my rear seal done gone bad
#1
my rear seal done gone bad
I have a major leak in the rear seal, i have to add a quart of oil about every 2-3 weeks. How much is it to get the rear seal replaced/fixed, or how much of a pain in the *** would it be to do it myself? I've heard figures like $1000 to get it fixed....is that about right?
#3
Rear main seal costs about $60 and I even have one laying around somewhere.
Tranny has to come out and the oil pan has to be dropped. Many $$$ in labor at a shop. If you can do it yourself it'll cost about $100 and the better part of a weekend if you work at a good pace.
Tranny has to come out and the oil pan has to be dropped. Many $$$ in labor at a shop. If you can do it yourself it'll cost about $100 and the better part of a weekend if you work at a good pace.
#4
you can get the rear seal for about $17 or so IIRC, but then you have to try and get the old one out and the new one in. I think Keelans is the whole metal bracket and all that crap, much much much easier to do, probably worth the extra money lol.
It *MIGHT* just be the oil pan, in that case its alot easier. You might want to save up for a Fidanza though
It *MIGHT* just be the oil pan, in that case its alot easier. You might want to save up for a Fidanza though
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#5
ok....so Keelan's sounds good, a weekend....i might be able to get my uncle to let me use his lift and what-not. I have no tools. And ah...Mr. Gone, I have an auto....should i still get a fidanza?
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#12
stay away from that restore crap. it does more damage than good.
yes, you have to pull the tranny off to get to it. you do not have to pull the oil pan.
you don't have to replace that lip seal either.
there's a paper gasket behind the seal retainer bracket. it costs about $1.50 or so. buy a new one when you buy the new rear seal.. rear seal should cost $10-15.. also buy a tube of RTV silicone that's suitable for contact with oil (the black or orange stuff is what I usually use).
when you put the thing back in, clean the oil pan lip and surrounding area very well with brake cleaner or other grease-cutting solvent. when it's dry, put a thin layer of RTV over the entire rubber lip seal and on the oil pan and the aluminum bracket. when that's all done, replace the paper gasket on the block and install the seal w/ retainer.
you shouldn't have any leaks there again for another 100k+ miles..
it sounds like a PITA, but it's really not bad. the hard part is pulling the tranny. the seal takes about 15 min from start to finish.
yes, you have to pull the tranny off to get to it. you do not have to pull the oil pan.
you don't have to replace that lip seal either.
there's a paper gasket behind the seal retainer bracket. it costs about $1.50 or so. buy a new one when you buy the new rear seal.. rear seal should cost $10-15.. also buy a tube of RTV silicone that's suitable for contact with oil (the black or orange stuff is what I usually use).
when you put the thing back in, clean the oil pan lip and surrounding area very well with brake cleaner or other grease-cutting solvent. when it's dry, put a thin layer of RTV over the entire rubber lip seal and on the oil pan and the aluminum bracket. when that's all done, replace the paper gasket on the block and install the seal w/ retainer.
you shouldn't have any leaks there again for another 100k+ miles..
it sounds like a PITA, but it's really not bad. the hard part is pulling the tranny. the seal takes about 15 min from start to finish.
#14
it softens the rubber seals all throughout the engine.. then shortly thereafter, they dry back out again and the problem is worse. the bad part is that they do that to ALL the seals, not just the one that's leaking. you're sticking a band-aid over a crack in the Hoover dam. just fix it.
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