Something weird happened and then went away (long)
06-22-2003, 10:18 AM
#1
Something weird happened and then went away (long)
Yesterday and for a couple of days its been raining pretty hard, maybe the rain could be the culprit. So I get into my car and start it up to warm it up and I turn on my headlights (HID's) and close the car. Then 5 minutes later I go to the car and when my brother opens the door the car surges and I'm like "what the hell was that" but the rpm went up immediately so I thought nothing of it. So I drove the car home and then at a light I back up to look at something and then I move forwards took it out of gear and waited for the green light, when I let go of the clutch I notice that its not going anywhere because my car turned off and I didn't notice it (no dash lights nor shaking), so I turned the key and it turned on immediately and then drove home with no problems. Now I'm driving to a friends house to a party yesterday in the heavy rain, I'm at a light and I take off and the car just dies on me so it rolls to the side and I turn it on again and I got to my friends house with no problems. Then at my friends house I decide to look at everything and everything seems fine, all the connection and hoses look fine, I took out my intake assembly and the throttle body looked clean and put everything back and went for a drive now I stepped on it hard, firts gear no problem when I put it in second and released the clutch the rpm climbed and then like at 3,000 it jerked and then kept on pulling like it wanted to turn off but I think I had enough speed for it not to. So I put the car in my friends garage and then later on drove it home, the rain had stopped for a while then and I drove it pretty quick on the highway and no problems whatsoever I turned the A/C, rear defroster to see if it would surge and nothing happened the car felt perfectly fine. I just did the clutch and flywheel and the fluid was fine. I drove it last night for a long time and no problems so this isn't worrying me that much.
If any you guys have any input on what it is I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Diego
If any you guys have any input on what it is I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Diego
06-22-2003, 05:06 PM
#7
Originally posted by Maximan190
yea i took that pic
yea i took that pic
well its supposed to be nice this week, so I guess if the problem goes away completely it had something to do with the monsoon
06-22-2003, 10:26 PM
#11
Originally posted by Maximan190
your car sees rain?!
your car sees rain?!
So my question is should I go ahead and change the MAF or wait for it to get worse or possibly better.
06-22-2003, 10:29 PM
#12
Originally posted by D-sta
I say it again, Jason has a "garage princess"
So my question is should I go ahead and change the MAF or wait for it to get worse or possibly better.
I say it again, Jason has a "garage princess"
So my question is should I go ahead and change the MAF or wait for it to get worse or possibly better.
what did i tell you, wait it out and see 
maybe your car just doesnt like all this rain and it wishes it could be a garage princess too
06-25-2003, 04:30 PM
#13
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7
Here my ideas
k I seem to be having the same prob, whenever it is raining or foggy, guess the moisture screws around with my car. Right now Im changing the spark plugs, and checking spark plug wires. There could also be water inside the distributor cap, either way check the spark plugs because maximas hate them, the wires maybe, and the ditributor cap. I will tell ya if the spark plugs do the trick for me
06-25-2003, 06:20 PM
#14
I don't have wires or a distributor but my coils can be what is causing the problem. Thanks for the input but my problem has not occured at all for a while now but I am planning to change the 6 coils.
06-25-2003, 07:22 PM
#15
Originally posted by D-sta
I don't have wires or a distributor but my coils can be what is causing the problem. Thanks for the input but my problem has not occured at all for a while now but I am planning to change the 6 coils.
I don't have wires or a distributor but my coils can be what is causing the problem. Thanks for the input but my problem has not occured at all for a while now but I am planning to change the 6 coils.
06-25-2003, 11:59 PM
#17
Originally posted by crazy4maxima
hrrm.. is it the 100k miles syndrome?
WTF is up with our ve crew, we all having problems.
hrrm.. is it the 100k miles syndrome?
WTF is up with our ve crew, we all having problems.
as for mine; the only complaints i can give as of presently...
- its been very sluggish in the heat but the pulley should take care of that
- my exhaust is still running rich and have no clue why
06-26-2003, 12:04 AM
#18
so far my mile per tank is goin gto the shiet. it went from being 370 from that day at the meet to 180 last time, and now its down to 160, wtf is going on. atleast my vg kept it in the 280+ range
06-26-2003, 11:16 AM
#20
how does it idle?
if it's MAF it usually idles poor..or shaky. while the car is running use the handle end of a screw driver and tap the MAF..if you see the engine shutter or misfire it's a good sign it's the MAF.
also how's your O2 sensor? MPG ok? or has it been getting worst?
if it's MAF it usually idles poor..or shaky. while the car is running use the handle end of a screw driver and tap the MAF..if you see the engine shutter or misfire it's a good sign it's the MAF.
also how's your O2 sensor? MPG ok? or has it been getting worst?
06-26-2003, 11:47 AM
#21
Originally posted by D-sta
All these problems what the hell.......it happened for a day and went away. If anything you have a problem which is that Auto Tranny
All these problems what the hell.......it happened for a day and went away. If anything you have a problem which is that Auto Tranny
06-26-2003, 01:26 PM
#22
Originally posted by DanNY
how does it idle?
if it's MAF it usually idles poor..or shaky. while the car is running use the handle end of a screw driver and tap the MAF..if you see the engine shutter or misfire it's a good sign it's the MAF.
also how's your O2 sensor? MPG ok? or has it been getting worst?
how does it idle?
if it's MAF it usually idles poor..or shaky. while the car is running use the handle end of a screw driver and tap the MAF..if you see the engine shutter or misfire it's a good sign it's the MAF.
also how's your O2 sensor? MPG ok? or has it been getting worst?
06-26-2003, 01:38 PM
#23
My Max does the same thing. It would jerk and the other day it died on me while I was crossing an intersection, I had to roll through to the other side. I don't think mine is the MAF though, I've checked it out countless times and cleaned the conections. But I don't know what the O2 sensor does or if it would cause these problems. Anyone??
06-26-2003, 02:08 PM
#24
Well its been pretty good and actually yesterday I took it to the shop and hooked it up to the snap-on modis tool and it showed no signs of anything. Oh well hopefully whatever it is will cause it to make the check engine light to come on or hopefully something can blow up.
06-26-2003, 02:28 PM
#25
Originally posted by D-sta
Danny ,the idle is fine its just when in gear and picking up speed all of a sudden it just jerks and then keeps on going. It hasn't done it but I want to have an idea of what it could possibly be if it happens again. Also in the morning when its warming up in the morning when it reaches 1000rpm, it shakes a little and then goes back to normal. Also today I was at the light and I was watching the rpm, then I saw it drop by itself and I gave it gas before it could die and there was no shaking or any sign of anything it just wanted to die. Tonight I'm going for a spirited drive to see if it will fix it.
Danny ,the idle is fine its just when in gear and picking up speed all of a sudden it just jerks and then keeps on going. It hasn't done it but I want to have an idea of what it could possibly be if it happens again. Also in the morning when its warming up in the morning when it reaches 1000rpm, it shakes a little and then goes back to normal. Also today I was at the light and I was watching the rpm, then I saw it drop by itself and I gave it gas before it could die and there was no shaking or any sign of anything it just wanted to die. Tonight I'm going for a spirited drive to see if it will fix it.
coolant temp sensor
MAF
O2
TPS
IAC - idle air control
i'm assuming your car is in decent tune and your TB is clean w/ good vacume lines.
06-26-2003, 02:46 PM
#26
Originally posted by DanNY
check the following items:
coolant temp sensor
MAF
O2
TPS
IAC - idle air control
i'm assuming your car is in decent tune and your TB is clean w/ good vacume lines.
check the following items:
coolant temp sensor
MAF
O2
TPS
IAC - idle air control
i'm assuming your car is in decent tune and your TB is clean w/ good vacume lines.
09-06-2003, 07:46 PM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 18
More evidence...
I love a great mystery, and this one has confounded me for quite some time. First of all, I think of any malfunction that is intermittent in nature to be electrical, since mechanical stuff just is what it is, not withstanding any external conditions like temperature, humidity, etc. It rarely changes, a mechanical bearing thunk is a thunk, etc. External factors are just slight modifiers, making the condition a little bit better or worse, depending on thicker or thinner oil, air, etc.
Electrical is more digital, when it's connected it works fine, when not, it does not work. My early cars were Austins/MG's, which hones one's electrical diagnostic abilities. I recall one Sprite that used to blow a fuse on a severe left turn, when an engine component shifted just enough to short out a circuit. Incredibly medievil, Lucas, Prince of Darkness, etc....real crap.
I have had this same condition for some time. Engine runs like a rocket, sweet and fast, or a POS, lumpy on one cylinder. Thunk, thunk, thunk, getting better of course with higher RPM's as the flywheel smooths things out.
Anyway, to get to the end of the story, I have had a periodically lumpy 93 GXE. I have owned this car for 10 years now and bought it new, so I know it intimately. It used to get lumpy on ocassion, and I added Techron Fuel Injector cleaner and it seemed to go away. Then it would come back, and I was convinced it was water in the fuel, or a clogged injector.
Finally it has come to stay, and now I have torn the top of the motor down at 117K miles. I could not get the injectors out of the rail, so I took them to the local shop that claimed they could. They got them out, but f/bucked up a few in the process, busting the plastic. Now I have 6 injectors, not knowing which came from where.
Before I took them out, I put in a new set of plugs. On removal of the old plugs, I noticed the first cylinder plug was black, all the others were tan/grey, OK. Hint: This cylinder is not working. I pulled the plugs a couple of weeks later and the first cylinder was perfectly clean as new, obviously it wasn't burning anything. So I tested the compression, thinking it was maybe a bad valve, but compression was comparable, probably not a valve/compression problem.
So, I have 6 injectors. Since the local shop pulled the injectors I lost track of which was #1 (drat!), but afterward I tested them all with an Ohmmeter. One injector was high resistance, different from the rest.
So, my theory is that all along I have probably had one electrically bad injector, periodically going in and out, having nothing to do with the fuel cleaner solutions I was pushing at it, just accidentally working or not.
My advice would be to check resistance on the injectors before you pull them entirely, a small labor savings only since to get to that point you have to tear the top intake stuff off anyway. Then compare that "off" injector to the rest, do some compression readings if you can, compare the spark plugs from differnt cylinders.
This mystery is solveable, we are close...Good luck!
Electrical is more digital, when it's connected it works fine, when not, it does not work. My early cars were Austins/MG's, which hones one's electrical diagnostic abilities. I recall one Sprite that used to blow a fuse on a severe left turn, when an engine component shifted just enough to short out a circuit. Incredibly medievil, Lucas, Prince of Darkness, etc....real crap.
I have had this same condition for some time. Engine runs like a rocket, sweet and fast, or a POS, lumpy on one cylinder. Thunk, thunk, thunk, getting better of course with higher RPM's as the flywheel smooths things out.
Anyway, to get to the end of the story, I have had a periodically lumpy 93 GXE. I have owned this car for 10 years now and bought it new, so I know it intimately. It used to get lumpy on ocassion, and I added Techron Fuel Injector cleaner and it seemed to go away. Then it would come back, and I was convinced it was water in the fuel, or a clogged injector.
Finally it has come to stay, and now I have torn the top of the motor down at 117K miles. I could not get the injectors out of the rail, so I took them to the local shop that claimed they could. They got them out, but f/bucked up a few in the process, busting the plastic. Now I have 6 injectors, not knowing which came from where.
Before I took them out, I put in a new set of plugs. On removal of the old plugs, I noticed the first cylinder plug was black, all the others were tan/grey, OK. Hint: This cylinder is not working. I pulled the plugs a couple of weeks later and the first cylinder was perfectly clean as new, obviously it wasn't burning anything. So I tested the compression, thinking it was maybe a bad valve, but compression was comparable, probably not a valve/compression problem.
So, I have 6 injectors. Since the local shop pulled the injectors I lost track of which was #1 (drat!), but afterward I tested them all with an Ohmmeter. One injector was high resistance, different from the rest.
So, my theory is that all along I have probably had one electrically bad injector, periodically going in and out, having nothing to do with the fuel cleaner solutions I was pushing at it, just accidentally working or not.
My advice would be to check resistance on the injectors before you pull them entirely, a small labor savings only since to get to that point you have to tear the top intake stuff off anyway. Then compare that "off" injector to the rest, do some compression readings if you can, compare the spark plugs from differnt cylinders.
This mystery is solveable, we are close...Good luck!
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