a video from the track
10-31-2010, 10:42 AM
#1
a video from the track
My friend shot this from the stands. My car runs at 2:41 seconds in, against a mustang. My best run of the day was a 13.4, highest trap was 110mph, 60ft times were all 2.5X. Unfortunately I usually get bad wheel spin and i was having some missfiring on the top end.
http://s663.photobucket.com/albums/u...SpeedwayHD.mp4
http://s663.photobucket.com/albums/u...SpeedwayHD.mp4
11-06-2010, 07:48 AM
#15
I'm on BFG drag radials now and I've had better 60fts on my street tires. I think I need to avoid the water box until I get LSD because im probably burning one tire and the other one stays wet. then the wet one spins when i launch. Or maybe i should just get a full slick
11-06-2010, 08:27 AM
#16
yeah mevi is in the works. rpm switch arrived yesterday.
I'm on BFG drag radials now and I've had better 60fts on my street tires. I think I need to avoid the water box until I get LSD because im probably burning one tire and the other one stays wet. then the wet one spins when i launch. Or maybe i should just get a full slick
I'm on BFG drag radials now and I've had better 60fts on my street tires. I think I need to avoid the water box until I get LSD because im probably burning one tire and the other one stays wet. then the wet one spins when i launch. Or maybe i should just get a full slick
11-06-2010, 09:22 AM
#17
Maybe I will go that rout next year, even though I just bought the BFGs and only ran them once. Can I run a tube tire on my millenia wheels? do I need to put screws in the bead? I see you are getting a 1.8 60ft, so you must know how to make traction. If I could knock my 60ft down to 1.8, id be in the 12s
Last edited by bryan163; 11-06-2010 at 09:32 AM.
11-06-2010, 09:41 AM
#18
Maybe I will go that rout next year, even though I just bought the BFGs and only ran them once. Can I run a tube tire on my millenia wheels? do I need to put screws in the bead? I see you are getting a 1.8 60ft, so you must know how to make traction. If I could knock my 60ft down to 1.8, id be in the 12s
You want a bias ply tire.
You could fit some 23x7.5-15 M&H slicks on the millenia wheels.
That should help traction immensely.
11-06-2010, 09:51 AM
#19
you don't need to run tubes at all. all they do is make sure your tires don't deflate in the days/weeks between trips to the drag strip. if you air them up before you go to the track every time you are fine. tubes don't have anything to do with whether or not you need screws, and you won't need screws. you won't be running the pressure low enough to need screws.
turning your steering wheel back and forth in the burnout box generally can get both tires spinning if you are having problems with spinning just one tire.
turning your steering wheel back and forth in the burnout box generally can get both tires spinning if you are having problems with spinning just one tire.
11-06-2010, 10:08 AM
#20
you don't need to run tubes at all. all they do is make sure your tires don't deflate in the days/weeks between trips to the drag strip. if you air them up before you go to the track every time you are fine. tubes don't have anything to do with whether or not you need screws, and you won't need screws. you won't be running the pressure low enough to need screws.
turning your steering wheel back and forth in the burnout box generally can get both tires spinning if you are having problems with spinning just one tire.
turning your steering wheel back and forth in the burnout box generally can get both tires spinning if you are having problems with spinning just one tire.
so maybe the burnout wasnt the issue. I wish I had more than 3 runs to refine my launch. I think I was running around 30psi on the run in the video. after that i dropped it to 25psi. Tried to hold the RPMs around 2500 for the launch, but its hard to say what I launched at because i was too busy looking at the tree.
I'd get a lot more practice if there was a track in my state.
Last edited by bryan163; 11-06-2010 at 10:11 AM.
11-06-2010, 10:12 AM
#21
Ok, Glad to here I dont need tubes. I did try moving the wheel back and forth.
so maybe the burnout wasnt the issue. I wish I had more than 3 runs to refine my launch. I think I was running around 30psi on the run in the video. after that i dropped it to 25psi. Tried to hold the RPMs around 2500 for the launch, but its hard to say what I launched at because i was too busy looking at the tree.
so maybe the burnout wasnt the issue. I wish I had more than 3 runs to refine my launch. I think I was running around 30psi on the run in the video. after that i dropped it to 25psi. Tried to hold the RPMs around 2500 for the launch, but its hard to say what I launched at because i was too busy looking at the tree.
25psi is wayyyyy to high. Try like 14-18psi for the radials. I run my ET Streets at 12psi.
Don't worry about watching the tree to much. Reaction time doesn't factor into your time.
11-06-2010, 10:17 AM
#22
don't worry about the tree, your time doesn't start till you cross the beams
also 30psi is too high for street tires let only dr's at the track, I would start at 20psi next time you hit the track traction should be alot better
also those dr's don't need alot of heat and if you get them too hot they will get slippery
edit: lol ^ we must have been typing at the sametime
also 30psi is too high for street tires let only dr's at the track, I would start at 20psi next time you hit the track traction should be alot better
also those dr's don't need alot of heat and if you get them too hot they will get slippery
edit: lol ^ we must have been typing at the sametime
11-06-2010, 10:21 AM
#25
I was lowering pressure a little each run, but sounds like a was way off. I figured the radials were so sticky that traction wouldnt be an issue for car. Especially on a treated track. I was surprised to find the track felt more slippery than the street.
11-06-2010, 10:27 AM
#27
Not gonna lie, drag radials suck on a fwd car. You can make them work ok, but you're leaving a lot on the table.
11-06-2010, 10:38 AM
#28
You will be sacrificing your contact patch with the smaller width wheel. A 15x7 or a 15x8 wheel would work really well with that tire.
11-06-2010, 10:44 AM
#29
Ok so slicks are on my list for next season. Also an LSD transmission in some form weather it be stock or aftermarket diff. Has anyone seen this before? someone i know has one and he says it works well, but he doesnt track his car and his HP is closer to stock. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33731
11-06-2010, 10:49 AM
#30
I think like sawblades are 16lbs, I30t bbs rims are like 13.5lbs
when I spoke with the guy a m/h he said the mazda wheels would be pushing it on a 8inch tire but a 6.5inch rim would be fine since I am only going to run between 10-15psi. He said the weight of the car + low psi will flatten the tire
when I spoke with the guy a m/h he said the mazda wheels would be pushing it on a 8inch tire but a 6.5inch rim would be fine since I am only going to run between 10-15psi. He said the weight of the car + low psi will flatten the tire
11-06-2010, 11:35 AM
#32
Ok so slicks are on my list for next season. Also an LSD transmission in some form weather it be stock or aftermarket diff. Has anyone seen this before? someone i know has one and he says it works well, but he doesnt track his car and his HP is closer to stock. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33731
I'd rather weld my diff which is what I plan to do if I don't find a lsd tranny by the summer
11-06-2010, 11:49 AM
#33
http://www.phantomgrip.com/component/content/article/10
I have heard of people using these before.
11-06-2010, 12:36 PM
#34
Found this on their website on how it works.
http://www.phantomgrip.com/component/content/article/10
I have heard of people using these before.
http://www.phantomgrip.com/component/content/article/10
I have heard of people using these before.
I would buy this over welding my diff, man learn something new everyday
wish I had the money to get it right now while my car is all apart
11-06-2010, 04:31 PM
#35
11-07-2010, 06:05 AM
#36
Im guessing it must put some wear on the spider gears, but my transmissions aren't likely to live long enough for that to matter anyway. I'm gonna buy it this winter. I will make sure to do a write up on the install. It sucks that the racing season is over here in the northeast, but at least I can get all these projects done.
11-18-2010, 05:16 PM
#39
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I am not sure that I agree with this statement. My times actually improved changing to drag radials from slicks because my '60 foots remained the same while feeling more stable and getting higher traps. Maybe everybody doesn't have this experience, but I pulled low 1.8 '60 foots on my drag radials within my first 4 runs ever using them.
11-18-2010, 05:59 PM
#40
I am not sure that I agree with this statement. My times actually improved changing to drag radials from slicks because my '60 foots remained the same while feeling more stable and getting higher traps. Maybe everybody doesn't have this experience, but I pulled low 1.8 '60 foots on my drag radials within my first 4 runs ever using them.
I could be wrong, but there is a reason all of the fast fwd drag cars run slicks. Radials just don't work as well.