my usual array of questions
12-16-2005, 07:48 PM
#1
my usual array of questions
ok i just put a new water pump, themostat and CHTS in me car....the chts had shorted out hard core...burn marks melting, the whole bit the car runs great when its a little warmed up.
my question is why the f is it so hard to start when its cold? it'll go for a few secconds and then it'll drop to about 700 rpm and dip and some times it'll stall or it'll come back up and then go down and repeats or stalls...any thoughts?
the thermostat i put in it is a 170 degree thermostat, and i dont know what a normal operating temp reading is...its only gotten to just a little under half way...normal? or too low?
...its an improvment from the old one which went to 3/4 before it open and then maintained the 3/4 when it warmed fully.
and then the speedo needle vibrated between speeds and at about 35Mph it whines from the center of the dash, i know the cables go in from there but any one else have this happen? i did have to hold them aside but i am hoping its not a permanent thing because its irritating as hell
my question is why the f is it so hard to start when its cold? it'll go for a few secconds and then it'll drop to about 700 rpm and dip and some times it'll stall or it'll come back up and then go down and repeats or stalls...any thoughts?
the thermostat i put in it is a 170 degree thermostat, and i dont know what a normal operating temp reading is...its only gotten to just a little under half way...normal? or too low?
...its an improvment from the old one which went to 3/4 before it open and then maintained the 3/4 when it warmed fully.
and then the speedo needle vibrated between speeds and at about 35Mph it whines from the center of the dash, i know the cables go in from there but any one else have this happen? i did have to hold them aside but i am hoping its not a permanent thing because its irritating as hell
12-17-2005, 09:56 AM
#3
Your thermostat should be at half way or alittle bit before like you described. So you are fine on temp. Why your car stalls is another mistery. Check your timing and also make sure your base idle is correct. Does it run good after it is warmed up or does it still dip in rpms, if so how much? Also, does it stall after being warmed up? Pulling the codes is going to be your best bet. If all else fails.
12-17-2005, 04:58 PM
#4
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 48
I have the same issue you are describing. The culprit is almost always the Air Regulator. These seem to go out on our cars more so than with other cars.
Check out this thread for info on how to repair one: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=191348
Or you can buy a new one that is made in Japan for $82 located here:
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Type=Automatic
I had extra funds set aside and simply deciding to buy a new one, put it, no more idle issues. Of course you need to be certain your timing is correct before you can cure the idle issue.
Hope that helps.
- Best Regards,
- David Steele
- Take Care
Check out this thread for info on how to repair one: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=191348
Or you can buy a new one that is made in Japan for $82 located here:
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Type=Automatic
I had extra funds set aside and simply deciding to buy a new one, put it, no more idle issues. Of course you need to be certain your timing is correct before you can cure the idle issue.
Hope that helps.
- Best Regards,
- David Steele
- Take Care
12-17-2005, 10:34 PM
#5
Originally Posted by max88q
Your thermostat should be at half way or alittle bit before like you described. So you are fine on temp. Why your car stalls is another mistery. Check your timing and also make sure your base idle is correct. Does it run good after it is warmed up or does it still dip in rpms, if so how much? Also, does it stall after being warmed up? Pulling the codes is going to be your best bet. If all else fails.
it takes a bout 3 minutes to get it to stop sipping and/or stalling, after that its pretty flawless nowas for codes i cant get it to a point where its gonna give me any.
i start, tunr clockwise, wait for 3 lites, turn counter clock wise and i get a 44 sooo....i donno if thats it or what
12-19-2005, 06:41 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Niku-Sama
it takes a bout 3 minutes to get it to stop sipping and/or stalling, after that its pretty flawless nowas for codes i cant get it to a point where its gonna give me any.
i start, tunr clockwise, wait for 3 lites, turn counter clock wise and i get a 44 sooo....i donno if thats it or what
i start, tunr clockwise, wait for 3 lites, turn counter clock wise and i get a 44 sooo....i donno if thats it or what
12-19-2005, 09:11 PM
#7
yea my AAV is ok and i just replaced the CHTS the harness was still good...gonna do plug wires soon...
whats that sensor right above the injector just to the right of the distributer? it looks like a brass bolt with resin in it with 2 wires commin out
whats that sensor right above the injector just to the right of the distributer? it looks like a brass bolt with resin in it with 2 wires commin out
12-20-2005, 02:12 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 22
Originally Posted by Niku-Sama
yea my AAV is ok and i just replaced the CHTS the harness was still good...gonna do plug wires soon...
whats that sensor right above the injector just to the right of the distributer? it looks like a brass bolt with resin in it with 2 wires commin out
whats that sensor right above the injector just to the right of the distributer? it looks like a brass bolt with resin in it with 2 wires commin out
12-24-2005, 03:35 PM
#10
eh, i dont think its gotta knock sensor...i am not getting a steady acceleration any more when i step on the gas, the transmission is full and theres nothing in the fluid...if i were to say fuel pump it kinda makes sence, if its not getting enough fuel it would do that and when it gets hot if it still not getting enough fuel it would ping like it does under load...but something just doesent seem right...
everythings been changed except the pump, fuel pressure regular/temp sensor, and the EGR valve....argh...either way other than the cold start and the pinging it has always had its running a ton better, much smoother and quieter
everythings been changed except the pump, fuel pressure regular/temp sensor, and the EGR valve....argh...either way other than the cold start and the pinging it has always had its running a ton better, much smoother and quieter
12-25-2005, 11:11 PM
#12
wish it did, then i could make lame knock knock jokes....
any way when i get paid i am gonna go get a pump out of a junk yard car and see if its any different...i dont know how i am gonna tell if its good or not but it'll be cheaper....
i am sure theyre higher flow but will 300Z Pathfinder or late 80's V6 PU's fuel pump work in our cars?
any way when i get paid i am gonna go get a pump out of a junk yard car and see if its any different...i dont know how i am gonna tell if its good or not but it'll be cheaper....
i am sure theyre higher flow but will 300Z Pathfinder or late 80's V6 PU's fuel pump work in our cars?
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