VTC's or suspension????
02-11-2004, 05:33 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
VTC's or suspension????
Ok, need a little help here. Last Friday I went by a local repair shop here in Tulsa and spoke with a "nissan mechanic". I was actually in there about my AC idler pulley, but I asked him about my VTC's and he said that I should not drive with them faulty for to long. He said that he has rebulit VTC's many times and would charge me about $450-480 in labor. He also said that if I drive with faulty VTC's for to long they could possible knock a hole through some plate in my engine and basically destroy it. Does this sound right? I've never heard of this happening with anyone else.
Reason I ask is, because I'm thinking about taking my car in on Friday to have the VTC's rebulit, but I'm trying to decide which would be better to do at this point. My cv joints are starting to click pretty bad when I turn, and I'm wondering if I should have the cv joints replaced and replace my springs and struts with sprint and Tokio or if it is more beneficial to have the VTC's replaced at this point. I changed my oil filter to the Toyota filiter and haven't had the VTC's tick that much since then. What are your suggestions???
Reason I ask is, because I'm thinking about taking my car in on Friday to have the VTC's rebulit, but I'm trying to decide which would be better to do at this point. My cv joints are starting to click pretty bad when I turn, and I'm wondering if I should have the cv joints replaced and replace my springs and struts with sprint and Tokio or if it is more beneficial to have the VTC's replaced at this point. I changed my oil filter to the Toyota filiter and haven't had the VTC's tick that much since then. What are your suggestions???
02-11-2004, 06:25 AM
#2
My VTCs tick like a **** and I've been driving like that for a year. I bought my car from my brother and he said it started ticking pretty bad at around 120-125k (it has 147k now). Of course, all cars are different (yours may blow up at any time -- j/k) but I can't remember anyone saying they put a hole in anything. If that were to happen, it likely would have happened to mine long ago.
I would definitely do the CV joints first. If you are that worried about the VTCs, then ground them. I am sure you could go another year with your VTCs ticking, but when your axles go bad, it can be messy.
I would definitely do the CV joints first. If you are that worried about the VTCs, then ground them. I am sure you could go another year with your VTCs ticking, but when your axles go bad, it can be messy.
02-11-2004, 07:38 AM
#3
i say fix the cv first....the vtc guy seems like he really wants you to get it done quick which kinda questions his experience/motive....could he by any chance supply names of people that are happy with his vtc rebuild and still have the car running good and all that? If he turns out to be true to his word, cv axles and vtcs. suspension can wait as long as you're not bouncing all over. if not..well cvs. besides, they are real cheap and easy to change...you should be able to do it in ~2 hrs yourself at a cost of about $120 or so (fresh tranny oil, seals, axle - $60)
02-11-2004, 09:55 AM
#5
I've only heard of one person having their VTC assemblies break. It ruined the whole motor because of course it allows the cam timing to go haywire. You are "probably" okay with letting them tack for awhile. It's good that people are taking my advice and using the Toy filter. I gotta take my own advice and get some more. 
If your CVs are clicking bad(for some time), I'd do those first. It's cheaper anyway. Just replace both assemblies with some quality aftermarket units. Remember to replace both tranny output shaft seals too.
If you don't know how to replace them, get a Chiltons/Haynes/Nissan FSM. It's pretty easy.
Also take this opportunity to flush the tranny with new fluid
If your CVs are clicking bad(for some time), I'd do those first. It's cheaper anyway. Just replace both assemblies with some quality aftermarket units. Remember to replace both tranny output shaft seals too.
If you don't know how to replace them, get a Chiltons/Haynes/Nissan FSM. It's pretty easy.
Also take this opportunity to flush the tranny with new fluid
02-11-2004, 10:02 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
My CV's haven't been clicking real bad, but it has been noticable for about the past 9 months whenever I make hard turns. But I figured that with 167k on my Max I should take this oppurtunity to replace the cv's and original springs and struts.
As far as my VTC's, I started using the Toyota filter about 2 month ago and since then I've only heard the VTC's tick about twice. And that was only after the car idled for an extended period of time.
As far as my VTC's, I started using the Toyota filter about 2 month ago and since then I've only heard the VTC's tick about twice. And that was only after the car idled for an extended period of time.
do the vtcs tick and sound like lifters going :clack clack clack:?
02-11-2004, 11:32 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 308
Can someone hook me up with the toyota filter #, My car only has 35k on it, and i just changed my oil and used a p.o.s. fram oil filter and it ticks like none other. Also does someone have the link to the thread where they compared what oil was better for the max?
02-11-2004, 01:38 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
lophix, I was checking out your website and I like the way your car sits. What size tire are you running, because I love you wheel gap (or lack there of) and it seems really low for ebiachs.
02-11-2004, 02:42 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Hey are there any other write ups for installing springs and struts, besides the one on 4dsc.com. The write up on that site is kinda confusing to me, when it talks about filling up the new struts with oil. Do you have to do this to all new struts or just the Tokicos?
02-11-2004, 02:56 PM
#19
Grant, I've been meaning to reply but haven't lol.
Your VTC's aren't bad, lol (Red92MaxSE's on the other hand.....
). They are just in the baby stages.
Right now I'm almost done installing my suspension stuff, the oil thing, I just used Automatic Transmission Fluid and dumped alittle in (if you have too much it will spill out the sides, if it doesnt do that, then just pull the strut out and see how much is in there (you can tell by how high it goes up the side of the strut. I filled mine to about 3" from the top).
Your VTC's aren't bad, lol (Red92MaxSE's on the other hand.....
). They are just in the baby stages.Right now I'm almost done installing my suspension stuff, the oil thing, I just used Automatic Transmission Fluid and dumped alittle in (if you have too much it will spill out the sides, if it doesnt do that, then just pull the strut out and see how much is in there (you can tell by how high it goes up the side of the strut. I filled mine to about 3" from the top).
02-11-2004, 03:55 PM
#21
Using your current ones? Will bounce like a lowrider on switches
Using new oem? Will be okay for a little bit, THEN bounce like a low rider on switches
Using new oem? Will be okay for a little bit, THEN bounce like a low rider on switches
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
What are the draw backs of just replacing my springs and going with Eibachs, Intrax or Sprint with oem struts??
02-11-2004, 04:03 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Well, that sucks. I'm not trying to sound like a cheap skate , but I'm trying to do this for as cheap as possible.(axels, springs, struts) I have a baby boy that will be here at the end of May and bonus checks only stretch so far. Any suggetions? I saw a combo of Srint and Tokico for $458 shipped and with cv's running about $150, I'm looking at spending a little of $600.
02-11-2004, 04:05 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Using your current ones? Will bounce like a lowrider on switches
Using new oem? Will be okay for a little bit, THEN bounce like a low rider on switches
Using new oem? Will be okay for a little bit, THEN bounce like a low rider on switches
you're one of a kind, Jeff. lol
02-11-2004, 04:10 PM
#24
Grant, you could try looking for used ones, MaDMaX024 wants to sell his for another setup, might want to talk with him.
Sadly I think suspension is the most expensive thing to upgrade on the car
Sadly I think suspension is the most expensive thing to upgrade on the car
02-11-2004, 04:17 PM
#25
Originally Posted by bobbydigital450
Can someone hook me up with the toyota filter #, My car only has 35k on it, and i just changed my oil and used a p.o.s. fram oil filter and it ticks like none other. Also does someone have the link to the thread where they compared what oil was better for the max?
02-11-2004, 04:29 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Actually after doing some more looking and figuring I can pick up the Eibach, Kyb combo for $426.90 (From Brian = Internetautomart) or the Sprint, Kyb combo for $50 less. I like those numbers, which combo do you guys recommend?
02-11-2004, 04:30 PM
#27
Ok. On a budget. I'd search for some used springs. ie.. ST or Eibach. Sprints and similar springs will kill your camber(ie.. tires) unless you spend $ on camber kits and get your rear suspension adjustable for camber. If you can't find some GOOD used shocks, buy Tokico front shocks and some generic rears. There is ALOT more weight on the front of the car. This would get you by in a pinch. ie.. KYBs might be a good choice. Then if there any $ left over, try to buy an used ST or ADDCO rear sway.
If you are really cheap, you "could" buy a boot kit for the cv joint and clean/regrease/reboot the CV IF they aren't too bad. I'd go ahead and do both boots on whatever side the current bad cv joint is one. I did this on my old maxima and it performed fine. but the boot was only split for a week or two and never developed a click.
If you are really cheap, you "could" buy a boot kit for the cv joint and clean/regrease/reboot the CV IF they aren't too bad. I'd go ahead and do both boots on whatever side the current bad cv joint is one. I did this on my old maxima and it performed fine. but the boot was only split for a week or two and never developed a click.
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Well, that sucks. I'm not trying to sound like a cheap skate , but I'm trying to do this for as cheap as possible.(axels, springs, struts) I have a baby boy that will be here at the end of May and bonus checks only stretch so far. Any suggetions? I saw a combo of Srint and Tokico for $458 shipped and with cv's running about $150, I'm looking at spending a little of $600.
02-11-2004, 04:37 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Ok. On a budget. I'd search for some used springs. ie.. ST or Eibach. Sprints and similar springs will kill your camber(ie.. tires) unless you spend $ on camber kits and get your rear suspension adjustable for camber.
02-11-2004, 04:38 PM
#29
Jeff, he posted above that the CV's are clicking
Guys, seriously, the RSB..... Best suspension mod, makes such a huge difference, It's awesome. I listened to Jeff when he told me to get one and couldn't be happier.
Guys, seriously, the RSB..... Best suspension mod, makes such a huge difference, It's awesome. I listened to Jeff when he told me to get one and couldn't be happier.
02-11-2004, 04:45 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Well, the Eibach, KYB combo would fit into my budget at $426, and if the sprint springs are going to mess up my camber I will stick with the Eibachs.
Well, it looks like I messed up on calculating the shipping (added the springs after the strut order was already calculated) and it will be around $469. Which still isn't bad, but I'm not as happy.
After more searching it seems that I could pick up the Kyb's from brian and the Eibachs from ebay (new) and it will run $436, so I'm happy again.
02-11-2004, 05:16 PM
#31
Originally Posted by MrGone
Jeff, he posted above that the CV's are clicking
Guys, seriously, the RSB..... Best suspension mod, makes such a huge difference, It's awesome. I listened to Jeff when he told me to get one and couldn't be happier.
Guys, seriously, the RSB..... Best suspension mod, makes such a huge difference, It's awesome. I listened to Jeff when he told me to get one and couldn't be happier.
02-12-2004, 05:37 AM
#32
Originally Posted by vwink182
Even better than rims?
TIRES otoh are what makes a MAJOR difference in handling, I'm referring to getting a good tire not the size of the tire.
02-12-2004, 06:43 AM
#33
Interesting....I was under the impression that moving to a 16 inch or 17 would improve handleing dramatically. Eibachs will do a lot more for me? How about just a FSTB and RSTB to compliment my factory sways [impoorlikeeveryoneelse]
[impoorlikeeveryoneelse]
02-12-2004, 09:40 AM
#34
Originally Posted by vwink182
Interesting....I was under the impression that moving to a 16 inch or 17 would improve handleing dramatically. Eibachs will do a lot more for me? How about just a FSTB and RSTB to compliment my factory sways [impoorlikeeveryoneelse]
[impoorlikeeveryoneelse]
02-12-2004, 09:45 AM
#35
Plus sizing wheels/tires can and do improve handling. Even going from the oem 15s/205-65-15 to some 16s with 215-55 or 225-50-16s will noticably help performance.
More or less than a RSB?? Not really a fair question as the wheels/tires will help overall handling but won't change the handling characteristics. The RSB will help the car understeer ALOT less. Which helps overall handling but in a different way. For $120-ish, it's one of the best bang/buck mods out there. I've heard similar from SFCs too. Also not too expensive at $150-ish. Both are alot less then a decent set of 16s and tires. Even used.
More or less than a RSB?? Not really a fair question as the wheels/tires will help overall handling but won't change the handling characteristics. The RSB will help the car understeer ALOT less. Which helps overall handling but in a different way. For $120-ish, it's one of the best bang/buck mods out there. I've heard similar from SFCs too. Also not too expensive at $150-ish. Both are alot less then a decent set of 16s and tires. Even used.
02-12-2004, 10:02 AM
#36
Cool man, good info. I have an ebay fstb and I could tell an immediate diff with that. Looking forward to trying out a RSB.. hopefully this summer I can work on the handling more. KYB's are in the mail...they should improve my handling a lot....since my fronts are blown:P
02-12-2004, 01:41 PM
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Ok. On a budget. I'd search for some used springs. ie.. ST or Eibach. Sprints and similar springs will kill your camber(ie.. tires) unless you spend $ on camber kits and get your rear suspension adjustable for camber.
I just want to make sure I understand this correctly. I shouldn't have to buy a camber kit if I go with Eibachs springs, correct? The camber kit is only required for Sprint or Intrax springs??
02-12-2004, 01:46 PM
#38
Can't guarantee it. I had the same setup on two cars. One car had a slight camber problem and the other didn't. I think it was a function of how well some of your stock suspension parts are. The Eibachs have the best chance at not requiring you to need camber correction because it lowers the car the least. After about 1.5" (est), it's almost guaranteed, you need some type of camber correction due to the suspension geometry.
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
I just want to make sure I understand this correctly. I shouldn't have to buy a camber kit if I go with Eibachs springs, correct? The camber kit is only required for Sprint or Intrax springs??
02-12-2004, 05:06 PM
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 1,544
Can some one please let me know exactly what parts I need to order to fix my CV's? I think I'm going to order the KYB's from interntautomart's site. And pick up the Intrax springs from discount tire direct. I can get the Intrax's for about $40 cheaper than the Eibachs, so I will have a lower drop (which I like) and have money left over for a camber kit.
Also, where is the best place to pick up these Cv parts, Autozone?? Internetautomart????????
Also, where is the best place to pick up these Cv parts, Autozone?? Internetautomart????????