Finally finished the BlehmCo RSTB!
12-04-2003, 05:24 PM
#1
Finally finished the BlehmCo RSTB!
Go here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=2529150
You reallllly want to spend your christmas money early, don't you?!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=2529150
You reallllly want to spend your christmas money early, don't you?!
12-05-2003, 01:43 AM
#2
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Go here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=2529150
You reallllly want to spend your christmas money early, don't you?!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=2529150
You reallllly want to spend your christmas money early, don't you?! Hey Matt, right now I have the ST front and rear sway bars on my car, along with a FSTB. How much of an improvement in handling will this RSTB do for the car. Oh yeah, I also have Eibach Prokit on Konis.
12-05-2003, 07:44 AM
#6
Omegasrk, I noticed a difference, but can't say how much.. it will obviosuly be slightly less with a ton of suspension mods over a stock car, but every benefit helps, right?! 
I've got all the toys you have, plus warpspeed SFCs and a lower tie bar and still noticed an improvement in handling, so that's gotta say something...
Izzy, got yours- thanks!
Brian.. with install? $$$$$$$$$$$
I've got all the toys you have, plus warpspeed SFCs and a lower tie bar and still noticed an improvement in handling, so that's gotta say something...
Izzy, got yours- thanks!
Brian.. with install? $$$$$$$$$$$
12-05-2003, 10:09 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Omegasrk, I noticed a difference, but can't say how much.. it will obviosuly be slightly less with a ton of suspension mods over a stock car, but every benefit helps, right?!
I've got all the toys you have, plus warpspeed SFCs and a lower tie bar and still noticed an improvement in handling, so that's gotta say something...
Izzy, got yours- thanks!
Brian.. with install? $$$$$$$$$$$
I've got all the toys you have, plus warpspeed SFCs and a lower tie bar and still noticed an improvement in handling, so that's gotta say something...
Izzy, got yours- thanks!
Brian.. with install? $$$$$$$$$$$
Wow!!! That a lot of mods you have and yet you felt a difference. I might consider buying them, but I need to find a means of paying for them. Also, may I ask, at what setting number are your Konis at for front and rear.
12-05-2003, 11:01 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Omegasrk, I take paypal.. you can buy on credit! As for the konis, they're about halfway..
Austin, have you look at the original thread lately? (you're first on the list, bud!)
As for the konis, they're about halfway..Austin, have you look at the original thread lately? (you're first on the list, bud!)
12-05-2003, 01:44 PM
#12
I'll see what I can do on some of the other parts, but I think you'll agree these prices are already a STEAL for handmade parts! They barely cover my labor, let alone all the tools I've invested in so that I can produce this stuff.
12-05-2003, 10:21 PM
#20
i wonder what other goodies 3rd gens will get.. kepp making ideas matt... your gonna corner the market for 3rd gen mods.... btw i am sending you the rest can you im me crazyizzy0619 to discuss something quick.. please thanks!
12-05-2003, 10:37 PM
#21
Originally Posted by crazy4maxima
i wonder what other goodies 3rd gens will get.. kepp making ideas matt... your gonna corner the market for 3rd gen mods.... btw i am sending you the rest can you im me crazyizzy0619 to discuss something quick.. please thanks!
btw Matt... could you give us some more info on that lower tie bar. If you buy Stage II and you already have Stage I, then you have to remove Stage I to use Stage II right?
Any chance of the Parallel Link Replacement coming wayyyy down in price?
12-05-2003, 11:22 PM
#23
I'm looking for answers too (thought was the only one hence didn't ask). I think more clarification is needed on those other suspension mods. They're kind of esoteric to me. Second stage still needs "modification", it says there. All this is part of the reason why they ain't selling like the straightforward RSTB.
12-05-2003, 11:44 PM
#24
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
The tie bar and Stage 2 braces are a good idea I think. Other cars like your usual FWD rice rockets all have lower tie bars available. If you go under the car and look at the left and right suspension you'll notice that they aren't attached to each other where the control arms end. The tie bar is like a FSTB for the bottom of the suspension instead of the top and basically does the same sort of job.
Matt nicely filled the suspension mod vacuum by creating BOTH the lower tie bars and the long-overdue RSTB.
Matt nicely filled the suspension mod vacuum by creating BOTH the lower tie bars and the long-overdue RSTB.
12-06-2003, 08:06 AM
#25
Shawn I think you have to remove stage I since Stage I is the front part of Stage II so that leads me to believe that yes you have to remove stage I in order to use stage II.
Yea I have the Stage II Lower Tie bar in my hands and the quality and Matt's workmanship is great. Feels like a very strong piece and his customer service is great, he gets back in matter of a couple of hours. Oh yeah he also did quite a nice job on painting the bar, I will take pics and write up a thread once I install it on the difference in feel and how install is. Matt's a good guy and can expect a lot of purchases from me, soon my order for the ground strap kit and RSTB is in my mind. Thanks Matt for the 3rd gen products and make a turbo kti already.
Yea I have the Stage II Lower Tie bar in my hands and the quality and Matt's workmanship is great. Feels like a very strong piece and his customer service is great, he gets back in matter of a couple of hours. Oh yeah he also did quite a nice job on painting the bar, I will take pics and write up a thread once I install it on the difference in feel and how install is. Matt's a good guy and can expect a lot of purchases from me, soon my order for the ground strap kit and RSTB is in my mind. Thanks Matt for the 3rd gen products and make a turbo kti already
.
12-06-2003, 08:24 AM
#26
Very true guys.. some explanation is needed on the Lower Tie bars.... I'll photochop a pick of the stage I and II bars and show the differences in another reply, but yes.. the Stage II is the Stage I plus more bracing. to install the stage II, the stage I must come off.
The stage I is a bar that ties the front of the control arms together- similar to the FSTB up top, but this guy goes on bottom. I've had several people try them and were VERY enthusiastic about the results!
Install is very straight forward-
1. leave the car on the ground, don't even bother jacking it up (long arms help though!)...
2. remove the large 27mm nuts on the front of the control arm. remove the washers behind it also.
3. slide the tie bar over the ends.
4. replace the 27mm nuts. leave the washers off, as the tie bar takes up the room on the threads they used to (In fact, the pieces on the ends of the tie bar are made from the same washers that I welded into the ends of the tubing)
5. torque the 27mm nuts down. If you had to jack up the car, make sure you do this part with the front wheels on the ground, or you risk ruining your control arm bushings.
6. Drive happy!
the Stage II bar is the same thing, only considerably more bracing is done..
the install is the same, except there are two bolts on the control arm gusset that need to be removed also.
1b. Jack the car up and remove the bolts on the front of the control arm, just as you did on the stage I-- (you're going to have to jack the car up to get to these bolts. just be sure not to torque down the front control arm nuts until the car is on the ground.
2b. slide the stage II tie bar on the front mounts and you'll see the two rear mounting points that you'll be working with.
3b. For the hole on the driver's side, you'll have to take a dremel or die grinder and slightly (like 1/8") enlarge the hole in the gusset so the tie bar can fit in there. The pass side of the car shouldn't require any work to fit in.
4b. slide the tie bar onto the car. If the bar needs a bit of 'encouragement' with a hammer to completely seat, go ahead. Every car is just a hair different on frame alignment due to their age, so making them fit every car isn't entirely possible. Every one that I've sold so far has fit just fine, but yours may be a bit off due to some frame tweaking over time (potholes, curbs, accidents, etc)
5b. Now torque the rear two bolts down. I believe it's a 22mm socket you'll need. a deep socket or short extension may be required. put the front bolts on by hand, and you may want to even thread them down to almost snug, but don't torque them yet. that control arm bushing needs to pivot until you get the car on the ground.
6b. lower the car back to the ground, and NOW you can tighten the 27mm nuts on the front of the control arms.
7b. put away your tools, clean up the grease from all the mess on the pass side of the car, and drive happy!
The stage I is a bar that ties the front of the control arms together- similar to the FSTB up top, but this guy goes on bottom. I've had several people try them and were VERY enthusiastic about the results!
Install is very straight forward-
1. leave the car on the ground, don't even bother jacking it up (long arms help though!)...
2. remove the large 27mm nuts on the front of the control arm. remove the washers behind it also.
3. slide the tie bar over the ends.
4. replace the 27mm nuts. leave the washers off, as the tie bar takes up the room on the threads they used to (In fact, the pieces on the ends of the tie bar are made from the same washers that I welded into the ends of the tubing)
5. torque the 27mm nuts down. If you had to jack up the car, make sure you do this part with the front wheels on the ground, or you risk ruining your control arm bushings.
6. Drive happy!
the Stage II bar is the same thing, only considerably more bracing is done..
the install is the same, except there are two bolts on the control arm gusset that need to be removed also.
1b. Jack the car up and remove the bolts on the front of the control arm, just as you did on the stage I-- (you're going to have to jack the car up to get to these bolts. just be sure not to torque down the front control arm nuts until the car is on the ground.
2b. slide the stage II tie bar on the front mounts and you'll see the two rear mounting points that you'll be working with.
3b. For the hole on the driver's side, you'll have to take a dremel or die grinder and slightly (like 1/8") enlarge the hole in the gusset so the tie bar can fit in there. The pass side of the car shouldn't require any work to fit in.
4b. slide the tie bar onto the car. If the bar needs a bit of 'encouragement' with a hammer to completely seat, go ahead. Every car is just a hair different on frame alignment due to their age, so making them fit every car isn't entirely possible. Every one that I've sold so far has fit just fine, but yours may be a bit off due to some frame tweaking over time (potholes, curbs, accidents, etc)
5b. Now torque the rear two bolts down. I believe it's a 22mm socket you'll need. a deep socket or short extension may be required. put the front bolts on by hand, and you may want to even thread them down to almost snug, but don't torque them yet. that control arm bushing needs to pivot until you get the car on the ground.
6b. lower the car back to the ground, and NOW you can tighten the 27mm nuts on the front of the control arms.
7b. put away your tools, clean up the grease from all the mess on the pass side of the car, and drive happy!
12-06-2003, 08:39 AM
#27
Here's a pic of the Stage II. As you can see, the Stage I bar is actually PART OF the Stage II bar. i've got the whole thing on a jig in the garage. for the stage I, I just build the one piece. For the stage II, I add the rest of it on.
That was a prototype- the one that's actually on my car now.. the final version looks a little better on the angles and such. I couldn't see when I was doing those under the car, and it's fun welding while you're lying on your back underneath all the weld spatter! (I gotta get me a lift for christmas! )
Mr Gone, the parallel links should actually be higher, but I realize NOBODY would buy them then. I'm not making squat on them, but put them out there as an option for you anyway. I've also decided to use a better joint than the ones pictured- ones with teflon inserts so that they last longer and don't make as much noise.. That raised my cost another $50 on them, but I'm leaving the price where it is.
I've modified the mounting points on the radius rod on my car, and now they hardly make any noise at all. I completely forget they're on there now-- until I throw the car into a corner!!
I think that answers the main questions for now...
Who's up for a group deal on these guys too?
That was a prototype- the one that's actually on my car now.. the final version looks a little better on the angles and such. I couldn't see when I was doing those under the car, and it's fun welding while you're lying on your back underneath all the weld spatter! (I gotta get me a lift for christmas!
)Mr Gone, the parallel links should actually be higher, but I realize NOBODY would buy them then. I'm not making squat on them, but put them out there as an option for you anyway. I've also decided to use a better joint than the ones pictured- ones with teflon inserts so that they last longer and don't make as much noise.. That raised my cost another $50 on them, but I'm leaving the price where it is.
I've modified the mounting points on the radius rod on my car, and now they hardly make any noise at all. I completely forget they're on there now-- until I throw the car into a corner!!
I think that answers the main questions for now...
Who's up for a group deal on these guys too?
12-06-2003, 08:47 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,105
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Here's a pic of the Stage II. As you can see, the Stage I bar is actually PART OF the Stage II bar. i've got the whole thing on a jig in the garage. for the stage I, I just build the one piece. For the stage II, I add the rest of it on.
That was a prototype- the one that's actually on my car now.. the final version looks a little better on the angles and such. I couldn't see when I was doing those under the car, and it's fun welding while you're lying on your back underneath all the weld spatter! (I gotta get me a lift for christmas! )
Mr Gone, the parallel links should actually be higher, but I realize NOBODY would buy them then. I'm not making squat on them, but put them out there as an option for you anyway. I've also decided to use a better joint than the ones pictured- ones with teflon inserts so that they last longer and don't make as much noise.. That raised my cost another $50 on them, but I'm leaving the price where it is.
I've modified the mounting points on the radius rod on my car, and now they hardly make any noise at all. I completely forget they're on there now-- until I throw the car into a corner!!
I think that answers the main questions for now...
Who's up for a group deal on these guys too?
That was a prototype- the one that's actually on my car now.. the final version looks a little better on the angles and such. I couldn't see when I was doing those under the car, and it's fun welding while you're lying on your back underneath all the weld spatter! (I gotta get me a lift for christmas!
)Mr Gone, the parallel links should actually be higher, but I realize NOBODY would buy them then. I'm not making squat on them, but put them out there as an option for you anyway. I've also decided to use a better joint than the ones pictured- ones with teflon inserts so that they last longer and don't make as much noise.. That raised my cost another $50 on them, but I'm leaving the price where it is.
I've modified the mounting points on the radius rod on my car, and now they hardly make any noise at all. I completely forget they're on there now-- until I throw the car into a corner!!
I think that answers the main questions for now...
Who's up for a group deal on these guys too?
what kind of pricing am i looking at shipped to 02882?
edit: you should make some stickers..like the "handling by lotus" except "handling by blehmco" hahaha
12-06-2003, 09:10 AM
#29
Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
i will be interested in buying everything after the middle of january (except for maybe the RSTB, i think i can afford that now). i'm talking tie bar (stage2), parallel links, RSTB, ground wires..everything i dont already have.
what kind of pricing am i looking at shipped to 02882?
edit: you should make some stickers..like the "handling by lotus" except "handling by blehmco" hahaha
what kind of pricing am i looking at shipped to 02882?
edit: you should make some stickers..like the "handling by lotus" except "handling by blehmco" hahaha
I'm working on the stickers right now. hopefully I'll have some done by the time I ship the RSTBs..
As for the whole package, contact me when you're ready and I'll give you a number then. the prices on some of the materials I use are market demand, others (rear links) are parts that I purchase from a fab shop. so if their prices go up, I'll have to compensate.
12-06-2003, 10:46 AM
#30
Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
i will be interested in buying everything after the middle of january
Thanks on the additional info matt. You mention that you don't lose any more ground clearance with the stage II tie bar, does this mean in the step from stage I to stage II, or in general? If it's from stage I to stage II, how many inches of ground clearance do you lose with stage I to begin with?
12-06-2003, 11:22 AM
#31
the Stage I and II both have the same ground clearance.
I don't have specific numbers on xxx inches from the ground because I've got a LOT of suspension mods, plus everyone has different springs. I CAN tell you that I'm one of the lowest Maximas out there (unless you've got airbags or hydros), and I have yet to scrape the tie bar on anything while driving on Houston streets.
As for the loss of clearance, it's about 1" below the crossmember. Honestly, I don't think it's any lower than the front sway bar, PLUS that's directly between the front wheels. speed bumps and stuff won't be an issue at all- only when you're going over REALLY uneven streets..
So I really don't see scraping as a problem- even on my car.
I've had several orders for the tie bars and such already, so I'm going to go ahead and honor the prices I've given them.. I'll probably do another GD in the spring, or possibly shortly after Christmas so all you guys can spend the money that Grandma gave you!
and of course, if you guys want to buy multiple items at a time lter down the road, I'll be glad to give a 'package deal' on stuff then too.. I'll throw in shipping or knock a few % off or something.
I don't have specific numbers on xxx inches from the ground because I've got a LOT of suspension mods, plus everyone has different springs. I CAN tell you that I'm one of the lowest Maximas out there (unless you've got airbags or hydros), and I have yet to scrape the tie bar on anything while driving on Houston streets.
As for the loss of clearance, it's about 1" below the crossmember. Honestly, I don't think it's any lower than the front sway bar, PLUS that's directly between the front wheels. speed bumps and stuff won't be an issue at all- only when you're going over REALLY uneven streets..
So I really don't see scraping as a problem- even on my car.
I've had several orders for the tie bars and such already, so I'm going to go ahead and honor the prices I've given them.. I'll probably do another GD in the spring, or possibly shortly after Christmas so all you guys can spend the money that Grandma gave you!
and of course, if you guys want to buy multiple items at a time lter down the road, I'll be glad to give a 'package deal' on stuff then too.. I'll throw in shipping or knock a few % off or something.
12-06-2003, 05:49 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
I'm drooling over your products matt. Even with my max parked for a while I'm going to order some of your stuff after Christmas. What's next in the suspension dept? A VE specific FSTB? I'd buy one and get rid of my 5th gen bar, just so I could have a a matching FSTB and RSTB actually made for my car.
12-06-2003, 06:48 PM
#36
Originally Posted by pezking4
I'm drooling over your products matt. Even with my max parked for a while I'm going to order some of your stuff after Christmas. What's next in the suspension dept? A VE specific FSTB? I'd buy one and get rid of my 5th gen bar, just so I could have a a matching FSTB and RSTB actually made for my car.
12-06-2003, 10:33 PM
#37
The FSTB I'm not so sure on... My work isn't terribly pretty, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with using a 5th gen bar. if they fit, they fit. (nobody knows it's a 5th gen bar but you.) then again, 3rd and 4th gens share the exact same front brakes. pads, calipers, and rotors are even the same part #-- at least on aftermarket parts.
I've got a few other mods I'm working on right now. they're a bit more pricey, but waaay more important than trying to get into a market that's already full of discount house parts. I'd rather make stuff that you can't find already.
I've got a few other mods I'm working on right now. they're a bit more pricey, but waaay more important than trying to get into a market that's already full of discount house parts. I'd rather make stuff that you can't find already.
12-06-2003, 10:36 PM
#38
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 773
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I've got a few other mods I'm working on right now. they're a bit more pricey, but waaay more important than trying to get into a market that's already full of discount house parts. I'd rather make stuff that you can't find already.
