need help buying a 93
need help buying a 93
i test drove this 93max and everything was sweet except the a/c wasn't that cold and i noticed a possible problem with the front suspension. i looked under the front wheel wells and theres a spring with a metal tube through it going up. at the point where it connects, there's some rubber flanges that are completely worn out and hanging off.
can anyone tell me what this is (cv joint maybe???) and how much it would be to fix?????????
thanks.
can anyone tell me what this is (cv joint maybe???) and how much it would be to fix?????????
thanks.
Sounds like you are talking about the front strut assy- the "spring with the metal tube" part anyway. Not sure where you are seeing the rubber parts being torn, so I can't speak to that. It could be that you are seeing a rubber cover or boot over the top portion of the strut- don't know of our Max's have that or not, but if so, it will be well up inside the fender. Easiest way to get an idea if the struts are bad is to push down on the car over each wheel and see if it bounces- there should not be excessive up and down motion- push down on it and let it go, it should come back up and pretty much stay there. If it bounces, it's probably bad.
As to the CV joint, it is common when the boots rip, that there will be rubber hanging down. Turn the wheel all the way to the right to see the passenger side, all the way to the left to see the driver side. (looking from the front on each side). You should see the axle easily now, and it will be obvious if the boots are ripped. Usually, the joints don't go bad unless the boot rips, which lets the grease out and the water and dirt in. That destroys the joint and causes a characteristic "clicking" noise, especially when turning. Neither one of those things is horrible to fix, but I would definitely use that info to get the price reduced. In terms of price, it sounds like you wouldn't be doing it yourself, so that automatically increases the price by quite a bit. You can get remanufactured axles (easier than replacing just the joint) for about $75 ea, and you can get standard struts for about $50-$75 per wheel. So, youn are into it for about $450 in parts if you do both axles and all the struts, plus labor.
As to the CV joint, it is common when the boots rip, that there will be rubber hanging down. Turn the wheel all the way to the right to see the passenger side, all the way to the left to see the driver side. (looking from the front on each side). You should see the axle easily now, and it will be obvious if the boots are ripped. Usually, the joints don't go bad unless the boot rips, which lets the grease out and the water and dirt in. That destroys the joint and causes a characteristic "clicking" noise, especially when turning. Neither one of those things is horrible to fix, but I would definitely use that info to get the price reduced. In terms of price, it sounds like you wouldn't be doing it yourself, so that automatically increases the price by quite a bit. You can get remanufactured axles (easier than replacing just the joint) for about $75 ea, and you can get standard struts for about $50-$75 per wheel. So, youn are into it for about $450 in parts if you do both axles and all the struts, plus labor.
thanks for the help yall. the guy wants $6k for it, so i'll offer him $4k with these problems and see what happens. i don't think i could pay over 5k for something that needs work right off the bat.
thanks for the help yall. the guy wants $6k for it, so i'll offer him $4k with these problems and see what happens. i don't think i could pay over 5k for something that needs work right off the bat.
if the miles are over 100K, I think $4k would be at the high end of what you should pay, unless the car is just about flawless. I think the blue book might say $5k for a 93 SE with 100K in excellent condition, but obviously, the car has some things that need to be addressed.
The tube and spring is the strut assembly. The rubber "flange" is the strut boot. This is a normal thing for a Maxima w/over 100k miles and original strut assemblies. You can be assured that ANY car with 100K and OE struts needs new struts. Front struts can be had for $40-80 each, rear struts $40-60. You'll also need $10-15 each for a new boot. That's what you're looking at when you say rubber flange. It'll take a full day to change them out by yourself. Figure another $150 if you pass it off for someone else to install. Once the struts are replaced you'll need to get it aligned for another $60 or so. BTW, if you are planning to instal lowering springs at any point, THIS is the time to do it.
I wouldn't offer over $3500 for a 93 SE (or most any other car for that matter) UNLESS it was REALLY special. I wouldn't even offer $3500 for a 93 with an auto tranny, more like $3K.
Other things to watch out for.....
Ticking at start up from cold that goes away after warming up some can be the VTCs. (EXPENSIVE to fix properly)
Windows that don't go up and down. Usually the regulators which cost about $60 each to purchase and install yourself.
Power steering pumps that either leak, or squeal. You can find these for about $60, but they are a semi-PITA to install.
Exhaust Manifold bolts that are prone to break. You can replace them all yourself for about $60-80, but this is not a job for someone who isn't fairly well versed in fixing cars. A shop will charge you MAJOR dollars to fix these.
Windsheild wiper drive rods and ball hinges. If you're in a location where it rains or snows alot these can wear out and your wipers won't work. Parts are about $27.
Finally, if it's an SE it probably came with the BOSE stereo system, If it's working now you're lucky, but be prepared to have a new system installed.
Also check out the "how to" articles on www.4dsc.com
I wouldn't offer over $3500 for a 93 SE (or most any other car for that matter) UNLESS it was REALLY special. I wouldn't even offer $3500 for a 93 with an auto tranny, more like $3K.
Other things to watch out for.....
Ticking at start up from cold that goes away after warming up some can be the VTCs. (EXPENSIVE to fix properly)
Windows that don't go up and down. Usually the regulators which cost about $60 each to purchase and install yourself.
Power steering pumps that either leak, or squeal. You can find these for about $60, but they are a semi-PITA to install.
Exhaust Manifold bolts that are prone to break. You can replace them all yourself for about $60-80, but this is not a job for someone who isn't fairly well versed in fixing cars. A shop will charge you MAJOR dollars to fix these.
Windsheild wiper drive rods and ball hinges. If you're in a location where it rains or snows alot these can wear out and your wipers won't work. Parts are about $27.
Finally, if it's an SE it probably came with the BOSE stereo system, If it's working now you're lucky, but be prepared to have a new system installed.
Also check out the "how to" articles on www.4dsc.com
thanks for the advice people. sounds like struts aren't a HUGE issue, but something that does need to be reflected in the price.
so you're saying, $3k should be my limit....... i don't know if that will fly with dude, but i have no problems walking.
thanks again, i'll let you guys know what car i buy.
so you're saying, $3k should be my limit....... i don't know if that will fly with dude, but i have no problems walking.
thanks again, i'll let you guys know what car i buy.
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