What you will need for a turbo setup to do it properly...


1) Turbo of your choice preferably... T3, T4, T5, T60-1, or T3/T4 Hybrid all usually are made by Garrett no matter who you buy them from, the other companies just slab their name on the turbo minus some high performance HKS GT style turbos

2) Some sort of wastegate, either internal, or an external one like those made by Greddy/Trust, HKS, Blitz, etc.

3) Blow off Valve made by your choice of manufacturer HKS, Blitz, Greddy/Trust, Apexi, etc.

4) (Don't have to have but recommended!!!) Intercooler that can handle at least 20psi and has been pressure tested to those specs at least and at least as big as the one I am selling that is 18x8x3 (long x wide x thick) some manufacturers are Spearco, Sparco, Trust/Greddy, Hks, Blitz, etc.

5) Custom piping including crossover piping, etc. (CALL ME FOR ME Info!!!)

6) Some sort of really good cone ffilter intake (I recommend The Gracier Airinx, or K&N style, but APC works too)

7) at least 2.5" diameter exhaust complete from downpipe back

8) Larger injectors at least 91-96 Twin turbo Stock 300zx, 370cc injectors (complete set of 6)

9) Custom ECU either JWT or something else to accomodate new Injectors, etc.

10) (Not Needed but can be helpful if higher boost is desired!!!) Boost Controller from manufacturer such as Blitz (like my Blitz DUal SBC), Greddy/Trust, HKS, Apexi, etc.

11) (Not Needed But Highly recommended!!!) Turbo Timer or included in ECU reprogramming

12) (FOR HIGH BOOST!!!) I recommend a complete engine rebuild with lower compression JE pistons, or Topline Pistons, Cams, and so on lowering compression to either 9:1 or 8:5:1 (CALL FOR MORE INFO!!!)

13) (You MUST HAVE THIS!!!) At least a Centerforce Dual Friction, or ACT Street Disk Clutch kit upgrade, recommend the ACT 6 Puck or 4 puck clutch it setup for aggressive drivers!

14) (Recommend but not a definate need!!!) AASCO 11 lbs Flywheel, or Unorthodox 11lbs Flywheel, or Stillen 11 lbs Flywheel all are the same genreally unless Unorthodox, or Stillen actually has their own makes in stock (USUALLY They don't!!!)

I believe that is it, but if I think of anything more I will let you know! If anyone has any questions please contact more or if by some chance I forgot to list something chime in!

The Edge Productions

Jared Seymour - OWNER
3449 Lannette Lane
Lexington, KY 40503
USA
Phone: (859) 224-9551
Email: TheEdgeProductions@yahoo.com
Website: http://Geocities.com/TheEdgeProductions/

 

This might DEFINITELY be info worth saving. Especially for everyone that keeps asking the same ol' questions about doing THEIR cars. Thanks, Jared.

 

Don't forget the bigger fuel pump from a TT Z car or Walbro inline unit? Make sure you pick the proper TURBO cam. There are some neat little (and $10 cheapo) manual boost controls..bleeder style. They work well for alot less $$. And everyone should know that you can run TT rods and pistons in their VG or VE. Extra insurance on the bottom. Our cranks are good for 400hp reliably. Even stock VG rods are good for the same. If you have a lower mile engine but want to freshen it up without all the machine work, throw in new bearings throughout and platigauge the clearances. Know that our VG and VE engines don't leave much material for things like align honing/boring, overboring the cyls, milling the block and heads.
Use Nismo HKS (?) or other copper head gaskets..indestructable and reusable. Nice little feature is our crank bearing cap is one piece and is one reason why the stock bottom end is so damn strong. Check it out. Domestics use custom made parts for features like this..ahh thoughtful Nissan engineers.

 

very good points... this same thread is also in the general forum as well so keep an eye out on it there too! SprintMax and I have talked some already on there.

Jared

 

where can the copper head gaskets be gotten from? i may put some on my turbo engine.

 

Pretty sure NIsmo and HKS, but Paeco makes them too, for any engine. I have never compared prices, but generally they can be had in various thicknesses to slightly alter compression ratio. Check www.z31.com for this, those guys use them all the time. Eliminates the fear of blowing a head gasket for good!

One more note to this thread..water injection is something to consider, especially if you want to forgo the IC in the beginning. Relatively easy and inexpensive. I plan on doing this to simplify the install at the start. Save me some loot and get a working turbo system in there in less time. Keep in mind the 10-12 psi is max boost on a VGT witha T-3 with no IC. If you don't plan on going highr than that initially, this is something to keep in mind. Also, a sneaky trick is to mix some ethanol with water and run that in the water injection system...extra protection against knock and gives some power.

 

This info however interesting is misleading in alot of ways.
1) Bigger injectors is not necessarily needed.
2) Turbo seletion should be based on boost/engine size/compression etc.... not just a haphazard selection
3) Alot of that info is pretty standard though.

Why do we have to call you for the info? How about just posting it?

This post is "almost" an ad. If there is more "call me" or "I have xxx for sale" posts, it's going bye-bye. We have a for sale section for this stuff.

 

Bigger injectors are a real good idea. If you are going through all the trouble to turbo a traditionally NA car, you probably want more power..alot more. The stock injectors will be a major limiting factor and only good for a few psi.. LEt's look at it this way. The stock VGT 330cc injectors max out at under 300hp. Ours are 178cc I believe, so they are not very good for TC, unless you add an addtional injector system. Lean conditions will occur otherwise.

But I do agree, it just depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you just want to turbo a totally stock VG, it can be done, just don't expect tremendous gains. And I does sound like an ad..sneaky

 

Whyy you have to call is because I am sick and tired of answering BS emails, there is only so much help you can give for free, and this was meant to be for those on here tha may not know anything, as for the bigger injectors i believe I mentioned this was recommended but not required. As for the Turbo selection it all will of course go into the size of your engine, and everything else! This was just as I said earlier a basic compilation of crap to make a turbo setup, not how to do it, or specifically what parts to get, just a suggestion GOOD GOD!!!

Jared

 

The ve injectors are at least 270 I believe. I think we can run to about 280ish hp(consertive) on the stock injectors. The 4-gen guys are running more than that on their stock injectors. IMHO, that's about the most you would want to run on a high mileage high compression VE anyway. So my question is why run some big injectors when you are already limited on the boost you can run due to the motor's compression and condition?

If you run the big injectors, you might as well rebuild the motor.

 

Exactly what I will do.

 

Why not just list the info in the for sale and when people give you those "bs" emails, refer them to that post?

 

IMO a recirc valve will be easier to "use" on a "custom" MAF before boost setup than an open atmosphere BOV and fuzzy logic boost controllers are for sissys

and oh yeah...a T60 in Max....I'll be waiting for that

 

How bout a Datsun 810, oh, and make that a T66. Thats a L28 but GReddy/Trust makes a T66/T78 VG-T manifold for the VGT. Hmm..

 

Really? A T66/T78 would be insane. Laggy I'm sure, but in a fwd, that will only help on a lauch. If you are running a big turbo like that you'll need all the traction off the line you can get.

 

Newsflash. The old Datsun 810s and 710 for that matter were RWD and used the Z's inline 6. I don't thing the L28s were stock. My bro's older 710 had a L24 or L26. These were basicly Z sedans. Same motor, same suspension, IRS A-arm suspension blah, blah.

 

I was reading about that on Z31.com...thats like the "mystery T-66 manifold" this guy had pics of one but the post was old so the pics were gone you got any pics of it??

 

Update..I wasn't referring to the Datsun cars.. I know they were inline sixes with RWD, and I know they shared many Z car components. I was referring to a T60 or T78 boosted Maxima. Ever see the first gen Maxes with an inline six..they were 810's rebadged, basically. In fact I think they had both nameplates on them. I drove one that looked ****ty bu that little inline six pulls nicely at the upper rpm range.

 

the maxima started as a type of 810. like we have the gxe's, se's, and now gle's the 810 had Maxima as one of the trims. Then when they converted to the v6 fwd car it jsut became the Maxima. that's what i read somewhere

 

You all are confused. There is a 810 that will be running a T66 + direct port soon. This is all custom. Now, GReddy/Trust does make a T66/T78 manifold for the VG30ET, it is very rare, and it is very available if you know the right people. Carry on with your mindless arguments.

 

they should run the t66/t78 on a vg33, get it to spool just a little quicker.

 

I'm not confused. 810 has an inline 6 L28 right? RWD right? Z car underpinnings right? Direct port? That is confusing. Not doubting it, but it takes special injectors, heads and major fuel pump/pressure to do that. This crap is still cutting edged in the commercial market. Not too many direct injection cars on the road to day..mostly diesels. Tell me more.

 

You should switch out all the top end stuff on to a VG33 block, custom pistons!! I mean, you'r going through all the trouble to build a turbo max, you might as well go all out! You could get a decent VG33 (all you need is one with a healthy block basically) pretty cheap.

 

the 810's came with a l24 or l26 i believe. they also had a ld28, turbo diesel 2.8 liter.

i just want to get the engine in there for now and later down the road when i get suspension, brakes, and tranny upgrades to handle the power i'll start cranking some hp out of it

 

150 shot direct port nitrous kit. Drive through.

 

the same guy??

 

Yeah, I feel the same way. That's why I'm anticipating non-IC to start. I would like to get the bottom end DONE so I won't be yanking it more than once. Spend the money from the inside out know what I mean?. The gains from .3L increase won't be huge..Keeping the whole thing as close to Max orignial as possible will keep it simple. Are the crank snouts on the VGT different than our NA versions? Take a look. That could complicate accesory drives, but I'm sure there is a combination that will allow you to keep the factory setup. It is nice that these engines share parts. It allows you to mix and match to get what you want. What are you going to do to freshen up the VGT? Rod bearings are relatively easy and good insurance. I have heard that stored motors tend to spin rod bearings on the occasion when first started.

 

Someones gotta rep it for the underground.

 

i'm hoping to not have to tear the engine down for a while. i'm waiting to get the engine back from my friend's house but he won't go get a engine hoist like he was supposed to so i have to sit and wait... i'm never going to get it done by then end of the month now.

 

OK direct port NOS. Thanks for clearing that up your highness.

 

Anytime, jigga man.

 

You make me laugh bro.

 

At least someone here loves me..

Hahaha..

 

Umm, I wouldn't say that, just find your comments entertaining

 

Yeah, just try and find one.... if you were to find one, it would likely cost you what a custom one would. the closest I got to finding one was finding pics of it..haha and then I gave up.

 

I dont know, but are you going to start selling a turbo kit edge? it seems you would prefer to answer a bunch of BS emails than a bunch of BS calls???

 

Why would be it easier? On a VE atleast the MAF is fairly cose to the TB and you'd have a lot of piping from the intake charge to place a blow off valve.

 

my guess is unless the ECU can recognize it...the opening of the BOV would simulate an "air leak" situation. just like when you have an air leak after the MAF on a N/A car...this is just my guess though...and I've heard of this happening on other custom setups where stalling would occur.

 

I don't see how the blow off valve being before the maf sensor would cause the ecu to read a leak. MY 240sx..erm 250sx is being done this way and I Was assured the "blow through MAF" setup works fine. I guess I'll find out the hard way if it doesn't

 

on the Maxima setup, the BOV doesn't go before the MAF....on all of the Max setups so far it goes....

FILTER-->MAF-->TURBO--(**BOV**)-->TB ....see what I mean??

I used to think "blow thorugh MAF" too, but now that I've seen these new setups on the 4th gens and on Max O/Ds 3rd gen, I'm leaning towards the above setup....

edit: and I think I also remember Nigel mentioning some stalling when he first began running the setup with an open atmosphere BOV, not sure how he solved it...