Good Pricing for swap?
#1
Good Pricing for swap?
hEy all....
Yup, i ordered my ve. about 40,000 on it. should be coming in th enext week or two, im really busy right now and have no time to swap out my motor. HOw much would it cost to get a mechanic to swap the ve in for me? thanx....
Yup, i ordered my ve. about 40,000 on it. should be coming in th enext week or two, im really busy right now and have no time to swap out my motor. HOw much would it cost to get a mechanic to swap the ve in for me? thanx....
#4
If he 1/2 ***** it, about $800. Does it right, $800 in labor and $300-ish in parts depending on what you need. Take a chance with the old KS and the swap gets alot easier and cuts $100 of the parts. I KNOW you read the stickies on the subject
#7
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Grrrrr! I had to take the upper and lower manifolds off!
#8
BTW I'm changing all my phone numbers the min you drive away.
Actually, I'm jealous. That is ONE clean engine. Pulls very good too. I don't know how your other engine performed but this one SHOULD be a 15.0 flat 1/4er or better the way it sits now.
Actually, I'm jealous. That is ONE clean engine. Pulls very good too. I don't know how your other engine performed but this one SHOULD be a 15.0 flat 1/4er or better the way it sits now.
#11
Originally Posted by MrGone
first to ask why you purchased the motor before researching this.
#12
Originally Posted by Tin
my guy seems to have done a great job, since i havent had any problems with the engine yet ever since....but i got it all done for 950...included was the engine, labor, coolant, oil change, a few gasket changes....
=)
=)
That seems super low for a total on a JDM swap. Around here, the engine itself costs $700-$1200. You got a good deal regardless, since the labor usually runs around $800 or more, too.
#13
na it was from a junkyard....whats JDM anyway?? ive heard it everywhere, but dont kno exactly wat it is.
the cool part was, he wasnt really giving me a deal! he just took off about $100 through a connection, but thats what he normally charges!
the cool part was, he wasnt really giving me a deal! he just took off about $100 through a connection, but thats what he normally charges!
#15
Japanese Domestic Market
engines that come from Japanese cars.
Your engine, although it runs good now, probably has in the neighborhood of 100k miles on it. Most places that sell JDM engines say that they have under 40k miles on it, but they do tend to cost more than junkyard engines. IIRC, James92SE scored a junkyard VE for $250. I can't remember the details, but it probably would have worked (depending on the engine, but I think he said it was complete).
engines that come from Japanese cars.
Your engine, although it runs good now, probably has in the neighborhood of 100k miles on it. Most places that sell JDM engines say that they have under 40k miles on it, but they do tend to cost more than junkyard engines. IIRC, James92SE scored a junkyard VE for $250. I can't remember the details, but it probably would have worked (depending on the engine, but I think he said it was complete).
#16
the guy told me it had about 80-90k on it...but yea, so if you wanna replace ur engine, and u get a jdm one, is it guaranteed to like be really good? (i dunno wat to call it, but for example if u get one from a junky u dunno how good it really is...)
#17
JDM engines themselves have a warranty. But you have to buy a seperate warranty to cover labor. Even if you do, it only covers about $600 worth. Barely covers labor at cost. But you have a better chance at getting a low miler from Japan vs a 3-gen motor in the USA. Unless of course you find a gem.
The trick is to inspect the engine BEFORE you put it in there. You can only do so much w/o taking the valve covers off, oil pan off etc..... So you inspect it the best you can, take a chance and install it. Then hope it runs well. Because after you install it, you have done all the work. If it's a crap engine, you get to de-install it and do it all over again. If you do the work yourself, most places won't re-imburse you the labor charges. And if you have a shop do it, they may/may not do the labor again for free.
The trick is to inspect the engine BEFORE you put it in there. You can only do so much w/o taking the valve covers off, oil pan off etc..... So you inspect it the best you can, take a chance and install it. Then hope it runs well. Because after you install it, you have done all the work. If it's a crap engine, you get to de-install it and do it all over again. If you do the work yourself, most places won't re-imburse you the labor charges. And if you have a shop do it, they may/may not do the labor again for free.
#18
In general the engines have a warranty on them to at least run and meet compression specs, but they don't guarantee much more than that. See the "!@#)^%( up JDM Engine" my Jeff on some of the issues he ran into with it and what happened overall. long thread, but a LOT of useful information in it.
#20
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
In general the engines have a warranty on them to at least run and meet compression specs, but they don't guarantee much more than that. See the "!@#)^%( up JDM Engine" my Jeff on some of the issues he ran into with it and what happened overall. long thread, but a LOT of useful information in it.
My JDM (the one Jeff installed and has pics of in that thread) has a 1-year unlimited mile warranty, although with all of the work he put into it, I hope nothing happens for years and years...
#23
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
JDM engines themselves have a warranty. But you have to buy a seperate warranty to cover labor. Even if you do, it only covers about $600 worth. Barely covers labor at cost. But you have a better chance at getting a low miler from Japan vs a 3-gen motor in the USA. Unless of course you find a gem.
The trick is to inspect the engine BEFORE you put it in there. You can only do so much w/o taking the valve covers off, oil pan off etc..... So you inspect it the best you can, take a chance and install it. Then hope it runs well. Because after you install it, you have done all the work. If it's a crap engine, you get to de-install it and do it all over again. If you do the work yourself, most places won't re-imburse you the labor charges. And if you have a shop do it, they may/may not do the labor again for free.
The trick is to inspect the engine BEFORE you put it in there. You can only do so much w/o taking the valve covers off, oil pan off etc..... So you inspect it the best you can, take a chance and install it. Then hope it runs well. Because after you install it, you have done all the work. If it's a crap engine, you get to de-install it and do it all over again. If you do the work yourself, most places won't re-imburse you the labor charges. And if you have a shop do it, they may/may not do the labor again for free.
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