help!!! car vibrates at idle !!!
04-10-2001, 08:30 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 191
hi guys
need some help. i have a 94 GXE and my problem is when my car is idiling it will vibrate, not real bad , but noticable and you can feel it through the steering wheel. i just changed plugs about 2 or 3 months ago, but will check them. i bought split fires which i think suck (should have listened to you guys) but am thinking about replacing them for bosch plat +4 plugs also i have a softball size hoole in my muffler casing from hitting a chunk of ice could one of these be the cause??? does any one elses do this? thanks for everyones help.
need some help. i have a 94 GXE and my problem is when my car is idiling it will vibrate, not real bad , but noticable and you can feel it through the steering wheel. i just changed plugs about 2 or 3 months ago, but will check them. i bought split fires which i think suck (should have listened to you guys) but am thinking about replacing them for bosch plat +4 plugs also i have a softball size hoole in my muffler casing from hitting a chunk of ice could one of these be the cause??? does any one elses do this? thanks for everyones help.
04-10-2001, 08:42 PM
#2
Just put the OEm type plug in it.. you won't see any performance increase from spending $10/plug on your car. just the regular NGK jobs work very well.
the muffler hole shouldn't be causing the problem, but it's possible.
is it a constant vibration, like a 4 cylinder, or is it just a little "bump" here and there and you can see the tach move?
if it's a constant vibration at idle, it's most likely worn engine mounts.
if it's an on-and-off "bump" here and there, it could possibly be plug wires, but I'm not sure.. this is VERY common in our engines and noone has really found a way to fix it.
the muffler hole shouldn't be causing the problem, but it's possible.
is it a constant vibration, like a 4 cylinder, or is it just a little "bump" here and there and you can see the tach move?
if it's a constant vibration at idle, it's most likely worn engine mounts.
if it's an on-and-off "bump" here and there, it could possibly be plug wires, but I'm not sure.. this is VERY common in our engines and noone has really found a way to fix it.
04-10-2001, 08:56 PM
#3
Matt?
I have been attributing that "little bump" to a coil going bad. I've got a volt meter and will check it with the specifications in Chilton. I have also had one instance of a no start, meaning engine turning over but not firing, I tapped the coil, it fired. I'm planning to hook up my Jacob's directly to the coil wire, bypassing the coil because of the problem. The "bump" is normal and not coil related? Thanks.
04-10-2001, 09:11 PM
#4
it's not normal by any means, but it's common in our engines..
I wouldn't think it's the coil itself, but it very possibly could be. I haven't had time to research the problem myself, and it never really was that bad in my car, so I never worried about it much.
I wouldn't think it's the coil itself, but it very possibly could be. I haven't had time to research the problem myself, and it never really was that bad in my car, so I never worried about it much.
04-10-2001, 11:07 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 191
well, its not that bad, just annoying. i t vibrates all the time a little bit but you can also hear it making a low chub , chub sound like a miss but not as bad (exhaust here) ive heard it was kinda a common prblem but wasnt sure. mines always started fine. aprox how much would it be to fix the mount problem, or how hard to do it myself? tahnks for all the info
04-11-2001, 12:01 AM
#6
Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 33
"I THINK" <----Notice this
I'm not too sure but I THINK they're hard to get to and are expensive to fix by your self or through a mechanic.
My old 1991 cavalier z24 had a bad shaking problem whenever I turned on the AC. The mechanic said that this was expensive to fix because they're hard to get to. I never knew what this problem was called but I'm assuming that the engine mounts were the cause of this.
I'm not too sure but I THINK they're hard to get to and are expensive to fix by your self or through a mechanic.
My old 1991 cavalier z24 had a bad shaking problem whenever I turned on the AC. The mechanic said that this was expensive to fix because they're hard to get to. I never knew what this problem was called but I'm assuming that the engine mounts were the cause of this.
04-11-2001, 07:12 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 755
If the plugs (NGK), cap rotor, wires, vacuum lines, air filter and gas filter are in good condition, the throttle body, intake manifold, ACC valve (idle up), TPS and MAF electrical connectors and fuel injectors are clean, and the base idle speed and timing are adjusted right these engines are very smooth at idle and the idle speed doesn't wander either.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
04-11-2001, 08:47 PM
#8
Originally posted by cyrk96
"I THINK" <----Notice this
I'm not too sure but I THINK they're hard to get to and are expensive to fix by your self or through a mechanic.
My old 1991 cavalier z24 had a bad shaking problem whenever I turned on the AC. The mechanic said that this was expensive to fix because they're hard to get to. I never knew what this problem was called but I'm assuming that the engine mounts were the cause of this.
"I THINK" <----Notice this
I'm not too sure but I THINK they're hard to get to and are expensive to fix by your self or through a mechanic.
My old 1991 cavalier z24 had a bad shaking problem whenever I turned on the AC. The mechanic said that this was expensive to fix because they're hard to get to. I never knew what this problem was called but I'm assuming that the engine mounts were the cause of this.
The engine mounts on our cars are extremely easy to replace. just remove the two plastic covers on the bottom of the engine and the mounts are right there. put a jack under the engine to support the weight, then all you gotta do is remove 3 bolts on each one to remove it from the car. extremely easy, given you're strong enought o break the bolts loose.
04-11-2001, 09:08 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 627
Vibration
On my car, the "bumps" seem worse with hi-octane gas for some reason. I wish I knew what the problem was. It's been bugging me for 4 years/58,000 miles now.
Car runs great otherwise, however :-)
If anyone finds out what this problem is, do post it please.
Car runs great otherwise, however :-)
If anyone finds out what this problem is, do post it please.
04-12-2001, 10:12 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Vibration
Originally posted by brubenstein
I did. Scroll up 3 replies.
I did. Scroll up 3 replies.
04-13-2001, 05:03 AM
#12
Originally posted by brubenstein
If the plugs (NGK), cap rotor, wires, vacuum lines, air filter and gas filter are in good condition, the throttle body, intake manifold, ACC valve (idle up), TPS and MAF electrical connectors and fuel injectors are clean, and the base idle speed and timing are adjusted right these engines are very smooth at idle and the idle speed doesn't wander either.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
If the plugs (NGK), cap rotor, wires, vacuum lines, air filter and gas filter are in good condition, the throttle body, intake manifold, ACC valve (idle up), TPS and MAF electrical connectors and fuel injectors are clean, and the base idle speed and timing are adjusted right these engines are very smooth at idle and the idle speed doesn't wander either.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
04-13-2001, 05:24 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 529
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
The engine mounts on our cars are extremely easy to replace. just remove the two plastic covers on the bottom of the engine and the mounts are right there. put a jack under the engine to support the weight, then all you gotta do is remove 3 bolts on each one to remove it from the car. extremely easy, given you're strong enought o break the bolts loose.
The engine mounts on our cars are extremely easy to replace. just remove the two plastic covers on the bottom of the engine and the mounts are right there. put a jack under the engine to support the weight, then all you gotta do is remove 3 bolts on each one to remove it from the car. extremely easy, given you're strong enought o break the bolts loose.
Matt,
This might sound crazy but it did fix my shaking. I check all my fluids twice a week. Today I realized, that the ATF fluid is best checked when the car has been driven at least 10 miles on a variety of speeds (moreso on the highway).
Today I checked the ATF and found it was in the "Cold" area and just below the first "Hot" mark of the dipstick. The dipstick also had small air bubbles.
I added just enough to bring it up to exact level. Ran the car for another five miles and checked the level. It was perfect with no air bubbles.
All this led to smoother idling and shifting. I, too, had the same idling problem when stopped at a traffic light. But now it is smoother than before with no noticable vibration.
Just a thought that people should try.
11-19-2007, 03:58 PM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
So I have the same shaking problem, but with mine it only occurs after the car has been driven for a while, or sometimes hours later. I have had a tune-up done, switched plugs, changed the air-filter and had the fuel injectors cleaned. I am now thinking along the lines of engine/tranny mounts, but if those were the problem, wouldn't the shaking occur all times the car is stopped in gear?
11-19-2007, 04:42 PM
#15
If the plugs (NGK), cap rotor, wires, vacuum lines, air filter and gas filter are in good condition, the throttle body, intake manifold, ACC valve (idle up), TPS and MAF electrical connectors and fuel injectors are clean, and the base idle speed and timing are adjusted right these engines are very smooth at idle and the idle speed doesn't wander either.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
Most 3rd gens are getting old, have high milage and not very well maintained (just changing oil isn't enough). Most people here seem to spend more money on fancy light bulbs (let alone stereos) than basic maintenance. It's little wonder that they run like tired old cars.
I agree with brubenstein, as my engine is a 1990 VG and has 250K+ miles on it and it idled and ran smooth as silk. That is until the end of my crankshaft broke off last week.
Now I am looking for a good donor car.
11-19-2007, 04:57 PM
#16
So I have the same shaking problem, but with mine it only occurs after the car has been driven for a while, or sometimes hours later. I have had a tune-up done, switched plugs, changed the air-filter and had the fuel injectors cleaned. I am now thinking along the lines of engine/tranny mounts, but if those were the problem, wouldn't the shaking occur all times the car is stopped in gear?
but if the cars idle is high enough the engine will run smoother.
11-23-2007, 01:34 PM
#18
EGR if it is stuck open can cause issues by diluting the mixture in wrong proportions. normally they fail in the closed position which typically has little to no effect on how a car runs.
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