Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Alright, Im trying to pull my VG but I have a few questions.

First, Im pulling the trans and engine together. Everything is disconected execpt the axles... does anyone have any advice here? Ive never removed axles before. Where is the best place to put the sling, around the exhaust manifold? Thanks guys!

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

breaker bar or impact gun(and a lot of anger) will get the axle nuts off...and at least get a cheapo Helms manual, it covers the whole removal process well enough including mounting points for the sling!

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Helms? Im afraid Im not familiar with that manual. I have the chiltons and FSM, neither are very specific on engine removal. Where can I get a Helms manual?

subs1000w

i think hes refering to the haynes manual

if your pulling the engine and trans together id hook one end of the chain to the front tranny mount and the other end to the back exhaust manifold

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

damn, my bad I've been working on too many Hondas lately...Helms makes all the Honda shop manuals

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

when i take the axles off i take the hubs and axles off as a whole. i do that because for one i don't have a socket big enough to fit over the axle nut and two, it seems like its less of a hassle taking the whole hub off since you don't have to worry about a nut that is torqued extremely tight.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I assume you are going up and out vs the FSM down and out. I always go up and out because it's 10x easier to use a stable chain hoist vs balancing an engine on a stupid jack. I also usually remove the tranny first but some guys just remove it all at once. For the VE, it seems like a real tight fit for removal. VGs should be quite a bit easier.

Basicly, you have to find some balance point. Does the hoist you have have a tilt provision? If not, you might have to keep readjusting the chains to tilt the engine up and out.

The exhaust manifolds are plenty strong enough but don't know if that's convenient with the tranny on there. Since the Nissan V6 is designed to drop out, Nissan doesn't provide engine hoist brackets like the old L series datsuns had.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

I actually found it pretty easy to drop the engine using an engine hoist. Its easy if you can get the front end of the car high enough. If you can't, pulling the engine out of the top will be the only way to go.

When I dropped mine I wrapped the chain around the exhaust manifolds closer to the front of the engine and I also put a chain around the tranny mounts so I had three mount points which made it a lot more stable.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

That's a good idea. But for me, getting the car high enough was too difficult. I had to put the stands on some wood blocks. NOT good for me. I wanted to drop the engine into a dolley that I could move around but the height of the dolley + the height of the engine = the lower portion of the front end being at least 4ft+ off the ground.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that would bite. I wouldn't be gutsy enough to try dropping the engine using stands on wood blocks.

I actually barely got the engine out sliding it under the car because I didn't quite have it high enough but the next time I drop the engine I know how high I need to go. The only hard part is I have to lift the car in two steps. I put a floor jack under the engine crossmember to lift the whole front end up and once the floor jack peaks out I put jack stands under the sway bar retainer thingies and then lower the jack. After that I have to get a couple blocks of wood or a large flat stone that is sitting outside my garage. I slide that underneath and put the floor jack on that and then top the jack out again. Once I do that I just lift the jack stands into place and that gets the car high enough to drop the engine. I've done this a few times when doing tranny swaps. There is enough room for me to put the tranny on my chest and slide between the fender and driver's side strut assembly so I think there's enough room for the engine to slide through. I may try it sometime soon because I'm thinking I want the Maxima VG30E in there with the turbo setup. I'm not liking the [lack of] low end power due to the lower compression and I'm pretty sure the Maxima's engine can handle the boost. Guess I'll find out...

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Jeff - yes I'm going up and out and naturaly I have a "tilt provision", or "engine leveler".

Mt - I have an impact wrench, so if removing the nut is less work, then thats the way I will go.

Can anyone with a Haynes manual scan the section on engine removal for me? I am interested to see their approach on the situation.

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

if you have the Chiltons, than its most likely the same as the Haynes...looking at my Haynes right now, its "up and out". as for the FSM, I've never used it to remove the motor so maybe they employ the "down and out" instead

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

-take off the crank pulley...won't go w/o it...5spd maybe ok to leave it.
-you can leave the engine mounts on the engine connected or you can take them out.
-take off the tranny mounts and their brackets..it's a beeitch w/ it on the car.
-disconnect the AC compressor and tie it to the upper radiator support.
-take the alternator off
-it's a good idea not to use the exhaust manifolds...studs are quite weak.
-i hooked the front alternator mount and the rear engine mount bracket for lifting points.
-watch the AC lines...soft alum tend to bend/break easily.
-tilter is not 100% needed..but really helps to angle the motor out or else your frame is going to get some small scrapes on it.
-you can leave the hood on..just disconnect the hood lifts.