Analyze this please, Guru's
#1
Analyze this please, Guru's
DA was 2055. 94.12%
Reaction .6778
60' 2.3622
330' 6.3993
594' 9.1030
1/8ET 9.7101
1/8MPH 74.12
3.5 swap
stock 3.0 headers
SSIM+ PFTB
Budget Y
Stock 3.0 ecu with VAFC-2 tuned to ~13.0-13.3 afr
Exhaust unbolted behind the stock cat (bolts too rusty on front)
350z HR cams and pistons with HR head gasket and ARP rod bolts
short ram intake with Spectra cone filter.
215 55 16 firestone Firehawk GT tires on stock SE wheels
Bad struts in the rear for sure and possibly the front.
Tein S-techs all around.
No weight reduction. Full SE leather/sunroof trim.
No codes besides 3.5 swap codes.
Stock O2's reading back lean at idle but wideband says 14.7 to 15.7 with a quick flash to full lean every 15-30 secs (I'm guessing from loping idle).
I ran a 10.3 with 3 additional people in the car at 66.35 mph with the exhaust bolted back up. Stockish rebent piping with a shop muffler, Most restrictive exhaust ive ever seen.
Is the retarded timing and no headers really hurting my trap this bad? Other similar cars are in the mid 8's reguardless of 60' time.
Reaction .6778
60' 2.3622
330' 6.3993
594' 9.1030
1/8ET 9.7101
1/8MPH 74.12
3.5 swap
stock 3.0 headers
SSIM+ PFTB
Budget Y
Stock 3.0 ecu with VAFC-2 tuned to ~13.0-13.3 afr
Exhaust unbolted behind the stock cat (bolts too rusty on front)
350z HR cams and pistons with HR head gasket and ARP rod bolts
short ram intake with Spectra cone filter.
215 55 16 firestone Firehawk GT tires on stock SE wheels
Bad struts in the rear for sure and possibly the front.
Tein S-techs all around.
No weight reduction. Full SE leather/sunroof trim.
No codes besides 3.5 swap codes.
Stock O2's reading back lean at idle but wideband says 14.7 to 15.7 with a quick flash to full lean every 15-30 secs (I'm guessing from loping idle).
I ran a 10.3 with 3 additional people in the car at 66.35 mph with the exhaust bolted back up. Stockish rebent piping with a shop muffler, Most restrictive exhaust ive ever seen.
Is the retarded timing and no headers really hurting my trap this bad? Other similar cars are in the mid 8's reguardless of 60' time.
Last edited by skweaky; 09-28-2011 at 04:48 PM.
#2
Wow!!! 9.7 With a 3.5 swap?? Thats stock 3.0 times right there! Lol i ran a 9.2 with my 3.5 with a 2.3 60ft. When i had my 4gen bone stock i ran a 9.8 with a 2.3 60ft. There is something really wrong here.
#4
well I ran 9.7's with my old motor and non vlsd trans and slipping clutch but it felt slower then. I guess i need to check timing and make sure its not pulling any from knock or something. I cant think of anything else that would hurt it so much.
#13
#14
I just bolted my knock sensor to the chassis but I havnt been able to open it up and see how it feels yet. But even if its been pulling 5 or 10 degrees from a sensiticve knock sensor that's only 10 to 20 hp. I think there's more hiding. And I checked codes just now. All evap and egr/map. I did have a saved code from a disconected intake pipe but there's nothing hindering performance there.
What other littlew stuff can I troublshoot that would cause anywhere from 10 to 20 hp to be missing?
What other littlew stuff can I troublshoot that would cause anywhere from 10 to 20 hp to be missing?
#17
And since when does the Z33 have 10.6:1 CR? Or did you acheive this through the HR head gaskets. No, not that either.
Cam Specs:Engine: VQ35DE (2)
Model Years: 2002-2005 (Maxima, and a slew of others)
CVTC: Intake
Intake__Lift: 9.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 9.5mm
Intake__Duration: 238º
Exhaust_Duration: 240º
Intake_Opens: 6º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 64º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 52º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 8º ATDC
Overlap: 2º
-------------------------------------
Engine: VQ35DE (3)
Model Years: 2005 (Rev-up version)
CVTC: Intake and Exhaust
Intake__Lift: 10.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 10.5mm
Intake__Duration: 248º
Exhaust_Duration: 248º
Intake_Opens: 2º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 70º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 70º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 2º BTDC
Overlap: -4º
#18
Does any of that pertain to what this thread is about?
I was fairly certain the rwd vq35de got higher compression pistons and a taller cam. I know for a fact the g35 vq cams have more durration that the z cams of the same year.
I was fairly certain the rwd vq35de got higher compression pistons and a taller cam. I know for a fact the g35 vq cams have more durration that the z cams of the same year.
#19
Not according to the FSM's.
The only cars that got the "hotter" cams were the rev-ups and 05 G-coupes, CR is the same.
But, this thread was essentially DOA since you really have no quantitative data aside from your ET, but no IGN timing data, etc to go by.
Maybe try seeing what the correction is using a DA correction factor.
The only cars that got the "hotter" cams were the rev-ups and 05 G-coupes, CR is the same.
But, this thread was essentially DOA since you really have no quantitative data aside from your ET, but no IGN timing data, etc to go by.
Maybe try seeing what the correction is using a DA correction factor.
#21
#22
Future plans for the z32 and it was as cheap as a replacement 4th gen.
Just talked to the guy that built the motor and its all HOUR parts. Pistons(shaved). Gasket. And cams. Motor made great power in the other car so just trying to find out what's holding it back in mine besides headers.
Just talked to the guy that built the motor and its all HOUR parts. Pistons(shaved). Gasket. And cams. Motor made great power in the other car so just trying to find out what's holding it back in mine besides headers.
#24
i know normally that it would cause more obvious issues, but could cam timing be off by maybe just one tooth? i wanna say i remember someone having similar issues on his 3.5, and it wound up being something with timing...but not sure.
#28
If you are sure your car is running well, you can run a 470k resistor in place of the knock sensor to rule that out.
What fuel pressure are you running? Where in the rpm range are you pulling 20% fuel? Not sure how much you will advance the timing by pulling that much fuel, but I guess a possibility is that you are indirectly adding so much timing that the car is detecting knock though the knock sensor and pulling back....just a guess.
What fuel pressure are you running? Where in the rpm range are you pulling 20% fuel? Not sure how much you will advance the timing by pulling that much fuel, but I guess a possibility is that you are indirectly adding so much timing that the car is detecting knock though the knock sensor and pulling back....just a guess.
#29
I already moved the knock sensor and it seems to have helped a little. I am not pulling 20% fuel at any rpm. when the motor was in the previous car, it was pulled close to 20% across the board. I'm pulling 3-8% and hitting 13.0 on the wideband. I think i may have an exhaust leak just big enough to fool my wideband. I leaned it out to 14.5 for a couple of 3rd gear pulls on the highway and it gained power. so maybe the wideband is off from a leak. How audible is is the pinging associated with lean knock? I cant hear anything odd over intake and road noise as of now.
I'm running 51psi static.
I'm running 51psi static.
#30
I already moved the knock sensor and it seems to have helped a little. I am not pulling 20% fuel at any rpm. when the motor was in the previous car, it was pulled close to 20% across the board. I'm pulling 3-8% and hitting 13.0 on the wideband. I think i may have an exhaust leak just big enough to fool my wideband. I leaned it out to 14.5 for a couple of 3rd gear pulls on the highway and it gained power. so maybe the wideband is off from a leak. How audible is is the pinging associated with lean knock? I cant hear anything odd over intake and road noise as of now.
I'm running 51psi static.
I'm running 51psi static.
Which wideband set up do you have? I would pull it out of the pipe and calibrate it. You should not gain power at 14.5:1.
12.8:1 has been a good spot for a lot of people on the dyno, and that is what I shot for. I did not make any additional power above that ratio. (I have a thread in the dyno section that may be helpful to you)
Something is not right, because I have a 3.5 swap in my 4th gen. I am not running static fuel pressure but I had to crank my fuel pressure up to ~45psi at idle to get enough fuel for beyoned 5k. I can see the large corrections down low, but up top if you are pulling that kind of fuel I imagine you could be close to loosing your engine. *edit* I just re-read and realized you are not pulling 20%
#32
The first thing I would do is make sure your WBO2 is calibrated. You are going to end up hurting something if you keep messing with it not knowing where you stand.
#34
IMO I would not keep pulling fuel. You are not going to find that much power by doing that. You need to figure out why your power is missing, before you try to fine tune it with a SAFC. Judging by your trap speed I think you would be lucky to be making 200 hp...you should be making more than that. Again, in my opinion your car should be faster than the times you posted with 51psi static fuel pressure and no tune at all.
#35
Well 200whp sounds about right when I should be closer to 250. A maf that's nots throwing a code couldn't be it. And there's no way I can get 50 from tuning. Maybe its a bad fpr or something stupid.
#36
figure out if your timing is correct first. That seems to be the biggest problem for people who have done the 3.5 swap that are down on power. Did you install the engine or did a shop? Do you know if a new main tensioner was used, and if it was primed with oil before the engine fired for the first time?
#37
I installed it but it already had about 10k on the rebuild. New tensioner was used. Yes it was primed. I had a lot of trouble starting it for the first time but eventually got it going. There is a little top end noise but goes almost away with fresh oil. My oil does get a lot darker with this motor than the 3.0. I changed it at 1k after the install and its got 1k on the new oil and its not black but its fairly dark. I'm used to the 3.0's oil coming out amber like new.
#38
IMO I would not keep pulling fuel. You are not going to find that much power by doing that. You need to figure out why your power is missing, before you try to fine tune it with a SAFC. Judging by your trap speed I think you would be lucky to be making 200 hp...you should be making more than that. Again, in my opinion your car should be faster than the times you posted with 51psi static fuel pressure and no tune at all.
Granted that doesn't help you figure out the problem, just throwing that out there. Good luck figuring out the missing power.
#39
Ill go tomorow to a buddys shop with a shop grade scan tool and see what my base timing is. What values should I get on a scan tool for timing. Any other things I should check while there. Last time I hooked it up , the factory O2s were reading full lean. Could this be bad O2s with no codes or just another 3.5 swap with cams issue? I'd like to know what to look for tomorrow before I get there so ill get the most out of my time.
#40
So at first I was going to blame it on the D/A and weight but after looking at videos of my GF's runs in 100 degree weather I think something is definatly wrong. Our auto 3.5 went 9.1@79 in 100+ degree weather. I would try bypassing the KS completely and see how it goes.