New max, new problem :-(
09-30-2003, 11:49 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
New max, new problem :-(
Car starts, idles fine. Once you try to hit the gas it will act normal for a while (20-40seconds or so) then it starts running extremely rough often to the point of cutting out. If you let off the gas it will go back to normal at idle speed. Started doing this a couple weeks ago, ran fine for the previous 2 months that i've had it. So far I have checked plugs, wires, distributor, fuel pressure, fuel filter, air filter and vac lines. So now im wondering if this is a faulty sensor. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks again for all the help, you guys are awesome!
09-30-2003, 01:49 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 380
Originally Posted by csid
Car starts, idles fine. Once you try to hit the gas it will act normal for a while (20-40seconds or so) then it starts running extremely rough often to the point of cutting out. If you let off the gas it will go back to normal at idle speed. Started doing this a couple weeks ago, ran fine for the previous 2 months that i've had it. So far I have checked plugs, wires, distributor, fuel pressure, fuel filter, air filter and vac lines. So now im wondering if this is a faulty sensor. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks again for all the help, you guys are awesome!
09-30-2003, 02:13 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,764
i hate problems.. they suck $ from ur pocket
Originally Posted by csid
Car starts, idles fine. Once you try to hit the gas it will act normal for a while (20-40seconds or so) then it starts running extremely rough often to the point of cutting out. If you let off the gas it will go back to normal at idle speed. Started doing this a couple weeks ago, ran fine for the previous 2 months that i've had it. So far I have checked plugs, wires, distributor, fuel pressure, fuel filter, air filter and vac lines. So now im wondering if this is a faulty sensor. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks again for all the help, you guys are awesome!
09-30-2003, 03:17 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by ChrisCheezer
any smells of a rich fuel mix or any kind of smoke comming from the exaust?
10-02-2003, 01:24 AM
#6
Diagnostics! Diagnostics! Diagnostics! Cars have gotten too sophisticated and parts & labor too expensive to solve problems easily by 'pot shooting' with blind parts substitution all the time. It might be worth your while to find out if your ECU is throwing a error code - Lots of sensor malfunctions do, and that often pinpoints the problem. I've heard Pep Boys and some other parts/service chains can do this cheap - call around. And of course your local friendly Robber Baron Nisson Dealer can too. If your ECU is showing an error code, that could tell you exactly what to fix at one whack.
10-02-2003, 02:50 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 380
Originally Posted by RMAX54
Diagnostics! Diagnostics! Diagnostics! Cars have gotten too sophisticated and parts & labor too expensive to solve problems easily by 'pot shooting' with blind parts substitution all the time. It might be worth your while to find out if your ECU is throwing a error code - Lots of sensor malfunctions do, and that often pinpoints the problem. I've heard Pep Boys and some other parts/service chains can do this cheap - call around. And of course your local friendly Robber Baron Nisson Dealer can too. If your ECU is showing an error code, that could tell you exactly what to fix at one whack.
every parts place I've gone to either charged to check for codes, or only did domestics. and even then they only check it if your check engine light is on.
10-05-2003, 12:15 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 216
Maxi-freak is right. Run a code check before you do anything. It may save you lots of money and stress.
One thing you might want to look to buy is a factory manual. Check ebay, sometimes you can find one. If not factory, Haynes or Alldata are good.
One thing you might want to look to buy is a factory manual. Check ebay, sometimes you can find one. If not factory, Haynes or Alldata are good.
10-05-2003, 12:32 PM
#14
yeah.. smart idea.. yank out a $700 MAF that may or may not be bad, and hope it fixes the problem.
either take it to a shop and have them plug it into a computer, or buy a service manual and start diagnosing. there are a TON of helpful diagnostic procedures out there. this is exactly what they're meant for.
either take it to a shop and have them plug it into a computer, or buy a service manual and start diagnosing. there are a TON of helpful diagnostic procedures out there. this is exactly what they're meant for.
10-05-2003, 07:16 PM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
yeah.. smart idea.. yank out a $700 MAF that may or may not be bad, and hope it fixes the problem.
either take it to a shop and have them plug it into a computer, or buy a service manual and start diagnosing. there are a TON of helpful diagnostic procedures out there. this is exactly what they're meant for.
either take it to a shop and have them plug it into a computer, or buy a service manual and start diagnosing. there are a TON of helpful diagnostic procedures out there. this is exactly what they're meant for.
Thanks for all your suggestions guys. I'm really starting to lean towards the MAF sensor, but want to make sure before I shell out some dough.
10-06-2003, 01:13 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 216
If you can find a factory service manual, it has a test for the MAF. Some aftermarket books have the same info. Try going to the library or an automotive school. Community collage that has a automotive program would be the best. You might try a dealer, but most of them will not help you. You might also try a search on Google to see what comes up.
10-06-2003, 01:19 PM
#17
check thge wiring on your maf, when i painted the engine compartment i forgot to plug it back in. it started up ok, but if u opened the throttle it ran like crap. pluged it in and it was all good. my other car had a similar problem and it was a bad wire. spliced up a new one and good to go. you would need a FSM to know what wire does what though
10-06-2003, 01:30 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
yeah.. smart idea.. yank out a $700 MAF that may or may not be bad, and hope it fixes the problem.
Do you guys realize that this is an expensive part, and that it is not always the problem. I mean really people get a clue. These cars are at least 9 years old, other things can go wrong and cause these problems other than the MAF.
This might be the problem, but it might not. Like said before, diagonostic procedures at out there for a reason.
10-06-2003, 03:20 PM
#19
b4 the thread gets shut down, one person said to replace it and another agreed and said it happened twice to him, every one else, including myseld is saying to diagnose the problem as it is more than likely MAF related.
obviously if it idles then it has to do with either air comming into the engine or the throttle position. a bad injector would make the car idle like crap.ditto on the plugs/wires etc. maybee it has to do with fuel, but if he already checked that then it is all good. get off the soap box that is
obviously if it idles then it has to do with either air comming into the engine or the throttle position. a bad injector would make the car idle like crap.ditto on the plugs/wires etc. maybee it has to do with fuel, but if he already checked that then it is all good. get off the soap box that is
10-06-2003, 03:30 PM
#20
Understandable, if it is indeed the MAF by all means replace it. But what I'm referring to is the person saying "dont listen to these guys just get a new maf sensor that happened to both of my maximas". I know that MAF's can go bad and have, but this is the third thread I've seen today with someone telling someone else not to diagnose the problem, just to replace the MAF. That I don't agree with. Yes, if he has switched MAF's with a friend and know's that his is faulty, then why wouldn't he replace it. I'm just encouraging people to test before buying.
Juan you told him to check the wiring to his MAF (a very good idea) so why are you getting all defensive?
Juan you told him to check the wiring to his MAF (a very good idea) so why are you getting all defensive?
10-06-2003, 03:59 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Understandable, if it is indeed the MAF by all means replace it. But what I'm referring to is the person saying "dont listen to these guys just get a new maf sensor that happened to both of my maximas". I know that MAF's can go bad and have, but this is the third thread I've seen today with someone telling someone else not to diagnose the problem, just to replace the MAF. That I don't agree with. Yes, if he has switched MAF's with a friend and know's that his is faulty, then why wouldn't he replace it. I'm just encouraging people to test before buying.
Juan you told him to check the wiring to his MAF (a very good idea) so why are you getting all defensive?
Juan you told him to check the wiring to his MAF (a very good idea) so why are you getting all defensive?
btw i am sure you can get a refurbed maf from any autoparts store. when i had tried everything on my century(the one with the bad wire) i went to autozone and bought one for like 100 bucks(excluding core). i went outside, plugged it in, saw that it didnt change a thing and took it back in and said, oops, the wire was unplugged, can you give me my money back. then i went to the shop where i had worked and got a obd scanner on it. saw there were no readings comming out, bam! problem solved. which goes to show you that it may not have a code, and be malfunctioning, but you need to know how to read the readings
10-06-2003, 04:14 PM
#22
Originally Posted by shavedmax
because there were plenty of people who told him to diagnose the problem before replacing the MAF, like you and i did. i know that the stupidity of just changing parts ****es you off as much as it ****es me off, but if he is dumb enough to say F'it and change it without dooing some diagnising first, then shame on him for listening to a parts changer.
10-06-2003, 06:57 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Ok, what's the deal with everyone yelling change out the MAF everytime someones car has a problem. My tires low... oh, change out your MAF, that has to be the problem. My car pulls to the right.......do you think its my MAF??? My car won't start.... get a new MAF!!! Fixes everything.
Do you guys realize that this is an expensive part, and that it is not always the problem. I mean really people get a clue. These cars are at least 9 years old, other things can go wrong and cause these problems other than the MAF.
This might be the problem, but it might not. Like said before, diagonostic procedures at out there for a reason.
Do you guys realize that this is an expensive part, and that it is not always the problem. I mean really people get a clue. These cars are at least 9 years old, other things can go wrong and cause these problems other than the MAF.
This might be the problem, but it might not. Like said before, diagonostic procedures at out there for a reason.
10-06-2003, 08:37 PM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 14
Sounds like you have a VG engine. I would check your ignition coil. Sounds like the secondary is breaking down. Use a DVOM to check the resistances. Unfortunately, I don't have the specs, but I would check this first. 
10-07-2003, 10:50 AM
#25
Originally Posted by valky
Sounds like you have a VG engine. I would check your ignition coil. Sounds like the secondary is breaking down. Use a DVOM to check the resistances. Unfortunately, I don't have the specs, but I would check this first.
10-07-2003, 12:07 PM
#26
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 541
The point about parts swapping is well taken, and I hope that people know the difference when someone says "check" or "replace". Unfortunately, we can't always save people from themselves, so what they do with the information provided is not really within our control.
Car repair, by nature, is a logical process of diagnostics and elimination of variables until the problem is solved. And, there is not always only one cause for every effect. If you don't believe that, look at the FSM and see how many things there are to check for a "rough idle" for example. If you can't think logically through a problem, then you probably shouldn't be trying to fix your own car. Doesn't mean you're stupid, just means you're not suited for car repair....IMO, of course.
Car repair, by nature, is a logical process of diagnostics and elimination of variables until the problem is solved. And, there is not always only one cause for every effect. If you don't believe that, look at the FSM and see how many things there are to check for a "rough idle" for example. If you can't think logically through a problem, then you probably shouldn't be trying to fix your own car. Doesn't mean you're stupid, just means you're not suited for car repair....IMO, of course.
yes it does.
10-08-2003, 11:04 AM
#31
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
Finally bought the FSM last night and did the MAF testing. Harness voltages, resistance check good. ignition key on voltage of pin b was under .30 volts. Idle voltage at pin B was under 1.30 volts. Idling up increased voltage as its supposed to. Looks like the MAF is in good shape. It's just really blowin me away that the problem is sperattic, really sounds like something electrical/sensor related. Owell onto more testing!
10-08-2003, 12:52 PM
#32
Originally Posted by csid
Finally bought the FSM last night and did the MAF testing. Harness voltages, resistance check good. ignition key on voltage of pin b was under .30 volts. Idle voltage at pin B was under 1.30 volts. Idling up increased voltage as its supposed to. Looks like the MAF is in good shape. It's just really blowin me away that the problem is sperattic, really sounds like something electrical/sensor related. Owell onto more testing!
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