... and the red neck special intake piping

Big pictures so it may take some time with 56k.

http://www.mtcmotorsports.com/hood holder thingy 1.jpg

http://www.mtcmotorsports.com/hood holder thingy 2.jpg

http://www.mtcmotorsports.com/coolant filler tee 1.jpg

http://www.mtcmotorsports.com/coolant filler tee 2.jpg

and uh... yeah... this is the intake i keep having trouble with. i wonder why it gives me so much trouble...

http://www.mtcmotorsports.com/red neck special.jpg

don't give me too much hassle, i had a crappy welder at the time and i can't get any silicone couplers out here.... i have to way a week to get them in and i'm still waiting on one to come in that'll fit.

 

haha. Dude. I have one of the cheapest mig welders you can buy and I'm a noobie. I can still put down better ones than that. it's just practice though. Get one that uses gas, the welds look 10x better. What's with the string?

You can use 3" radiator hose or hop onto ebay for couplers. Or roadrace engineering etc.. Nice people

 

:barf:

Ummm dude.. next time, keep those kinda pics to yourself. I'd be ashamed to show pics like that of my car.

 

as far as the intake pipe goes all i can say is WWWWWOOOOOWWWWW

on a good note i think you may be on to somthing with that coolant filler tee by the heater core. i just may do that also

did you remove the valve that goes on the fire wall right where your coolant filler is and if so why did you do that

 

so why even put the coolant T in there? I have one, but it's only cause my heater core blew up last week and I've bypassed it. I see no need for it though. you have a bleeder screw on your intake manifold.

 

it seems that that is the highest point in the cooling system so it would make it easier to bleed and fill the system without having to jack the car uyp 3feet in the air

 

yeah, i had a mig welder but with no gas so i had to use flux cored wire.... i hate that stuff. then, i also got to weld with the school's stuff but they only had co2 gas so that sucked. i'll hopefully be getting a bottle soon to fill with the proper argon/co2 mix.

the string on the intake is to keep it from popping off. the "ss clamps" can't hold that crap on at all. both pipes are beaded but it still pops off under boost so i just said screw it and tied it down. i'll be getting a nice silicone coupler with stainless steel t-clamps very soon. those will definitely fix my problem.

the coolant tee thingy is so that i don't have to jack the car way up. i can just poor some into it to properly fill up the heater core. i got real sick of filling the car with fresh coolant and not have any heat afterwards. now i have no problems. the little tee came off of the 280Z that i have.

i took the little valve off because it didn't act like it was working right.... i really saw no point in having it though. i took it off and have perfect heat, a/c, regular outside air, and inside air. it all works fine so...

you guys should make one of those hood things. its awesome having tons of room to work now instead of having to try fitting under the hood when working at the back of the engine.

 

I like the bracket

 

the hood thing i just threw together in a little bit. used a steel bar and bent the top after heating it with a propane torch. the little ball came off of the stock hood strut. i just cut it off and used some silver solder to hold them both together. so far, i've had no trouble with it at all. i just need to paint them so they don't rust.

 

u think the string will hold it?

 

you can pick up those coolant Ts at autozone for about $0.99 and they look a lot better than that one.


then again, I've never had a problem not having heat in my car.. and I've never had to jack the car up in the air either. just fill the radiator, leave the cap off, start the car, and keep adding until it starts coming out the top of the intake manifold. easy stuff.

 

I've never really had problems with the hood and working on the back side of the engine. The hood on my prelude is a pain though because it's opens backwards (FAST AND FURIOUS STYLE!!) so it makes it hard to work on anything that's not on the side of the engine.

How often are you changing your coolant that you need an extra fill tube for it?

That whole setup looks pretty rough for now, but if it works for you, then go for it

 

my whole car is rough right now i don't really mind though as i only care for the speed and i don't go to shows too often. also, being a bit rough makes it even more of a sleeper...

its not that i change my coolant often but just that when i do i dislike having to deal with the heater core stuff. i did have to do a lot of flushing when i first got the engine swapped in as the coolant passages were pretty dirty and there's still a little bit of crap in there that is taking a while to come off but overall i've not had much trouble since i try doing it right the first time. this just makes it a lot easier since i don't have to jack the car up.

 

very well. that particular string is supposed to be able to handle around 300-400 lbs.

i've tried that a few times but this is definitely much quicker. also, you have a newer max which is supposed to have the better heater core design.

once i get the intercooler i'll be using some nice 2.5 inch mandrel bent piping that will have some nice welds and nice silicone couplers. until then i have to deal with the red neck special intake pipe (got it done at an exhaust shop)

i'll have some pics of the nice new setup onces it's done.

 

You sure you haven't lived in tennessee!! love the intake , pure redneck!

 

well... lived in southern indiana and now live in southern kansas... so... i'm sure some of the southerness has rubbed off on me from both areas.

at the least, it all works. i'm sure i'm losing a bit of power over having mandrel bent stuff but it works. the only thing i can't decide to do is whether to make a whole new intake manifold or make a different tb setup. either way i need to change some stuff around to try keeping my intake piping from running close to the exhaust manifolds and also trying to stay away from extreme bends in the pipe. i might do some sort of setup with the Q45 3 inch tb or i may just do a totally new intake manifold as i can't stand the two small butterflies in the tb.

 

Z31 manifold not fit?

 

that'll cause the piping to either go right over the top of the manifold or will be forced to make tons of bends to deter that.

since the turbo is on the driver's side i really need the tb to be closer to the passenger's side so that i can keep from doing many bends and keep it as far away from the manifold as i can.

basically, if that 3 inch aluminum piece was pointing to the passenger's side instead of the driver's side it would work the way i want it to.

 

pwned

now I'm worried, I hope my heatercore likes me

Mark, your MAF isnt connected and our cars only come with 1 O2 sensor, even though I know its wideband I thought I would point it out anyway

 

i have 3 o2 sensors in there... one just acting as a plug because of some miscommunication (its bad though so no worries). the smaller one is the correct one that is going to the ecu, the wide band is lower on the downpipe as they recommend to keep it pretty far away from the turbo/manifolds.

the maf that is connected was a previous setup that i had. it seemed to work pretty well.... until my turbo blew and coated it with oil. i then had to get my other maf and put it on the draw through side of the turbo.

 

just incase anyone was curious this is the intercooler i bought



should fit right in the bumper after some cutting. all i have to do is figure out how to keep some metal in the bumper to have some strength in there.

 

That right there is stating the obvious

 

well, basically i meant that it is the perfect size for where i want to cut. it will fit right between the turn signals and driving lights and not be too long and not fit period or too short and look bad.

 

not bad... how much? where?

 

$360 + $20 shipping on ebay. supposedly a 3 month old sparco bar and plate unit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7924363165