Brand new 93 Max SE????
09-28-2003, 06:01 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,148
Brand new 93 Max SE????
Hello again, my 93 SE with 185k on it is a new car again! I have replaced just about everything on it, all with original parts from Courtesy.
Here is the list:
rear sway bar
rear struts
all 4 rotors and calipers
front engine pipe and muffler
both control arms (both sides)
tie rods (both sides)
ball joints (both sides)
2 front struts and mounts
antenna mast
02 sensor
A/C dryer
A/C condensor
fuel pump/filter and all steel lines
6 platinum tip plugs
power steering hose
drivers side door hinges
OEM rear spoiler
and most important, ALL 12 EXHAUST STUDS!!
There is nothing else to replace in this car! No VTCs!
Anything else I forgot??
Here is the list:
rear sway bar
rear struts
all 4 rotors and calipers
front engine pipe and muffler
both control arms (both sides)
tie rods (both sides)
ball joints (both sides)
2 front struts and mounts
antenna mast
02 sensor
A/C dryer
A/C condensor
fuel pump/filter and all steel lines
6 platinum tip plugs
power steering hose
drivers side door hinges
OEM rear spoiler
and most important, ALL 12 EXHAUST STUDS!!
There is nothing else to replace in this car! No VTCs!
Anything else I forgot??
09-28-2003, 06:44 PM
#2
make sure the plugs are NGK. others may spike the ignition like bosch. i read that in another post. thats whats been happening to my car. they spike the ecu and temp kill power. now with NGK no more spiking !
09-29-2003, 02:50 PM
#7
what i mean by spike is kind of like a "short circuit" it kills power while you are driving every once in a while but when you push in the clutch the cars still on. kinda weird at first but its annoying. i found out it was the plugs.
09-29-2003, 04:32 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,148
Originally Posted by snowman2155
Looks good Jeff! I think you should slap on some cross drilled/slotted rotors.
What's the difference anyway?
09-30-2003, 03:09 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Originally Posted by JEFF93SE
Hello again, my 93 SE with 185k on it is a new car again! I have replaced just about everything on it, all with original parts from Courtesy.
Here is the list:
...
Anything else I forgot??
Here is the list:
...
Anything else I forgot??
Nonetheless, you car looks great. By the end of winter, I hope to have the SE in presentable condition. Mechanically, she is sound.
09-30-2003, 07:48 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 535
Jeff92SE, I got my cross drilled/slotted rotors from www.irotors.com They were about $200 for all 4. I believe they are actually brembo rotors too, which is even better. They also zinc plate them for free. Cross drilled/slotted rotors help stop faster because the slots and drilled holes help dissipate the heat. They will also look really good since your rims are pretty much see through. Just a thought.
09-30-2003, 10:40 AM
#12
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 243
Cross drilled rotors don't necessarily make you stop faster. Technically there is less surface area for the pads to grip. Cross drilled rotors do prevent fading by dissipating the heat faster between times of braking, not while you are braking. They will help you stop faster if you repeatedly use them, say going down a mountain or something. Maybe that's what you meant though.
Question, is the zinc plating just for looks?
Question, is the zinc plating just for looks?
10-01-2003, 01:53 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 32
Bosch Platinum are fine - NGK (No Good Kind) are fine...
Any performance increase you feel from spark plugs is in your head.
Durability is the issue..
I run Bosch just cause they are cheaper - and I can change them more often which gives me the opportunity to do a compression check and check the gaps.
With the Electronic Engine Control system working properly - and if your not burning oil - your plugs should look very nice even after 30k miles. If your fouling plugs, chances are something else is amiss and the actual brand name of the plugs will not keep it from happening.
Checking gaps is important in a high mile motor since a piece of carbon can flake off and hit your plug - or a piece of injector etc. etc.. (Yes the last time I changed my injectors, several of them had pieces of the pintle cap broken off which I'm quite sure were sucked into the engine and possibly hurled against the plugs at high speed.
I have two hi mileage maximas - and have never seen a fouled plug. I run bosch in both cause I'm cheap.
Any performance increase you feel from spark plugs is in your head.
Durability is the issue..
I run Bosch just cause they are cheaper - and I can change them more often which gives me the opportunity to do a compression check and check the gaps.
With the Electronic Engine Control system working properly - and if your not burning oil - your plugs should look very nice even after 30k miles. If your fouling plugs, chances are something else is amiss and the actual brand name of the plugs will not keep it from happening.
Checking gaps is important in a high mile motor since a piece of carbon can flake off and hit your plug - or a piece of injector etc. etc.. (Yes the last time I changed my injectors, several of them had pieces of the pintle cap broken off which I'm quite sure were sucked into the engine and possibly hurled against the plugs at high speed.
I have two hi mileage maximas - and have never seen a fouled plug. I run bosch in both cause I'm cheap.
10-01-2003, 06:35 PM
#17
Originally Posted by rexwl
Bosch Platinum are fine - NGK (No Good Kind) are fine...
Any performance increase you feel from spark plugs is in your head.
I have two hi mileage maximas - and have never seen a fouled plug. I run bosch in both cause I'm cheap.
Any performance increase you feel from spark plugs is in your head.
I have two hi mileage maximas - and have never seen a fouled plug. I run bosch in both cause I'm cheap.
besides do you really think that ANY car company in their right mind would spend 4x as much on plugs if they were "all just as good" .
They are in the business to make money. and if they could have saved $20 a car by using a cheaper plug they dam well would have.
Use the NGK they are O.E. for a reason.
10-01-2003, 06:42 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 32
Originally Posted by internetautomar
on some cars emissions also pose a problem.
besides do you really think that ANY car company in their right mind would spend 4x as much on plugs if they were "all just as good" .
They are in the business to make money. and if they could have saved $20 a car by using a cheaper plug they dam well would have.
Use the NGK they are O.E. for a reason.
besides do you really think that ANY car company in their right mind would spend 4x as much on plugs if they were "all just as good" .
They are in the business to make money. and if they could have saved $20 a car by using a cheaper plug they dam well would have.
Use the NGK they are O.E. for a reason.
If you think the Japanese would put Bosch Plugs in their cars - you don't know anything about the way Japanese do business. Although I believe OEM injectors are Bosch.
I can assure you the cost on both NGK and Bosch - Regular old platinmum plugs are both about 2-3 bucks --(I'm not talking about the Bosch +4 -- or Bosch +2 - or the fancy NGK iridium).
So - Like I said there will be no appreciable difference. (And if you really want to get p/o'd - I'd bet you motorcraft makes a platinum plug that would be just as good.) I've got a F-150 with 95000 miles and I'm not suppose to change them until 100K. Spark Plugs are not Rocket Science.
10-02-2003, 06:49 AM
#21
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Not on the VE they weren't.
They are Iridiums according to NGK
and yes the injectors are bosch so there goes the bosch plug theory
They are Iridiums according to NGK
and yes the injectors are bosch so there goes the bosch plug theory
10-02-2003, 07:21 AM
#22
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 32
Yes - that's correct
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Let me correct myself. They are NGK Laser Platinums not Iridiums
Read up on it at www.ngk.com.
Regular old NGK Platinums at O'Reilly's auto parts are 3 bucks a piece as are the standard Bosch Platinum's.
Then there are 4 levels above those - with fancy names. Basically more precious metal - exotic center electrodes etc..
If you have a stock motor - these are an overkill. If you like to change your plugs a lot (every 10K / 20K) they are an overkill.
But by all means if you want to put a 12 dollar plug into your car, and it makes you think it runs better. That's why they have 12 dollar plugs.
I understand that there are even more expensive plugs available from Denso - and other boutique Sparkplug manufacturer's that run upwards of 100 bucks a piece.
For an extra $2000.00 (+expenses) you can get a technician from Japan to fly over and hand torque them within .0000001 inch pound of OEM spec - which I'm sure will greatly enhance Horsepower and Reliability. <grin>
10-02-2003, 07:44 AM
#23
Originally Posted by rexwl
Whatever... Your paying for the platinum or iridium content of the plug which will basically - the more precious metal - the longer it will last.
Read up on it at www.ngk.com.
Regular old NGK Platinums at O'Reilly's auto parts are 3 bucks a piece as are the standard Bosch Platinum's.
Read up on it at www.ngk.com.
Regular old NGK Platinums at O'Reilly's auto parts are 3 bucks a piece as are the standard Bosch Platinum's.
As I said before NO OEM will spend anymore than they have too on any part on any car. So there is a reason for the different plugs.
BTW I'll bet you'd put the same $3 plugs in a 99 camry wouldn't you.
Good way to lose mileage, fail emissions, run like crap.
This is all said from more than 500 cars worth of experience
10-02-2003, 08:13 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 486
Originally Posted by JEFF93SE
Hello again, my 93 SE with 185k on it is a new car again! I have replaced just about everything on it, all with original parts from Courtesy.
Here is the list:
There is nothing else to replace in this car! No VTCs!
Anything else I forgot??
Here is the list:
There is nothing else to replace in this car! No VTCs!
Anything else I forgot??
what do you mean by no VTC's??? your car would not run without the vtc's in there. You could ground them if they are ticking but not remove them
well that is unless it is not an SE
10-02-2003, 08:21 AM
#25
Originally Posted by internetautomar
That may be true for regular old platinums but as I said before these are LASER PLATINUMS a different animal so they are more money.
As I said before NO OEM will spend anymore than they have too on any part on any car. So there is a reason for the different plugs.
BTW I'll bet you'd put the same $3 plugs in a 99 camry wouldn't you.
Good way to lose mileage, fail emissions, run like crap.
This is all said from more than 500 cars worth of experience
As I said before NO OEM will spend anymore than they have too on any part on any car. So there is a reason for the different plugs.
BTW I'll bet you'd put the same $3 plugs in a 99 camry wouldn't you.
Good way to lose mileage, fail emissions, run like crap.
This is all said from more than 500 cars worth of experience
Really?
I'm running NGK V-Power plugs in my VE with advanced timing and several other engine mods.. still run 14.9s even with crappy plugs.
The biggest difference in them is longevity. if you don't mind replacing plugs every 10k miles, then buy the $1.50 NGK cheapos. If you want to run 60k between changes, spend $12 each on the platinums. Bah.
10-03-2003, 01:17 PM
#26
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 13
interesting, please respond if you can
Hi all:
I just posted asking for a mass air flow sensor for a problem I've been having but one of you raised an interesting opinion on the bosch platinum +4 plugs.
I've been experiencing sudden losses of power (like the engine is simply shutting off) like a "short circuit" for the past 4 months or so. I replaced NGK plugs with Bosch platinum +4 plugs last fall and have put around 7k on the car since then.
Would the Bosch's be causing this sudden on-off type issue? And the worst part is that the diagnostic is showing NOTHING. Also the car is fine in idle and revs fine. The problem is extremely intermittent (like once every hour and a half or so) and only happens when the wheels are put to the road. WHen it does happen it is dangerous, for instance if you're turning at an intersection and you just lose it, then it hurks and jerks about until you lay off for several seconds then you're back to normal.
BTW, I was suspecting this to be an electrical issue cuz my alternator fried recently and had to be replaced and I was wondering if it was fried due to this on-off issue (like it got spiked with juice). Of course replacing the alternator didn't help the problem. It got a bit better (less frequent) but now it's back to on-offing on me every other hour.
I was hoping not to have to change the Bosch's 'til next year or later cuz they were kinda expensive but if that is the problem and not the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor then I'll have to change them back to the NGK's.
Thanks all for your input, I really appreciate it. This problem has been DRIVING ME INSANE all summer long!
Take care and drive safely,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5 spd with some good stuff
I just posted asking for a mass air flow sensor for a problem I've been having but one of you raised an interesting opinion on the bosch platinum +4 plugs.
I've been experiencing sudden losses of power (like the engine is simply shutting off) like a "short circuit" for the past 4 months or so. I replaced NGK plugs with Bosch platinum +4 plugs last fall and have put around 7k on the car since then.
Would the Bosch's be causing this sudden on-off type issue? And the worst part is that the diagnostic is showing NOTHING. Also the car is fine in idle and revs fine. The problem is extremely intermittent (like once every hour and a half or so) and only happens when the wheels are put to the road. WHen it does happen it is dangerous, for instance if you're turning at an intersection and you just lose it, then it hurks and jerks about until you lay off for several seconds then you're back to normal.
BTW, I was suspecting this to be an electrical issue cuz my alternator fried recently and had to be replaced and I was wondering if it was fried due to this on-off issue (like it got spiked with juice). Of course replacing the alternator didn't help the problem. It got a bit better (less frequent) but now it's back to on-offing on me every other hour.
I was hoping not to have to change the Bosch's 'til next year or later cuz they were kinda expensive but if that is the problem and not the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor then I'll have to change them back to the NGK's.
Thanks all for your input, I really appreciate it. This problem has been DRIVING ME INSANE all summer long!
Take care and drive safely,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5 spd with some good stuff
10-03-2003, 01:45 PM
#27
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 32
Originally Posted by darkhorse
Hi all:
I just posted asking for a mass air flow sensor for a problem I've been having but one of you raised an interesting opinion on the bosch platinum +4 plugs.
I've been experiencing sudden losses of power (like the engine is simply shutting off) like a "short circuit" for the past 4 months or so. I replaced NGK plugs with Bosch platinum +4 plugs last fall and have put around 7k on the car since then.
Would the Bosch's be causing this sudden on-off type issue? And the worst part is that the diagnostic is showing NOTHING. Also the car is fine in idle and revs fine. The problem is extremely intermittent (like once every hour and a half or so) and only happens when the wheels are put to the road. WHen it does happen it is dangerous, for instance if you're turning at an intersection and you just lose it, then it hurks and jerks about until you lay off for several seconds then you're back to normal.
BTW, I was suspecting this to be an electrical issue cuz my alternator fried recently and had to be replaced and I was wondering if it was fried due to this on-off issue (like it got spiked with juice). Of course replacing the alternator didn't help the problem. It got a bit better (less frequent) but now it's back to on-offing on me every other hour.
I was hoping not to have to change the Bosch's 'til next year or later cuz they were kinda expensive but if that is the problem and not the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor then I'll have to change them back to the NGK's.
Thanks all for your input, I really appreciate it. This problem has been DRIVING ME INSANE all summer long!
Take care and drive safely,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5 spd with some good stuff
I just posted asking for a mass air flow sensor for a problem I've been having but one of you raised an interesting opinion on the bosch platinum +4 plugs.
I've been experiencing sudden losses of power (like the engine is simply shutting off) like a "short circuit" for the past 4 months or so. I replaced NGK plugs with Bosch platinum +4 plugs last fall and have put around 7k on the car since then.
Would the Bosch's be causing this sudden on-off type issue? And the worst part is that the diagnostic is showing NOTHING. Also the car is fine in idle and revs fine. The problem is extremely intermittent (like once every hour and a half or so) and only happens when the wheels are put to the road. WHen it does happen it is dangerous, for instance if you're turning at an intersection and you just lose it, then it hurks and jerks about until you lay off for several seconds then you're back to normal.
BTW, I was suspecting this to be an electrical issue cuz my alternator fried recently and had to be replaced and I was wondering if it was fried due to this on-off issue (like it got spiked with juice). Of course replacing the alternator didn't help the problem. It got a bit better (less frequent) but now it's back to on-offing on me every other hour.
I was hoping not to have to change the Bosch's 'til next year or later cuz they were kinda expensive but if that is the problem and not the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor then I'll have to change them back to the NGK's.
Thanks all for your input, I really appreciate it. This problem has been DRIVING ME INSANE all summer long!
Take care and drive safely,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5 spd with some good stuff
-----------------
Chances are if you think it's shorting out - it prolly is.. Look at the coil, distributor cap and coil wire..
Just another question - does your radio/lights etc go off when this all happens ??
Are all of your battery terminals / ground wires etc.. on tight and clean?
Get out the Ohm meter and get after it!!
10-03-2003, 01:47 PM
#28
Yup I'd replace the dist cap and plug wires first.
Originally Posted by rexwl
-----------------
Chances are if you think it's shorting out - it prolly is.. Look at the coil, distributor cap and coil wire..
!!
Chances are if you think it's shorting out - it prolly is.. Look at the coil, distributor cap and coil wire..
!!
10-03-2003, 02:32 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Yup I'd replace the dist cap and plug wires first.
As for the spark plug thing, who cares, blow the extra money if you want to and have a false feeling of having superior plugs in your car. Just run basic NGK platinums, and check them when your supposed to and you wont have a problem.
Hell I'm using NGK V-Power Coppers because I decided I'd rather save money on the spark plugs because they are consumables. Their good plugs, engines running fine, everythings good. Honestly just run the cheaper spark plugs and save your money for a Cone filter or something where you will have atleast a slight difference.
10-03-2003, 02:44 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Yup I'd replace the dist cap and plug wires first.
I'll tell you this though. I finally fixed my jerking and hesitation on my 94 SE, I would pull your ignition coils and inspect them. I had to replace 2 of my front 3 coils because they had cracks running up and down both sides. Hasn't stall or jerked since. Give it a shot
10-04-2003, 12:41 PM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 13
thanks again!
Hey all:
I replied to my other thread about the MAF and thanked all you guys. I basically asked the next question:
If I replace the coils do I need to replace the bosch's with ngk's due to this bosch spiking issue? The last thing I wanna do is have this thing repeat itself.
Anywho, thanks again and I look forward to your responses.
Also, I may be a bit slow in getting the coils but I promise to close the loop and tell you guys when and how this problem got fixed (if it ever does). I appreciate your giving me your intel and obviously it's my rock and roll dooty to feedback to you. And I will!
:-)
Take care,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5spd with some good stuff
I replied to my other thread about the MAF and thanked all you guys. I basically asked the next question:
If I replace the coils do I need to replace the bosch's with ngk's due to this bosch spiking issue? The last thing I wanna do is have this thing repeat itself.
Anywho, thanks again and I look forward to your responses.
Also, I may be a bit slow in getting the coils but I promise to close the loop and tell you guys when and how this problem got fixed (if it ever does). I appreciate your giving me your intel and obviously it's my rock and roll dooty to feedback to you. And I will!
:-)
Take care,
Paul
92 Maxima SE 5spd with some good stuff
10-13-2003, 08:09 AM
#32
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5
My car is doing the exact same thing and it is killing me!
Would it help to somehow install a 'run' light to the ECU, so I can tell if it shorts out or not?
My car is doing this so much now, that it is undriveable. I am prepared to sell it, if I cannot fix the thing!
-Vic
Would it help to somehow install a 'run' light to the ECU, so I can tell if it shorts out or not?
My car is doing this so much now, that it is undriveable. I am prepared to sell it, if I cannot fix the thing!
-Vic
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