ok i just put a new water pump, themostat and CHTS in me car....the chts had shorted out hard core...burn marks melting, the whole bit the car runs great when its a little warmed up.

my question is why the f is it so hard to start when its cold? it'll go for a few secconds and then it'll drop to about 700 rpm and dip and some times it'll stall or it'll come back up and then go down and repeats or stalls...any thoughts?

the thermostat i put in it is a 170 degree thermostat, and i dont know what a normal operating temp reading is...its only gotten to just a little under half way...normal? or too low?
...its an improvment from the old one which went to 3/4 before it open and then maintained the 3/4 when it warmed fully.

and then the speedo needle vibrated between speeds and at about 35Mph it whines from the center of the dash, i know the cables go in from there but any one else have this happen? i did have to hold them aside but i am hoping its not a permanent thing because its irritating as hell

 

Have you tried resetting the ECU, taking it for a drive, and then trying to pull codes from it again?

 

Your thermostat should be at half way or alittle bit before like you described. So you are fine on temp. Why your car stalls is another mistery. Check your timing and also make sure your base idle is correct. Does it run good after it is warmed up or does it still dip in rpms, if so how much? Also, does it stall after being warmed up? Pulling the codes is going to be your best bet. If all else fails.

 

I have the same issue you are describing. The culprit is almost always the Air Regulator. These seem to go out on our cars more so than with other cars.

Check out this thread for info on how to repair one: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=191348

Or you can buy a new one that is made in Japan for $82 located here:
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Type=Automatic

I had extra funds set aside and simply deciding to buy a new one, put it, no more idle issues. Of course you need to be certain your timing is correct before you can cure the idle issue.

Hope that helps.

- Best Regards,
- David Steele
- Take Care

 

it takes a bout 3 minutes to get it to stop sipping and/or stalling, after that its pretty flawless nowas for codes i cant get it to a point where its gonna give me any.

i start, tunr clockwise, wait for 3 lites, turn counter clock wise and i get a 44 sooo....i donno if thats it or what

 

my 87 has this same problem. It runs great after it is warm but when the car is cold it has one hell of a time starting and running/idling. I had a fairly new AAV in it, and I also tried putting one that I have repaired on....neither one of them helps with the cold starting problem. Last time I pulled codes (before I sold the car to my dad) I was throwing the CHTS code, and a few others that I do not remember, but my CHTS and and harness had been changed with in the past 10k miles. If you guys figure this one out please let me know, my brother will be very happy if you do (he drives the car now).

 

yea my AAV is ok and i just replaced the CHTS the harness was still good...gonna do plug wires soon...

whats that sensor right above the injector just to the right of the distributer? it looks like a brass bolt with resin in it with 2 wires commin out

 

Vacuum leak? Only thing I can think of is AAV or a really bad vacuum leak.

S

 

i dont no for sure on your us models but in oz that is .but i would say that the brass plug would be your coolant sensor which tells your transmisson that it can go in to overdrive if you have a auto if its a manual then it could be your nock sensor which retards your timeing when its detonating

 

eh, i dont think its gotta knock sensor...i am not getting a steady acceleration any more when i step on the gas, the transmission is full and theres nothing in the fluid...if i were to say fuel pump it kinda makes sence, if its not getting enough fuel it would do that and when it gets hot if it still not getting enough fuel it would ping like it does under load...but something just doesent seem right...

everythings been changed except the pump, fuel pressure regular/temp sensor, and the EGR valve....argh...either way other than the cold start and the pinging it has always had its running a ton better, much smoother and quieter

 

Yeah 2nd gen VG30E's didn't get knock sensors.

S

 

wish it did, then i could make lame knock knock jokes....

any way when i get paid i am gonna go get a pump out of a junk yard car and see if its any different...i dont know how i am gonna tell if its good or not but it'll be cheaper....

i am sure theyre higher flow but will 300Z Pathfinder or late 80's V6 PU's fuel pump work in our cars?

 

My dose the Exact same thing i would also really like to know why!