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need advice on broken bolt

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Old Jul 3, 2003 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
adroga's Avatar
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need advice on broken bolt

I'm still working on my inoperative ac system. Basically we have located a huge leak in the condenser due to corrosion. So we purchased a new condenser and in the process of pulling it out, we broke 2 bolts. These bolts are the ones located on the upper right (going to compressor) and the lower left (going to receiver/drier), ie one bolt for each connection.
Would it be wise to just drill them out and get new bolts, or would this potentially damage the airtight connections?
Once these bolts are out, everything would pop back in easily.

On a side note, I noticed that the metal hose that goes into the drier from the condenser looks like it has some black tape/adhesive of some sort but with no edges... just a smooth piece. Is this supposed to be there or was it a repair job for a previous leak?

Many thanks in advance.. you guys are the best.

Old Jul 3, 2003 | 08:48 PM
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what process did u use to find the leak? did u go to a shop or did it at home?


I have a used OEM condenser in perfect shape from a 90 maxima in my garage...although someone said they MIGHT come and buy it.
Old Jul 3, 2003 | 09:10 PM
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buy some GOOD drill bits and drill the old bolts out and remove them with an EZ out. I'd suggest against using any sort of penetrating lube on it to keep from contaminating the system. if you use anything, use the oil that goes through the cooling system with the freon.. it's better than nothing, and since it already belongs in there, you can't contaminate it any more.
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 03:53 AM
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I had the system checked out by a mechanic who works/owns a garage with a friend of mine, so I dont think he would rip me off.
The system did not hold a vaccum at all, and when he pumped some air inside, it was leaking out from underneath the front area and he said he felt/heard it from the condenser.

Im from montreal so with all the salt we drive through in the winter, cars seem to practically melt away especially when people dont do any rust proofing.

Thanks matt..
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 06:45 AM
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Buy left twist drill bits and use a reversable drill. Most drill bits twist right which has the tendancy to tighten the broken studs. Left twist bits have the tendancy to loosen then stud as you drill.

Harbor Freight has a set of 4 for under $5
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 07:49 AM
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the problem is that most of the tools from harbor freight are cheap crap. I was there last weekend actually looking for some left twist bits and didn't find any of decent quality to drill out broken bolts. regular high speed steel bits just don't cut it, but I have a few I bought from a wholesale tool place for about $1.25 each that drilled through exhaust studs like they were soft wood. took about 2 minutes to drill through a stud. niiice.
just go to an industrial tool supply and tell them what you're doing and they should have the smarts to get you the right drill bits.
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 07:37 PM
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Anyone know why it says subscribed in brakets next to the thread when i post?
Just wondering since I dont see this with other threads...
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 07:48 PM
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For a tool you will probably use for one or two jobs Harbor Freight stuff is okay. Since I have one in town it's convienent. Wish I could find a Snapon dealer though.... it's hard findind their trucks to chase them down.....
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 09:57 PM
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why would you ever want to buy snap-on? from what ive seen they charge about 10x more than buy the same part at a regular car parts store. And you can find parts with lifetime guarantees.
Old Jul 4, 2003 | 10:17 PM
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Snapon doesn't sell car parts, they sell tools. And yes they are more expensive then Harbor Freight. For main line tools, things I use all the time I spend the money on quality cause I only want to buy them ONCE. Things I might use once or twice I'll buy at Harbor Freight cause they're cheap. They may only last once or twice, but who cares, that's all I would use them for anyways.

For example.... I had to remove an axle nut from another car. I wasn't sure what size I would need except it was between 27-34mm. At Sears, the Craftsman shop wanted $18-22 per socket. OUCH. That adds up quick buying seceral sockets to get the one socket that I would use twice (off then on).

At HF I found a complete set of sockets 19mm-54mm with a one inch drive rachet, breaker bar and extension for $32. Cost about as much as two of the Craftsman sockets. So there you go.

The rest of the story there is that I needed a 19 an 21 or 22 to do the rear suspension on the Max. So I haul out this humongar set of beastly 1" sockets that I already consider have paid for them selves. BONUS.

Bottom line is buy top line tools for everyday stuff. Everything else, consider carefully.
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