93 MAX SE

Ok . . . I just bought my JDM VE30DE engine. After much research and shopping, I ended up getting mine from "Foreign Engine Exchange" in Seattle for $1100. They had good ratings by the Better Business Bureau and were even recommended by a couple of different shops.
I got quotes as high as $2100 from other engine importers.

I received it COD to Utah three days after I ordered it.

The engine looks clean, but I'll reserve judgment until I inspect some of the internals. Tomorrow (Sat) I'm going to start the swap. Right now I'm trying to decide just how many of the components to switch. Anyone with some recommendations on this would be helpful.

The engine place said I should only use the JDM long-block and switch over everything else. My thought . . . I want to use as much from the JDM motor as possible. Why take components off a 187k motor and put on one with 40k one. I don't have emissions testing where I live, so that's not an issue. Everything looks the same, and if it doesn't run quite right after the engine swap, there is nothing I can’t switch later, right?

I thought about servicing the VTC's before installing the new motor, but I think I'll wait to hear it run. If it ain't broke don't fix.

One thing I'm going to do is clean the oil galleys.

I'll add to this as I go.

Maximamike

Please post pics of the engine. Thank you.

Nismo87SE

First thing is swap all sensors with the US ones on your orginal engine. During my JDM SR20 swap the TPS, engine temp sensors aren't the same. My factory temp gauge doesn't work correctly now. If the VTC's seem fine then for alittle insurance replace all oil seals and possibly get the rebuild kit. Also replace all the exhaust manifold studs, knock sensor (unless both are fine). Other than the tune up stuff it should be ready to go. BTW clean the EGR valve and intake manifold.

EDIT: Replace the water pump and drive belts too. It is so easy to do it with the motor out.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yeah, what Ari said.

leave the main stuff on the "new" engine, and only replace the stuff that's different betwene us and JDM spec. I'm not sure which sensors are different, but if you temp sensor and MAF and other stuff like that are all working correctly, then leave well enough alone and swap them.. save the extras for later though.

MaDMaX024

JDM VE?

Shugarhi

iTrader: (1)

what is the difference between the jdm and us spec VE?

MaDMaX024

well for starters, i was always under the impression that the VE was a USDM only motor, meaning it couldnt have been JDM (unless its new from nissan made in japan, brand new).
someone please correct me if i'm wrong.

93 MAX SE

Quote from TOM:
"First of all, the VE30DE is not U.S. only. In fact, when the VE30DE came out in 1992, Nissan actually stopped installing the VG30E in the JDM J30 Maxima and made the VE30DE standard equipment on the Maxima. On the Type-A, Type-C and SE.

Type-A is an equivalent of our GXE, Type-C is like a GLE before there was a GLE, and the SE is about the same (slightly different grille).

Aside from the obvious RHD, some details differences on the JDM include 1) smaller tires - 205/60R15 89H 2) amber bumper lenses on the Type-C, woodtrim on the Type-C. Nissan didn't put rear drum brakes on any JDM Maximas.

Only problem is that these cars sold very slow in Japan. In the three times I've been there in the last three years, I didn't even see ONE J30 Maxima there (Camrys are rare there too)."

N34JZ

iTrader: (1)

hey keep us informed, Im gonna keep all of this info and give it to my mechanic when he does my swap, let me/us kknow of any problems you have.

MaDMaX024

what're the differences in motors?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Since it's JDM, it makes an extra 50hp over ours, straight out of the box.

93 MAX SE

Don't know . . . . .I'm hoping someone in Maxima.org knows. But, from the prior searches I have done, I will be one of the firsts to do the swap with a VE30DE. (At least one of the firsts on maxima.org)

As far as the US only theory, most of the engine importers did not have any JDM VE30DE motors in stock . . . . so they are rare.

One of the other reasons I went with this place out of Seattle is: they seem to really know there stuff. There were other importers that told me this engine was the same one as installed in a Pathfinder.

I ended up with a 1 yr warranty also.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

What makes this JDM differ from the US spec?
Cam profile
Ignition timing
Compression
Fuel timing
Injector size
Manifold/head design
ECU tuning
What is it, or all the above?

Also to see the fruits of your JDM spec motor, after you feel comfortable breaking it in (after sitting X amount of time) hopefully you'll put it on a chassis dyno. We're aware and firmiliar of what a mod/stock 5spd/auto VE makes at the wheel and with yours the numbers should be different. I'm not the one to always ask "What's the dyno number, what's the dyno number" but this JDM spec VE motor throwing me for a loop because I never really new one existed. Even though there's many other JDM and US spec motors for other make/model.

93 MAX SE

I guess there always is a possibility that this Tom (quoted above) guy is "full of it", and the engine importer is feeding me a line of crapola.

Is there a means to determine whether this is a real JDM motor I've got?real

James12345

Dont take this the wrong way, but what would be the point of using it over a USDM one? You want it just because it's JDM!?

I mean, it's the same engine, no? If nothing is different about it, why in the world you go through the trouble of getting a JDM one? There's nothing to gain over a rebuilt/low-mileage USDM one.

Everyone talking 'swap' reminds me of Honda guys, cept in this case, it seems to be the exact same engine rather than a bigger engine, higher compression, etc. Is it not the exact same engine?

Just trying to understand here...

dmontzsta

iTrader: (8)

ummm, bragging rights!?! I am too...

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

The whole idea behind any JDM spec motor is that they are suppose to be stronger, better, and more importantly has more hp than the US spec counterpart motor. Car makers who sell their cars/engines in the US has so much emmision regulations to abide by, while our JDM brothers may not have to.

93 MAX SE

Read the chat above and you'll understand why we're talking about it. Several people are saying there is no such thing as a JDM VE30DE engine.

The only reason it's important to me is: If I know I have a JDM engine, it increases the probability that it has low miles. It also means all the components on the engine have low miles. The engine I bought is dang near complete, with power steering pump, engine mounts, etc. I searched for an engine here in the states. Most of them had 125k plus.

One wrecking yard told me they had a 70k motor. They sent me in their yard to let me check it out. The engine was in a storage building on a rack. Rather than take their word for the miles, I figured I'd find the car it came out of. It had been rear ended, and was in the corner of their lot. The odometer showed 158k.

Can I trust the importer completely? No, but I increased my chances, with all the research I did. (read above)

My question to you is, why rebuild an engine with 187k on it? With that many miles I'll have to replace most of the other components to keep up with the new life-span of the engine. Why would you not want to buy a low mileage engine when you could get it with most of the low mileage components for less than the cost of the rebuild alone?

If I were going to beef-up my motor then I might have considered a rebuild . . . I can see the logic in that.

Maximamike

Do a search for "sha-ken" on your favorite search engine. You will find that a low mile JDM motor isn't all that its cracked up to be.

nismo280

I just completed a VE30DE swap in a 1992 SE... I can answer most any questions. The whole process was a pain in the A**, compared to my American car experiences. (Who ever heard of an engine that must be dropped out the bottom of the car?). Anyway, once the engine was physically in place, it was pretty straight forward, and it fired off on the fist turn of the motor.

The process took me 3 days, each day I spent over eight straight hours on it. I had to use practically every tool I own (that’s a lot of tools) to get to those tights nuts and bolts that were positioned by the Japanese so conveniently. Overall, I'm very happy with my work, and I guess I'd do it again if I had to.

Thanks to my prior experience, I was able to complete the project without a FSM, or even a Chilton's Manual. I'd recommend the .org before you go and buy a damned Chilton's Manual or Haynes Manual for something like an engine swap. They just don’t give much instruction.

I'm happy to answer questions.



Good Luck!!!
Tony

93 MAX SE

Tony:

There is a god!!!

Ok, I have my old engine out. I ignored the service manual (I did buy one) and pulled it from the top. It wasn't that bad. I had to remove the crank pulley, but when I did, there was plenty of room to slide the engine to the side, and pull it up. If you have a five speed, forget it, the shaft would make this impossible.

Now I have both engines sitting side by side on stands. I see very little differences, but it's hard to tell which things are diferent due to age or due to the JDM differences. My car is a 93. I'm guessing the JDM engine I bought is a 92. The importer didn't tell me the year, but it came with an R12 compressor. I read some where that Nissan switched to R34 compressors in 93. My car has an R34 unit.

Could you tell me what you took off your old engine, and moved to the JDM one? What parts you put on it new? (main seals, etc?)

Thanks in advance.

I'll post some pictures tonight, if I can figure out how.

Lordrandall

iTrader: (4)

It can be removed out from the top as well.

nismo280

Hi,

First off, I diddnt buy a JDM engine, it came out of another (1993) maxima.

From the old engine you will want to transfer:

A/C Compressor
Power Steering Pump
Engine and Transmission mounts

Depending on what your new motor has on it you'll have to take from your old motor to come out with a complete setup.


Tony

93 MAX SE

I did end up finding Art, another maxima.org bro who bought a JDM engine. We've been shooting email back and forth. Since there seems to be considerable interest in this JDM subject, I'll plug in sum of his comments.

First Quote from Al (2001):

"I just bought a used engine from a place called Japan Direct. It had around 30k. and arrived in great shape. I installed it myself and it is running great. $1600 for a ve30de."

Second (2002):
"The only thing I had to do was add some polution stuff off my other engine. By the way still have it and it is running strong.If you come across any problems e-mail me and I will try my best to help you Good luck, Art"


Back to the diary (9/17/02):
I worked on the engine exchange project a bit tonight. I switched some brackets and the power steering pumps. The unit on the JDM engine had speed-sensitive steering--mine didn't. I also noticed a few other differences that confirm it's a real Japanese motor, or at least a right-hand drive. Heater hoses, brackets, and the wiring harness, to name a few. Sure seems to be a clean engine. I'm trying to get it ready to install on Saturday, Sep 21.
(Still working on pictures)

93 MAX SE

(9/21/02):

Spent the entire day finishing up on the engine change. Late tonight I cranked it up. It seemed to run fine for a few minutes, no ticking, or any noise and the oil pressure was good.

I revved it a bit, only up to three grand or so, and the valve train began to clatter so I shut it off. I waited a few minutes and started it. Now the clatter is there all the time. I'm hoping it's just sticky lifters. I have no idea how long the motor may have been sitting.

I'm thinking about running some Marvel Mystery Oil through it tomorrow to see if I can get rid of the noise.

Anyone have some thoughts on this?

nismo280

you should have primed the oil pump before you started it... possible valvetrain damage. My reccomendation... pull the front bank's valve cover and inspect the head. Look for stuck valves, anything amiss must be fixed. simply turning the engine over a couple times, without letting it fire off is a great way to prime the oil system. Unfortunatly, it might be too late. I hope the best for you. If I were you, I'd take my reccomendation, and pull the cover... there is no harm in that ..


Good Luck!!!


Tony

93 MAX SE

I primed the oil pump. That was the last thing I did before starting the engine. I pulled all the plugs, cranked it several times, then put new ones in and fired it up.

93 MAX SE

Good News:

I drained a quart of oil and replaced it with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. I also put 16 ounces of Mystery oil in the fuel tank.

I started it and took it for a short drive. When I got back I had no engine noise what so ever. Since the engine was so clean inside, (I took off the oil pan earlier) I don't think it was sludge, I think the engine had been sitting for a long time and had some sticky lifters.

After double-checking everything again, I took it for a drive through the canyon. I must say . . . . . . . . . this motor flies. Don't know if it's a stronger runner than the US version, but it screams.

Overall, I'm happy with the final product.

N34JZ

iTrader: (1)

great news, Im glad to hear that, so you'd definateley reccomend this swap right

DaddyMac

JDM has an EGR valve

93 MAX SE

"great news, Im glad to hear that, so you'd definateley reccomend this swap right" (quote above)



Yes, I think it's hard to beat. For $1100 I have a low mileage engine that is pert-near complete, from the coils to the oil pump. Also, now I have a spare engine that I can rob parts from.

The next thing I may have to buy is a JDM transmission. Mine seems tight right now, but I'm fairly confident that the engine will out-last it.

I must say . . . . these 3rd gen Maximas have got to be one of the finest autos ever produced. I had 300k trouble-free miles with my last one. It's been a while (3 yrs) since that car. During this time I've had a Jetta, G20, Celica, and carpooled to work in a 4th gen Max......don't get me wrong, these are great cars, but the 3rd gen Max is better than great. The closest thing I've been in lately was an M3.

It was such a pleasure to drive this 93 SE after I put the new engine in. (remember, I bought the car with a fried motor)
3rd gen Maximas are very refined, well built, and engineered cars. They have a solid, tight feel, that I have only experienced in BMW's, Mercedes, Volvos, my 91-300zx TT, and just a few others. This solidity seems to have been lost in the later gen Max's.

Two weeks ago I took a new 5th gen Max for a test drive. It pains me to say this, but I left very un-impressed. It was definitely fast, but I felt like I was riding in a Chrysler product from the 80's. The car had 10 miles on it and already had rattles in the front end. The interior was cheap and road noise was very evident.

Not trying to bash other gen's of Maximas, just wondering if anyone else feels the same way.

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

so how many hp does this engine have?

nismo280

Congratulations

5spd92SE

http://www.freshalloy.com/site/featu...nes/home.shtml

N34JZ

iTrader: (1)

thats great to hear, Im at 191k but with 4 grand in new paint and body work and over 12k in other stuff, this cars got to go another 200+ Im gonna get mine from motorworks, its close so I dont have to worry about shipping, he qouted me at 1275. and I was thinking of doing the tranny later also.

when I do it Im going to get every bolt on mod(for the engine) i dont have, and have everything installed at once.

93 MAX SE

I have had problems with the engine since I last posted. Foreign Engine Exchange has ignored me. I would recommend buying from someone else.

N34JZ

iTrader: (1)

really like what?

93 MAX SE

The dreaded VTC knock

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

What does Foreign Engine Exchange has to do with the dreaded VTC knock? It's not their fault it's knocking, it's not your fault it's knocking. How many miles did you put on the engine before it started knocking? Unless they promise/warranty that it will not knock for X amount of miles, which is a long promise/warranty to begin with considering it's a common problem with the VE engine. Unfortunately you bought a used VE engine, regardless of it's origin JDM or USA base engine it's still a VE which equals dreaded VTC's. If internally the engine is still strong (comp, bearings, rings, etc) either ground, change or rebuild the VTC and enjoy your "JDM" engine

93 MAX SE

It was knocking right out of the box. The engine is warranteed for one year. I guess if its not their fault, and its not my fault, its just fate.

Yep, I guess your correct. What was I thinking? I can't expect people to honor their warranties. All that research I did to find good warranties was--for not. Thank you so much for clarifying this for me!