well, my transmission/torque converter died. My father was driving it when suddenly bam!, and the revs just went up with no movement. Has done this a couple of times before, so now it is sitting in the back yard waiting to get repaired.

 

That is a pisser! Thought about maybe a swap over to a 5-speed?

 

My 5 speed is leaking gear oil. I noticed the other day, but I have no idea where it's comin from. Now I'm all paranoid that the trans is whining. Not sure if it is, or its just me.

However, I will be draining and refilling it to be safe until I can further diagnose it.

 

more then likely the axle seals, best thing to do is it wipe it all off, fill back up, let sit over night, look and track drip up, or if you have the time drain replace seals, since you will have drain it to change them you might as well just do it the first time and save a bit on gearlube. About the only other place it would leak from that doesn't cause other issues is the input shaft, if it was leaking from where the speedo sending unit goes your speedo wouldn't work.

 

I had to relocate my ground cable, my battery died and since the 200 isn't running and I bought a new battery for that when I got it I didn't want to buy another, but the post are on the front of the battery. So undid the bolt that grounds the cable to the body made the hole a bit bigger (pulled the cable off the engine and cleaned it while I was at it) ran the cable infront of the battery and rebolted the cable the the bolt that sits to the side of the battery in the tray.

 

Neccessity is the mother of invention! Actually, we do this all the time in the boat wiring business. We use these little doohickeys called Power Posts, basically a stud that you run a ground from the batt to, then all your chassis/electronics grounds terminate to the post. Easy, clean, and simple.

Vern, doubt it's from the speedo cable, that is on top of the tranny and is used as the dipstick when re-filling. TA, I'd refill using the cheapest 70W-90 you can find, clean as Vern described, then see if she leaks over night, also as Vern described. If no leak is present in the morn, drive her around to get the oil hot, then shut her down and observe for leaks...

 

I have thought of it, but got very used to automatic on it. My father had swapped my older brothers 2nd gen to 5 speed, and it also seemed pretty labor intensive. Would also be tough on my end since mine has digital everything inside(well, everything that came stock digital).

 

Gotcha, Blue. God, I hate digital gauges, but since there are so few of our cars left, beggars can't be choosers.

My first Max had an auto, I didn't mind it. I still had my Scirocco at the time (with a 6-speed!), so my manual craving could be satisfied...

 

My first Maxima was an Auto. If I didnt love Maximas, I would have hated the car. But my hate was only towards the transmission on that car.

On my current car, the leak I cant pinpoint. Seems to be around the starter area. Which doesnt make sense. But it could be the seal on the input shaft possibly. Im gonna wash it all down this weekend and flush/refill the trans.

I'll prob pop the starter off to have a peek inside the bellhousing if it's possible. I would hate to have to pull the trans on this car.

 

Ditto on that TA. Reading in my Haynes, says that most common leaks are from the shaft seals and the speedometer cable oil seal and o-ring. At least if need be you don't have to yank the motor to remove the tranny...although it still wouldn't be fun!

 

Last Thursday, draining and refilling the gearbox. Saw some spots a few days ago at a friends house.

Oh yeah, the gearbox takes 5 quarts of gear oil. wtfff.

 

Yep. And I use Royal Purple, somewhere around $15/qt...not a cheap fluid change, but definitely worth it!

 

Well I'm finally gonna replace my leaking clutch master cylinder, as adding fluid is getting old. But here's the interesting part. I can get the rebuild kit for $16 at AZ and use the old housing. Or I can get the whole shooting match for $18. Now what would you do?

 

I would go with a new one, less down time, and if nothing else pick up the rebuild kit and rebuild old one that way you have 2 good ones.

 

yea I use Redline MT90, nothing like dropping $70+ for a lube change but having a tranny with 200+k on it with no issues is priceless

 

my 88 max is still running like a champ, although I am still seeking the left A pillar with the clips intact, no 87-88 maximas here in my area, as a matter of fact no older maximas period in the salvage yards in this area

 

Vern, of course I'm gonna buy the whole new one! Just seems a little odd to me that the kit is almost as much, not to mention the disassembly of the old, making sure the old housing is good, etc.

Kinda like when I would get a leaky brake caliper on my old full size Blazer. Re-build kit? $19. Rebuilt caliper with all the stuff? $22. No brainer...

 

will be heading to the yard here in the next few weeks to look for parts for my 200 I'll see if I can find one for you, I want to see if I can find some SE seats for my 200 or maybe some 300z ones

 

Yesterday morning leaving for work, started the car up. Car would not go into first or second. Had to start off in 3rd, drove all the way to work getting off the highway I went to downshift into 2nd and it worked. Working normally since. Could it be the cold weather? It was in the 30s yesterday.

Although, I do hear some more whining from the trans ever since I changed the fluid. Should I start sourcing another trans? I think the input shaft bearing is on it's way out as well as the seal.

fackkkk

 

TA, how is the tranny going into R?

 

sounds like the input shaft bearing is on it's way out, what happens is the plastic bearing cover starts breaking up and then the plastic bits jam up the forks and don't let you go into 1 or 2nd, sometimes if you run though the gears that you can going into R a few times it will kick them out but they will be back in the way soon, sorry time to pull your tranny and replace bearings

 

THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I HAD TO DO FOR THE PAST TWO DAYS WHEN IT'LL ACT UP.

defkadsfmdsfkvsndkg

The transmissions from the third gen are the only direct replacements, right?

 

Car almost always refuses to engage first gear. I now have a dog leg 4 speed Maxima.

Starting off in second gear.

 

What about going into R first, then back to 1st? That would be a PITA at stoplights...

 

No matter what gear I shift into, then back into first. Doesnt engage it.

Is it only the third gen Trans that's a direct drop in?

 

yea other then 2nd gen tranny 3rd gen is the only other one that will work, and I think even the VE tranny will bolt right in but you might want to double check that I could be wrong

 

keep in mind if you keep driving it like that you will take the gears out and then it goes from replacing the bearings to replacing the gears sets

 

Vern, if TA gets another tranny, the above would be a moot point...wouldn't it?

 

depends if we want to be able to find trannys in the future, if we just keep roasting them then we will be running out and not have any rebuildable ones left....... well unless you want to buy a new one from nissan (if they even offer them any more)

 

Im gonna be replacing it regardless. Hopefully the transmission lasts until I can get my 86 4Runner running for the winter.

all these damn projects. sahdjiadhffsa


thanks for the info dude!

 

Good point, Vern...

 

Well, my little girl turned over to 193K today...counting until 200K! And I got my new clutch master cylinder, will install this weekend.

Other than that, she's fat, dumb, and happy!

 

So I swapped out clutch masters this aft...that was a treat! The cylinder is a piece of cake, but getting the goddam clevis pin back through the yoke and the clutch pedal arm? Jesus effin Christ! So I get it in...finally...take her out...hard shifting. OK, need to shorten the pushrod. Which means taking it all back apart! Shorten pushrod, get it installed, bled again...Guess what! Need to lengthen it!! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!

Third time was a charm. No more leaks and shifts beautifully. Personally, I don't now how someone with sausage fingers and big hands could ever get that clevis pin back in that secures the pushrod yoke to the clutch pedal...

 

yea that pin is a fun one, I have to change the one in mine it has a flat side I have a new pin but haven't decided to crawl under the dash yet and jam my hand up in her

 

happy thanksgiving to all!!!!

 

Transmission grenaded last night. It actually locked up twice. The shifter is stuck in first now, and nothing engages. PIcking up another trans tomorrow.

Any recomendations on getting the new trans freshened up? Im thinking changing, the input shaft seal, the two axle shaft seals, and putting a new clutch kit into it. I want something a bit heavier but I might settle on the OEM Exedy replacement because of the price.

 

TA, do you have a source on a "new" tranny? Hate to say it, but think mine is starting to show signs of wear. But it may just be the clutch. Sometimes smooth as silk. Sometimes balky, but not overly so, not like I have to force it into gear or something like that. Might do a tranny oil change with RP again, since I have 3 quarts unopened in my shop, see if that nets me anything.

If not, then I will get a donor, and do the half shafts while I have everything apart. CV joints have been clicking, hate to say it, for around 5 years now. Wonder when they are gonna give up the ghost!!

 

I bought the trans that thethorp had for sale. He has another one.

So I picked up the Transmission on Sunday, dropped it off to my cousin to pull it apart and check the internals on Monday. Spoke to him today, said everything looked good. We're just gonna go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing and the seal. I ordered all the bearings and seals the other night a long with a Exedy OEM clutch kit and the a new motor mount for the rear of the trans. Im thinking about filling it with Urethane adhesive to stiffen it up, but im worried if there will be lots of vibrations in the cabin.

Might pull the Trans outof the car this weekend as I wait for the new one to be completed.

 

Got the car home two nights ago. Just a little while ago I spent the better part of an hour and change trying to make sense of the airbox. I wish I could meet the person who designed it, and punch them in the jaw.

Thinking about deleting a bunch of the emission stuff attached to the air box, since im gonna go with a short ram intake. I just dont know what I can get away with deleting. I wish I had a shop manual to reference.

Anyone delete the vacuum valve on the air box? Its the one that injects fresh air into the exhaust.

 

So an update on the clutch master swap. Was fine for a couple weeks, but a little balky going into reverse. But then she started getting REAL balky into all gears...WTF? So, back under the dash yesterday to pull the pin (at least I know EXACTLY what position to get my body in so it's at least tolerable!) and take the new cylinder out. Thought, somehow, the jam nut on the pushrod had backed off...it hadn't. So I backed the clevis out about 3 turns, REALLY tightened up the jam nut, re-installed the cylinder...and she shifts beautifully!

Think it may be just chit "settling" in? You know, like when you do an initial torque, then come back after so many miles/period of time and re-torque?