Brake fluids for 3rd gen ?
Over priced and pointless for 95% of the drivers out there.
As danny said "so when are you hitting the SCCA circuit?"
dot5 also is incompatible with dot 3/4
did you buy dot 5.1?
As danny said "so when are you hitting the SCCA circuit?"
dot5 also is incompatible with dot 3/4
did you buy dot 5.1?
Quick followup to my earlier reply:
"What is the difference between DOT3, DOT4, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids?
DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are glycol based compounds that are compatible with one another. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and should never be mixed with DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT5.1. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids may damage painted surfaces and DOT 3 and DOT 4 have lower boiling temperatures than DOT 5 (DOT 5.1 has the same boiling point as DOT 5). Furthermore, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids are "hygroscopic", which means they absorb moisture from the air. This causes the fluid to turn dark, indicating that it is time for the brake fluid to be replaced. DOT 5 fluid will not damage paint, has a boiling temperature in excess of 500ƒ F, and is not hygroscopic."
Courtesy of russell performance
"What is the difference between DOT3, DOT4, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids?
DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are glycol based compounds that are compatible with one another. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and should never be mixed with DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT5.1. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids may damage painted surfaces and DOT 3 and DOT 4 have lower boiling temperatures than DOT 5 (DOT 5.1 has the same boiling point as DOT 5). Furthermore, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids are "hygroscopic", which means they absorb moisture from the air. This causes the fluid to turn dark, indicating that it is time for the brake fluid to be replaced. DOT 5 fluid will not damage paint, has a boiling temperature in excess of 500ƒ F, and is not hygroscopic."
Courtesy of russell performance
DOT 2 DOT 3 DOT 4 DOT 5
Dry Boiling point 374 401 446 500
Wet boiling point 284 311 356
The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away! DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY!
Dry Boiling point 374 401 446 500
Wet boiling point 284 311 356
The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away! DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY!
good DOT 3 fluid is still more than you'll ever need.
I run ATE blue (about $10/quart at most race shops), which is a DOT 3 fluid... I ran a road course over the summer when it was 110 degrees outside. I heard reports from some people that they could see my rotors glowing on some corners, and the ATE held up great.
I run ATE blue (about $10/quart at most race shops), which is a DOT 3 fluid... I ran a road course over the summer when it was 110 degrees outside. I heard reports from some people that they could see my rotors glowing on some corners, and the ATE held up great.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
good DOT 3 fluid is still more than you'll ever need.
I run ATE blue (about $10/quart at most race shops), which is a DOT 3 fluid... I ran a road course over the summer when it was 110 degrees outside. I heard reports from some people that they could see my rotors glowing on some corners, and the ATE held up great.
I run ATE blue (about $10/quart at most race shops), which is a DOT 3 fluid... I ran a road course over the summer when it was 110 degrees outside. I heard reports from some people that they could see my rotors glowing on some corners, and the ATE held up great.
i also agree...ATE Blue or ATE gold...(depending on what u have now) is a excellent DOT3+ fluid.
If i can't find any ATE i use Castrol LMA.
to add to the DOT5 silicone...it doesn't mix with water. so within the line you'll get sections of water and it usually settles in the calipers hence rusting them inside out.
unless you're doing some massiving racing and got some massive hp under the hood DOT4 is the highest you'll ever need.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Try my panic drive when I'm running late on a friday afternoon. 0-60-0-60-0-60-0 repeat every mile
My brakes really don't like that.
My brakes really don't like that.
16 miles...takes me an hr and 40 min.
at least u get to 60.
Originally Posted by DanNY
16 miles...takes me an hr and 40 min.
at least u get to 60.
at least u get to 60.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
if you've got ABS, you'll need at least a full quart. I'd have two on hand, just to make sure.
if you don't have abs, it usally takes just under a pint. I'd have a full quart available.
if you don't have abs, it usally takes just under a pint. I'd have a full quart available.
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homewrecker
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Aug 24, 2015 08:56 PM




