sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I'm running the I35 for the first time this friday down here in south florida.. so I'm figuring my times will be pretty shabby with a track that is known for its poor track prep as well as 85 degree average temps.

Basically I am gonna see how fast I can get this car to run by doing as many free mods as possible.

This is what I've thought of so far

Weight reduction
removing the...
-spare/jack
-floor mats
- front and rear seat
- the center section of my SFCs

I'm looking for more easy weight reduction ideas.

I've already done the GAB mod with K@N
and I'm thinking of doing the Drop resistor mod depending on how hard it is and how reversible it is.

What should I set my illuminas to? (I am guessing soft up front and full stiff out back)

I have eibach springs and toyo proxe 4 tires (what pressure should I set them to, I am guessing around 25psi up front and like 40+ out back)

Another idea I've thought of is using the big zip ties you get from home depot on the front springs, which I've heard helps your 60' but I dont know how to do it anyone know of a guide on here on how to do it. do you just bind the 2 closest coils together? How many of the zip ties do you use ect? A link to a write up would be really helpful.



What do you guys think I should shoot for in terms of times and trap speed?

Hoooper

a really easy way to do the drop resistor mod is to disconnect it. theres a resistor on the driver shock tower, its really obvious. if you unplug it youve done the same thing, then when youre done racing plug it back in and its back to normal

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

If this is true than thats exactly the sort of mod I'm looking for (it has to be somewhat quickly reversible because the drive to moroso is around 2 hours there and back) . The only thing is that I dont have a tranny cooler so I hope its not a big deal if I only use it to make a few runs and then reconnect it when I drive home.


Btw any info on the wear and tear this puts on the tranny? I am guessing after going to the track I'll just drain the tranny fluid and put 3 (or so) fresh quarts in.

Hoooper

that sounds pretty extreme, in theory it is less wear on the trans since it shifts fast, therefore less clutching is done. as soon as you reconnect the wires it will be back to normal, so dont worry about the drive home

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You may also see a MIL, but once it is set back to normal, you can go to AutoZone and have it reset if you do not have an OBDII scanner on hand.

Make sure and only d/c it (DR) when going WOT because you do NOT want to have it shifting like that when not WOT.



I'm guessing you're times wont differ much from any other 5,5g Maximas since the I35 should weigh a teency weency bit more so, in the end, all the WR will make it ~ even to a stock 5.5g.

But, 1/4 mile speculation is one of the most inaccurate EVER.

It will come down to atmospheric conditions, driver, powerband, gear ratios, & weight.

2 of those are not ever the same twice, the other 3 are more predictable. Whereas one of the last 3 also relies to some degree of one of the first 2 listed items.

AsthmaMax11

iTrader: (3)

I want to solve this riddle....

So the Driver and Atmospheric Conditions are never the same. Because the driver is always improving and the Atmosperic Conditions are ever changing?

And the weight relies on the driver because the driver could lose weight of off his body?

I have solved NMEX's riddle!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

.

Most people have the capability to control/maintain their own weight.

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

i cant gain weight even if i wanted to..but all of my 107lbs gives me an unfair advantage over others

Any tips i can give you would be:

-let the car sit for atleast 20 minutes between runs, you dont want the car to heatsoak for the next run.

-you can try manually shifting it, some people have better times doing it that way, some have better times letting it do the work itself.

-practice launching, you may be able to powerbrake it a bit try to minimize wheel spin(obviously lol).

-most of all have fun, i know everytime i go to the track whether i run a 15 or a 11 i always have fun. Dont be surprised if your times suck, i know the first time i went my times were awful, but practice makes perfect. FYI my first run in my 98 5mt with i/y i ran a 15.9 with a 2.7 60ft..after seeing hondas doing 6000rpm clutch drops i thought id try..at 4000rpm lol. after 4 runs i ran a 14.55@94.6, then a month later a 14.41@95.X

bring a long sleeve shirt to, i know some tracks wont let you run if you dont have one. and wait for directions from the director guy, he will tell you when to line up and etc. i made the mistake of lighting up the tires before he told me to the first time (i was in a gutted 81 camaro drag car).

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Pants, as well, for that matter. Most tracks won't allow shorts.

leeI35

Sciff5 -

Did you make it to the track? I am curious to see what you ran.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

we had to put it off till this upcoming fri (and I prob wont be able to make it then either) and next weekend I am supposed to work on pulling the heads off my buddies 350z (which has been a nightmare btw) and I have to work with my other buddy on reinstalling the heads on his 5.0 stang cause he didnt use the right thread sealer. So we have a few nasty cars that are down right now and we need to do some work under the hood before we plan another trip to the track


You guys would appreciate the 350z though... its got quite a bit of money under the hood..

Basically every NA bolton you could do to the thing this guy has done..

Plenum, intake, headers, catback, pullies, JWT cams, short throw shifter, clutch, flywheel, and I know there is stuff I'm forgetting.. but it should be close to 300 to the wheels NA and then hes throwing a 50 shot on top of it so I am excited to get this car rolling again.

As for going to the track I'm still debating whether or not to do the DR mod.... I can tell I am losing a lot of time with these super soft shift, but I dont want to beat the **** out of my tranny.. I took a few seconds and looked around the airbox but didnt see the resistor on the shock tower. I am gonna have to look again during the day time.

Other than that I am 99.9% sure I am going to do the weight reduction and zip tie the front springs.

After talking with a few friends I've also been playing with the idea of doing a ghetto CAI... because although the GAB mod was great at first the car does seem more sluggish now and the fact that its pulling hot air from under the hood would be a good reason for that. Also I found that the intake on the 350z we are working on looks like it would fit almost perfectly on my car....so there may be a little experimintation goin on while the 350z is down.

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

look on the drivers side strut tower, if you are facing the engine it should be mounted right on the strut tower, were the bleeder is for the master cylinder on 4th gens. it has a little metal shield over it.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Whoever said you would be beating the p*ss out of the tranny with the DR mod? There is less wear & heat, so therefore it's actually BETTER for the tranny, don't make me put it in huge neon green text

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I hear what you're sayin... I know the whole argument behind the VB mod but after talking to the guys at NRH transmissions they said that firmer shifts are good for the tranny up to a point... after that it starts to shift so hard and create so much shock load it is actually bad for the tranny... and the DR mod makes the tranny shift as hard as it absolutly can so I am guessing its not that good for the tranny.

but I'm just guessing here

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

Why are you wasting time with the I35 when you have a SBC RX7 project car?

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

LS1 Rx7 ...hehe

And yeah thats basically why I havent wasted much time with the I35 lately but everyone is going to the track so I wanted to see what the "I" would run.

The only reason I am not working on the LS1 rx7 is because right now I am getting the 3500-4k for the engine/tranny complete pull out. Once I have that I'll have pretty much a complete car minus a fuel pump, FPR, motor mounts, a battery, and an exhaust.

That car with just headers and weight reduction should run around 12.00 (Eventually it'll be h/c/No2)

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

DR mod is only harmful at NON WOT shifts, so my advice would be to just leave the car in 1 while you are at the track and have the DR disconnected so your transmission wont shift

Im gonna try to do the DR mod next time i go to the track but when i normally go i can tell that my times are better when i "bump shift" my auto


Oh yeah and one more thing i forgot to add, if you are gonna dissconect the DR, do it after you put the car into 1st, the car will make a hard shift into reverse, then into drive, so if you can just get a buddy to disconnect it for you

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

^^

Do you mean run at the track in 1st?

He'll trap @ like 40 MPH

leeI35

Hey hey that was mean

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

Nooo like as in when he's in line and driving around in the parking lot and etc... not when hes actually racing

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I was planning on disconnecting it when the car is off... but are you guys sugessting I disconnect it when the car is on?

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

Yes, b/c its not good for the trans to shift at pressure unless you are not at WOT, i tried it from park to reverse and my car shifted really hard and another hard shift from reverse to drive so thats why i reccomend you to do it after the car is in drive. Or you could just wire it up to a switch, pretty simple

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I'm gonna be headed to the track tonight given it doesnt rain. I'm trying to see what my car will run with basically all the free mods done to it so far this is what I've done

Semi stripped the interior
took out the floor mats, the front and rear seats, the spare and jack in the back and took of the bolted in section of my SFCs.

I've pumped the rear tires up to around 48psi and the front tires I've put at around 25psi
I have toyo proxes 4 so I'm wondering what PSI I should run them at, at the track

I've set my Illuminas to full stiff all the way around

I've zip tied both my front springs to keep them compressed

I am about to do the throttle body coolant bypass mod but there are 3 rubber lines that connect aroud the tb. 2 (one right on top of the other) in the front and one behind the tb (between the tb and the firewall) I think 2 of them are coolant lines and 1 could be the EGR valve but I dont know which is which? I dont really have time to take all the lines off to figure out which is which cause I have class right now. Please help.

Also I know how do to the Drop resistor mod but I am still unsure about doing it.... It deff makes me nervous considering my tranny has always been a bit quirky.


Let me know guys and also let me know if you know any more tips/tricks

Thanks

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

So I went to the new 1/8th mile track that just opened up a week ago called countyline dragway.. Its basically an old landing strip thats been converted to an 1/8th mile strip to cut down on street racing in the area

There is no seating at this track.. no lights at the end (just an orange cone to mark the end of the track) you cant drive around the waterbox so everyone had to roll all 4 tires through the water.. VHT was rarely being sprayed. So every run my front tires were wet going down the track and so much water had been pulled onto the track that the first 60ft was wet, to the point where on my last run I tried to just roll into the throttle, I got the car rolling and then got on the gas and the tires started spinning hard... I have never been able to do that on even a normal dry street. The track was in real poor condition. I didnt see anyone AT ALL cut better than a 2.0 60'. The best 60' in our group was a from a 400whp c6 vette with 345 width michelin PS1's. His best 60' was 2.17. My buddies foxbody putting out 255whp and 300+wtq with some 245 width summer tires out back could only manage 2.37. And my best 60' wasnt bad at all given the conditions. I pulled a 2.39 and I was pullin some of the faster 60's of any FWD car there. THe only FWD car that I saw pull a better 60' was a 400whp+ eclipse on et streets.

My outside temp guage in the car was showing 86 degrees and humidity was high as the day ended early due to rain.

Anyway here are my times (btw cutting a .5 reaction time is considered perfect)

ME (I won)
Reaction Time: .585
60': 2.510
Trap MPH: 76.4
Elapsed Time: 9.691

VS

LT1 Trans AM
Reaction Time: .792
60': 2.876
Trap MPH: 77.3
Elapsed Time: 10.224

ME (I won LoL the corvette launched in reverse and I got it on video I'll post the vid soon)
Reaction Time: .864
60': 2.448
Trap MPH: 76.1
Elapsed Time: 9.607

VS

Corvette C3 (deff not stock launched backwards and became the laughing stock of the entire track)
Reaction Time: 1.658
60': 4.138
Trap MPH: 78.6
Elapsed Time: 11.345


ME ( I won)
Reaction Time: .629
60': 2.391
Trap MPH: 76.4
Elapsed Time: 9.541

VS

97 528 BMW (Kid named Cary in our car club, its the silver BMW I run in the vid)
Reaction Time: .612
60': 2.677
Trap MPH: 66.8
Elapsed Time: 10.950

ME (I won)
Reaction Time: .766
60': 2.425
Trap MPH: 74.7
Elapsed Time: 9.815

VS

Mustang GT (headers/x-pipe and he was running ET streets)
Reaction Time: 1.616
60': 2.224
Trap MPH: 71.4
Elapsed Time: 9.420



ME ( I lost)
Reaction Time: .962
60': 2.463
Trap MPH: 74.6
Elapsed Time: 9.863

VS

New Dodge Charger RT w exhaust and Drag radials
Reaction Time: .777
60': 2.406
Trap MPH: 76
Elapsed Time: 9.725


ME ( I lost)
Reaction Time: .725
60': 2.395
Trap MPH: 75.7
Elapsed Time: 9.621

VS

Stock (sounding) LS2 GTO 6sp
Reaction Time: .743
60': 2.505
Trap MPH: 79.5
Elapsed Time: 9.555

ME ( I lost )
Reaction Time: .905
60': 2.420
Trap MPH: 74.7
Elapsed Time: 9.796

VS

Same 95 mustang gt with headers / x-pipe and Et streets
Reaction Time: .874
60': 2.260
Trap MPH: 72.0
Elapsed Time: 9.702

ME ( I lost )
Reaction Time: .593
60': 2.463
Trap MPH: 76
Elapsed Time: 9.735

VS

89 Mustang GT Foxbody ( This is my buddy chris's car its the red foxbody you see me racing in the vid. We only got to run once and I am pissed I lost because I was nipping at his heels all day. Only around a tenth off his best 60' and I was trapping only around 1mph slower than he was and hes pushing 250+whp and 300+wtq)

Reaction Time: .6
60': 2.469
Trap MPH: 77.5
Elapsed Time: 9.518

I think I did very well.. after beating the C3 corvette and the trans am and basically bein within a fender of both the charger and the GTO I was starting to get several cheers from the crowd when I was on the return lane, I guess they didnt know the I35 was packin a VQ35.

Vids to come very soon.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

vid

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/a...ca016f1db1.htm

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

What the hell happened at about 1:40 into the video?

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Well thats my buddies foxbody mustang that I lost to by about 3/4s of a car.

But bad cameramen plagued the entire video lol... thats what happens when you have a woman filming

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

lol nah... did you cross into the mustang's lane? 'cause that's exactly the way it looks on this video.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

The race was already long over. I was just swinging out wide behind the mustang so I could make the turn for the return lane

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

BTW anyone have any comments on my times? I dont know if they are fast avg or slow. I couldent get traction all day..

Hoooper

those numbers dont mean much since you didnt have traction, you could even tell in the video that the tires were spinning a lot. for reference, i ran 9.23 @77 and that was a 14.34s pass, closer to your time i ran a 9.505 @ 75 stock and that was a 14.71s pass. just so you know where youre at. however, those were both with 2.2 60's and your best is a mid 2.3 and most are 2.4's. theres a lot of room for improvement and if you just get to a better track youll see better times, probly much better