maximase86

iTrader: (24)

First, I got my KYB's in on the fronts. Basically replaced everything, new strut mounts, new bumpstop/boots, bearings, used thrust seats and spring seats. Basically the noise I used to have is gone (would make clunking sounds when the suspension moved up and down). Now it's doing a completely different thing. When I turn the steering wheel, I get popping noises. These seem to be coming more from the top near the strut mounts. It feels like something is binding on the steering wheel. I checked my tie rod ends and ball joints, and they don't have any play, nor do I notice the noise coming from there. I also tried putting the front end in the air, and turning the wheel back and forth, with the wheels on, and nothing happens. Again, my setup is KYB GR2's, and ST springs. Any ideas?

My 2nd question, I just put on my replacement fender on my car. I was able to find one the same color as my car (though it seems a tad darker). Anyway everything is on the car, but I noticed, the new fender and hood butt up right against each other. If I bring it down with out closing the hood, it seems the hood will go over the fender a little. I'd tried adjusting the hood, but it doesn't seem to work. Anyone have ideas on how to adjust the hood alignment?

Thanks!

S

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

If the hood was aligned before, on the damaged fneder, then don't try and align the hood, try and align the top edge of the fender.

Since this was the part replaced, try moving it first. Had a similar problem with my 87 Mustang several years ago, when I had to replace the antenna...only way I could get my fat paws in there to it was to pull the fender off...took a few attempts to get it aligned back correctly...

As for the noise up front, check the actual nut that holds the strut assembly together...when I did my fronts the first time, those nuts would not properly torque down, and caused a similar noise...we used a bi-metal hole saw, and cut access holes in the tops of the upper strut covers. Then, with the weight of the car resting on the struts, I was easily able to torque those nuts down...

Good luck on both accounts...

86Wagon

I'd be curious if the upper strut mount might have loosened up on you
a little bit. Also, MaxWgn has mentioned that the top strut nut should
be tightened with the strut loaded. MaxWgn has stated that cutting
a circular hole in the "cap" that you see in the engine compartment
will allow this to be done.

I'd check to make sure these bolt/nuts haven't loosened up on you,
could just need to be snugged up after driving the car a little.

About the fender issue, I would be a little leary about adjusting the hood.

Did it shut okay before with the old fender?

If so, it's the fender that needs alignment, not the hood.

Scott

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Yeah, the hood was increadibly close to the old fender, but never touching it. I think when I did have my accident, it either knocked the hood out of alignment, or tweaked the front end enough. If you look on the driver side, there is a huge gap.

As for the strut nut, I torque it down all the way with the help of the thrust seat. My buddy that owns a shop says it's possible that it could be my bearings are sticking. The car will be going in on friday to have the rear strut and springs done (since I don't want to mess with it....too much to screw up).

S

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well it turned out that you have to use the strut insulator/cap that goes on top of the strut. If you don't it'll allow the middle section of the sturt mount to flex up, causing the spring to loose tension. When that happens, the will move around, causing that popping noise. Either way, I'm glad to of resolved that. Now to finish my suspension and be done with that project!

S