This is my first visit, I have An 88 and a 2000. My 88 picked up a squirrel up into the timing cover, gotr all rapped up in the front cam cog and caused a jump in timing bending all the intake valves. I pulled it all apart, replaced and reseated valves, then put it all back together. My problem now is that the engine starts but imediatly stalls from lack of fuel. Have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, blown out fuel lines, and checked out all emission devices. I'm stumped, has anyone any more ideas? Pete

 

I would first check the ECU for codes. The next things I would check are the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor which is in the area of the timing belt and heads, and the Crank Angle Sensor. The Crank Angle Sensor maybe your most likely culprit. It could be too that you forgot to plug the harness in, but I doubt you did that.

S

 

I haven't been able to find the procedure for accessing the ECU, the crap book I have (Haynes) doesn't mention it and neither does the owners man. I checked oput the crank angle sensor and it was OK. I haven't checked the connection on the head temp sensor at the sensor so that's what's next, yes I did check the harnesses..... about fifty times. Thanks for the tip. Pete

 

Let's see, the one I have is for the 85-86 procedure, from my FSM. Lemme check in my chilton's manual.

S

 

Alright, I can't remember where I put my Haynes manual. So I'm gonna try to tell it from memory.

1. Turn the ignition to the on position.

2. Make sure all the accessories are off.

3. Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise to the stop.

4. Watch the inspection lamps. They both should blink together once, then pause, twice then pause, three times then pause, four times then pause, and 5 times then pause. These indicate the modes. Since you want diagnostic mode, you want to put it into mode 3. So when you see the lights blink 3 times then pause. When that happens, turn the mode screw fully counter clockwise.

5. Then you want to watch the inspection lamps. What you want to do is count the number of times the green lamp flashes, then the number of times the red lamp flashes. So for instance, if you get 5 green flashes, and 5 red flashes, you have code 55, which by the way, means everything is normal. Basically the ECU will continue to repeat the codes until you get them all.

6. You now have the codes and just need to put the ECU back into mode one as shown above.

BTW, the ECU is located under the passenger seat. There is a cover that you just pop out. You'll see 2 large phillip screws, remove those, and there is also a large phillip screw towards the back of the ECU that secures a plastic holester. Hope this helps.

S

 

Thanks alot, I'm working 12 on and 12 off so it's taken me a while to get back to you. I'll try this as soon as I get a chance. Thanks again, Pete

 

Wow, that's sounds like a fun schedule! Either way let me know!

S

 

I tried to use the onboard diagnostics but the engine has to be running. To keep the engine running requires a good deal of throttle manipulation and does't allow me to also control the diagnostic computer. Is there any way to access codes when engine isn't running with only key on?

 

Unfortunately, I the only way to do it is probably with a OBDI (not OBDII) hook up to a diagnostic computer. However good luck finding one of those around.

S

 

finnaly got tired of chasing the problem and called a couple of garages. Both said they had to re-do my efforts to make certain what happened. No way am I paying THAT kind of money. So I'm now in the process of doing it myself and found that the intake manifold was slightly missaligned with the heads (more to one head than the other). After pulling apart I saw that the gaskets were not all that they could be, still passable but not perfect, so I'm replacing them. WOW $60 for 2 gaskets. Oh well if it fixes it thats a bargain compaired to what the two garages were planning for my bank account. Will keep posted with results.

P.S. Also ordered amsoil synthetic tranny fluid (2 1/2 gals) to flush my 2000 tranny. We'll see if it stops the 1st/2nd slip first thing in the morning.

 

hope that fixes it, intake leaks are a b...h to isolate. and $60 for 2 gaskets seems outrageous. I paid $8 for 2 valve cover gaskets for the 2.8L engine in my blazer... just remember, if the gasket doesn't exist, RTV is the master problem solver. anyway, I can't figure out why nissan didn't put a "check engine" light in ALL models of our cars to blatantly tell us there was a problem, instead of us looking at blinking LEDs on the computer. life would have been a lot easier for us with non-california models.

 

Nope, it didn't fix it. In fact when I took it back apart I found nothing wrong, and while putting it back together I was very meticulous about every detail, and STILL had the identical problem, starts right up and dies. Maybe some gas and a match will fix it!!!!!!!!

 

What about the injectors? If they are bad that could do it. And if they suck you could replace them w/ 300zx injectors. I hear its a dope mod for our cars.

 

OH YEAH!
When my max went ka-put, the MAF sensor had gone. That made it almost impossible to run without mashing the gas, the other one is the ECU could be gone too. When those go your car just won't start.

 

Are you absolutely sure you got the cams/belt all lined up correctly??
ie... Put the belt on, confirm that the two cams are aligned, turn the engine over with a wrench two rotations, recheck alignment again......

You could have the cam off by 1 tooth and it would probably still run. Abeit run like total crap.

 

As a matter of fact I just now looked up a price for the MAF sensor. I have an explorer that wouldn't start at all untill I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it with a non-flammable brake cleaner. To my surprise not only did it start right up but the constant pinging that was present since I bought it also went away. So I guess it's my next try. And yes I'm absolutly sure of the timming marks, I checked and double checked them. And besides, when the car starts it runs perfectly, then just dies like the fuel line gets pinched off. I also seriously doubt that ALL 6 injectors would crap out at the same time, and like I said, it runs great while it runs. Thanks guys for the suggestions, and I WILL get this thing running, it's not going to kick MY butt!!!

 

Werd pete
Keep the faith!!
Hey how much can you get a maf Sensor?
The one that are rebuilt cost like 300 around here.

 

The initial cost is 180, but there is a $60 core