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what the... crazy maxima rear calipers

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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
Paul89SE's Avatar
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what the... crazy maxima rear calipers

Has anyone changed rear pads on their SE? I thought it would be just like the front. I tried compressing the caliper with a "C" clamp like on any other car and it wouldn't budge. I checked the obvious parking brake and it wasn't on. Then i looked in the manual and it says you have to twist the piston clockwise with needle nose pliers. It was very slow going until i realized some lube on the rusted piston was neccesary. Now they work like new after the rust flaked off.
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 06:41 AM
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Right on pal! I did not know that 3 years ago and that was how MIDAS put me together for replacing the rear calipers. What a waste of money, I tell ya!
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 07:16 AM
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pretty normal for a caliper that has an internal parking brake....
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 07:31 AM
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«§»Craig B«§»'s Avatar
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like Matt said, it's pretty common to have the rear caliper like that on imports

hopefully you didn't mess up the threads too badly when you tried to compress it - sounds like it's fine though if you were able to retract it after that
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 10:19 AM
  #5  
ChucKfORRESt27's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Paul89SE
Has anyone changed rear pads on their SE? I thought it would be just like the front. I tried compressing the caliper with a "C" clamp like on any other car and it wouldn't budge. I checked the obvious parking brake and it wasn't on. Then i looked in the manual and it says you have to twist the piston clockwise with needle nose pliers. It was very slow going until i realized some lube on the rusted piston was neccesary. Now they work like new after the rust flaked off.
I did the same thing a few weeks ago I got a tool for 2 bucks from Schucks auto parts that fits on a ratchet and lets you twist the piston back in it made it alot easier
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 01:40 PM
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Umm this might be kinda stupid but do you need to open the bleeder valve to release some pressure when you turn the piston in????

Glad I saw this thread... I didn't know about that and I'll be doin my rears this weekend.... Love this site!!!
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 02:21 PM
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depending on the setup you got: disc vs drum. I could only answer in regards to disc setup, the later you'll have to consult other experts here. With the rear disc, you don't have to compress it with a c clamp. All you have to do is remove the 4 bolts (2 upper and 2 lower), then pry out the caliper with a large screw driver or small crow bar. Don't worry about about the pads or the lower seat, yet. Once the caliper is off, then you could just remove the pads and its seat with your bare hand. That's it. It's really that easy.
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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yea, if it wont compress then you have to twist it. most pistons that have to be turned to compress have a dot on them
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 08:06 PM
  #9  
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the rear calipers on most imports has something called an actuator..they turn instead of pushing in.ull need an actuator tool for it.dont buy the box looking thing its a waste of money,get the clamp looking thing w/ the 2 nubs...be sure to pump the brakes before starting the car once ur done/ check the brake fluid level
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:59 PM
  #10  
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The reason you have to turn the caliper piston to retract it is because of the integral park brake.
That's the self-adjusting mechanism keeping the pads close to the disc - just like the adjusters do on a regular drum setup. It saves you having to continuously adjust the park brake cable as the pads wear down. Of course, this type of adjuster is much better than the drum brake adjusters!
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