So here is what is happening (or is not). I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction.

The battery light indicator kept coming on for about two weeks but very dim. After I drive for a while the light would eventually turn off. So I’m thinking, need new battery. I take the max on a road trip (about 550 miles round trip)! Everything okay… light goes out eventually like always.

Then (two weeks later) this past weekend really strange problem. I drive to the store (approximately 5 min) and the light is unusually bright. The light goes slightly dim when I get to the store. Also the stereo sounds like the amps are not getting enough power (original factory BOSE). When I go to turn the car back on it did not start easy. Almost back home, stop at an intersection and the car starts to die! I put it in park and give it some gas. Still wants to die. I finally get it home during which the acceleration is very sluggish, especially when I try to boost over 2500 RPMs.

Now the car won’t start until after sitting for about 12 hours. The battery has an 11.7 V charge when off. I’ll test it while running (if it starts) later today.

The alternator was just replaced about 8 months ago so wtf?

Maybe it is the alternator judging from:

Battery indicator lighting up
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=129322

Bad battery and/or alternator
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=151779

Any ideas??

 

ALTERNATOR. Your battery is dead because your car was trying to run on the battery alone. The "flickering" battery light usually means the brushes went south in your alternator. However, its always best to test the alternator before you go replacing it.

If you replaced the alternator 8 months ago, it should have a warranty on it. Check into that too.

 

Its Definitely your alternator. i had the same problem but didn't trust goin on a long roadtrip.. I drove for a while with the light slowly coming on and disappearing but eventually it won't start up..

 

yup.. what they said. been there, done that. change the alternator.

 

New alternator. At least that is not too serious, though expensive . I'll whip out my trusty Haynes manual and test the alternator tonight.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

You bet. Any warranty on the previous ALT?

 

just changed mine the other day (saturday), got it from Pep boys with a lifetime warranty 2.5 years ago and replaced it for free this weekend!...not a tough job and not that expensive

 

Yeah I think I still have the reciept for the warrenty.

I checked the battery again with a DVM. It has a 11.75 V charge. Started the car (did not start easy). Tested the voltage from the wires connected to the battery terminals. It tested at 10.5 V. From the other forum posts it should be at least 13 V right?

I turned it off and tried to start again but it won't start at all with a 11.75 V charge--the starter does click. Shouldn't 11.75 V be enough to at least start (with lights and stereo off). I did not see anywhere in the Haynes manual where this was specified.

If anything, I'll just try and replace it Thanks for your input guys.

 

Have you tried a new battery cause if you just replaced the alternator 8 months ago did you replace the battery too. I had the same problem. Got a new alternator and had to replace my battery too cause it wouldnt hold a strong charge anymore. Plus are your amps hooked up right maybe they are draining your power out of your battery while the car is off. These are just some ideas, I went thru what you are doing now and its crazy. Good Luck Man

 

This is a good point. It could be BOTH items, compliments of your ALT.

 

I have had the same problem!! I have a audio system in my 89 max about 950 watts, so I have put strain on my alternator until some additional electrical components. I would say also, check the alternator while running with a load tester it should be 14.4v turn on the headlights and see if the voltage drops? It should only drop like to 13.8 but then jump back up. If it drops down to 12V or lower time for a alternator. Also, check the battery while the car is off to check the voltage hold in the battery? It should be 12v if it isn't ya car will have difficulty starting in the cold because the voltage drops in cold weather slightly, but if the alternator isn't charging fully then you wont be putting a full charge back in!!! Is your battery a maitance free one? or do you need to add fluid? make sure one of the cells isn't going bad? I had a problem like that with Sears where I had purchased a diehard battery. The techs kept saying that my alternator was bad and was over charging because my battery was leaking from one of the cells. So I went to another Sears and had it checked it was the battery not my alternator!!!! So, check all of my suggestions? Hope it helps!!! Since I changed the battery no probs since!!!!

 

Yep, the Car Quest alt was defective and under warrenty. The new alt works! Battery ok.

 

"I love when a good plan comes together."

Pop quiz: Who said that? Hint: 80's TV show.

 

Glad to hear that man good luck with everything else

 

Glad to hear you got everything working now!! Just another note keep a eye on the new alternator because nine times out of ten the place where you got the alternator from will not fully overhaul the alternator they will just fix what is broken, like the brushes or the regulator. So, just keep a eye on things!!!

 

You know I have this same problem. I have taken the alt to have it checked. They (Pep Boys) put it on thier bench and bam 14.45 volts.I put it on with a new belt, put in 4 guage wires on the ground from the alt, and a 0 guage from the batterey to the body along with the engine block and still no charge. I purchased an optima yellow top and still same problem. I checked the voltage at the alt's connectors while in the car running and........... 11.5 and dropping. Took it back to the store and it reads 14.45.
WTF ?????????
My only thought is that the alt is failing when under a load and appears normal without one. But I'm not sure what type of load the machines use at PepBoys. I'm pretty sure they test them under what would be a normal vehicle electrical load. I think I'm just going to replace the alt any way and see what happens.


WTF

 

Might try a volt meter while the car is running. I tested my ALT with a digital volt meter (DVM) on the battery cables.

 

5spd: the Leader guy from the A-Team

 

You must have been born in 1981.

 

We have a winner!

 

what's the prize, a new toaster?

 

Actually the correct answer is

Who is Hannibal from the A-Team television series.


And I tried the votlmeter at the alt.

 

How about a 92SE?


(for a small fee of $3000)

 

Try 1975

 

I'm sure that 3 grand is just for shipping and handling, yes?

I kinda like my 94SE personally

 

You got it!