Nmax92

WHAT'S UP MAX OWNERS, I HAVE A MYSTERY THAT NEEDS SOLVING. I DID SEARCHES ON THIS TOPIC, BUT COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. THE OTHER DAY I NOTICED A SCRAPING SOUND COMING FROM THE LEFT REAR OF THE CAR. I HAD A FEELING IT MIGHT BE MY BRAKE PADS AND I WAS RIGHT. WHEN I INSPECTED THEM I NOTICED THAT ONE PAD, THE ONE THAT IS ON THE TIRE SIDE OF THE ROTOR WAS WORN DOWN, BUT!! THE OTHER PAD WAS THICK LIKE I JUST PUT IT IN BRAND NEW. DOES ANYONE HAVE AN EXPLANATION AND SOLUTION ON THIS. I REALLY CAN'T KEEP BUYING BRAKE PADS. THE OTHER SET OF PADS ON THE RIGHT REAR ARE FINE THEY LOOK NEW ALSO. HELP!!!

wyskibumm

Definetly a problem. I got the same business only its on the left side. The pad is thin like a pancake, im talking maybe 5-6 mm. I dont know whats going on, but really soon im doing a brakejob and will make sure to bleed the brakes also. I'm sure that will even things out.

jwtarbaj

It sounds like your torque member is not sliding freely. Try lubricating the sliders with grease to improve it. The pad on the outside (tire side as you said) is the one that comes into contact with the caliper so it is getting pressed in. The torque member is what makes the other pad contact the rotor. If it is not sliding the pad will not wear!

P. S. TURN OFF THE CAP LOCKS PLEASE

Nmax92

Thanks for the info, I'll try what you said about the lubricating the torque member and turning off my caps lock.
I hope it works, the brakes I mean.

JDM4LIFE

iTrader: (2)

i'm not that bright on brakes (i did pass brakes class though, lol) but i know that means your caliper's sticking. you might have a warped rotor from the problem too. nonetheless, if the sound is going on all the time or at least a lot of the time, it's the caliper sticking. my sympathy goes out to you though. i know some places charge like $200 for a new rear caliper for my 98. jwtarbaj was talking about being able to repair the problem though, so i'd go that route first. i know a friend of mine and i were able to salvage my rear caliper. btw, make sure you lubricate the pads properly when you put new ones on. that's what was causing my problem. i kept having to go back to midas to get new brakes (only cuz they were free under their warranty). come to find out they were using, i believe it was, wheel bearing grease, yeah, NOT GOOD. that doesn't work properly and was scorching the caliper in the process. of course, they denied it oh well, that's why i do my own brakes now good luck!

jwtarbaj

It is true it could be the caliper too. I would also add that it is said the rebuild is pretty simple. I haven't had to do it yet but some reliable guys on the board have stated that it's a snap. And much cheaper than buying rebuilt calipers if one is seized. Remember whatever you do to one side you should do to the other too. Of course like JDM4LIFE said you should be sure to inspect the rotor(s) and make sure they are not a problem.

nstymax93

I had the same problem on my right rear and on the pad closest to the tire it wore through and started tearing up the rotor so i bought new pads and rotors for the rear and i got 2 Brembo solid rotors and Metal-Lux brake pads from nopi.com for under $100 (it was like $56 for 2 rear rotors and $25 for pads) and i love the new set up (front next!) especially because there is no more scraping sound!!!!

-Mike

jwtarbaj

I have $tillen X-drilled at al four corners with Axxiss pads. I love 'em. This Honduh guy I go to school with says "man you got like racing brakes or something!".

I like that they are clearly visible with my Z rims on! Don't let anyone tell you that X-drilled rotors are bad. I've had them for 40K and no problems. I think it has to do with the driver.