My AC went dead again about a year ago, and I didnt do anything about it since the summer wasnt too hot and the blower still worked well enough. I had it switched over to R134a 2 years ago when it died the first time. Fast forward to this summer, and I've gotten a new remanufactured compressor, new receiver/dryer and replaced the O-rings in the engine bay save for 1 o-ring on the receiver/dryer side of the condenser (?) in front of the radiator that is an absolute pain to get to. I've had my neighbor take it to his work to check it out, and the system will still not work. Not sure if its a leak somewhere (no signs of a leak though, even with dye put in the system the last time it was charged 2 years ago), or if a system component is still not working. Previously, the system would drag my car down hard, ie when you pushed in the AC button, the clutch would engage and then start to make some horrible noises and stall out the car - that was the old compressor.
Does anyone have any ideas what could still be causing problems? Is my system totally screwed? Its a horribly hot summer, made only worse by heavy traffic and no air conditioning. Are there any other parts that are known to cause issues with getting the AC to work that would/should need to be replaced with the compressor and receiver/dryer? Also, any ideas how much the lines for the system cost? (the rubber sections) Thanks for any info.

Greg

 

Could be a bad relay, bad switch...something up wit the wiring. The shop you said that check it out, they couldn't find anything wrong at all? I'm assuming there is no loss of coolant?

S

 

Went and talked to the guy and he asked me some questions about the retrofitting that was done, asking about the vavles that were put on the low and high end. Asked if the original stem had been removed from the low end, I said I didnt know, so he pulled off the adpater and the old stem was still in there. Got a stem puller and removed it from the valve and pressure tested the system, then seeing that it was pullin better than before (still not 30, but he thinks his gauges are off), he charged the system and now it blows frigid and the system seems to be running fine. There does seem to be, tho, contamination in the system, as the receiver/dryer's window isnt consistant in what it shows: it'll be cloudy like its supposed to be, then give a bubble, then nothing at all, so I need to have the system purged again to try and get whatever it is out - he thinks it might be too much oil in the system. So, the good news is it blows ice cold and works again, the bad news is that its still not 100% fixed, but dang close.

Greg

 

the dryer should have a clear eye, not cloudy, when it cloudy it means the system is contaminated.

sounds like you need a new dryer $40 from a junk yard usuall;y does it but when you pull itpesure to tape all the openenings closed to keep it from getting contaminated, it'll happen quick....we used foam rubber ear plugs when i pulled my new dryer but then your using that 134a and i managed to get origonal R12 parts and refrigerant about a year ago so you might need a 134 dryer...

also if your putting 134 through a origonal R12 dryer it might give a contaminated reading....

i dont know though i didnt read you whole post, there was just too much there

 

YOu got crap inside the system. orfice tube is pluged, the system needs to be flushed completely. The R134 works at higher pressure than R12 and it will never be efficient enough in r12 designed system. The inspection window can not be clear in r134, the proper system will allways be foggy in the inspection window.

 

The dude above me is right. The sightglass only works with R12. It is useless for R134. Have a look at any car that was designed to work with R134 originally. You'll not find a sightglass. If the shop evacuated your system, and it held a vacuum, then there is no leak. If they recharged using the correct pressures, and it works now, don't mess with it. I personally would never retro an R12 unless forced to do so by law...and even then.....

 

Which dude? Hakken or Niku? The system started out cloudy, then went and finished clear, with a bit of bubbling in between. Also, do any of you know the amount of R134a that should be put into the system? We put in 2lbs 5oz according to the guy's electronic measurement tool (some electronic pad the refridgerant tank sat on). Thanks for your help all.

Greg

 

oh wait its just bubbly now?
i thought it was just white all the time, if its bubbly just add a little bit at a time till they go away, there are also 134a recharge kits with sealants in them to get small pin holes i guess, ironicaly my friend needed help recharging his system today so i did it for him but his dryer didnt have a window on it which made it difficult

 

Just before I shut it off, it wasnt showing anything in the window. Started cloudy, then bubbled some, then it was clear. Sorry for the confusion.

Greg

 

what do you guys know about freeze-12. its supposed to be an r-12 replacement. i had a guy charge the system with it for $70. the airconditioner blows cold air but the sight glass has a steady stream of milky bubbles when the system runs? its not really a problem just more of a curiocity.
-matt-

 

Jeez..! I'll say it again. The sightglass on an R12 system that's been retrofitted to R134 is useless for gauging the charge amount. I don't know of any R134 system (not a retrofit but an designed for R134 from scratch) that use a sightglass. The guy that charged his system did it properly, using weight of refrigerant, and hopefully he used manifold gauges as well to get proper pressures based on the ambient temperature. Also, DO NOT USE one of those recharge kits that have sealer in them. They are known as 'death kits', and cause something called 'black death' within your system. Do a search at www.airconditon.com for death kit or black death.

Greg88floater - if the system works fine and you're happy with how cold it blows, but a piece of duct tape over the sight glass, and worry about world peace or something. If you have any more specific questions, you could try posting at www.aircondition.com or searching there for answers to your questions. I don't think anyone there will tell you to use the sightglass to charge with R134!

 

Don't know much about Freeze 12 (I'll do a google later), but it's probably the same as with R134. The sight glass is intended for R12 only. If your system blows cold and the hi and lo side pressures are within spec (for Freeze 12), then ignore the sight glass.

 

Will there ever be world peace? What good are weapons to protect ourselves when it only sparks other countries to arm themselves to protect them from us, which causes us to beef up our arms, which continues the chain reaction of all other nations not liking us very much and beefing up their arms and getting jealous over what we have and thus starting their own nuklear programs and such?! oh the inhumanity of it all...

Thanks rcy.

Greg