Rear Brake Installation Nightmare
Rear Brake Installation Nightmare
Let me just say that before attempting the rear discs, I read all the info via the search and the FSM. I sucessfully installed the fronts before, so I thought to finally attempt the rears.
I was installing Nissan pads with new Brembo rotors. Day 1, I skimped on purchasing the tool, and the stupid needle nose pliers did not work. Day 2, I finally bought the damn tool, and installed the driver's side pads (which were worn halfway). BTW, I had to bang the old rotor numerous times with a hammer for it to even budge.
The problem came, when I attempted the passenger rear side. I noticed the pads were down to the rivets, and the piston was out so far, that even with the tool, it simply would not turn. From an earlier thread, I heard someone say to open the bleeder valve to help the turn, and that did not work either.
Is there any other way that I can possibly push that piston in? What could be the reason that one side the pads are worn halfway while the other side they are down to the rivets?
Please give me your suggestions. Thanks.
I was installing Nissan pads with new Brembo rotors. Day 1, I skimped on purchasing the tool, and the stupid needle nose pliers did not work. Day 2, I finally bought the damn tool, and installed the driver's side pads (which were worn halfway). BTW, I had to bang the old rotor numerous times with a hammer for it to even budge.
The problem came, when I attempted the passenger rear side. I noticed the pads were down to the rivets, and the piston was out so far, that even with the tool, it simply would not turn. From an earlier thread, I heard someone say to open the bleeder valve to help the turn, and that did not work either.
Is there any other way that I can possibly push that piston in? What could be the reason that one side the pads are worn halfway while the other side they are down to the rivets?
Please give me your suggestions. Thanks.
Originally posted by Chris91SE
what is "the tool" you speak of?
for the pistons i just used vice grips...you have to turn the rear ones as opposed to just pushing them in like the fronts
what is "the tool" you speak of?
for the pistons i just used vice grips...you have to turn the rear ones as opposed to just pushing them in like the fronts
something like $5 at PepBoys
Re: Rear Brake Installation Nightmare
Originally posted by superdesi
Is there any other way that I can possibly push that piston in?
Is there any other way that I can possibly push that piston in?
What could be the reason that one side the pads are worn halfway while the other side they are down to the rivets?
Originally posted by pezking4
In the rear I had to use a lot of WD-40 to get the rubber seals lubricated enough to turn. Pull the seals back with your finger nails to get the WD-40 down inside there so it will turn, then it's easy.
In the rear I had to use a lot of WD-40 to get the rubber seals lubricated enough to turn. Pull the seals back with your finger nails to get the WD-40 down inside there so it will turn, then it's easy.
It sounds like it will work. [Pezking]...... was your piston frozen and did you use the cube tool or just pliers?
Also, what about putting a C-clamp on the piston, and then turning it with the tool.
Thanks.
Having different wear on either side is normal. Its because your breaking is not perfectly even. They dont push in the same. It happens on every car. Its normal. Just like the driver side suspension seems to have more things wear out first, than the other side. Dont worry.
whenever you have to "lube" the seals to get htem to move, you should use brake fluid on these parts. they're designed to work with brake fluid, and liquid wrench/wd-40 can be detrimental to the rubber and the seals can fail faster.
several things could be wrong with the brakes to cause stuff like that. for one, are all of the calipers bled correctly? If you have an air bubble in one side, it can cause the other side's pads to sear faster.
on another note, the right side pads on my wilwood calipers always wear out faster for some reason. it's possibly a brake bias thing from nissan, but to have one set worn 100% and the other only 50% is pretty weird.
make sure the caliper pins are sliding freely and there's nothing binding anywhere.
As for getting the piston back in, sometimes I had to push pretty hard on the piston while turning it to get it in there. If the piston isn't turning at all, then it's frozen. might take it to a mechanic of the dealer and see if they can get it apart so you can rebuild it. if not, you'll have to replace it. reman units aren't terribly expensive, but they're not cheap either. make sure you get one for YOUR year of car, as they changed several things on the rear calipers over the 3rd gen's life span.
several things could be wrong with the brakes to cause stuff like that. for one, are all of the calipers bled correctly? If you have an air bubble in one side, it can cause the other side's pads to sear faster.
on another note, the right side pads on my wilwood calipers always wear out faster for some reason. it's possibly a brake bias thing from nissan, but to have one set worn 100% and the other only 50% is pretty weird.
make sure the caliper pins are sliding freely and there's nothing binding anywhere.
As for getting the piston back in, sometimes I had to push pretty hard on the piston while turning it to get it in there. If the piston isn't turning at all, then it's frozen. might take it to a mechanic of the dealer and see if they can get it apart so you can rebuild it. if not, you'll have to replace it. reman units aren't terribly expensive, but they're not cheap either. make sure you get one for YOUR year of car, as they changed several things on the rear calipers over the 3rd gen's life span.
Originally posted by pezking4
no more using WD-40 to lube stuff guys!
no more using WD-40 to lube stuff guys!
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