Vibrations
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 212
Vibrations
Hey guys,
I have a problem. I've been re-building my '92 Maxima GXE. It has torn CV boots on either side.
I've pulled the axel from the driver's side. I know I should have used a pry bar, but could fit one inside, and just "pulled" the axel out. No damage to the circlips.
I clamped it on vise and knocked the outer joint off, and replaced it with new outer joint and new boots.
I used Matt's walkthrough on CV replacement. He recommended that the axel seals be replaced. I got them from courtesy nissan, and the problem is,
I've pulled the old ones out (with ALOT of effort and a channel lock pliers, is there an easy way?), but I couldn't figure out how to drive in the new seal. Should I have used a special "seal driver"? I do not own any sockets that are big enought to act as a seal driver, and so I ended up putting the new seal on the innder CV joint, and then just driving the joint into the transmission. After first few failed attempts, I did mallet it in but I am not sure if it is properly seated. Also, I'm wondering if I ended up compromising anything?
As for the passenger side, I couldn't remove the axel off the car. I tried to "pull" it off like the driver's side, and no joy no matter how much I yanked at it. I've tried to use a very large flathead screwdriver to pry it, but I can't seem to get leverage...
Anyway, I'd really appreciate any helps.
For what it's worth, the CV joint (after the new boot and the new outer joint) looks great, but I'd really like to know if what I did on the axel seal was totally dumb, and/or informations on how I'd go about removing the passenger side axel...
Thanks for any helps,
I have a problem. I've been re-building my '92 Maxima GXE. It has torn CV boots on either side.
I've pulled the axel from the driver's side. I know I should have used a pry bar, but could fit one inside, and just "pulled" the axel out. No damage to the circlips.
I clamped it on vise and knocked the outer joint off, and replaced it with new outer joint and new boots.
I used Matt's walkthrough on CV replacement. He recommended that the axel seals be replaced. I got them from courtesy nissan, and the problem is,
I've pulled the old ones out (with ALOT of effort and a channel lock pliers, is there an easy way?), but I couldn't figure out how to drive in the new seal. Should I have used a special "seal driver"? I do not own any sockets that are big enought to act as a seal driver, and so I ended up putting the new seal on the innder CV joint, and then just driving the joint into the transmission. After first few failed attempts, I did mallet it in but I am not sure if it is properly seated. Also, I'm wondering if I ended up compromising anything?
As for the passenger side, I couldn't remove the axel off the car. I tried to "pull" it off like the driver's side, and no joy no matter how much I yanked at it. I've tried to use a very large flathead screwdriver to pry it, but I can't seem to get leverage...
Anyway, I'd really appreciate any helps.
For what it's worth, the CV joint (after the new boot and the new outer joint) looks great, but I'd really like to know if what I did on the axel seal was totally dumb, and/or informations on how I'd go about removing the passenger side axel...
Thanks for any helps,
sorry about the problems you are having. on the passenger side, did you remove the 3 small bolts that the axle is mounted to?
For inserting the seals, I'd suggest you try putting the new seal in position, then put the old seal on top and then try tapping it on.
Hope that helps.
For inserting the seals, I'd suggest you try putting the new seal in position, then put the old seal on top and then try tapping it on.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 212
3 bolts!?!?!?
Chilton's, Haynes, and none of the online tutorials ever talk about 3 bolts...
As for the driver side seal, The seal has a "lip" that I am afraid of squishing if I try driving with the old one (which was torn beyond recognition anyway when I pulled it out with Channel lock pliers).
Anyway, I'll look for the 3 bolts.
Chilton's, Haynes, and none of the online tutorials ever talk about 3 bolts...
As for the driver side seal, The seal has a "lip" that I am afraid of squishing if I try driving with the old one (which was torn beyond recognition anyway when I pulled it out with Channel lock pliers).
Anyway, I'll look for the 3 bolts.
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