sometimes when i go to accelerate the car studders for a few seconds and then catches its self and accelerates normally, this seems to happen mainly when i accelerate slowly but it does happen to when i accelerate fast and is starting to happen more frequently now.
does anyone know what this problem is or have any suggestions?
does anyone know what this problem is or have any suggestions?
Senior Member
It could just need a basic tune-up, maybe a bad vacuum line, timing may be out, could be in the tranny and/or torque converter, if you're an auto-tragic, etc...
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When you say it stutters, what exactly are you referring to?
well when i accelerate the car it just moves slowly and starts to shake and i have to ease off the gas and then i can accelerate like normal. Its just weird and definitely annoying. I just had the car go into the dealership to get ah check up and they said it was alright, they replaced the fuel injectors and some other components but obviously somethings wrong.Originally Posted by MaxWgn
Ryan,When you say it stutters, what exactly are you referring to?
Senior Member
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Sarin,Originally Posted by maximase86
Could be ignition related. Probably do for a tune up. S
What were some of the problems that you were having with your
car before you swapped out the dist (other than the obvious no
start condition)?
I think you mentioned something about a hesitation? Was that
the only problem or were there more?
Thanks!
Scott
Basically, what would happen is the car would hesitate really bad, but then pick right up. As it got worst, the engine would feel like it lost power all together, then it kicked in. Turned out that it was a bad Crank Angle Sensor.
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Senior Member
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Were you having any hot start problems before?Originally Posted by maximase86
Basically, what would happen is the car would hesitate really bad, but then pick right up. As it got worst, the engine would feel like it lost power all together, then it kicked in. Turned out that it was a bad Crank Angle Sensor. S
My car is hard to start after being shut off for twenty to thirty minutes.
The car sometimes will start just fine, only to run real rough and the tach
jumps around just a few seconds later then a few seconds more it will clear
up and run fine... sometimes it will start and then just die only to be a pita
to get started again after that... sometimes it starts and runs just fine, then
I put it in gear and head out for about half a mile only to have it run rough with
no power and dumping black smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the computer - nothing there, the service manual states bad
fuel pressure regulator - I've replaced it with a factory Nissan part - helped
some but didn't cure the problem.
I'm wondering if my car's CAS might be bad... were you having any trouble
like above before the dist swap only to have it clear up after?
Thanks!
Scott
Senior Member
My car would do that. It ended up being ignition problems. I had left an injector disconnected accidentally. Most likely its your wires and plugs. Like sarin said.coild be coil. Id for replace the plugs and wires first. Then go from there, besides new plugs and wires can never hurt your car. Specially if u got lifetime warranty on em.
-Hector
-Hector
Quote:
My car is hard to start after being shut off for twenty to thirty minutes.
The car sometimes will start just fine, only to run real rough and the tach
jumps around just a few seconds later then a few seconds more it will clear
up and run fine... sometimes it will start and then just die only to be a pita
to get started again after that... sometimes it starts and runs just fine, then
I put it in gear and head out for about half a mile only to have it run rough with
no power and dumping black smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the computer - nothing there, the service manual states bad
fuel pressure regulator - I've replaced it with a factory Nissan part - helped
some but didn't cure the problem.
I'm wondering if my car's CAS might be bad... were you having any trouble
like above before the dist swap only to have it clear up after?
Thanks!
Scott
I have similar hot start problems. Though mine are that bad. I would start the car just fine, but the idle would be crappy, and the car would feel like it's choking. It would do it for a few minutes, than clear up and run fine. It did this before and after I replaced the dizzy. It drives me nuts because I haven't been able to find it. I also notice, that sometimes, if it's cold out, it would be worst, but if it's warm out, it isn't as bad. It's wierd. My next deal will to replace the AAV valve, because that the next suspect on my list. My cold start idle is really really crappy for about 5-10 minutes and then it steadies out. Originally Posted by 86Wagon
Were you having any hot start problems before?My car is hard to start after being shut off for twenty to thirty minutes.
The car sometimes will start just fine, only to run real rough and the tach
jumps around just a few seconds later then a few seconds more it will clear
up and run fine... sometimes it will start and then just die only to be a pita
to get started again after that... sometimes it starts and runs just fine, then
I put it in gear and head out for about half a mile only to have it run rough with
no power and dumping black smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the computer - nothing there, the service manual states bad
fuel pressure regulator - I've replaced it with a factory Nissan part - helped
some but didn't cure the problem.
I'm wondering if my car's CAS might be bad... were you having any trouble
like above before the dist swap only to have it clear up after?
Thanks!
Scott
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Senior Member
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My car used to be like yours, but has now gotten worse...Originally Posted by maximase86
I have similar hot start problems. Though mine are that bad. I would start the car just fine, but the idle would be crappy, and the car would feel like it's choking. It would do it for a few minutes, than clear up and run fine. It did this before and after I replaced the dizzy. It drives me nuts because I haven't been able to find it. I also notice, that sometimes, if it's cold out, it would be worst, but if it's warm out, it isn't as bad. It's wierd. My next deal will to replace the AAV valve, because that the next suspect on my list. My cold start idle is really really crappy for about 5-10 minutes and then it steadies out. S
The plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all new, so I'm wondering
if maybe my CAS is "amplifying" the problem some...
I have a spare dist, I'll throw it in this weekend and keep ya informed...
Thanks!
Scott
Cool. BTW, I might be selling the muffler. I found out that it's 2.25 outlet, but the inlet is like 2.125 if even that! So now it looks like I had stock piping from my catback and not even realized it (I was told it was 2.25 piping....but oh well).
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Senior Member
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What'cha want for it? Need any parts?Originally Posted by maximase86
Cool. BTW, I might be selling the muffler. I found out that it's 2.25 outlet, but the inlet is like 2.125 if even that! So now it looks like I had stock piping from my catback and not even realized it (I was told it was 2.25 piping....but oh well). S
Thanks!
Scott
Well, I paid about $70 for that muffler. Nothing fancy, just a high flow one. 2" inlet it looks like, and 2.25" outlet with a single chrome finisher that's angle cut. I'll probably ask about $35 and shipping, which shouldn't be much. You will have to weld on new hangers for it seeing the shop chopped them when they put my Stillen in.
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Senior Member
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I'll let ya know first part of next week one way or the other...Originally Posted by maximase86
Well, I paid about $70 for that muffler. Nothing fancy, just a high flow one. 2" inlet it looks like, and 2.25" outlet with a single chrome finisher that's angle cut. I'll probably ask about $35 and shipping, which shouldn't be much. You will have to weld on new hangers for it seeing the shop chopped them when they put my Stillen in. S
I got quite a bit of repairs/upgrades I want to do this weekend
and I want to see how the old gal runs after I'm done.
Scott
