bkred115

For awhile now, probably 4 months, we have been having a clunk under neath the drivers floor board ven going over littel bumps. We had the same problem before and it was a broken sway bar bracket. i got that fixed and the clunking was gone. i put new struts in it then got it aligned then it started making the almost same noise. i lgot under it and couldnt see anything i took off the wheel and looked to see if strut was loose or not i tightened everything down but still a clunk. So i talked to a guy that works on maximas and he told me it could possibly be a tie rod or something to do with the steering. Anyone think this could be it? I know its not cv's we just replaced them.
TIA.
Chris C.

Charles Bisel

Man, I just started to get the same exact clunking noise too about a week ago. My car only has 100K on it, and I don't think it's the CV joints either, cause they usually make a contiunous noise. I thought that it might be a bad strut or the tie rod ends. I checked my strut and it isn't loose either, but it's pretty rusted. I'm thinking it's probably the tie rod end is bad. If anyone else has any advice, we'd definitely appreciate it.

-C-

bkred115

Yah if it was your CV'c you would here more of a continious ticking till you let off the gas, and mainly when you turn corners, if you think it is your cvs just go to parking lot and drive around in circles with foot on throtle and if no continious noise then its not your cvs. Make sure and do circles both ways to test both CV'c.
And this isnt anything like it its a piece of metal hitting the firewall, im going to do the tie rods this weekend and see if that helps, i think that is most likely the problem since the boots are both ripped in half.lol
Well thanks for any info.
Chris C.

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Well, never went through that one, but when I pulled the front end apart on my 87 wagon to replace the 1/2 shafts and struts, I saw two things that could case the problem you're describing. For the record, it could be the outer tie-rod end, or even the ball-joint. If you narrow it down this far, and buy after-market replacements, make sure the one's you buy have a castle nut to fasten the stud, and not nylon lock-nuts.

Another thing it could be, especially if you installed the new struts yourself, cuz this one I did encounter...the top nut, on the actual shaft, that compressed the spring down could be loose. When we put mine together, we tightened the nut down with an air impact, but the shaft started to rotate with the nut, as it got tight. This happened on both, and when we applied the torque wrench, it was almost at the torque settings. So we installed the struts...only to have them too loose. They had to be installed in the car for the true load to be applied to the shaft. When this happened, it releived stress from the spring, and therefore, torque on those nuts, and the struts were loose. The only fix we knew would work for sure without wasting a ton of time r/r the struts over and over, trying to torque them down. We simply used a 2" hole saw, centered on the main cap, and cut an access hole to the nut. We then torqued them down on the car, and added a secondary lock nut, on top of the main nut, and torqued it down also. No more rattle or bump.

max95q

iTrader: (10)

Could be the Strut boot in between the Strut and the Strut tower if its all ate up from yrs of abuse get new ones. I have the same prob a small rattle when I went over bumps its the sTrut rubber boot that goes betweent the Strut and the Strut tower.

Brendan

Anyone think about a loose catalitic converter, that could cause a clunking over bumps

1988Maxima

when i heard a clunking problem a few weeks ago, it turned out one of my exhaust pipes was about to come off