight. On non-track (autocross/drag) days he simply unwires the switch so that no one will screw with the car when he's out and about in the city.

 

i had the same thing happen to me the guy let me run anyway but said some of the other inspectors would have sent me home

but i opened my hood like every one else but im not going to this next time and see if they say anything i bet the dont since my car looks 100% stock on the outside

but if i end up doing it im going to do it like this hidden

 

That is nicceee! Fxcking brilliant I tell ya.

 

Yeah, that's what I did. Of course they give me the usual, we follow all the rules routine. I'm not so worried about GLD as WIR, where I do most of my racing. That switch behind the plate deal is pretty cool. I was thinking about rigging up something I would hook up for track use, and disconnect for normal use. I'm not so uptight about needing a switch as I first was, but now I'm just trying to find a switch that doesn't cost me 80 bucks.

 

i got my switch off ebay for about 15$

 

I see that the rulebook says "if the battery is relocated" but in practice, are they saying you need a switch because the battery is actually relocated, or just simply because it's in the trunk? Because some cars come with the battery in the trunk stock... BMW 3 series for example. I'll be damned if I would put a kill switch on my brand new bimmer just because someone is interpreting the rules wrong.

Also begs this question, what is the logic behind the relocation of a battery necessitating a kill switch in the first place.

 

I imagine the kill switch is intended to be a safety device in case of fire. The track people want to be able to cut power and inturn fuel as easily and quickly as possible. Its pretty rare the the rear of the car gets really messed up. The sides and front usually take the damage of collsions or fire. I guess the logic is that if you have a relocated battery you have some pretty hardcore speed stuff.

 

I do have some pretty hardcore speed stuff

Think I could mount it below the bumper on a bracket? I don't mind running wires, but rather not be drilling any holes in the body. Then I could rig something up and if they hassle me, throw it on quick.

 

From what I gather, it means relocated from factory location. People are so unfamiliar with imports up here, I could probably just tell them "Yeah, these come with the battery in back" I'd like to know too, why relocating requires this feature. I can understand, tie down, ventilation, and wiring rules, but the kill switch is kinda a PITA.

 

in my opinion i think the rule is retarted because like stated alot of cars come with batterys in the trunk stock and they dont have to have a switch so why do we

i think it should be a time thing like every car under 11.99 WITH the battery relocated needs a switch although "hopefully" even that would still require a few of us to do it

 

But most of the time, if someone makes the effort to relocate that battery its because of some nice power adders that need room. A Bimmer with the bat in the trunk doesn't have that same situation.

 

your right but even with the power adders the car will still most likly be slow. ive seen plenty of turbo and blown hondas that still run 14s and theres really no piont for a cutoff switch because there not even going over 100mph so theres very little chance for a wreck

 

But with those power adders there are many more places for fuel or oil to leak out and catch on fire.

 

If you get in a wreck at the track chances are the front end of your car is going to be messed up, and if your battery is in the front as it should be, it would probably be impossible to get to. If anything you should need a kill switch if your battery is in the FRONT. In the back it will likely still be perfectly accessible in case of a wreck, which is why it makes no sense at all.

 

That's my thinking as well. I think I can come up with something. Suppose I'll put all the work into it and no one will ever check.