sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

After wasting time trying to fix my Bose amps (replaced all CAPs on two diff. amps without luck) I decided to get rid of the Bose sys. and repalaced it with a JVC KD-SX990 and 6.5" Infinity Kappa speakers in the front. The difference in sound is incredible, clear,detailed and with tight bass. I'm hearing stuff I never heard with the Bose. The HU and speakers only cost $225.00 from Ebay. I got some 6x9 Infinity reference series coming for the back to complete the sound.

I'm kicking myself for having wasted so much time with the Bose. Installation and wiring was all straight forward, I used all original wiring. This MP3 HU is awesome and better than a CD changer.

just thought I'd share the excitement.

94M@X

Congrats, Did you go with the components or coax? I did the same thing with the speakers (refrence in back) only I went with an Alpine HU. The Bose really wasnt cutting it.

sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

I put in INFINITY KAPPA 62.5i. These are 3 ways with a piviting tweeter so you can dial in the imaging. Much simpler to install vs. components, but they do come with an outboard crossover that tucks away neatly inside the door.

For the HU, I though about Alpine , but couldn't justify double the price. Also Alpine looked too bright at night and I heard it doesn't have a dimmer hook-up. I'm happy with this JVC, this thing even has a front Aux. input. For $120, its hard to beat.

subs1000w

bose is crap

enjoy your new system

Bill Brasky

iTrader: (2)

question: why'd you use 18-22 gauge wire for speaker wire? it'll sound MUCH better when you totally replace all stock wiring with 14 gauge speaker wire. much more hassle, much better sound. it took me about... a weekend to totally do it alone.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

Good call on ditching the bose. I did the same thing. Bose sucks. I have Diamond Audio coaxials in the front and some Infinity reference 6x9s (I need to mount them still in the back). Did you buy pods from James92SE? Mine worked perfectly.

You should eventually get a good amp. Those speakers will sound much better with more power.

Also, I have an Alpine 9807 and it has a blackout feature if the lights start getting to you. Just hold down a button and it blacks out. Hold it down again to turn the lights back on.

sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

I used to think the same way. Now I think 'High Quality' wire is over rated. I looked at the wire Infinity uses from the crossover to the speaker, its probably around an 18 guage. So even if I use 14 guage from the dash to the cross-over, isn't the weakest link still the 18 guage going from x-over to the speakers? If the whole circuit was made from 14 guage, then I'd agree with you.


Even in the case of standard speakers with a single pair of - and + terminals. I think its important to find the weakest link in your system. If you take a look inside the car CD players, the speaker connections originate from a thin trace on a printed circuit board (PCB).

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

The true question is not the gauge of the wire but the quality of the copper used and the number of strands.
Remember electricity travels around the outside of the strand not through it (IIRC)

harrymay

yeah i agree, the bose was sh$te, i have a full pioneer system in there now wtih pioneer 6x9's in the back and 4x6's up front. i used the stock wiring with some modding, but i know the sound is better than bose but still not as good as it sould be. pretty soon ill be tearing out all the wires and replacing them with a better type, probably monster.

acidspit86

did you use a seperate amp for the speakers or are they plugged strait into the deck?

Grisadiche

i agree, the bose is crap, i also replaced it with an aiwa mp3 hu, and jensen 6.5's (made my own pods).......getting infinity 6x9's when i get the money, probably after christmas. its a shame my fuel pump died and i can't enjoy it yet.

sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

I have them hooked up directly to the reciever. Its amazing how good they sound, the bass is incredibly tight. I used 1/2" MDF to make the speaker mounts and used 4 heavy sheetmetal screws to mount to the door. Then I sealed the MDF against the door sheetmetal with some pro-grade caulking. I think that might be helping the sound a bit as the caulking acts as a dampener for the vibrations.

Just a theory, but I'm totally happy with the sound. I have no plans to add an amp.

I got the 6x9 infinity reference speakers arriving today, which I also intend to hookup directly. I'll let you guys know how it all sounds.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

:
Me likes pics

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

speaking of speakers ... is infinity better than blaupunkt? wanna make up my mind about one of em.

EriCCirE

blaupunkt = Horse ****
Stay with real brands when it comes to amps/speakers/ or a HU

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

infinity is probably the best car audio you can get if you're looking for sound quality. at least that's what one of my friends was told by a guy who does a lot of factory audio setups in gm vehicles. i believe him too.

Some of the alpine head units are way too bright. I have a 7875 with the blue lights and its incredibly bright at night. The only thing that dims is the face. I should have gotten a Pioneer because I could have gotten the EL Organic display, mp3, and all of the other cool stuff for much cheaper. The one thing I do like about the Alpine is the 60 watts to each speaker. Totally eliminated any need for an amp (for me at least). Also, the sound quality is superb.

I'm using all of the stock wire and have no complaints. In my old SUV I ran all new wires throughout the thing and didn't really notice any difference (the wires were much bigger and better than the stock crap).

sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

internetautomar,

I know I should've taken pictures, sorry but my camera was on loan at the time. In concept it is so simple. Its basically a flat piece of MDF with a round hole cutout to mount the Infinitys. I actually cut my first round hole too high, basically the 6.5s mount very close to the bottom edge of the door or they interfere with the door panal. I used some round spacers (basically giant washers) that came with the speakers to position the speakers forward so as not to interfere with the window glass.

I maybe taking the panels off again to replace some of the window seals, I'll take some pics. then.

In terms of quality, I agree, Infinity is definitely better than Blaupunkt. Infinity's core competence is speakers and Blaupunkt's known for making high quality car tuners and decks.

mtcookson, keep in mind that the 60 watts you're talking about is peak. Its better to look at the more practical RMS rating which is around 23 w for the Alpine and 20 w for my JVC. The JVC is rated at 50w X4 for peak rating.

drakken789

I have a question, when I buy a new cd player do i need the bose adapter for the bose system or would it be better to just rewire and use all new components and things?

jaguax

iTrader: (1)

I'm going for Focal 6.5" components in the front. I've heard so many fantastic reviews about them, and how they are "the rolls royce" of speakers.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

rewire that way you aren't deamping (?) and reamping the signal.
I haven't gotten to the rewire part yet I just am still using the original wires but bypassing the amps.

subs1000w

definitly bypass the bose amps

speaking of infinity i work at circuit city and 75% of the speakers i install are infinity then 20% polk and then all the others like alpine and kenwood.

although i dont have any first hand expience with focal i have heard they are one of the highest quality speakers you can buy but also very expensive and remember you need an amplifier of = quility to power them to there true potential $$$$$$$$$$$$, hooking them up to your radios onboard puny amp would be very stupid

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

oh i know. i bet its not even hitting rms wattage. wattage is so overrated on amps and such.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

Chris, which model of Diamond Audio coaxials you have? My friend is trying to convince me to get a set of M541 comps from her, and they just didn't seem to hold much power according to the specs. I'm sure not nearly as much as my Boston ProSeries does. But I'm gonna use them to replace my Rockford comp set in the rear anyway.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

People also remember all Watts are not created equal.
Check out magnet sizes to find the true capability of a speaker

sgoyal

iTrader: (1)

drakken789, in my opinion, definitely no need to re-wire. The wiring harness and the antena adapter I bought at Fry's work great. (The JVC even Dims when I turn on my headlights)

I'm assuming when someone is talking about replacing the Bose w/aftermarket, you want to get rid of the HU+Bose speakers including the PODs. Thats the cleanest route that allows largest speakers in the front. So after you take out the speaker PODs, you're left with a connector at each corner that has 4 wires. Two of those are heavy guage for powering the Bose amps and the other two are the ones you connect to your aftermarket speakers. If you're comfortable with soldering, just cut the two thin wires about 3 inches away from the connector, solder on the new wires with female spade conn. for the speakers and you're in business. Just leave the heavy wires alone. Its sooo easy, just watch the polarity of the thin wires, there is always a black wire among the two, thats your speaker negative.

drakken789

Hey thanks guys, oh another question, I've had about three differet kenwood Hu's among the car audio systems ive worked with, but I want something different.
I was looking at the JVC 3DLH Hu w/ MP3 and The PICT feature, do you think that is a good buy, and could you recommend some coaxials that would sound pretty clean

harrymay

hey subs1000, cc sux best buy rulz. jk, actually serivce at cc was better than bb. i really wish i had time to rewire my stereo, i just by passed the amps but im still using that bose harness with my pioneer hu. it does sound like heck right now, but i know it wounds better with real wires.

drakken789, i dont really recommend the jvc hu coz i had one in a yo taco an that went out after about three months. id definetly go with infinity coax's though.

one question, im weary about rewiring my system, how hard is it to rewire. (sorry i could search but i dont have any money to donate)

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

There are pics on my cardomain of my set up. It is a pretty low-budget deal, but I tried to use decent stuff so I still have some quality.

I like the sound quality of my Diamond Audios. Super warm and realistic. They are the low end (M3) but I got them for $100 shipped, so I can't complain about the price. I have the gain up to about 1/2 on my PG amp, which has a built in crossover.

I don't know about the M5. That is their midlevel, I think. Most people that get Diamond Audio just go all the way and get the HEX components. I have not heard them myself, but I have talked to several guys with them in maximas who swear by them.

I will say that speakers and amps are deceptive on their wattage ratings. It's all about quality and clarity. My amp is very clean power and the speakers sound great. If I hooked them up to a Kraco amp they would probably sound like crap.

If you don't want the speakers, give me a yell. I might be willing to upgrade if the price is right.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I love car audio, I just wish I could afford to play with it. Right now I just have gauges in my DIN. I wired my car with 4 gauge power, and ran 12gauge to the speakers. Our maxima's are sooo easy to work on, I just run the wire threw the hood release cable grommet.

btw, Chris, put a grommet on your cable where it passes threw the firewall

Bill Brasky

iTrader: (2)

hey, once you get those 6x9's installed, tell me if ya put an enclosure around them. I don't get near the bass the bose one's put out in the rear (can't even shake the mirrors) and was wondering if you do need an enclosure around them. I got 2001 Kappa 6x9's in the back...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

My bose never worked in the rear But I now have some Boss 6*9s in the back that shake my mirror with no problem.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

i have some polk 3-way 6x9's. i don't use them for bass since i put a polk gnx 12 in my trunk but they do have really good mid. what i really want to do is get a component system for the front and back. i want to put 1 way 6.5 inch mids in the back and put the tweeters on the rear pillars like i did in the front and put the the biggest mid speakers i can fit in the door, 6.5 if i can but i've never measured that area. i'm all about sound quality and i'd say the best thing you can do to you sound system is get some little 1 inch tweeters that you can mount somewhere that allows you to point them directly at you. i got some mobile authority tweeters and those were the best things i've bought for an audio system in a long time. music is clear and crisp now.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I think I am going to put a cross over on them so that they will only play highs and mids. Even if I don't, they will be nearly impossible to hear over my sub. I have a JL 10w3 in the trunk, so I don't really need the bass. They are cheap ebay speakers just for rear fill. When I get some more money, I think I am going to try and get Diamond Audio HEX components and put my coaxials in the back for rear fill. I also hope to uprgrade to a JL 10w7 or two 10" subs of some kind. This probably won't be for a while, though.

How much power are you putting to your Kappas? They will probably run better with a lot more power to them. I had a set of Altec Lansing seperates (this is like 8-9 years ago) and they were sooo quiet when I tried to run them off the deck power (Sony Mobile ES 40x4 I think). When I finally got an amp, they sounded 100 times better and louder. They needed the power to perform well. Plus, Sony power is ridiculously low. Anyway, I would give them good clean power and see if they sound better. They should definitely be able to "shake your mirrors."