I'm gonna try this one out. I take full responsibility for my engine.

At this point I can't find my Service manual . Which harness goes to the knock sensor? Is it the one on the right side of the engine near the crank angle sensor with two wires?

I think the colors were black and white.

Thanks.

 

The knock sensor harness connector is near the red circle in the pic below.



You will see the wire lead into the middle of the engine block. That will be the KS sub harness. Unplug that connector, then plug the resistor in the female connector. One lead of the resistor will go in one hole and the other lead will go in the other hole of the connector. Make sure the two resistor leads do not EVER touch. Fold the resistor wires to make sure there isn't enough wire left in order to touch one another.

I would suggest only using this for testing purposes. I did this for about 1K miles and found out that it did make a huge difference. I will replace my KS soon. I now went back to my stock setup. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks.. I assumed that was the correct one because of where it went, and what I already knew about it. Every radio shack in the entire city is missing bin 6 of drawer A-3 which of course is the 470K ohm resistor. Lucky for me I have a stash of components in the garage.

 

the Knock Sensor Bypass works. After doing this I noticed much better response from the car even after it has warmed up compared to the powerless low end before. This would be a temporary fix for me till summer when I can actaully change the knock sensor.

BTW..you can;t be an individual 470K resistor at Radio Shack..it
a $1 and you get like 6 or 7.

 

maybe we could get some kind of group deal on this and split up the big pack since we'd each only need one
who's in?


Like Aaron said, this should only be a temporary thing and not long term. I'd be careful about running it from now until summer like that.

 

I bought a 470K resistor just today and put it in. The car is noticeably better. It bothers me that the idle is still low and uneven and sometimes it stalls out, but when it is actually running there's a noticeable improvement.

 

I would be in if there was a group deal. Also we should think about replacing the harness also. I believe most people have said that theirs were corroded.

 

i just did this after i read the post and it definitly works i also plan on replacing my ks this summer but im leaving mine with the resister till then im tired of somtimes being able to run 14's and most other times only 16's you VE guys know what i mean

 

I was kidding about the group deal on resistors. As for the actual knock sensor, you can get it from Courtesy Nissan for a pretty good price

 

lol, I was thinking about that, and the stamp to mail the things would cost more than the savings of the group deal.

glad you were kidding though. it kinda blew my mind.

 

on KS. They are expensive for a small part. But a group dela on KS and harness would be great.

 

The KS is'nt what goes bad its just corroded contacts on the the KS that lead to the really high resistance. What you should do is get the new sub harness that is available for the KS (and clean the KS really well or just go ahead and replace it too), the part number is in one of the stickies I believe.

 

I understand the KS contacts and connector corroding (and maybe the sub-harness dieing in the heat) but don't the KSs "soften up" over time too?

 

I finally bypassed my knock sensor last Saturday. Been driving it for a couple days, and it completely cured my problem!!!

No more hesitating and cutting out! It just runs smooth, the way it's supposed to be! Good news and bad news, I suppose, because that means I have to save up $$$ to repair that sucker someday... But I'll keep it the way it is for the time being. I think there's little chance of knocking with temperature this low and timing at stock setting (and 92-octane gas, always.) Come summer and 90 degrees weather, with A/C on, I'm not sure... But hopefully it'll be fixed before then.

BTW it has never knocked since the K/S bypass.

Oh, why is knocking so bad for our engines anyway? Older engines, especially small Japanese car engines, knock all the time, if you give them too much gas or at too high a gear. Don't seem to affect their reliability...