tool46&2

iTrader: (3)

I finally got my Koni struts and plan on installing them real soon. I have a couple of questions. The instructions that came with the Konis are very vague and would be more helpful if they had words also instead of just pictures. I've read three different detailed write-ups on the interent about how to convert the front struts.

1. In the instructions for the rear struts it shows after you removed the old cartridge and before the new cartridge is installed to pour 50ml. of fluid (I'm assuming strut fluid) into the strut housing. Is that even necessary since the new Koni cartridge is a sealed unit with the proper fluid already in it?

Also is it necessary to change the O-ring under the gland packing on the rear struts (Since I'm assuming you don't need to have fluid in the actual strut housing)?

2. Is the white plastic "wiper disc" that slides over the strut shaft/piston supposed to be fairly loose and just sit at the top of the strut housing (Cause in my opinion it doesn't look very effective as a "wiper disc")?

3. From the instructions it looks like the more you turn the strut shaft/piston clockwise (In a tightening direction) the stiffer the strut becomes. Is that correct? Also how many different settings are possible on the struts? From what I can see it is possible to get 2 full revolutions of the strut shaft/piston for adjusting. Are you just supposed to leave the strut shaft/piston anywhere in between the 720 degrees of revolution to achieve the desired stiffness?

Also I've read on the forum that you should adjust the strut to the softest or next softest setting and then the struts can be adjusted to be more stiff over time as they wear out. Does this sound right? If not what adjustment on the strut would you recommend (I'm using Eibach springs with the struts)?

I would appreciated any help or advice people have to offer!!
Thanks!

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Yes you need to put some kind of oil in the strut tube. It's there to help disapate the heat generated by strut operation. There willbe old stinky oil in there when you dissaenble the strut. You can reuse it, or you can use a light oil like machine oil.

Koni's have infinite tuning. Unlike Tokico Illuminas and others which have several detents, the Koni's will let you turn the know to anywhere you want. Where you turn it is more a reflection of ride you want and your driving style.

burtreynolds

Although there is nothing officially stated from KONI about strut wear and adjustment, my experience with the conversion has proven that over time, like anything else, the strut will become "broken in" and adjustment will bring back the stiffness. It will not be dramatic and it will also depend on your springs, but you will eventually notice a bit of the ride stiffness dissipate over time. I paired my KONIs with Suspenion Tech. springs and my God what a world of difference. I had also run head on into a curb at 40 mph on the Tokico's I had but I never remember taking some of the bends on my street this fast.

Tim93se5sp

iTrader: (1)

1. Yes add some fluid as an oil bath around the sealed rear strut. It is probably not crucial since it is sealed, but it may dissipate some heat. I could see no reason to replace the O-ring, so I didnt.

2. After reading the vague directions and several writeups online, I could not figure out what those flimsy white things were supposed to do. The dont resemble any parts on the OEM strut, so I left them off, with no ill effects.

3. Supposedly there are 5 "settings" (each setting being a half turn). I could only turn slightly more than 2 full turns. Just be consistent, at least in axle pairs. I set all of mine to 1 full turn counter-clockwise from maximum stiffness. Ride quality is still pretty darn good in combination with my eibachs.

I dont recommend putting them on the softest setting to begin with, as they will be very soft. Notice how easily you can pull them out on this setting.


Two other things I learned from doing the job for the first time:

- Before disassembling the front strut assembly, mark the direction the upper strut mount faces. Its important to get it straight, and impossible to tell by looking at it which way it goes. The front eibachs end up a half turn different on the top than the stock springs. The rears are easier to figure out by looking, but I would mark them too.

-Make sure you reuse all the stock spacers and washers on top of the strut mount in the rear.

Good sources for info:

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/suspens...h_tokico.shtml

http://scott92282.tripod.com/scomax/koni.html

Read that first link 10 times if you havent already. That second link isnt as helpful, but gives you words to accompany the pictures Koni sends you.