need4pwr

Hey,

I've been looking at previous post about these brake information. Currently i have the x-drilled brembo with axxis pads, but i need new pads now. anyway, these rotors are now warped. i'm not sure how they warped but they also have hairline cracks. I drive pretty fast and am always heavy on the brakes. Which rotor and pad combo would be best for me? i called Ricambisport and they offer the x-drilled/slotted rotor. They are not Brembo, they are if i remember "SB rotors". I think the combo of the x-drilled and slotted will help, i'm not sure. Also, they have Remzo semi-metallic pads, should i use those or go for the Axxis Metalmasters. Please help! thanks in advance!

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Normally I would recommend cryo-treated blank Brembo rotors, but being aware or your reputation that's probably not a good idea....

Also, I would normally recommend doing this getting parts from carparts.com, but that probably won't work as well...

My opinion is you need to go all Porterfield....rotors/pads/everything.....ALL the way around front and rear....

Participate in the <A HREF="https://maxima.org/forums/showthread.phtml?threadid=20484">group deal</A> for Porterfield pads on all 4 wheels for $118.

Also, order rotors from them if you want them x-drilled again. Part number should be JBR505 for each of the front ones ($70 each) and, if your rears are warped also, JBR506 for each of the rear ones ($61 each). This number is nothing more than Brembo's actual part number for their rotors, so these are nothing more than Brembo blank rotors (which is a good thing). Then, tell Porterfield you want at least the front rotors cross-drilled AND cryo treated. This will cost more than the rotor itself (each service is $40 extra), but you will have a hard time stress cracking/warping these rotors with the cryo-treatment.

This will cost $$$ from Porterfield, but should be worth it. Just getting front and rear brake pads and x-drilled/cryo treated front rotors will probably run you $350 to $400....

But, if you don't like a lot of dusting, or want to go a cheaper route without x-drilling, then get Metal Masters on the front and rear from carparts.com, searching for the following part numbers:

Front Brake Rotor: JBR-505 $45 @carparts.com

Front Brake Pads:
Metalmaster: 23-430-01 $47 (Recommended)

Rear Brake Rotor: JBR-506 $35 @carparts.com

Rear Brake Pads:
Metalmaster: 23-540-01 $46 (Recommended)

As for the rotors, there are companies such as http://www.onecryo.com that will cryo-treat rotors you send them, but don't off x-drilling services for $25 per rotor. So, you could order the rotors from carparts.com (using the handy $30 off $100 purchase coupon on http://www.importhookup.com) and ship them directly to onecryo for treatment (contact one cryo if you want to do this to make arrangements). This will stop that nasty warpage...

That's the short version...a longer version will be on .org in the near future....

FAST4EN

We've had a huge discussion on the 3rd gen board about this. Matt has cracked the hell out of his brembos and put his stock ones on for now. I think that you should go with the slotted on the front if you do the type of braking that you do. Slotted will still cool quickly, but not like the x-drilled. As for the rear, if the ones that you had on there didn't crack , then stay with x-drilled on the back, otherwise, just get slotted rears too, or blanks, since about 75-80% of the braking is done with the front brakes anyways.

Pads? Maxi-Pads...hehe..j/k.. Go with Axxis Metalmaster, you can get a good price from http://www.ptuning.com on them there. I had the metalmaster's on mine and had no problem.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

the only thing I can add to bill's comments is to check and make sure your calipers don't need rebuilt (According to Avalong Racing after my 1/2 hour conversation yesterday), the calipers can be causing some of that, even though they look fine.

but then again, yours are warped too.. mine didn't warp- they just cracked on the outside surface only.

when you install the rotors, make sure the hub surface and the inside edge of the rotors are completely clean.. use brake cleaner and a wire brush, if necessary to get it clean..
make sure your wheel hubs are also in good shape.. if the wheel bearings are worn/bad, it can cause nasty problems there also.

for recommendations on what/where to buy, I highly recommend goign with anything that Bill mentioned.
Also the stillen Slotted rotors or Powerslots are worth taking a look at. they might warp if treated badly, but they shouldn't ever crack.
both powerslot and stillen rotors are made form the same core (the JBR-505 that Bill mentioned)..
then they're plated with a cadmium coating.. there's a slight difference in the methods and coatings, but they're both of a cadmium base and should perform exactly the same.

Stay away from Powerstop drilled rotors.. Powerstop is NOT the same company as Powerslot. Powerstop will use any blank rotors they can get their hands on. they'll use cheap tiwanese crap if the price is right.. (no offense to any tiwanese people, but your steel stucks.)

need4pwr

Alright,
Thanks alot for your help. I was thinking of doing the Porterfield rotors, but the total for the cryo and x-drilled is a lot. $140.00 per rotor, but i guess you get what you pay for, so i'm still debating. Where could i get x-drilled brembos for cheap, then i would send them to get the cryo? Then i would do Axxis metal masters, cuz i hate the dusting too.

mike_12_27_77

Would it hurt stock rotors using these "performance" brake pads or does it just give better braking power?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

As long as the stock rotors are in good condition, it'll be fine to put axxis pads on them.. many people use this combination with great results. Just keep in mind these are very aggressive pads and will wear out your rotors faster than stock pads. I'm not saying it'll be 3 weeks and you have to buy new rotors, but just be aware that you will get to buy rotors more often if you use a pad like Axxis, or any other metallic pad.