looking for help tryin to find a stall convertor for 94 vg and or any other performance parts in the transmisson if u know of any. I know i should try to swap to manual but this is for bracket racing not regular drag. I'm tryin to keep my times exact.

 

try IPT www.importperformancetrans.com they seem to do a lot of auto tranny buildups including custom converters.

 

PM aaron92SE on his auto projects. he's got most of the mods you need for bracket racing (high stall, valve body mod, etc).

 

Thanks a lot guys i appreciate the help

 

quick question I havent taken my auto trans class at school so I was wonderi what a performance valve body would do for my car?

 

Quicker shifts

 

If you plan to bracket race in the VG, i would NOT recommend a high stall TC unless you're able to race in slicks. B/c the higher stall would create traction problems. And anything more than a chirp from the tires will mess up those 60's and REALLY mess up your ETs.

You want to remain as consistant as possible and still take care of the car. I highly recommend a tranny cooler for every tranny. Then I recommend a VB mod to quicken those shifts. The faster it shifts, the less slippage occurs and the less wear occurs. That amounts to less heat, especially in conjuction with the tranny cooler.

Next, I would definitely get an aftermarket coolant temp gauge. You HAVE to launch at the same temperature every time. You're car will be faster if you launch at 170 degrees versus 200 degrees. Another tip, try to launch your car at the coldest temperature possible b/c that is when you will find to be the most consistant since there is no heat soak occuring. But you can't launch at 140 degrees everytime b/c sometimes you won't have enough time to let the motor cool down for the next round of elimination. So I usually find that 160-170 is my best temp to launch at since I usually have atleast 30 minutes inbetween rounds.

For your VG, you will need good tires. They produce a lot more low end torque than my car, so traction could be an issue stock. If you get more than ONE chirp from your tires, then you need better tires. That one chirp can hurt your 60' by more than 2 hundredths of a second. And that 2 hundredths of a second can amount to 4 hundredths by the end of the 1/4 mile. That will make you lose the race.

So, this is your list of mods that you'll need to have a consistant bracket racing machine:

- Coolant temp gauge
- VB mod (safety measure)
- Tranny cooler (safety measure)
- 160* Tstat (so the thermostat doesn't open halfway down the track and provide a rush of coolant while you're racing) (Not THAT important, but I just thought I'd throw it in there since it's cheap and easy)
- Good tires that won't allow more than one little chirp from them
- An ambient temp and humidity gauge
- And a logbook to write down your weather conditions and timeslips for future reference.

Those are the most BASIC things I can think of. I have a LOT more stuff working for me in my favor. But those should get you off on the right foot.

Oh yeah, while you're testing your car, always try to cut good/safe consistant lights. I like to try to cut .530 lights since that keeps me a healthy distance from redlighting. My average is .540-.560, which will usually win you a lot of races in the footbrake category if you're able to hit your dial in. Have fun!

*edit* I HIGHLY recommend www.edgeracingconverters.com

They are one of the oldest and most experienced performance TC shops in the nation. Usually, the older you are, the better database they have saved up and that means they are able to make you a TC that's right for you the FIRST TIME. And their 100% customer satisfaction guarantee is OUT OF THIS WORLD. I had a question and the owner of the shop called me back while he was on vacation in Alaska. And he said if I'm not satisfied with my TC 6 months down the road, he would simply tweak it a little more. There customer service, experience, price, and quality of product is simply amazing!! Blows LevelTen and Protorque out of the water!!!!!!