KYB strut install problem
KYB strut install problem
I bought the full set of KYB's for the 3rd gen and my mechanic says the ones in the back are too long. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Im pretty sure they sent the right ones. I cant reach anyone there though. Man.
www.cardomain.com/id/wink182 he had a problem installing his, he has pics, not sure if will help you or your mechanic out, you can PM him he'll probably tell you what was wrong
Originally Posted by DMad8724
www.cardomain.com/id/wink182 he had a problem installing his, he has pics, not sure if will help you or your mechanic out, you can PM him he'll probably tell you what was wrong
Hey, got your email but I'll just answer on here.
My local mechanic called me up and wanted me to buy monroes from him cause I 'had bought the wrong struts". BS. The bottom of the rear struts have a cylindrical piece sticking off the bottom of them...making it really hard to screw the top into place (IIRC). Anyway, after I convinced my mechanic it was the right one I let him grind that part down a bit and it fit right in.
So either you did buy the wrong ones, or you need to tell you mechanic to grind that round part down a bit so it will fit.
Hope that helps.
caleb
My local mechanic called me up and wanted me to buy monroes from him cause I 'had bought the wrong struts". BS. The bottom of the rear struts have a cylindrical piece sticking off the bottom of them...making it really hard to screw the top into place (IIRC). Anyway, after I convinced my mechanic it was the right one I let him grind that part down a bit and it fit right in.
So either you did buy the wrong ones, or you need to tell you mechanic to grind that round part down a bit so it will fit.
Hope that helps.
caleb
Yes it does. thank you very much.
Originally Posted by vwink182
Hey, got your email but I'll just answer on here.
My local mechanic called me up and wanted me to buy monroes from him cause I 'had bought the wrong struts". BS. The bottom of the rear struts have a cylindrical piece sticking off the bottom of them...making it really hard to screw the top into place (IIRC). Anyway, after I convinced my mechanic it was the right one I let him grind that part down a bit and it fit right in.
So either you did buy the wrong ones, or you need to tell you mechanic to grind that round part down a bit so it will fit.
Hope that helps.
caleb
My local mechanic called me up and wanted me to buy monroes from him cause I 'had bought the wrong struts". BS. The bottom of the rear struts have a cylindrical piece sticking off the bottom of them...making it really hard to screw the top into place (IIRC). Anyway, after I convinced my mechanic it was the right one I let him grind that part down a bit and it fit right in.
So either you did buy the wrong ones, or you need to tell you mechanic to grind that round part down a bit so it will fit.
Hope that helps.
caleb
Yeah I guess for us we have to cut the small end off the strut in order for it to fit. The ride is superb!! As I was leaving the shop this morning there just happened to be a beemer 98-99 on....... never mind.
The handling is superb. Thats what best describes the ride now. Im in heaven. The only thing is we need to make sure people with 3rd gens know that they will have to cut them for them to fit. But they will fit.
I didnt have to cut mine. Vwink I believe youre problem was that you didnt have the end cap that screws in that KYB sends you. I cant remember but was thinking that you got them used and the guy didnt send those parts.
swowlinc maybe that was your problem...maybe the mechanic didnt save the end cap that screws on.
Like I said I didnt have any problems getting mine one with the supplied end cap but there was no way to get the factory end cap on without cutting the bottom I guess.
Just my .02 about it.
I do know I didnt cut anything though.
swowlinc maybe that was your problem...maybe the mechanic didnt save the end cap that screws on.
Like I said I didnt have any problems getting mine one with the supplied end cap but there was no way to get the factory end cap on without cutting the bottom I guess.
Just my .02 about it.
I do know I didnt cut anything though.
Thanks for sharing this information guys!!!
I'm about to buy a full set of KYB GR-2s with all four of the dust boots for $242 (tax included & lifetime warranty) and I'm having someone else install them for me for $70 and I wanted to make sure that I have everything he's going to need to install them. You guys are the best... I need this suspension done ASAP!!!
peace2u
I'm about to buy a full set of KYB GR-2s with all four of the dust boots for $242 (tax included & lifetime warranty) and I'm having someone else install them for me for $70 and I wanted to make sure that I have everything he's going to need to install them. You guys are the best... I need this suspension done ASAP!!!
peace2u
I had the same issue with my kyb struts when i installed them last week, but i could get just over 3/4 of the thread on it, so i just tightened it and hoepd for the best.. seems fine! My struts came with replacement end caps, the stock ones didnt have a chance of fitting IIRC.
damn stupid mech. You probably frightened the silly goose after you showed him your rear drumstick. Haha, maybe it got too many nuts and bolts holding it together and they might be afraid of damaging it. Also, that whole dumstick (w.no wheel attached) weights around 50-60lbs once fully assembled. Not an easy job, hey if you've contacted Kyb and double checked/matched the serial number on the cartridge. Then forget about the mech, dude. Just do it yourself. Save your $$$. Here are my dirty secrets for ya. Use a scissor jack to support the strut assembly while you're removing and installing it. Secondly, DON'T use a blow torch on the strut assembly. More than likely your older one is probably made of gas, heating it will send you 25 ft up in the air screaming. Thirdly, you'll need two pipe wrenches (at least 2" openning) and a 2-5lb metal hammer to whack the SoB cartridge cap. It's such a pain in the nut sack. No don't use a vise for this task, trust me it'll damn the vise and damn the workbench too. Your dumstick is too big for that thing to handle. Finally, fourth is my fav trick of trade. You're gonna love this one to death, esp if you don't have an impact wrench. For $1 at a Dollar Tree store, get yourself a rubber hammer. Haha. I loved this tactic so much I wished someone had told me earlier it would've saved me sooo much time from braking heads off frozen bolts and rounded off nuts. When you're trying to removing the frozen nuts and bolts, attach a braker bar to it and tap it gently with a rubber hammer rock it back and forth. Spray a little wd40. Rock it back and forth one more time, spray again. Then whack it loose all the way out!!!! Don't use a solid hammer, use a rubber hammer so that it'll dampen the shock waves. Btw, anyone don't know this awesome secret please take some notes. It'll save you plenties of angers. It's the same technology that impact wrench utilized
does anyone know where to get a strut/spring package? not sprint I was the other type or springs then they offer i just can't think of the name right now. If so could you please inform me or even if it's not cheap just get all the parts seperate?
Originally Posted by dkris42
does anyone know where to get a strut/spring package? not sprint I was the other type or springs then they offer i just can't think of the name right now. If so could you please inform me or even if it's not cheap just get all the parts seperate?
the brands that come to mind right now are:
Eibach
Intrax
B&G
Suspension Tech
I can put together a package deal if you tell me what brands you want in the package.
Oh boy... No one needs to whack anything on the struts. The caps can be removed simply by a pipe wrench if you bolt the hub back to the wheel and let someone stand on it while applying force to the wrench. Like I did. I do not like hammering parts at all, maybe it is just me.
Does anybody know what the parts numbers are for the KYB GR-2 shocks/struts? The guy I plan to order them from mentioned that the rear ones are cartridges... I'm not exactly sure what that's supposed to mean, but I'm planning on ordering them today and I want to get them installed tomorrow. If anyone can answer this definitely for me, I'd really appreciate it.
peace2u
peace2u
Originally Posted by Pit5Bull
Does anybody know what the parts numbers are for the KYB GR-2 shocks/struts? The guy I plan to order them from mentioned that the rear ones are cartridges... I'm not exactly sure what that's supposed to mean, but I'm planning on ordering them today and I want to get them installed tomorrow. If anyone can answer this definitely for me, I'd really appreciate it.
peace2u
peace2u
Just got the KYB's/ST's installed in the front but...
...my friend that installed them had a major problem with the install of the rear ones. It appears that he couldn't get the end cap off the rear stock cartridges in order to replace them with the KYB GR-2's, so I still have the stock cartridges in the rear, but the ST springs all the way around. (He said that he'd never encountered anything quite like the rear, and wound up taking him longer than he anticipated). He was only going to charge me $70, but I gave him a few bucks more for taking my car on such short notice
I like how the Suspension Techniques springs feel and I'm very satisfied with the drop, although it looks like the rear is lower than the front because of the stock cartridges still being back there. I'm pretty sure that I have the right parts for the rear and I'm wondering whether or not to go have someone else install the rear or do the rear ones myself. My friend did the entire front in about 45 minutes and it looks very nice. Any help would obviously be appreciated since I'm not trying to stay stock in the rear for very long.
peace2u
...my friend that installed them had a major problem with the install of the rear ones. It appears that he couldn't get the end cap off the rear stock cartridges in order to replace them with the KYB GR-2's, so I still have the stock cartridges in the rear, but the ST springs all the way around. (He said that he'd never encountered anything quite like the rear, and wound up taking him longer than he anticipated). He was only going to charge me $70, but I gave him a few bucks more for taking my car on such short notice
I like how the Suspension Techniques springs feel and I'm very satisfied with the drop, although it looks like the rear is lower than the front because of the stock cartridges still being back there. I'm pretty sure that I have the right parts for the rear and I'm wondering whether or not to go have someone else install the rear or do the rear ones myself. My friend did the entire front in about 45 minutes and it looks very nice. Any help would obviously be appreciated since I'm not trying to stay stock in the rear for very long.
peace2u
[QUOTE=Pit5Bull]Just got the KYB's/ST's installed in the front but...
...my friend that installed them had a major problem with the install of the rear ones. It appears that he couldn't get the end cap off the rear stock cartridges in order to replace them with the KYB GR-2's, so I still have the stock cartridges in the rear,
I tried to tell you that the thing can be cut instead of putting back on the old ones. but you should have a bowl of water handy so you can dip the end of the strut in the water when it starts to smoke from the heat of sawing the thing as far down as you can go. It sucks that after all that work of taking off the rear they put the old ones back in. The shop that put on mine told me the same thing. They said they have no choice but to put the old ones back on, but hell no I wasnt having that.! {plus Im buddies with the shop owner} so we just cut 'em. Have not had a suspension problem since that day. CUT THEM. good luck
...my friend that installed them had a major problem with the install of the rear ones. It appears that he couldn't get the end cap off the rear stock cartridges in order to replace them with the KYB GR-2's, so I still have the stock cartridges in the rear,
I tried to tell you that the thing can be cut instead of putting back on the old ones. but you should have a bowl of water handy so you can dip the end of the strut in the water when it starts to smoke from the heat of sawing the thing as far down as you can go. It sucks that after all that work of taking off the rear they put the old ones back in. The shop that put on mine told me the same thing. They said they have no choice but to put the old ones back on, but hell no I wasnt having that.! {plus Im buddies with the shop owner} so we just cut 'em. Have not had a suspension problem since that day. CUT THEM. good luck
Originally Posted by swowlinc
I tried to tell you that the thing can be cut instead of putting back on the old ones. but you should have a bowl of water handy so you can dip the end of the strut in the water when it starts to smoke from the heat of sawing the thing as far down as you can go. It sucks that after all that work of taking off the rear they put the old ones back in. The shop that put on mine told me the same thing. They said they have no choice but to put the old ones back on, but hell no I wasnt having that.! {plus Im buddies with the shop owner} so we just cut 'em. Have not had a suspension problem since that day. CUT THEM. good luck
Originally Posted by bvtran
???? Are you talking about cutting off the cap? If yes, then I don't think so buddy. Doing that and you'll be driving around with a lot of noises. Or even worst, one of your rear corner might collapse unexpectedly. Because now that you got nothing to hold down the cartridge, the spring is free to move where ever it feels like, esp, over bumby roads/ speed bumps/ uneven terrain/ etc... As I've mentioned before, you'll need two large a$$ pipe wrenches. The bigger the better! And a heavy metal hammer, dumbbell, or anything heavy to whack the cap off. You might wanna soak it with wd40 overnight, recommend that you put some plastic wraps over it to seal in the liquid. Then wake up the next day and have fun beating it silly.
Originally Posted by Hornswoggler
Wow, if KYB's are such a pain to install in the rear, what is the next best option???
@swowlinc...
Thanks for all your input, bro! I had to go back and read this again to try to figure out what my friend's issue with the rear cartridges was. I'll have to ask him again to clarify it, but I think what you're saying is true. I wasn't with him during the installation, so I'll have to find out exactly what he was talking about. I was under the impression that he couldn't get the stock cartridge out of the sleeve that the cartridge sits in that has the lower spring seat attached to it. He left one of the cartridges still packaged while it looks like he used the other just to measure it vs. the stock one (I'm guessing here). Now that I look at the KYB cartridge, I see this extra end piece sticking out of the bottom that you're talking about - just like the picture in the link that DMad8742 was talking about. I see where an installer would make an issue out of that end piece sticking out...
Is there a way to tell if it can be screwed off or not? If it can be screwed off, I'd like to try to do that and try installing the rears myself. I'll just have to give it a try and let you guys know what transpires...
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST, MAAN!
peace2u
Thanks for all your input, bro! I had to go back and read this again to try to figure out what my friend's issue with the rear cartridges was. I'll have to ask him again to clarify it, but I think what you're saying is true. I wasn't with him during the installation, so I'll have to find out exactly what he was talking about. I was under the impression that he couldn't get the stock cartridge out of the sleeve that the cartridge sits in that has the lower spring seat attached to it. He left one of the cartridges still packaged while it looks like he used the other just to measure it vs. the stock one (I'm guessing here). Now that I look at the KYB cartridge, I see this extra end piece sticking out of the bottom that you're talking about - just like the picture in the link that DMad8742 was talking about. I see where an installer would make an issue out of that end piece sticking out...

Is there a way to tell if it can be screwed off or not? If it can be screwed off, I'd like to try to do that and try installing the rears myself. I'll just have to give it a try and let you guys know what transpires...
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST, MAAN!
peace2u
my koni rears were easy as hell to install. they fit perfectly. it was the fronts that were the pita. you HAVE to cut the the top cap off. there is no way around it. you also have to drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the strut housing.
i spent 10 hours intalling my koni's.
i spent 10 hours intalling my koni's.
Is there a way to tell if it can be screwed off or not? If it can be screwed off, I'd like to try to do that and try installing the rears myself...
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST, MAAN!
peace2u[/QUOTE]
REYGARCIA??
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST, MAAN!
peace2u[/QUOTE]
REYGARCIA??
uhh, i don't know why it's unclear as it's been stated before on the first page. the rears are cartridges meaning that you use your old rear struts and insert the new cartridges. to do this, you need to use a large pipe wrench with a large enough jaw to go around the gland packing nut (looks like a hexagon or octagon). you can attach the rear spindle to a wheel and have a friend stand on it while you use the big wrench to undo that nut. as you loosen it which takes a lot of force, use a cup or bowl to catch the strut oil which is contained inside the strut. you will need this oil to put back in the strut when you insert the new cartridge. also there is a seal which you will need to keep. before inserting the new cartridge, put some of the oil (but not too much) back into the old strut housing. replace seal and insert the new cartridge. tighten the gland packing nut. my kyb's had a couple of threads showing even though it was all the way tightened. the rest should be simple. there should be NO cutting involved with the kyb's.
Originally Posted by ghostmax
uhh, i don't know why it's unclear as it's been stated before on the first page. the rears are cartridges meaning that you use your old rear struts and insert the new cartridges. to do this, you need to use a large pipe wrench with a large enough jaw to go around the gland packing nut (looks like a hexagon or octagon). you can attach the rear spindle to a wheel and have a friend stand on it while you use the big wrench to undo that nut. as you loosen it which takes a lot of force, use a cup or bowl to catch the strut oil which is contained inside the strut. you will need this oil to put back in the strut when you insert the new cartridge. also there is a seal which you will need to keep. before inserting the new cartridge, put some of the oil (but not too much) back into the old strut housing. replace seal and insert the new cartridge. tighten the gland packing nut. my kyb's had a couple of threads showing even though it was all the way tightened. the rest should be simple. there should be NO cutting involved with the kyb's.
YOU ONLY HAVE TO CUT THE STRUT CARTRIDGE IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE NUT THAT CAME WITH THE KYB STRUT INSERTS.
Sorry...I put it in all caps so maybe the people that are confused and think its too much trouble to get KYBs will see that there really isnt a problem if you keep the nut from the packaging and read the directions.
Sorry...I put it in all caps so maybe the people that are confused and think its too much trouble to get KYBs will see that there really isnt a problem if you keep the nut from the packaging and read the directions.
ghee, I don't understand why people don't understand the potential danger of cutting off the cartridge holding cap (gland). It's sooo obvious that you'll need the cap to hold the spring onto the strut housing at all time. Otherwise, the darn spring is gonna pops right off the housing over a high speed bump?!?!
Please DO NOT cut the stupid cap off. I have gr2 in the back right now and I had removed it a several times. I'd even brought a spindle from the junkyard too, it took me over a day to remove the cap off due to heavy rusts. And also, because I had penetrated it with wd40 overnight but recommended that you use true penetrant. Wd40 is total garbage, I got too may cans and I had to use them cuz I'd paid for it damme. Anyway, the one from the junkyard took me over an hour to beat it off with 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy 5lbs hammer.
However, if you guys still don't get the point of using 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy hammer. Then fine. Try this alternative, yet still considered as an equally safety approach. Run to the store and get a 58mm 6 point socket. Yes, that is the right size for the cap. Then cut off the cartridge stick (NO not the cartridge itself or there's gonna be explosive gases flying everywhere). Then take the cap off with a powerful impact wrench or whatever that you got, braker bar, plumming pipes, an oversize dude from the neighborhood, etc........
Please very becareful when you're messing around with the safety of vehicle. And please provide honest and accurate answer for other members too. I don't wanna see anybody with a maxima get into a car accident. Alrighty? Peace.
Please DO NOT cut the stupid cap off. I have gr2 in the back right now and I had removed it a several times. I'd even brought a spindle from the junkyard too, it took me over a day to remove the cap off due to heavy rusts. And also, because I had penetrated it with wd40 overnight but recommended that you use true penetrant. Wd40 is total garbage, I got too may cans and I had to use them cuz I'd paid for it damme. Anyway, the one from the junkyard took me over an hour to beat it off with 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy 5lbs hammer.
However, if you guys still don't get the point of using 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy hammer. Then fine. Try this alternative, yet still considered as an equally safety approach. Run to the store and get a 58mm 6 point socket. Yes, that is the right size for the cap. Then cut off the cartridge stick (NO not the cartridge itself or there's gonna be explosive gases flying everywhere). Then take the cap off with a powerful impact wrench or whatever that you got, braker bar, plumming pipes, an oversize dude from the neighborhood, etc........
Please very becareful when you're messing around with the safety of vehicle. And please provide honest and accurate answer for other members too. I don't wanna see anybody with a maxima get into a car accident. Alrighty? Peace.
Originally Posted by bvtran
ghee, I don't understand why people don't understand the potential danger of cutting off the cartridge holding cap (gland). It's sooo obvious that you'll need the cap to hold the spring onto the strut housing at all time. Otherwise, the darn spring is gonna pops right off the housing!!!! over a high speed bump?!?!
Please DO NOT cut the stupid cap off. I have gr2 in the back right now and I had removed it a several times. I'd even brought a spindle from the junkyard too, it took me over a day to remove the cap off due to heavy rusts. And also, because I had penetrated it with wd40 overnight but recommended that you use true penetrant. Wd40 is total garbage, I got too may cans and I had to use them cuz I'd paid it for damme. Anyway, the one from the junkyard took me over an hour to beat it off with 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy 5lbs hammer.
However, if you guys still don't get the point of using 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy hammer. Then fine. Try this alternative, yet still considered as an equally safety approach. Run to the store and get a 58mm 6 point socket. Yes, that is the right size for the cap. Then cut off the cartridge stick (NO not the cartridge itself or there's gonna be explosive gases flying everywhere). Then grind the cap off with a powerful impact wrench or whatever that you got, braker bar, plumming pipes, an oversize dude from the neighborhood, etc........
Please very becareful when you're messing around with the safety of vehicle. And please provide honest and accurate answer for other members too. I don't wanna see anybody with a maxima get into a car accident. Alrighty? Peace.
Please DO NOT cut the stupid cap off. I have gr2 in the back right now and I had removed it a several times. I'd even brought a spindle from the junkyard too, it took me over a day to remove the cap off due to heavy rusts. And also, because I had penetrated it with wd40 overnight but recommended that you use true penetrant. Wd40 is total garbage, I got too may cans and I had to use them cuz I'd paid it for damme. Anyway, the one from the junkyard took me over an hour to beat it off with 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy 5lbs hammer.
However, if you guys still don't get the point of using 2 large pipe wrenches and a heavy hammer. Then fine. Try this alternative, yet still considered as an equally safety approach. Run to the store and get a 58mm 6 point socket. Yes, that is the right size for the cap. Then cut off the cartridge stick (NO not the cartridge itself or there's gonna be explosive gases flying everywhere). Then grind the cap off with a powerful impact wrench or whatever that you got, braker bar, plumming pipes, an oversize dude from the neighborhood, etc........
Please very becareful when you're messing around with the safety of vehicle. And please provide honest and accurate answer for other members too. I don't wanna see anybody with a maxima get into a car accident. Alrighty? Peace.
LOL man you need to re-read the posts...no one is talking about cutting the gland nut off.
What they are talking about is cutting a little off of the bottom of the strut insert itself. There may be some confusion going on in this thread (since I didnt read the whole thing) but I know that swolinc and vwink182 is talking about cutting a small part off of the insert itself (at the bottom of it there is an extended lip they cut off).
Obviously yes if you cut the nut off you would have problems but I really dont think anyone is talking about doing this. No I am not going to read all of this thread to verify that though. I am just going by what vwink and swolinc are talking about which I assume you are talking about.
??? Cut what off? When I installed mine, NOT once NOT twice but several times. From Stock, monroe (maybe, can't remembered), stock, etc. to gr2. I didn't cutted a darn thing off, NOT a single thing off using the pipe wrenches method. There shouldn't be any cutting job needed for this project. I have to repeat one more time, there should be NONE!





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