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clutch is going out...

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Old 08-23-2005, 05:39 AM
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clutch is going out...

well when i floor it it acts like itsin nuteral and the rps pick up way fast and the car dosent go, and you can smell the clutch burning. but if i be calm then its fine, i dont know if the clutch has ever been replaced, but i would assume it has with 250000 miles on it. what do i need i priced a clutch and its like $40 but then the pressure plate is like $120 do i just need clutch??? or what i also seen this on ebay,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT i should just get the whole kit seems to be a better deal than advance
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:55 AM
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you should go ahead and replace everything while you are in there, buy everything I mean you should get a clutch kit that includes the clutch disc, the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing. Which ever kit you go with also should come with an alignment tool...just make sure it does or you are going to have issues. The one you linked to seems a big agressive, that may be a little rough on your tranny.
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:27 AM
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ok, but that kit on ebay comes with everything and at advance its only the pressure plate and clutch for $160 and its prob not stage 3

if i get that one on ebay , how would it be rough on my tranny, i would drive it the same, im not racing, would it still be rought on it, if i do the job my self im also going to change my gear oil and whatever else you might reccoment doing to the tranny.

have you replaced a clutch on a 2ed gen max?? how hard was it, 1/2 or 1 day job??? any special tools i need?



ps i would like to get the kit on ebay cuz it says stage 3 and it seems to be a nice clutch that will last me




edit i just went to advance and a clutch kit is 147.77, idk which one to get

also i looked in the haynes book and it dont say anything about replasing clutch, it says how to get the tranny out?? do i have to take it completly out??
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:49 AM
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I don't know why in god's name you would need a 6 puck clutch in your second gen. It is more rough on the tranny because it will not engage as smooth, when the clutch engages it will have a lot more bite and harshness than you stock clutch. Also are you sure that is the brand you would like to go with? I have never heard of that.
I have never done a clutch in my second gen, but I have done with with the help of my friends in my fourth gen. It took us about a day to do it since it was my first time and I do not have a lift.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:13 AM
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so should i get the one from advance?
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:26 AM
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I guess you can get which ever one you want. I got an ACT clutch when I replaced mine. I do not know anything about the clutches that advanced sells. I know a lot of people either get the ACT or the Exedy Stage one if they go with aftermarket, or just stick with the nissan clutch assy. I know with the fourth gen you have to order the parts seperate because if you order the assy. as a kit thru the dealer they give you the Key Value clutch kit which are known to slip pretty easy on the fourth gen. The one on ebay or the one at advanced will be cheaper than any of the options I have mentioned.

And yes, you have to un bolt the tranny from the motor...its fun
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:51 AM
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so its between the ebay one and the advance one, the ebayone is around $40 os so more with shipping, idk which one to get
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:22 AM
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I do not have an opinion on those two, other than I think a six puck on a non boosted second gen is over kill and you will be frustrated with the harshness
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:39 AM
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ya i dont wont to create more problems , so i guess im going to get the regular ol clutch
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:15 AM
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First take it apart and see what is the matter. With the high mileage, it may be as simple as the throw-out bushing having worn a ridge on the sleeve, causing the clutch to not fully engage.This has been a problem on earlier Datsun products, because they use a cast iron bushing running on a cast aluminium sleeve!

-bob
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:45 AM
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ya i thought it might be something simple, but its slipping i still drive it, but i do not floor it or take off fast now, if i take it apart i would prob put a new clutch in anyway
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:04 PM
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I personally think it is too much work to drop the tranny and not replace the whole clutch kit....especially since it sounds like the entire clutch assy. has some miles on it
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:43 PM
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ya, im going to leve it for now, and see what i can about getting the parts, ill also need some help on how to install it.... should i replace any tranny seals or something while im there, i wont to also change the gear oil
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:57 AM
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If you are doing the "full meal deal", remember to get the flywheel resurfaced, because if the clutch has been slipping, the flywheel friction surface will be glazed.

-bob
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Old 08-24-2005, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gen1
If you are doing the "full meal deal", remember to get the flywheel resurfaced, because if the clutch has been slipping, the flywheel friction surface will be glazed.

-bob


thanks for the info, where could i get that done???
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Old 08-24-2005, 06:38 PM
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I have a 1988 maxima and Ive been working on my clutch master cylinder and i need to fin the clutch master cylinder kit. its not the same clutch master cylinder that should of came withe the care because the pistion arnt the same , the one that Im looking is a solid piston but the outher one has a gap through it for the supply vallue stoper.

If any body know where i can find this clutch master cylinder kid

no1asgr8te@hotmail.com
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:46 PM
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Any brake shop should have the equipment to resurface a flywheel.
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Old 09-04-2005, 06:34 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...spagenameZWDVW hows that?????



also i was wondering if i could just get a new flywheel if its not to $,
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Old 09-05-2005, 01:38 PM
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Looks okay even at the buy it now. Walnut Cove is only 60 miles away so the shipping cost should be minimal. Carparts.com lists the clutch kit at $137 plus shipping. Machining the flywheel should cost less than $20, about the same cost as getting a brake rotor turned. Usually they work in steps of about .005 inches, so the OEM clutch kit should be fine. Rebuilds will make the pressure plate thicker by an equivalent amount.

-bob
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gen1
Any brake shop should have the equipment to resurface a flywheel.

dont they just throw it on a brake lathe and scrape it off?
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:43 AM
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ok its time to do it,

i have ordered the clutch kit, from advance it scomes with all the stuff i think

i also go some gasket maker, to use around speedo cable, and wherever

also i got 5 quarts of accel 80 - 90 gear oil ( is this the right weight) and should i use a better brand????????

im also going to get my flywheel resurfaced

whats else does anyone reccomend?

one great thing about this is i dont have to finish it in 1 day so the car can sit for as long as i need

heres what i got so far

jack front up and support it
drain gear oil
and see what i need to do to drop the tranny

I HAVE TO DO THIS JOB RIGHT!!!

if you have ever changed a clutch on a 2ed gen please help me out. i plan to start monday and do some work on wendsay, i can start on wensday or later if i dont know enough. but im not going to start this if i dont know wtf to do




guys im going to really need ur help on this
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Old 09-10-2005, 07:33 PM
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ok well i got the clutch today and i also picked up some medium strength threeadlock
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Old 09-10-2005, 07:48 PM
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when I did mine on my fourth gen (I had lots of help), I remember after draining the fluid, we disconnected the shift linkage, and then pulled the axles, after that if I recall we un bolted the tranny. Took the tranny out on a jack, then when we were done doing the clutch, I bech pressed the tranny up while someone puts the bolts back in....I recomend using a jack, but I got fed up with so I just lifted it up in there. I would defintly get a service manual and read up on it if you have not already.
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Old 09-11-2005, 04:25 AM
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ok, the repair manuel tells how to take tranny out, it says i have to support the morot also. thanks for the help
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Old 09-11-2005, 04:44 AM
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what gear oil do yall recomend? what wt?
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Old 09-11-2005, 06:08 PM
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I think it's 85w90.

S
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Old 09-11-2005, 07:21 PM
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any brand ok ??? i got 80 90 i dont seen 85 90 it goes 85 125 or somsehintg
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Old 09-13-2005, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SurraTT
any brand ok ??? i got 80 90 i dont seen 85 90 it goes 85 125 or somsehintg
I just changed a fourth gen axle this weekend, and that calls for 80w90. I got Lucas because that was all that was available, but it is suposed to be a good brand.
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Old 09-13-2005, 09:14 AM
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80w90 is what I meant...sorry.

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Old 09-13-2005, 06:30 PM
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ok, idk i might use the cheepo stuff, cuz it takes 5 qurts
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Old 09-16-2005, 05:21 PM
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well today i started on it, all i got done in about 4 hours was draines the tranny and unhooked the shifter and started to take the y pipe off, and also some small stuff, so far its not to hard but i am slow, im trying hard to rember what i do, i think i can finish unhooking stuff on the tranny , then support the motor and unbolt the tranny and take it out
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Old 09-19-2005, 04:38 PM
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well well, i got the tranny OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yay (i have to admit i was getting worried but i came through) i ALSO took pics, i think i know what the clutch was slipping , OIL got in the tranny, i noiced it was leaking when i changed my oil, but i thought it was from there the filter leaker everywhere when i took it off.


so look at these pics

www.surrattracing.com/maxima/clutch

and tell me if im right, and wtf should i do to preven this happing agian




also i tryed to get the pressure plate off and i turned the bolts and the motor turned so how do i get them out?????



i have to admit im having fun.
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Old 09-19-2005, 04:49 PM
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going to change the rear main seal while your there?
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:16 PM
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i guess, is that what the prob is????? rear main seal in the motor? is their a gasket that goes aroung that tranny
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:29 PM
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Judging by the way oil is behind the flywheel. Be sure you resurface that flywheel while your at it. But this is a perfect time to do rear main seal, and axle seals. BTW, there is no gasket that goes between the engine and tranny. There isn't need for one.

S
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:38 PM
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i am going to resurface the fly , how do i get the pressure plate off?? when i tryed it just turned the whole thing

how bad is it to do a rear main seal?? easy? , what axle seal, the ones right at the tranny???? what else do YOU reccomend to do???



i was thinking mabey i should try to fix my broken manifold studs???? ive got room i think?? any imput is great, i could get by with just the raer ones but its whatever



im trying to do a lot of stuff why my car is down so i can be done with it till spring
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Old 09-20-2005, 09:45 PM
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dude, dont you have a chiltons manual atleast?

the difficulty rating depends on the person, in my mind its not easy by a long shot but its not going to be super hard but thats me, and i dont have my trans mission out and thats half the work to getting to the rear main...just take a look in a book to see whats involved in changin the rear main, your also going to want to replace the oil pan gasket since its cheap and its good to change after a car is this old

800....power poster lately sorry about that
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:04 PM
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There is no pressure plate on a 5-speed. What sits in your way is the clutch, fly, and pilot bearing. To get the fly off, you must prevent the motor from turning. Just stick a flat-head in to use as leverage.

S
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:13 PM
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well i need the boot that goes around the clutch relese lever, and of cousrse the only 5sp in the yard is not to be found, i went to nissan and got the # 30542-03f10 they wont 21.95 there is no way im paying that, any ideas??? could someone go to their yard and get me one?? its very small that # dosent even work on nismoparts.com, they prob gave me the wrong # so i would have to come back
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:10 PM
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i'm sure there is a pressure plate. it's kind of hard for a clutch to work without one.
just get someone to jam a screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and somewhere on the engine block so the flywheel doesn't turn, and loosen the bolts.
i've never done a rear main seal on a maxima V6, but i'm assuming it's just a matter of prying out the old one with a screwdriver, then coating the inside of the seal with grease and tapping it in with a big socket or something similar so it goes in straight.
make sure you check the new clutch plate fits on the spline of the input shaft on the trans. too, and put some grease on the spline before you re-fit it too. also remember to line the clutch plate up with pilot bearing before you tighten up the pressure plate so the trans. slides in nice and easy.
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