Gxe Suspension Options?
#1
Gxe Suspension Options?
Hi Guys!
On most boards, I would have performed a search but since that feature is unavailable to me (please reconsider your search policy), I have to ask. Sorry if this is a redundant question.
ok, here is the scoop:
My 1993 GXE has over 160k miles and I wonder if the suspension has ever been changed. I have owned it for over a year and a half but recently moved from an area where you only go in straight lines (IL) to the hilly and windy roads of Georgia. This suspension is definately shot, and I am starting to be concerned about safety.
I am looking for all my options. I do not want to get crazy on price, and second-hand SE parts are not out of the question. I am not looking for a handling monster (I have a e36 M3 for that) and ride comfort would be nice. I don't mind a little NVH.
Here is my first question: Is the front strut the same for both the GXE and SE? If different, will the SE strut fit into my GXE? Looking at the price of new springs, I would MUCH rather get some second-hand SE springs.
Looking at an aftermarket solution, whats the verdict on the following:
Tokico shocks/struts
~$309 for all four corners, will also need stiffer springs
will these work with used SE springs?
KYB GR-2 shocks/struts
~$235 for four
do these require stiffer springs? again, would used SE springs be ok?
Sachs/Boge shocks/struts
~$199 for all four
I like this price better than the above!
SE springs? Would this be a good match with SE springs or should I stay GXE springs?
Koni makes great products, but way too expensive for my intentions with this car. ~$520
Anybody have used SE springs for sale? What is the going rate for used SE springs? I will probably check with the junkyards.
Are there any fitament issues with using SE parts on a GXE? How different is the GXE suspension from SE?
What else should I consider replacing "while I am in there"? i.e. bushings, bumpstops, boots, mounts, etc.
What do you recommend?
TIA!
Collin
On most boards, I would have performed a search but since that feature is unavailable to me (please reconsider your search policy), I have to ask. Sorry if this is a redundant question.
ok, here is the scoop:
My 1993 GXE has over 160k miles and I wonder if the suspension has ever been changed. I have owned it for over a year and a half but recently moved from an area where you only go in straight lines (IL) to the hilly and windy roads of Georgia. This suspension is definately shot, and I am starting to be concerned about safety.
I am looking for all my options. I do not want to get crazy on price, and second-hand SE parts are not out of the question. I am not looking for a handling monster (I have a e36 M3 for that) and ride comfort would be nice. I don't mind a little NVH.
Here is my first question: Is the front strut the same for both the GXE and SE? If different, will the SE strut fit into my GXE? Looking at the price of new springs, I would MUCH rather get some second-hand SE springs.
Looking at an aftermarket solution, whats the verdict on the following:
Tokico shocks/struts
~$309 for all four corners, will also need stiffer springs
will these work with used SE springs?
KYB GR-2 shocks/struts
~$235 for four
do these require stiffer springs? again, would used SE springs be ok?
Sachs/Boge shocks/struts
~$199 for all four
I like this price better than the above!
SE springs? Would this be a good match with SE springs or should I stay GXE springs?
Koni makes great products, but way too expensive for my intentions with this car. ~$520
Anybody have used SE springs for sale? What is the going rate for used SE springs? I will probably check with the junkyards.
Are there any fitament issues with using SE parts on a GXE? How different is the GXE suspension from SE?
What else should I consider replacing "while I am in there"? i.e. bushings, bumpstops, boots, mounts, etc.
What do you recommend?
TIA!
Collin
#2
our car don't have shocks, they're struts. If I were you, I'd go after the gr2 struts set. Don't waste your moneys and time with the rest, esp Koni...too much hassles cuz its front doesn't even comes with a strut house (how retarded for that price...) While T. Blue struts is just as good as Gr2 but for the price, you're better off using that extra moneys you'd saved on something elses. If you've heard of good things about Tokico, you've must heard that in regards to their white series which is right on par with Kyb Agx, both comes with an adjustable damper. Hot stuffs. It's a damn shame they don't make em for our vehicle.
#4
https://maxima.org/forums/audio-electronics/296488-tv-5th-gen.html
Sorry, I don't know much about the springs or anything, but here is a group deal for the GR-2's. $200 shipped I think for your car.
Sorry, I don't know much about the springs or anything, but here is a group deal for the GR-2's. $200 shipped I think for your car.
#6
if your car is over 150K, you better change the springs....the stock ones will eventually goes soft. Then you have to tear everything loose again, not very convenient. Just get Eibach, they'll last you 1millions+ miles.
in regards to the rest of questions:
bump stopper, I'd get Kyb strut boots cuz it comes with its own bump stopper.
mounts, I wouldn't waste moneys on those things not unless it makes funny noises. They hardly goes bad.
bushings, there is no bushings other than a bearing for the two front struts. There were none in the back.
gxe vs. se, contact each manufacturers to ensure that you got the right parts....don't gamble cuz this suspension project will kill plenty of your vital energies and moneys.
in regards to the rest of questions:
bump stopper, I'd get Kyb strut boots cuz it comes with its own bump stopper.
mounts, I wouldn't waste moneys on those things not unless it makes funny noises. They hardly goes bad.
bushings, there is no bushings other than a bearing for the two front struts. There were none in the back.
gxe vs. se, contact each manufacturers to ensure that you got the right parts....don't gamble cuz this suspension project will kill plenty of your vital energies and moneys.
#11
you might as well rebuild the whole suspension at this point.
in no particular order here is what I recomend.
1. The strut mounts are probably bad. Look at them and see if the rubber is cracked...I would bet they are with this many years on them...I know mine were on every maxima I have owned (90, 92, 93 and 89 parts car)
2. Rebuild the front bushings. There are 2 in each control arm. They are not expensive and if you dont have a friend with a press Matt93SE can do a control arm swap with you...I am not sure where his thread is but its reasonable. Also there are urethane bushings available for the front.
3. replace the rear bushings in the trailing arms and parallel links. I think it cost me $80 for all the bushings I needed from courtesy. Those you can press out and install yourself. I used a vise and different size sockets. There are urethane bushing available for the rear also.
4. Springs...you are better off buying Eibach. They are the best handling and they are not an extreme drop.
5. KYB are good struts but they are basically aftermarket replacement for stock struts...they really arent performance struts. That being said they offer a pretty nice ride with Eibachs and perform well for an everyday driver. I have them on my car but I have Intrax springs. I went the cheap route since I will not be doing track type driving and will not drive the car much.
6. Check your ball joints while you are at it. Chances are they will need replacing too. They are not too expensive.
7. Get strut boots with built in bump stops. The KYBs are nice.
I know all of this sounds like a lot but to me if you are worried about safety then rebuild everything. Thats what I did and am glad I did. My suspension is very tight now and I dont have to worry about wearing out tires because of a worn control arm bushing.
Good luck,
in no particular order here is what I recomend.
1. The strut mounts are probably bad. Look at them and see if the rubber is cracked...I would bet they are with this many years on them...I know mine were on every maxima I have owned (90, 92, 93 and 89 parts car)
2. Rebuild the front bushings. There are 2 in each control arm. They are not expensive and if you dont have a friend with a press Matt93SE can do a control arm swap with you...I am not sure where his thread is but its reasonable. Also there are urethane bushings available for the front.
3. replace the rear bushings in the trailing arms and parallel links. I think it cost me $80 for all the bushings I needed from courtesy. Those you can press out and install yourself. I used a vise and different size sockets. There are urethane bushing available for the rear also.
4. Springs...you are better off buying Eibach. They are the best handling and they are not an extreme drop.
5. KYB are good struts but they are basically aftermarket replacement for stock struts...they really arent performance struts. That being said they offer a pretty nice ride with Eibachs and perform well for an everyday driver. I have them on my car but I have Intrax springs. I went the cheap route since I will not be doing track type driving and will not drive the car much.
6. Check your ball joints while you are at it. Chances are they will need replacing too. They are not too expensive.
7. Get strut boots with built in bump stops. The KYBs are nice.
I know all of this sounds like a lot but to me if you are worried about safety then rebuild everything. Thats what I did and am glad I did. My suspension is very tight now and I dont have to worry about wearing out tires because of a worn control arm bushing.
Good luck,
#12
Thanks for the info! That is very good stuff to know!
If my Maxima were my main performance vehicle, I would consider doing all of that. I came in looking for a pea shooter and left with a bazooka!
If the total cost of this entire upgrade is over $300 (not including labor, I will DIY as much as possible), I will sell the max and go without a second vehicle. I'm already in the process of making the ultimate handling street/track vehicle (and getting very, very close), and can't justify the cost of doing it twice (once to each car). :/
unfortunately, cost IS an object with this car. Getting back to factory spec or slightly better for affordable money would be ideal. I just can't see spending 33% of the total car's worth on just suspension.
If my Maxima were my main performance vehicle, I would consider doing all of that. I came in looking for a pea shooter and left with a bazooka!
If the total cost of this entire upgrade is over $300 (not including labor, I will DIY as much as possible), I will sell the max and go without a second vehicle. I'm already in the process of making the ultimate handling street/track vehicle (and getting very, very close), and can't justify the cost of doing it twice (once to each car). :/
unfortunately, cost IS an object with this car. Getting back to factory spec or slightly better for affordable money would be ideal. I just can't see spending 33% of the total car's worth on just suspension.
#13
Originally Posted by Hornswoggler
Thanks for the info! That is very good stuff to know!
If my Maxima were my main performance vehicle, I would consider doing all of that. I came in looking for a pea shooter and left with a bazooka!
If the total cost of this entire upgrade is over $300 (not including labor, I will DIY as much as possible), I will sell the max and go without a second vehicle. I'm already in the process of making the ultimate handling street/track vehicle (and getting very, very close), and can't justify the cost of doing it twice (once to each car). :/
unfortunately, cost IS an object with this car. Getting back to factory spec or slightly better for affordable money would be ideal. I just can't see spending 33% of the total car's worth on just suspension.
If my Maxima were my main performance vehicle, I would consider doing all of that. I came in looking for a pea shooter and left with a bazooka!
If the total cost of this entire upgrade is over $300 (not including labor, I will DIY as much as possible), I will sell the max and go without a second vehicle. I'm already in the process of making the ultimate handling street/track vehicle (and getting very, very close), and can't justify the cost of doing it twice (once to each car). :/
unfortunately, cost IS an object with this car. Getting back to factory spec or slightly better for affordable money would be ideal. I just can't see spending 33% of the total car's worth on just suspension.
OK I understand. I would just get a set SE springs then. You can probably get them cheap or free from someone that has upgraded...thats what you mentioned first.
I would however replace all the bushings and such that I mentioned. It will be over $300 (with struts but bushings are not that expensive) but it will be at factory specs and save mileage on your BMW having the Max in good enough shape that you dont mind driving it. Now when I say go ahead and replace the bushings obviously I mean if they are worn out. All of mine were so I did it. Yours may not be though...you just have to check them.
But IMO its no use in putting new struts on a car with worn out bushings and or strut mounts.
#14
great, thanks. that is exactly what I am looking for!
Here is my current plan:
KYB GR-2 struts (4 needed)
used SE springs
replace the strut mounts (all 4?)
replace rear trailing arm bushings (RTAB's)
Front control arm bushings (total of 4, 2 each side)
KYB strut boots with bumpstops
Anything I am missing? I will do some more research later on the best places to buy these, best brands to get (if not already mentioned), and estimated price for the parts.
Here is my current plan:
KYB GR-2 struts (4 needed)
used SE springs
replace the strut mounts (all 4?)
replace rear trailing arm bushings (RTAB's)
Front control arm bushings (total of 4, 2 each side)
KYB strut boots with bumpstops
Anything I am missing? I will do some more research later on the best places to buy these, best brands to get (if not already mentioned), and estimated price for the parts.
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