Maxzilla91

My max stalls when warm, when i started again it fires right up and goes for a bit then stalls again.

i had a friend look at it and he says i might have a clogged cat. what are the symptoms of a dead cat?

if i do have a dead cat, can u guys recommend a good hi-flow cat and maybe a cat-back system at a reasonable price?

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

well, hold on. we don't even know if it is that yet. iirc, symptoms of clogged kat are bad smell and excessive, way too much, black **** around the exhaust outlet area on the bumper and ****. have you change your O2, ever?

Maxzilla91

haven't changed O2, yes, lots of black **** around muffler tip... my max is black, so i donno if it's on the bumper as well..

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

black soot around the tip is normal in small amounts

Maxzilla91

damn, that makes my life more difficult.. so what is the problem??

i've already replaced $500 worth of ignition stuff, but it's still stalling.. i can't afford to replace each and every part on my car to find out what's wrong with it.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Well I don't know how well you expect us to diagnosis your problem when you spend $500 already but never mention what parts you replaced. If you want good answers, at least give a good description.

domlcardio

a black tip just means you are running rich. a clogged cat would also give you that but a very bad rotten egg smell comes along with it. yeah, give us a description of what you did with those 500 bucks, hehe.

ChrisCheezer

does the car drive at all? if so does it feel good? or crappy?

- to test the O2 sensor un plug it and drive (if u can) .. It's harness sits on the rear engine mount, U can see it behind the enigne on the bottom. If the car runs a little bit better with the sensor unpluged then replace the sensor. im unsure if thoes sensors get lazy and give bad readings, or if they just stop working overall. its worth a try.

what did u replace worth 500 bucks!?!?!? the entire engine?

Maxzilla91

my mechanic said he replaced the "ignition module" on the first time i made him fix it. the second time i made him fix it he replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter. the thrid time i made him fix it he replaced the distributor rotor and cap and spark plug wires.

still dies the same after all that, then i got tired of making him fix it again...

Maxzilla91

Yea the car drives, it feels like normal when it doesn't cut off and stutter and then stall. but i just need to wait about 5 secs then it fires right back up and drives for a little bit before it happens again.

Sometimes when it's just sitting there by itself idling it stalls too... usually when it warms up. it never seems to have stalled when the engine was cold.

Thx u guys for all the help..

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Clogged fuel filter?

Maxzilla91

had it replaced...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

*ugh*! When you are ready to give us a FULL description of what was done and what was replaced, plus the results each time, I'm done guessing.

Maxzilla91

sorry... i did a typo.. it wasn't the fuel pump that got replaced, it was the fuel filter.. and that's it.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I'm thinking electrical like a ground issue or solder joint going.
But that's just a guess

Maxzilla91

Lets hope it's a grounding issue.. i've been thinking of getting a ground wire kit, maybe that helps?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

what have you got too lose? $60?
it can't hurt and matt could use the work

Maxzilla91

hmm.. i've noticed that if i took off the distributor for a few minutes and then put it back on i could get at least one decent trip without stalling and stuttering.

so that's why everytime i checked/took off the distributor cap and its connections then put it back on it drives ok for a day or so before it starts dying again.. anyone have any idea why this is happening?

jrodmaxima13

my max would run fine until i hit 3000 rpms or so then it wouldn't go any higher even if i floored it then i replaced the fuel filter and it was all good